Question re: SS mesh baskets

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hezagenius

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Looking to buy a SS mesh basket but I'm trying to figure out if it is safe to apply direct flame when grain is in the basket.

If you have a basket resting on the bottom of the kettle and you have grain in the basket, will you scorch the grain if you apply direct flame to the kettle?
 
You will more than likely scorch the grains if the basket is resting on the bottom of the kettle when you apply direct flame. To prevent scorching, you could add feet to the basket, false bottom in the kettle, or put hooks on the top of the basket to suspend it off the bottom of the kettle.
 
I use a 3500W induction hotplate and have never scorched anything. I employ a partial false bottom to cover the dip tube (I recirculate); this prevents the bag from getting sucked into the tube and blocking liquid flow. But part of the bag does drag on the bottom of the kettle. No issues at all. Then again, when mashing there is no reason to blast the heat. The unit has low temp settings and that's what I use.
 
My basket from Arbo fab has built in legs that are a couple inches long so I'd go that route.
 
Looking to buy a SS mesh basket but I'm trying to figure out if it is safe to apply direct flame when grain is in the basket.

If you have a basket resting on the bottom of the kettle and you have grain in the basket, will you scorch the grain if you apply direct flame to the kettle?

Curious, why do you want a basket?
 
Curious, why do you want a basket?
Hi Tex. I don't know why the OP wants one, but after I got mine from ArborFab, I'd never go back to a bag. For me, it was so much easier to use. Ed
:mug:

Basket-05-SM.jpg
 
Hi Tex. I don't know why the OP wants one, but after I got mine from ArborFab, I'd never go back to a bag. For me, it was so much easier to use. Ed
:mug:

Ed, I concur 110%. I use a custom Arbor Fab basket with a press plate. I can press down and squeeze the grains darn near dry. Easy to use, easy to spray clean with a water hose, and very durable. I'd strongly suggest Arbor Fab, albeit pricy, should be a one time purchase with proper care.
 
Looking to buy a SS mesh basket but I'm trying to figure out if it is safe to apply direct flame when grain is in the basket.

If you have a basket resting on the bottom of the kettle and you have grain in the basket, will you scorch the grain if you apply direct flame to the kettle?

The design of Arbor Fab baskets (if that's the mfg you choose) keeps the grains off the bottom. You can add feet but mine doesn't have feet and the grain is well off the kettle's bottom by at least 1/2". Adding feet makes the grain bed even higher off the bottom of course.
 
The design of Arbor Fab baskets (if that's the mfg you choose) keeps the grains off the bottom. You can add feet but mine doesn't have feet and the grain is well off the kettle's bottom by at least 1/2". Adding feet makes the grain bed even higher off the bottom of course.
I have an electric kettle, so the feet on mine (pic in the post above) keep the basket clear of the element as well as provides a "dead space" for wort to pool so my recirculation pump doesn't run dry. Ed
:mug:
 
I have an electric kettle, so the feet on mine (pic in the post above) keep the basket clear of the element as well as provides a "dead space" for wort to pool so my recirculation pump doesn't run dry. Ed
:mug:

Good clarification, Ed. This point may be important for the OP to consider. And my setup is a standard Blichmann 10G kettle on a propane burner.
 
Thanks. I talked to Utah and they said their baskets have a rim around the bottom that is about 0.5" high so the basket with the grain won't rest directly on the bottom of the kettle. I'm guessing ArborFab does something similar?
 
Thanks. I talked to Utah and they said their baskets have a rim around the bottom that is about 0.5" high so the basket with the grain won't rest directly on the bottom of the kettle. I'm guessing ArborFab does something similar?
Yes, I believe so. Just be careful not to apply full heat to the kettle with the basket resting on the bottom. I have a SS hop basket with a bottom rim/ring that I once let sit on the bottom during a boil, and the wort in that space super-heated and scorched. It ruined the entire batch because once you get that scorched flavor into the beer, it doesn't age out. One of my only few "dumpers." Ed
:mug:
 
Yes, I believe so. Just be careful not to apply full heat to the kettle with the basket resting on the bottom. I have a SS hop basket with a bottom rim/ring that I once let sit on the bottom during a boil, and the wort in that space super-heated and scorched. It ruined the entire batch because once you get that scorched flavor into the beer, it doesn't age out. One of my only few "dumpers." Ed
:mug:

Boil? Or mash?
 
Boil? Or mash?
Mash. I just wanted to warn you in case you want to raise the temp of the mash, or if you're doing a step mash by heating the BIAB kettle. If you do so, turn the heat on low and stir the snot out of it while heating. I used the hop basket as an example, but it can happen with a mash basket if you try to heat your mash up too fast/too high. Hope that explains it. Ed
:mug:
 
Thanks. I talked to Utah and they said their baskets have a rim around the bottom that is about 0.5" high so the basket with the grain won't rest directly on the bottom of the kettle. I'm guessing ArborFab does something similar?

Yes, Arborfab builds the baskets for Utah Bio Diesel.
 
I use a 3500W induction hotplate and have never scorched anything. I employ a partial false bottom to cover the dip tube (I recirculate); this prevents the bag from getting sucked into the tube and blocking liquid flow. But part of the bag does drag on the bottom of the kettle. No issues at all. Then again, when mashing there is no reason to blast the heat. The unit has low temp settings and that's what I use.

What size kettle and what size of batches can you do on this setup?

Thanks...
 
My normal 8 gal kettle is 14" wide, and my larger 11 gal one is a bit narrower. I brew up to 5 gal batches with the setup.
 
Curious, why do you want a basket?

Curious, why do you want to add heat to the mash? Are your grains going to be so poorly milled that conversion takes that long? If they are going to be milled that coarse, why BIAB? They would be fine to use in a conventional tun.
 
Curious, why do you want to add heat to the mash? Are your grains going to be so poorly milled that conversion takes that long? If they are going to be milled that coarse, why BIAB? They would be fine to use in a conventional tun.

Not sure about the OP, but personally, I like to do step mashes, especially for my German lagers. Start at 148F for 15 minutes, ramp to 158 and hold for 30 minutes.

And I right now I can't see myself using a conventional tun, regardless of crush. Another expense and something else to take up room in the garage. If I ever wanted to do larger than 10 gallon batches I could understand where one might be useful.
 
Curious, why do you want a basket?

For me, it will make the draining easier. With those side hooks, you can just lift up the basket and let it hang over the kettle. It's basically as bag and strainer all in one. I'm just trying to figure out a way to maximize the volume I can get inside the basket. That's the benefit of using a bag. With a bag, you essentially utilize all the available volume. With a basket, there's deadspace.
 
For me, it will make the draining easier. With those side hooks, you can just lift up the basket and let it hang over the kettle. It's basically as bag and strainer all in one. I'm just trying to figure out a way to maximize the volume I can get inside the basket. That's the benefit of using a bag. With a bag, you essentially utilize all the available volume. With a basket, there's deadspace.

That's why I designed my basket to fit wall to wall with no hangers or feet. Those items take up space in your kettle creating dead space. I pull my grain basket, then press the grain bed with a press plate to squeeze sparge. I press while the basket is suspended by the heavy duty pulley.
 
That's why I designed my basket to fit wall to wall with no hangers or feet. Those items take up space in your kettle creating dead space. I pull my grain basket, then press the grain bed with a press plate to squeeze sparge. I press while the basket is suspended by the heavy duty pulley.
+1^^^ this. The other option (if you don't have a heavy duty pulley,) is once it stops dripping, put in a [clean] oil change pan, set it on the ground, then press the snot out of it. Ed
:mug:

Basket-11.jpg
 
That's why I designed my basket to fit wall to wall with no hangers or feet. Those items take up space in your kettle creating dead space. I pull my grain basket, then press the grain bed with a press plate to squeeze sparge. I press while the basket is suspended by the heavy duty pulley.

I don't want to mess with pulleys. I figure that's the tradeoff. If I was going to use a pulley, I'd just stick with a bag. I have a strainer that fits across the kettle so I can lift the bag up, put the strainer under it, and let it drain/press it. But that can get messy when I lift it. With the basket, you don't have to take it out of the kettle.

I also want the ability to add heat in case the mash starts cooling off. I'm always worried when I do that with a bag.
 
I don't want to mess with pulleys. I figure that's the tradeoff. If I was going to use a pulley, I'd just stick with a bag. I have a strainer that fits across the kettle so I can lift the bag up, put the strainer under it, and let it drain/press it. But that can get messy when I lift it. With the basket, you don't have to take it out of the kettle.

I also want the ability to add heat in case the mash starts cooling off. I'm always worried when I do that with a bag.

When I switched to a basket I started making better beer I feel like. I'm not sure what it was but everything tastes better now. I also started using a small mesh basket for hops as well and my beer is so much clearer now as well.
 
+1^^^ this. The other option (if you don't have a heavy duty pulley,) is once it stops dripping, put in a [clean] oil change pan, set it on the ground, then press the snot out of it. Ed
:mug:

Great Idea with the oil pan. I had been searching for something that was the right diameter to set my basket in. I made some hooks to let it sit on top of the pot and drain but I don't think they are sturdy enough to hold up to me pressing the grain.
 
That's why I designed my basket to fit wall to wall with no hangers or feet. Those items take up space in your kettle creating dead space. I pull my grain basket, then press the grain bed with a press plate to squeeze sparge. I press while the basket is suspended by the heavy duty pulley.

How much space do you have between the kettle wall and the baskets side braces?
 
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