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Ranco is at 30 beer is at 42 and still foaming.

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what is the inside diameter of the hoses? something i havent seen answered yet. you have released pressure several times but you still have plenty of pressure to push beer. remove the gas line completely and pull a pint. keep pulling until you get a good pour. if you never do then as was suggested a picnic tap and 5 psi to start. then work your way up.
 
How are you determining the beer temperature? You need to make sure you are using a calibrated thermometer. Draw off a glass, chug it down and draw a second immediately. Take the temperature of this second glass.
 
what is the inside diameter of the hoses? something i havent seen answered yet. you have released pressure several times but you still have plenty of pressure to push beer. remove the gas line completely and pull a pint. keep pulling until you get a good pour. if you never do then as was suggested a picnic tap and 5 psi to start. then work your way up.

It has been answered a few times, it's bevlex 3/16. I have released the pressure and have NO pressure to pour anything at all. I have to put Co2 to it to push a glass of beer. I have started from 2psi and on, it's all foam

How are you determining the beer temperature? You need to make sure you are using a calibrated thermometer. Draw off a glass, chug it down and draw a second immediately. Take the temperature of this second glass.

Once again, I'm using a glass brewing thermometer for reading the temp of the beer poured. The Ranco for air temp inside of the freezer.
I have been using the second glass poured for temp. But thanks

I was told I need no more then 5-6psi to pour from two different Local HBS. Also I was told that I should never need more them 5' of 3/16 ID Line from the one HBS. He said my beer must be over carbed or the temp is too high. But neither seem to be the problem.
 
They are over carbed for sure. I just took them out and rocked them, then purged some of the Co2 off and did it again and the beer is much closer to beer instead of foam. I think the mystery might be solved. I'll keep you all posted.

Finaly I know what the problem is, Now how short should I cut my lines back to?
DSCN2169.jpg
 
You can cut them back if you want. Or just swap them. I like longer lines because it gives me more options as to serving pressures.

If I had to guess at what the problem is, I would say that your reg is off. I have seen gauges act like this before. They are correct at 1-15 psi, but anything over 20 psi gets out of whack in a hurry.

Ant
 
$34 at Harborfreight... How could it possibly be inaccurate? Haha
On second thought, Maybe I should return it. It might have been the problem with carbing the beer in the first place. Hmmm

On the plus side the beer taste great now that I can pour some in a glass without it all being foam. By the time the foam settled the beer was almost flat. That was what was confusing me into thinking the beer wasn't over carbonated. But I was losing the carb in the head settling.

So Maybe I really should return the regulator.
 
If you seriously have a harbor freight regulator, then you have found the problem. They are notoriously inaccurate. I prefer Micromatic, but there are lots of good ones (taprite, cornelius, etc.) I highly recommend getting a professional-grade regulator. They can be had on eBay for less than that HF reg.
 
If you seriously have a harbor freight regulator, then you have found the problem. They are notoriously inaccurate. I prefer Micromatic, but there are lots of good ones (taprite, cornelius, etc.) I highly recommend getting a professional-grade regulator. They can be had on eBay for less than that HF reg.

Sadly it's ture. And in all seriousness, I agree. I'm going to order a proper regulator and return the HF reg. I thought it would be fine, but I'm almost sure it is the reason the beer was over carbed. I was going to order a taprite but I was in a rush and couldn't wait, so I used one I could just go and buy from the local store. I won't make that mistake twice.
Aside from my problems, how do you know
They are notoriously inaccurate.
?
 
I can't believe I stayed up this late but I fixed the problem for sure. I can pour a pint of either beer and have real beer with just about an inch of head. Not quite perfect but at this point it's great. The weak point was definitely the Harborfreight regulator. I'm ordering a taprite and when it arrives I'll return the HF regulator. I can't believe after all of this the problem had nothing to do with anything but a POS regulator. How can anyone sell a product that's only job is to regulate that can't regulate.

Work = No fun tomorrow
 
KegConnection carries the taprite regulators. Wow you been troubleshooting all day, you must be a little wasted due to all the tastings. Glad to hear its better. I would still keep the lines at 10' atleast. It'll give you some room to play with if you want to carb a bit higher
 
Once again, I'm using a glass brewing thermometer for reading the temp of the beer poured. The Ranco for air temp inside of the freezer.
I have been using the second glass poured for temp. But thanks

I was told I need no more then 5-6psi to pour from two different Local HBS. Also I was told that I should never need more them 5' of 3/16 ID Line from the one HBS. He said my beer must be over carbed or the temp is too high. But neither seem to be the problem.

I don't think that type of thermometer is going to be that accurate in the area of beer serving temperature. I think this is why you are sseeing the temperatures you are vs. the setting of your temperature controller. The reason the beer temperature is important is it directly influences how the beer absorbs co2.

Also 5-6 psi is only going to be enough to push the beer, not maintain carbonation. In contrast, I serve my ales about 42 and at 15 psi with no foaming problems. IMHO, we work on all the other aspects of brewing to make our beer the best we can, we should also make sure it is served properly including proper cabonation. Additionally low pressure will cause the co2 to come out of solution in the line when the kegerator is not being used. This co2 coming out of solution will cause foam. However I agree with the 5 feet of 3/16, but more isn't goint to harm anything.

I used to not be a fan of force carbing as it can lead to the over carbing issues you experienced. What I have been doing lately that has worked well is:
  • Chill the beer for a couple of days
  • Apply 30 psi to the keg
  • Shake the keg while counting to 100
  • Return the keg to cold storage
  • Tap at serving pressure a day or two before serving

Nice pic BTW.
 
Are you SURE your regulator is CORRECT? New doesnt mean not faulty.

ARE YOU opening the tap ALL the way? When it pours does there apprear to be any obstruction to the smooth flow of the beer?

Dunno, there isnt a lot that goes into a good pour. Just correct pressure, correct ammount of line and temp... that is all really.
 
Glad to hear you found the problem- it definitely did sound overcarbed that's why I kept going back to that.

I'd keep the longer lines (the LHBS guy who told you you never need longer than 5' is a doofus) and see how you do.
 
Now that the problem is solved, don't set your regulator at some low (5to6psi) psi like your lbhs suggested. That will cause your co2 to break out in the lines and you will be pouring foam again. You can cut your lines, but I would wait until your comfortable with carbing and fine tuning your keezer and it's temps. My lines are 5 and 6 feet. You start by cutting 1 ft at a time until you are happy with the speed of the pour. I imagine it's pouring slowly with a long line. I keep my kegs set at 12psi most of the time.:mug:
 
1 other thing. Fold a paper towel a few times and tape the Ranco sensor to the side of a keg down low with the towel covering the sensor. This will cause it to read the temp of what is in the keg and your freezer will cycle less often.

Linc
 

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