Questions for my kegerator build

[Jtk78]

I am in the planning stage of converting an upright freezer to a kegerator. I am going to use this thread for some questions I have prior to the start. Once the build is underway, I will start a new thread to show the progress. Thanks in advance to anyone that helps me along the way.

The Plan
I will eventually have it set up for 8 taps, but phase one will start at 4 taps. I will keep my CO2 and beer gas cylinder on the outside of the freezer to save real estate inside.

I already have a beer gas cylinder and cylinder regulator. I plan on putting a 4 manifold so I can have up to 4 nitro taps. I'm going to use Intertap faucets so they will be consistent, but quickly have the ability to become nitro taps and back again (I know these are a little longer, but much smaller than a traditional stout faucet).

On the CO2 side, I will have a cylinder regulator outside, and 4 secondary regulators on the inside of the freezer. The first two regulators will each have a two way manifold and be used to carb kegs. One could be used to carb nitro kegs, and the other to force carb CO2 kegs if I want. I plan to use regulator three and four at serving pressure. The reason I want two is so I can have a "high" and "regular" serving pressure. This will allow Hefes, some Belgians, and wheat beers to be set at say 16-17 psi (~3.0 vol C02) and the others to be set to 10-11 psi (~2.4 vol CO2). I will have a four way manifold for the high side, and a 6 way for the low side. All manifolds will have shut offs with check valves and flare fittings to easily move things around.

I'm sure there's more I've thought about, but for now, on to the...

Questions
- Do you see the need for a secondary regulator on the beer gas side? Part of me thinks this just adds more leak points, and added expense. I don't plan on having multiple pressures off of this cylinder like I do off the CO2 side.

- "High" side balancing - If I use flare fittings to the disconnects, can I use a flare union to add about 6' of beer line (assuming the 1' per psi rule)? I can also just have longer lines made up and hanging in the freezer for these cases. Last option would be to try the flow control faucets with say 13' lines and hope I could get good pours out of either pressure. Which do you think is the best option?

I know I will have other questions, but this is enough to get things flowing.

 

[PADave]

I know some people don't like them, but I'm a fan of the flow control faucets. Getting perfect pours with only 6' of line. Much easier to move the lever to adjust than to mess with line length.

 

[Jtk78]

Thanks PADave. I haven't researched them much. So with only 6' of line am I correct in assuming you have to restrict them a bit more than if you had 10' of line?

 

[PADave]

I could only assume so. I've only over used 6', it works for me, so I don't know. With a longer line, the line is providing all of the restriction. With flow control, the faucet is providing some of the restriction, as well as the line.

 

[Jtk78]

I think I've decided to go with the flow control faucets. I had wanted the self closing feature, but will forego that.

Would still like to know your opinions on the secondary regulator on the beer gas side.

Also, this will be going in my garage. It is kinda insulated and sheet rocked, but still gets quite cold in the dead of winter. Do you think I'll need a small heater in the freezer for winter months?

 

[brew703]

Go to Mike's site to determine your beer line length, http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/.
Even with flow control faucets, not sure if 6' will be enough. If you go with the Bev Seal Ultra lines, you can either go with 1.5x what the calculator shows or change the line diameter to .200. There is a little difference between the two. I went with 15' and it works for me. The pour is a little slow but it's manageable. I'll have to time it to see what I get for a pint.

I don't have an answer for the secondary regulator. I don't use one. I went with a dual regulator but to be honest most of my beers will be carbed between 10-12 PSI. In the near future, I will need to eventually get a smaller co2 tank for transfers as it's too difficult to remove one of the lines from my 10lb tank.

 

[Jtk78]

Go to Mike's site to determine your beer line length, http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/.
Even with flow control faucets, not sure if 6' will be enough. If you go with the Bev Seal Ultra lines, you can either go with 1.5x what the calculator shows or change the line diameter to .200. There is a little difference between the two. I went with 15' and it works for me. The pour is a little slow but it's manageable. I'll have to time it to see what I get for a pint.

I don't have an answer for the secondary regulator. I don't use one. I went with a dual regulator but to be honest most of my beers will be carbed between 10-12 PSI. In the near future, I will need to eventually get a smaller co2 tank for transfers as it's too difficult to remove one of the lines from my 10lb tank.

Thanks brew703. I did look at and bookmark that calculator. I was planning on running the standard line, and starting at about 10'. The calc spit out 9', so I'm in the right ball park. Won't know until I get it set up. I'm getting four kegs next week, and on the hunt for a freezer. This is going to have to be done in phases, but I don't want to waste more than a few bucks along the way and have to re-invent the wheel.

Still curios on the need for a heater in there too.

 

[brew703]

Thanks brew703. I did look at and bookmark that calculator. I was planning on running the standard line, and starting at about 10'. The calc spit out 9', so I'm in the right ball park. Won't know until I get it set up. I'm getting four kegs next week, and on the hunt for a freezer. This is going to have to be done in phases, but I don't want to waste more than a few bucks along the way and have to re-invent the wheel.

Still curios on the need for a heater in there too.

A lot of people use heaters in their ferm chambers and keezers. Not sure where you are, TN? But if your temps get down in the teens and 20's for extended periods of time then you might need a heater. My keezer is in my house so I don't need a heater.

Do you know how you are going to attach the collar and run your gas lines into your keezer? I followed this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/easy-peasy-no-glue-keezer-build-with-lots-of-pics.632550/. It worked out nicely. I also went with bulkheads for the gas lines from CHI CO. I was going to just drill a hold through the collar and run my lines that way but the bulkheads look cleaner.

 

[Jtk78]

A lot of people use heaters in their ferm chambers and keezers. Not sure where you are, TN? But if your temps get down in the teens and 20's for extended periods of time then you might need a heater. My keezer is in my house so I don't need a heater.

Do you know how you are going to attach the collar and run your gas lines into your keezer? I followed this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/easy-peasy-no-glue-keezer-build-with-lots-of-pics.632550/. It worked out nicely. I also went with bulkheads for the gas lines from CHI CO. I was going to just drill a hold through the collar and run my lines that way but the bulkheads look cleaner.

I'm in Illinois outside Chicago (TN is in our plan in the next 5-10 years though). I'll plan on having a heater and a two stage controller.

I'll be doing an upright freezer, so no collar needed. I've given the bulkhead minor thought. I can get liquid tight bulkheads for 1/4" pipe from work, but the wall thickness of the area I drill may be a problem for what I can get. I will look at CHI Co for those as well. Thanks for the tip. I just saw a picture where some put a keg post like adapter with a disconnect going from the cylinder regulator to the freezer. Looked pretty slick and an easy way to remove it if you need to.

 

[brew703]

I'm in Illinois outside Chicago (TN is in our plan in the next 5-10 years though). I'll plan on having a heater and a two stage controller.

I'll be doing an upright freezer, so no collar needed. I've given the bulkhead minor thought. I can get liquid tight bulkheads for 1/4" pipe from work, but the wall thickness of the area I drill may be a problem for what I can get. I will look at CHI Co for those as well. Thanks for the tip. I just saw a picture where some put a keg post like adapter with a disconnect going from the cylinder regulator to the freezer. Looked pretty slick and an easy way to remove it if you need to.

I saw the keg post disconnects on HBT- thought they were a nice setup. I may go that route down the line.
I thought about doing an upright freezer but my concern was drilling through a refrigerant line plus I scored a 7' chest for $100 at Best Buy.