Really basic electric kettle batch sparge

[king5899]

I've been reading a ton of articles on here about electric brewing and have now gotten more confused than ever. Today I batch sparge 5 gallon batches and have had some great luck, however after last winter of brewing outside in NY I've decided to move it inside but don't want to kill the family with co.

I am looking to order a new brew kettle and was thinking of having a port for an element. Everytime I read an article there are thousands of dollars on control panels and pumps. I'm just looking to essentially replace my propane heat with electric and keep the rest the same.

Any advice on the minimal requirements? (I can do 240v with an electrician that works for beer)

Thanks, MJK

 

[doug293cz]

I hear you. I used to live between Endicott and Owego, and can't imagine brewing in the winter out there. Although I hear this year is nothing like last year.

You could get by with a simple single element system with a manual heater control if you mash in a cooler. You could heat your strike water in the kettle with the heating element, and then heat some sparge water in the same kettle and drain it to another cooler so that the kettle with the element is available for the initial run off. But then, you don't actually have to use hot water for a batch sparge if you get good conversion efficiency in the mash.

Tell us a little more about how you brew, and we can give you some more detailed advice.

My original brewing mentor (kept trying to get me into brewing before I moved away) is in upstate.

Brew on

 

[king5899]

This winter so far is great, 60 degrees for Christmas can't be beat. I'm a southern boy at heart so winters killing me up here.

I'm pretty simple, I mash in a 10 Gallon cooler and heat up the sparge water in my brew kettle. I then dump the sparge water in another cooler until I'm ready to sparge. I drain right into my kettle and start heating it up. I attached my setup from a few weeks ago.

 

[brettwasbtd]

I do five gallon batches with the induction unit (avantco 3500watt) basically same process as outside.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Spa Panel to provide GFI (1)
Simple Controller (2)
Brew Hardware Hot Rod (3)

1. http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-GFI-Spa-Panel-UG412RMW260P/100567181

2. http://stilldragon.com/index.php/accessories/diy-controller-kit.html

3. http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotrod.htm

The hot rod can be placed in the HLT, MLT, or brew kettle as needed. This will be all manual taking temps and turning the heat down / off as needed, similar to basic propane brewing.

Simplest approach would be BIAB, one kettle and electric heat source.

The above is a good simple option to power a larger 4500 - 5500 element for 5-10 gallon batches.

The most basic and cheapest bare bones option would be a $10, 2000w 120v element on GFI in an 8 gallon insulated kettle for 5 gallon batches. It will be slow heat, and you may have to insulate the kettle, or keep the lid partially on to reach boil, but since the wattage is painfully low, you won't need a controller to turn it down , and you likely already have a 120v 20a GFI circuit.

 

[30Bones]

I've been reading a ton of articles on here about electric brewing and have now gotten more confused than ever. Today I batch sparge 5 gallon batches and have had some great luck, however after last winter of brewing outside in NY I've decided to move it inside but don't want to kill the family with co.

I am looking to order a new brew kettle and was thinking of having a port for an element. Everytime I read an article there are thousands of dollars on control panels and pumps. I'm just looking to essentially replace my propane heat with electric and keep the rest the same.

Any advice on the minimal requirements? (I can do 240v with an electrician that works for beer)

Thanks, MJK

This is essentially what I am in the process of doing. Replacing my 10 gallon kettle with a keggle (bottom drain) and adding electricity to it....indoors

I hear you. I used to live between Endicott and Owego, and can't imagine brewing in the winter out there. Although I hear this year is nothing like last year.

You could get by with a simple single element system with a manual heater control if you mash in a cooler. You could heat your strike water in the kettle with the heating element, and then heat some sparge water in the same kettle and drain it to another cooler so that the kettle with the element is available for the initial run off. But then, you don't actually have to use hot water for a batch sparge if you get good conversion efficiency in the mash.

Tell us a little more about how you brew, and we can give you some more detailed advice.

My original brewing mentor (kept trying to get me into brewing before I moved away) is in upstate.

Brew on

This is essentially what I am in the process of doing. Replacing my 10 gallon kettle with a keggle (bottom drain) and adding electricity to it.

Keeping my 70Qt MT. My 10 gallon kettle was my HLT/BK, now the keggle will be replacing it. I drain my first runnings into a bucket, transfer sparge water from HLT (batch sparge also) and once the HLT is empty, in goes my bucket of wort into the now BK. I think eventually I will avoid hassle and just go BIAB, but want a 20 gallon kettle for that.

 

[doug293cz]

This winter so far is great, 60 degrees for Christmas can't be beat. I'm a southern boy at heart so winters killing me up here.

I'm pretty simple, I mash in a 10 Gallon cooler and heat up the sparge water in my brew kettle. I then dump the sparge water in another cooler until I'm ready to sparge. I drain right into my kettle and start heating it up. I attached my setup from a few weeks ago.

So, your process is exactly what I envisioned. @wilserbrewer beat me to the description of a minimal control system. All I would add to what wilser said is that you could go with the option to mount an element in the kettle. Cost should be about the same as the heat stick, but you have to drill a hole in the kettle to mount it. You do lose the flexibility to move the heater between vessels if you do this as well. Both options work equally well, so it is a matter of personal preference.

If you're really longing for more automated control than provided by the simple controller system (all it would provide with your system configuration is eliminating the need to baby sit the heat up of the strike and sparge water), describe what you want, and the folks in this thread can help you configure whatever you desire.

I neglected to mention in my first response that my upstate brewing mentor is also named King.

Brew on

 

[king5899]

I may be a King but not yet the king of brewing, still working on that one.

I'm trying to keep it simple and all of the automation seems to not only complicate things, but also drives the prices sky high. I like the simple manual controller with an element mounted in the kettle. I was looking at getting a Spike kettle and for $30 plus the fitting they will custom add a triclover that I can fit an element in and remove when warmer weather permits outdoor brewing. I'll look into the setup mentioned above.

Thank you guys for the feedback, I'll let you know how things progress..

 

[wilserbrewer]

I can fit an element in and remove when warmer weather permits outdoor brewing.

I have a hunch once you start brewing electric, you won't look back. Rather than removing the element, and getting some propane, you could just get an extension cord and brew electric outdoors FTW...cheers!