Good question. I actually don't know. I tried it once and had the feeling that the yeast compacted a bit better. But I do not have a real clue.Do gelatin can clear beer on room temperature?
Good question. I actually don't know. I tried it once and had the feeling that the yeast compacted a bit better. But I do not have a real clue.Do gelatin can clear beer on room temperature?
Yes, that's true. I was never interested in removing chill haze, I only wanted it to drop out the yeast.It seems to have a partial effect on yeast, but the protein, which is most interesting to me, does not work because no clusters of protein without cooling are produced.
I am pretty sure that this would work, but it wouldn't be a raw ale as the extract was boiled when manufactured.Have we discussed extract? Obviously it needs no boil it was boiled at manufacturing. Here is what i am thinking......
Start water 5.6g add steeping grains, pull steeping grains at 165, squeeze, add dme, mix and dump in fermenter at 170. Throw hops in to calculator, shut lid and pitch yeast later. Seems so simple.
The more i thik of it, just sounds so great. Replace base grain with dme. Use specialty mini mash and flavor later with rasberrys, oak, bourbon, cherries, grahm crackers whatever.
Yep, thats why i have never used it. I saw 50 lbs for 130 the other day though. Would be so easy, maybe time for another raw ale.
Have you tried doing a protein rest before mashing?I make four batch of No Boil Ale. Two had addition of up to 500g of table sugar and these two were better than the two without the addition of sugar. I think it's because sugar is drying beer so the protein left out of the beer without boiling is less pronounced.
What yours thinking? Is no boil beer is better with simple sugar additions?
It certainly does chop proteins into pieces. You just have to hit the right temperature for the right amount of time before hitting the final mashing temperature.No. Do you think this would help to lower the amount of proteins in wort? I think it might help.
I doubt that it has anything to do with the raw technic, I have just ****ing poor sanitation standards.
I never sanitise, only soap and hot water and even forgot to wear gloves when squeezing the wort out of the bag. With sanitised equipment and gloves, this probably wouldn't have happened.
... Will start to sanitise now.
I bottled my last batch of Ordinary Bitter (No Boil/No Chill).
OG=1.044 / FG=1.008 (ABV=4.8% with priming sugar).
Obviously you're the head brewer and brew to your taste, but from a British perspective that's way too strong for an Ordinary Bitter - in fact it's stronger than 98% of the cask beers in British pubs. Call it "beer" but not Ordinary Bitter, as that implies something <4%.
I'd use a bit less the sugar, and use a British yeast rather than US-05, at <4% you don't want to dry it out too much.
Quick update on the no boil mixed fermentation I started about 3 months ago.
A gravity reading today and taste test show that is down to 1.006 and somewhere between tart and sour, with a great blend of tartness and funk. The best part about it is that there is still more body to it than any other beer I've had at that gravity. Can't say for sure whether its the microbe mix or the no boil providing more unfermentables, but its a very pleasant mouthfeel and sweetness I did not expect after taking that gravity reading. Now if it just drops 2 more points I think it will be perfect. I think I've found my new process for brewing quick sours.
That sounds actually quite nice. I also think that the body is so nice because of the proteins still in solution. I am looking forward to seeing how this beer ages!I was figuring that about the proteins, which is why I did this in the first place. I wanted there to be a lot for the bacteria and brett to eat after the wy3711 was finished to bump down my pH as fast as possible. It seems to have worked for sure. When I purposefully want a sour beer, I'm going to keep on with this method based on these results.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/warm-fermented-lager-thread.592169/page-11#post-8293199I brew new batch of red beer, and according to this http://brulosophy.com/2016/04/18/fe...ager-yeast-saflager-3470-exbeeriment-results/ try W-34/70 (dry lager yeast) on 27'C (current temperature on my apartment).
Do any try this yeast on this high fermentation temperature?
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/warm-fermented-lager-thread.592169/page-11#post-8293199
Long story short, yes, might throw some clove but in general it works.
My personal warm fermented lager champ is mangrove Jack California lager. Flocks waaaaaaaay better than 3470 and is really really clean at room temperature.
I don't want to go too much more off topic, but it is this comment and the research following that has me overwhelmingly interested in Bitters. A flavorful low alcohol beer sounds wonderful. I don't know why Bud Light became so popular. Seems like a lightly hopped quality Cask ale would fit the bill and would be lower in calories, wouldn't it. I don't know why I don't think I've drink many examples of this beer. Seems like a perfect thing to keep around. Anyways thanks for pointing this out.Obviously you're the head brewer and brew to your taste, but from a British perspective that's way too strong for an Ordinary Bitter - in fact it's stronger than 98% of the cask beers in British pubs. Call it "beer" but not Ordinary Bitter, as that implies something <4%.
I'd use a bit less the sugar, and use a British yeast rather than US-05, at <4% you don't want to dry it out too much.