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Whoever decided to get rid of the screw tops that held down the lid, that used to be on the big mouth bubblers should be thrown in the gallows. What a dumb ******* idea that was.

Speidel ftw
 
Saw this on reddit. Made me lol

LhDCmXr.jpg
 
Has anyone tried killing Brett/Bacteria with heat or chemicals?

I was thinking about blending a mature sour with a high gravity Sacc only beer and bottling, but I would need to kill the brett and bacteria in the sour to avoid bottle bombs. The bottled beer is not intended to be aged for long periods of time.

Heat looks like a potentially viable solution but I'm not sure that it would kill Pedio and Lacto which I assume are present in the sour.

I found this on Probrewer
http://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?12782-time-temp-Killing-beer-bugs
"While not recognised as true pasteurisation, 145 F for 30 minutes, followed by rapid cooling, is widely regarded as adequate among "low risk" foods, of which beer is one. Indeed, 145 F (63 C) for 10 mins is probably good enough for beer. You only need a more aggressive regimen if you have a high bacterial/fungal load to begin with (infection, dirty brewery), or if you are trying to achieve shelf stable beer for a year or more."

I need to look into it a bit more but using Camden Tablets and Potassium Sorbate is another option. That being said, I would prefer to use heat rather than chemicals if possible. Now that I think about it, Maybe heat + Potassium Sorbate would do the trick?

145 for 30 minutes will kill pretty much everything. That's pasteurization temps.
 
How would you pasturize it without oxidizing it at the Homebrew level.
It would be difficult at a homebrew level. Maybe rack into a stainless vessel and do a hot water bath, but a large vessel would be necessary for the "bathtub" along with a stainless fermenter or a keg
 
You should be able to use a large mason jar (the biggest I’ve seen is 1 gallon) since you’ll be able to seal if before putting it into a hot water bath. You could purge it with CO2 before racking to protect against oxidation. And one of those should fit in your brew kettle (assuming you brew 5+ gallon batches).
 
You should be able to use a large mason jar (the biggest I’ve seen is 1 gallon) since you’ll be able to seal if before putting it into a hot water bath. You could purge it with CO2 before racking to protect against oxidation. And one of those should fit in your brew kettle (assuming you brew 5+ gallon batches).
An shake it up until it bubble up an get harder
Then sit the tub in some ready made cold water
Twist the bitch like a knot while it's still hot
And watch that **** while it rise to the ****** top
Ghet ghet ghetto dope
 
Anyone know where to get bulk sanitizer? Buying 16 oz jugs of starsan at LHBS is too expensive.

Maybe like gallon sized jugs if possible? Or pails?
 
Anyone know where to get bulk sanitizer? Buying 16 oz jugs of starsan at LHBS is too expensive.

Maybe like gallon sized jugs if possible? Or pails?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064O7YFA/?tag=talkbecom09-20

Best price I could find. It looks like 1-gal jugs are available, but the prices I see are more than 4x the price of the quart-sized bottle. Probably best to just buy a few to have on hand.
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064O7YFA/?tag=talkbecom09-20

Best price I could find. It looks like 1-gal jugs are available, but the prices I see are more than 4x the price of the quart-sized bottle. Probably best to just buy a few to have on hand.

Meh. There has got to be a chemical supply store online that is selling them at like 50 bucks a gallon somewhere. Ideally, id like to find one at like 60 bucks. Idk
 
I actually didn't know that. **** Ziggy we've wasted a lot of starsan hahaha

Just make a mixture of 2.5 or 5 gallons and store it in an empty keg or bucket. Distilled water will prevent it from going cloudy and I think keep the pH low, but don't quote me on that. I usually make a fresh batch every couple months, but I know some people make it last a lot longer.
 
Go hardcore and buy those gallon jugs of peracetic acid. Swear it won't make your house smell bad or burn your face off.
 
i'm getting pretty ****** drunk yall making me wonder if there's anything to sulfiting (and sorbate?) sour beer after it's done. could help with O2 pick up and stablize it still no? might be interesting to stabilize it that way, then add fruit to give it a natural sweetness for nonsour beer geeks a la that lindemans garbage. prob won't affect flavor too much if you do it right either
 
Can't believe that Wyeast shows London Ale 3 as a High Flocculation strain...

tenor.gif
Weirdly enough, if you cold condition to flock out and don't go to all the haze measures (don't use adjuncts, excessive wheat , don't whirlpool/dry hop) you can get a beer to drop seriously bright with a compact layer at the bottom with London Ale 3. It behaves very differently in hazy beers which is kind of peculiar.
 

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