Firstly, real ale doesn't normally involve wooden barrels. Even in the olden days, the wooden barrels would normally have been lined, and the beer mostly wouldn't have come into contact with the wood. Almost all real ale is now packaged in stainless or plastic casks.
Real ale is just beer that is naturally conditioned in the cask, and is served without any additional CO2, and not served too cold. Air is admitted into the cask to replace the beer as it is drawn off, oxidising the beer over a couple of days. Frankly, you should either ignore that second part, and use a cask breather (very low pressure CO2 regulator, an LPG regulator is a cheap option), or use a collapsible cubitainer/polypin for serving so that you don't let oxygen destroy your beer within four days or so of tapping the cask.
Basically just rack your beer to the cask/cubitainer, prime with a small amount of sugar for 1.2-1.5 vols CO2 and condition at 55-60F for a week before serving at around 55F. If you want, allow about a pint of air into the container after serving the first few pints to get some light oxidation character, then after that keep the container sealed or use the cask breather. Or if you can get through the cask in three days or less, just let air in to make up the volume.
Cheapest option for a cask/container is a cubitainer, available in various sizes from US plastics etc. I use a 20l Speidel fermentor as cask with a second spigot on top to attach the cask breather to. You can also serve from a corny keg turned upside down/on its side and with the gas and liquid diptubes swapped. Or you can go the full hogshead ( as it were

) and buy a pin or firkin cask.
I'm lucky in that my basement seems to maintain about 55F. Perfect cellaring temperature. I've just racked a mild (from Jamil's BCS recipe, using 1469 West Yorkshire Ale yeast) to the cask today.