question about yeast

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Dave6187

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With the kit I bought from midwest, I purchased the American Ale Wyeast Propagator 1056 smack pack. I was just doing some more reading, and it seems as though maybe this wasn't the best decision, and I will need to make a starter for this? any advice for this when i go to use it?
 
Yes make a starter. Use the Mr Malty Pitching Rate Calculator to determine how much starter you need. If you don't make a starter you will still make beer; so it's OK. But I guarantee you will make better beer with a starter. Without a starter you probably won't ferment out all the way and you'll end up with beer that is too sweet. You also will get off flavors from stressing the yest by not pitching enough.

Nottingham dry ale yeast works as a fine substitute for 1056. No starter or re-hydration required for Nottingham.
 
Nottingham or S-05 ... S-05 is the same strain as 1056.
 
If you're brewing a beer that is 1.055 or less, you can get away without a starter. My advice (and I wish someone had given me this advice when I started) is to use dry yeast. It's cheap, easy and 99% foolproof. Unless you're brewing a Belgian or a Wit or a Hefe et al, Notty, S-04 and S-05 will work with practically anything.
 
With a Propogator a started is needed even for low OG beers according to Wyeast.
I've never tried a propogator (25 billion cells) but use Activators (100 billion).

Starters are easy though.
 
If you're brewing a beer that is 1.055 or less, you can get away without a starter. My advice (and I wish someone had given me this advice when I started) is to use dry yeast. It's cheap, easy and 99% foolproof. Unless you're brewing a Belgian or a Wit or a Hefe et al, Notty, S-04 and S-05 will work with practically anything.

I agree with the dry yeast recommendation. I see no logical reason to use liquid yeast, if the same strain is available in dry yeast. Liquid yeast is more expensive and more likely to be damage during shipping. Dry yeast is cheaper and it starts fast. Of course if your doing a batch that requires a special yeast that isn't available in dry, use the liquid.
 
+1 on dry yeast. I wasted my money on WLP001 for years having never used dry yeast and thinking it was no good. Thank god I found HBT! 2 packs of US-05 instead of a gallon starter for my IIPA = cheap and easy.
 
Interesting the shift in attitudes towards dry yeast in the last four years. My work here is done.:rockin:
 
Interesting the shift in attitudes towards dry yeast in the last four years. My work here is done.:rockin:

I think one of your posts a few months back convinced me to go dry. I keep 4 each of S-04, S-05, and Notty in my fridge at all times. Thanks for the advice!
 
+1 on dry yeast. I wasted my money on WLP001 for years having never used dry yeast and thinking it was no good. Thank god I found HBT! 2 packs of US-05 instead of a gallon starter for my IIPA = cheap and easy.

I think with yeast washing, you can easily make your liquid yeast last for about 20-25 batches from a single vial or smak-pak with about 5 generations.

Certain yeast like WLP001 that are very neutral maybe not so important, but those such as Wits, Wheats, Kolsch, etc...there is just no way to attain those flavor characteristics without the right yeast, and $7-$8 bucks for 1 vial of White Labs that will last over at least the next 20 batches is a good deal.

Consider buying dry yeast at .99 cents per (my LHBS charges 1.99 for Notty) x 20, that is about the same cost as 3 WL Vials. 3 vials could trickle down to 60 batches!

Although you could wash the dry yeast as well, many don't because it is so inexpensive.

I think the value is in the liquid yeasts, I know it can be argued, but you just can't attain certain flavor profiles with dry.

I don't know if larger breweries, or microbreweries/brewpubs use dry yeasts, but if they don't, I guess there is another point of debate.
 
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