justbrewit said:my pot isn't that big, what i do is this. i start my boil and stand right by the pot(i brew on my stove) when i see it start to rise like its going to boil over, i move the pot about half off the burner, this cuts it back a bit, i do this about 5 to 10 times, after that, its hot break city!! then i can keep a good rolling boil like nobodys business!!
Mindflux said:During the boil you are going to want to keep the lid OFF of your brew pot. You'll introduce DMS back into your beer, since it cant evaporate off.
Not exactly. In terms of temperature a boil is a boil, but in terms of how the substances careen around in your pot smashing into each other which enhances break of the proteins as well as boiling off of volatiles during a fierce boil it's a big difference.Mindflux said:A boil is a boil dude, it's just a matter of evaporation rate at that point. Once my wort gets a bubblin I turn my burner down until it's just sort of 'rolling' the surface of the beer around.
BeeGee said:Not exactly. In terms of temperature a boil is a boil, but in terms of how the substances careen around in your pot smashing into each other which enhances break of the proteins as well as boiling off of volatiles during a fierce boil it's a big difference.
BeeGee said:Not exactly. In terms of temperature a boil is a boil, but in terms of how the substances careen around in your pot smashing into each other which enhances break of the proteins as well as boiling off of volatiles during a fierce boil it's a big difference.
I understand what you're saying, but this link seems to have a bit of a differing opinion.Mindflux said:This can all be done with a gentle boil, as opposed to a raging boil. Can you POSSIBLY get better hop AA extraction with a vigorous boil? Maybe.
Interesting info.El Pistolero said:I understand what you're saying, but this link seems to have a bit of a differing opinion.
DeRoux's Broux said:i do a major rolling boil. better for hot/cold break and hop utilization. but, i have a 15.5 g brew kettle.
according to Pro Mash, 15.56% boil off rate, 1.17 g/hrMindflux said:Jesus, what sort of boiloff rate do you have? When I do a slow calm boil I still boil down from 7.5ish to 5.5 in an hour or a little more.
DeRoux's Broux said:according to Pro Mash, 15.56% boil off rate, 1.17 g/hr
Mindflux said:I dont see how that's possible with the type of boil you are describing.. What do you collect for post-boil gallons?
orfy said:Alps are you using Kits or plain extract and your own recipe with hops etc.
There is much debate on this but if you are using high end all extract kits they have already been boiled at the factory and further boiling will just degrade any aroma and flovour hops that are in there.
ALPS said:The extract is all the same (Muntons, Laaglander, Northern..) regardless of who puts the recipe together.Brother, you need do do some research on fermentability of different malt extracts. Laaglander is not anywhere close to being the same as Muntons and will deliver to completely different beers if use alike in the same recipe.
ScottT said:You wouldn't happen to have that info on all the different extracts in a table, or spreadsheet, or webpage somewhere would you?ALPS said:...fermentability of different malt extracts. Laaglander is not anywhere close to being the same as Muntons and will deliver to completely different beers if use alike in the same recipe.
El Pistolero said:ScottT said:You wouldn't happen to have that info on all the different extracts in a table, or spreadsheet, or webpage somewhere would you?
This is what I've got:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter3-5.html
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http://www.leeners.com/breweryx.html
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http://www.listermann.com/Forum/display_message.asp?mid=1958
Fermentability: Dry malt extract from the US and England tend to be more fermentable than those from continental Europe. English DME will provide less body and a dryer finish in the beer while European DME will give the beer more body and malt character.
These guidelines are only a starting point in formulation. It can take a few batches to fine tune the finished beer and it is not uncommon to wind up with a recipe that defies all three rules.
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http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/extract/pres.pdf
Sweeter or Drier Finish -- Extract-based worts can be more- or less-fermentable than their all - 25 grain counterparts. This is determined largely by the manufacturer and his processes. The table in Appendix I has some information on relative fermentability of various extract brands, and additional information can be found in Ray Daniels book Designing Great Beers . Keep your end product in mind when selecting extracts -- for example, if your beer is intended to be dry, dont use Laaglander, but if youre looking for a full-bodied, sweet finish, Laaglander might be a good choice.
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http://www.thehobbyarchive.com/new-3269960-45.html
Dry Extract Attenuation % Range
Muntons Average 70-75
Coopers
Laaglander Low 50-55
CD Carlson
Alexanders Low 48-58
John Bull Low
United Canadian High 85
Liquid Extract
Coopers Average 74
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