Question, transfer from cooler to kettle...

[Daverust]

So.. today will be my first BIAB brew, I think I have all he goodies ready: grains, kettle, bag and... a cooler. Considering the size of my kettle (4 gal) I opted to mash in a cooler. This is my plan:

- Heat water on the kettle
- Once reaching the temp (160F approx) pour the water into the cooler
- Add grains and stir, once reach the mash temp 152F close the lid and monitor the temp and grains for 60 min.
- Pull the bag, dripping and squeeze a little bit.
- No mash out due the kettle size limitation (It will be ok for my efficiency?)

Here's my question, once finish dripping, how I should transfer the wort from the cooler into the kettle? I have read the splashing is a NO-NO, so this leave me with the auto siphon option? That would be the best option? Pour it gently?

Thanks in advance! :fro:

D.

 

[TexasWine]

First, I think I see a major flaw in your process. On the surface it appears that you haven't accounted for the temp drop you're gonna see when you put the strike water in the cooler. I usually heat my water in the kettle to around 162F or so, and that's the strike temp. The resulting mash temp is around 150 - 152F. But maybe I'm over looking something obvious.

Without a valve on the bottom of the cooler you'll either have to scoop out your wort or pick it up and dump it in your kettle. Neither option sounds very fun.

Remind me, how big of a batch are you trying to squeeze into that 4 gallon pot?

 

[OleGoatBrewing]

You should have a ball valve on the cooler....if so. Gravity.

 

[Magnus314]

Here's my question, once finish dripping, how I should transfer the wort from the cooler into the kettle? I have read the splashing is a NO-NO, so this leave me with the auto siphon option? D.

Don't use an autosiphon or any other tubing not specifically for high temps. It will likely warp.

I use a 1 gallon plastic pitcher as a "poor man's pump" when I need one. Just pour gently and do your best not to splash too much and you'll be fine.

Also, like TexasWine said, make sure you're calculating your strike water temp AFTER it's been in the cooler for a little while so you're not under shooting. You may lose a few degrees of water temp when it hits the cold cooler.

If you measure the temp, pour it in the cooler, and wait 5-10 minutes and measure again, you'll know what the loss is from now on, and can adjust up in the future.

 

[Daverust]

Thanks for your replies, well, I'm glad I posted before doing it... Is a 2.5 gal batch, according to http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/

Total water needed - 4.41 Gallons
Strike temp - 159.11 F

But you are right texas, I haven't count on that detail, and it makes sense. I will keep that in mind. And damn it, I forgot about the temp in the hose, of course it's not going to work, duh! Too hot... well, the gallon pitcher looks like the best option to transfer the wort in this scenario.

About the ball valve, I think it will be a must in the future.

Another question, in this case there's no need to put a colander at the bottom right? Unless I use the drain valve from the cooler (Or use a valve ball which I don't have...)

 

[harry_the_face]

Brewzor calculator app is my #1 tool on brew day and will do strike temp and much more. If you have a smart phone get it!

 

[TexasWine]

Thanks for your replies, well, I'm glad I posted before doing it... Is a 2.5 gal batch, according to http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/

Total water needed - 4.41 Gallons
Strike temp - 159.11 F

But you are right texas, I haven't count on that detail, and it makes sense. I will keep that in mind. And damn it, I forgot about the temp in the hose, of course it's not going to work, duh! Too hot... well, the gallon pitcher looks like the best option to transfer the wort in this scenario.

About the ball valve, I think it will be a must in the future.

Another question, in this case there's no need to put a colander at the bottom right? Unless I use the drain valve from the cooler (Or use a valve ball which I don't have...)

Why don't you just sparge rather than use a cooler? I'm guessing you're probably using about 6 lbs of grain. Sound about right? Mash in with 2.5 gallons, sparge with another 2 gallons or so. Also keep in mind you don't have to add all your sparge volume up front. You can add it as your boil progresses as long as you boil the last addition for a sufficient enough time to remove the DMS.

 

[Komocabo]

He doesn't have a valve on the cooler, so sparging doesn't sound like an option. I was thinking the same thing though

Cheers

 

[TexasWine]

He doesn't have a valve on the cooler, so sparging doesn't sound like an option. I was thinking the same thing though

Cheers

I should have been clearer in my suggestion. He's doing BIAB so I would recommend a simple pour over sparge (pouring water over the bag) when he pulls the bag from the kettle.