questions about extract with partial mash

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

joshesmusica

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Messages
5,395
Reaction score
3,025
Location
Tulsa
I have 2 questions concerning doing partial mashes.

1) what would typically be the lowest percentage of the grain bill to mash?

2) I've read that in order to help with color on extracts that I should try to add about 2/3 or so of the extract late in the boil, but that I need that 1/3 in the full boil in order for the hops to be effective. Considering that i've got some sugars from the partial mash, and if they were about 25% of the grain bill, could I then just add all the extract late in the boil?
 
I have 2 questions concerning doing partial mashes.

1) what would typically be the lowest percentage of the grain bill to mash?

2) I've read that in order to help with color on extracts that I should try to add about 2/3 or so of the extract late in the boil, but that I need that 1/3 in the full boil in order for the hops to be effective. Considering that i've got some sugars from the partial mash, and if they were about 25% of the grain bill, could I then just add all the extract late in the boil?

1. However much you can. You can mash 6 ounces if you want- but I'd mash as much as I could fit to help save $$$$ on extract.

2. Sure, that's fine. Add the bulk of the extract at flame out, or all of it if you are doing a partial mash.
 
The extract has been boiled in the process to make the extract, so it does not need to be boiled again. The wort, at flame out, will be well over pasteurization temperature to take care of any contaminants that may make it into the wort during the addition.
 
+1. Pasteurization happens in seconds @ 160F, so it's fine to add the extract @ flame out & cover to soak a few minutes. Having said that, I mash up to 6lbs+ of grains, which works out to about 50% of the total fermentables. Then add 3lbs of plain DME or 3.3lbs of plain LME @ flame out for the total fermentables. Lighter color & cleaner flavor that way.
 
Flame out additions of extract, LME in particular, give less Millard reactions that cause darker flavors, extract twang & the like. Also referred to as caramelizing. Or if it burns on the bottom of the BK...:mug:
 
If you partial mash, add the extract at flame out. You don'y have to worry about scorching the malt, it helps with IBU extraction (I know a debatable subject), and helps with cooling.

If adding flame-out hops, wait until after adding any extract. Lower temps help preserve aromas aand flavors.

Flame out additions of extract, LME in particular, give less Millard reactions that cause darker flavors, extract twang & the like. Also referred to as caramelizing. Or if it burns on the bottom of the BK...:mug:

I don't think extract twang has anything to do with adding extract to boiling wort.
 
Adding extract to the boil, LME in particular, are what causes darkening or caramelizing of the extract. The so-called Millard reaction. LME is most prone to this darkening that can give varying amounts of the cooked extract sort of flavor, or "twang".
 
If I have a 19l pot, then theoretically I could have a proper boil going with about 17l in order to ensure no boil over, then does anybody know how many kg of grain I could mash with biab method?
 
I use a 5 gallon (20qt or about 19L) for partial boil, partial mash biab beers. I can boil about 3 1/2 gallons safely, allowing for the foamy hot break right before the boil. I've mashed about 6 1/2lbs in it successfully, allowing room for the water @ 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 quarts per pound of grain.
 
Back
Top