Question about Mount Hood hops

[SDouglas82]

My recipe calls for 3/4 ounce Mt. Hood bittering pellet hops. I picked up 1 ounce and was wondering if I should use the full ounce or scale back to the recommended 3/4 ounce. How will it change the flavor? It's an extract kit if that matters.


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[Foosier]

If the recipe calls for 3/4 ounce, I would use only that amount. If you don't your beer will be more bitter than it was designed to be. Is that a problem? Not necessarily. It is really a matter of taste. Honestly, if you wanted to use it all, I'd probably use 3/4 oz at the beginning of the boil for bittering and put the rest in at 5 minutes as an aroma addition.

 

[boydster]

If it is a bittering addition (boiled for 30+ minutes) it will contribute noticeably more bitterness as you are increasing the amount by 33%. What is the recipe you have? Perhaps the extra bitterness would work, or maybe you could you the remainder for a late hop or flameout addition? 1/4 isn't much, but some recipes are perfect for subtle late hops.

 

[SDouglas82]

Thanks for the help. I don't own a digital scale, so I'll have to eyeball it. Great idea to use the extra 1/4 ounce for the end of boil.


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[rlmiller10]

Depending on how well they were stored using extra might be just what the recipe needs. By this time of year most hops are at least 9 months hold so if not stored under perfect conditions have lost as much as 50% of their alfa acids. I have been adding about 20% extra to my last few beers to get the flavor and bitterness up to where I think they should be.

 

[SDouglas82]

If it is a bittering addition (boiled for 30+ minutes) it will contribute noticeably more bitterness as you are increasing the amount by 33%. What is the recipe you have? Perhaps the extra bitterness would work, or maybe you could you the remainder for a late hop or flameout addition? 1/4 isn't much, but some recipes are perfect for subtle late hops.

Here is the recipe. See picture.




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[rodwha]

With a startting gravity of 1.060 and an ending gravity of 1.010-1.014 you'll be well over the stated 4.8% ABV.

I'd say use the other 1/4 oz between 5 and 20 mins. At 5 mins it adds aroma and between 15-20 mins it'll add flavor. Or add it at 10 mins and get a little bit of both.

I also see it includes crystal 10. That's not supposed to be in a hefe is it?

You do have yeast for it right?

 

[SDouglas82]

With a startting gravity of 1.060 and an ending gravity of 1.010-1.014 you'll be well over the stated 4.8% ABV.

I'd say use the other 1/4 oz between 5 and 20 mins. At 5 mins it adds aroma and between 15-20 mins it'll add flavor. Or add it at 10 mins and get a little bit of both.

I also see it includes crystal 10. That's not supposed to be in a hefe is it?

You do have yeast for it right?

Not sure about the crystal 10, this is my 6th time brewing. Yes on the yeast (US-05).


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[rodwha]

Do you have a hydrometer and thermometer?

I'll run that recipe through Brewtoad and get an idea of what it ought to be...

 

[rodwha]

What are the AA's of the Mt Hood hops you have?

 

[SDouglas82]

What are the AA's of the Mt Hood hops you have?

6.1 AA


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[rodwha]

Assuming I used the right Munich Brewtoad comes up with:
1.057/1.011 for 6% ABV
Using 3/4 oz of Mt Hood @ 60 mins and the rest @ 20 mins with the default 6.5% AA's it gives 19 IBU's.
It also shows 4 SRM and not 7 as it states, but I could be using the wrong Munich or it could be accounting for boiling the DME, which darkens it.

Were it me I'd use 1/3 or 1/2 of the DME in the boil with the remainder added at the end so as not to darken it up so much.

 

[rodwha]

At 6.1% AA's it gives it 18 IBU's if you add the 1/4 oz leftover at 20 mins, which is still rather low.

 

[boydster]

Entering this into Brewtarget for 5 gallons (I normally do 5.5 to account for trub and I can run those numbers if you want), I come up with OG of 1.059 and 21.8 IBUs with only the .75 oz Mt Hood added at 60 minutes using Tinseth approximation and then 7.0 SRM assuming the Munich is the default 9.0 SRM that my software shows instead of Munich 10L or 20L which are also options. At 5.5 gallons, it's 1.054 OG, 19.8 IBUs, and 6.6 SRM.

The 5.5 gallon size allows you to collect 5 gallons into the bottling bucket after trub loss. The 5.5 gallon numbers I listed are the most in line with what the HBT wiki has for American Hefeweizen guidelines. They are just numbers though, so take it with a grain of salt. Hop aroma should be low to moderate, so if you use late hops the 1/4 oz of Mt Hood is probably perfect with respect to the amount of aroma/flavor and also style (spicy or floral hop character).

I've never had luck with Brewtoad matching my expectations with a brew. I'm not sure why, maybe it's just because I'm used to Brewtarget and so I know what to expect. Regardless, the beer should turn out well

A full pound of Crystal 10 seems out of place, but there is no sense messing with the recipe until you have made it the way it was intended first. Once you've tried it, it's much easier to make adjustments on the next batch to suit your tastes.

 

[rodwha]

I entered Munich 10 figuring it to be lighter without knowing what it is.

I'm also unsure of what the default scale for IBU's is.

Is the gravity different for the different Munichs?

 

[rodwha]

My results are usually close and sometimes spot on. But with improper mash temps in the past I cannot say that it wasn't me.

I noticed Brewtoad gave closer numbers when they first took over Hopville, which is what I used prior. I entered what I had used and noticed our numbers nearly matched.

I've been a bit unhappy with Brewtoad for other reasons, but have kept using them as I'm familiar with it.

 

[boydster]

I entered Munich 10 figuring it to be lighter without knowing what it is.

I'm also unsure of what the default scale for IBU's is.

Is the gravity different for the different Munichs?

All I know off hand is what my software tells me In Brewtarget, I've got Munich Malt, Munich Malt 10L, and Munich Malt 20L. Here's what each says:

Munich Malt: 9.0 SRM, 80% yield
Munich Malt 10L: 10 SRM, 77% yield
Munich Malt 20L: 20 SRM, 75% yield

Based on that, it does look as though you'll get a little bit less of a gravity contribution as the color gets darker.

Switching from Tinseth to Rager for the IBU approximation actually doesn't change much. I go from 19.8 to 19.2 respectively on the 5.5 gallon batch.

My results are usually close and sometimes spot on. But with improper mash temps in the past I cannot say that it wasn't me.

I noticed Brewtoad gave closer numbers when they first took over Hopville, which is what I used prior. I entered what I had used and noticed our numbers nearly matched.

I've been a bit unhappy with Brewtoad for other reasons, but have kept using them as I'm familiar with it.

I liked Hopville, too, although I didn't use it much before I just downloaded Brewtarget. I keep telling myself one day I'll get Beersmith like everyone else, but I've always been a fan of open source software and Brewtarget just seems to do everything I need so switching hasn't been a priority.

 

[rodwha]

Hmmm…

And did you enter a pound of crystal or 11 oz?

I wonder why the different gravities though. Not that 2 points is a big difference, but they ought to be the same +/- 1 I'd say.

 

[rodwha]

I get ~15 IBU's if I drop the 1/4 oz @ 20 mins.

 

[boydster]

I put a pound, that's what the pic looked like on my screen. Changing it to 11 oz changes it to 1.053 OG and 6.3 SRM for 5.5g (or 1.058 and 6.7 for 5 gallons).

 

[boydster]

I am only getting an extra 4.4 IBUs from added 1/4oz of 6.1%AA hops at 20 minutes... not sure what the difference is there.

 

[rodwha]

I'm downloading Brewtarget now.

But you are adding 4 IBU's to the 19 giving you 25 compared to my 18 with the addition.

 

[rodwha]

I'm also curious why the SRM difference. Isn't there two scales for that as well?

 

[boydster]

I can't explain the difference, I could only speculate.

 

[rodwha]

By all means speculate!

 

[SDouglas82]

Thanks for all the help. First time taking a hydrometer reading and my S.G. was 1.052. The wort was 80.8 degrees Fahrenheit. Hope this sounds correct.


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[rodwha]

My Mac won't open it saying it doesn't recognize it. Hmmm… There's only the one option for a Mac it seems.

 

[rodwha]

Is that reading corrected for temperature? I'd guess you'd need to add about 2 points al depending on the temp it's zeroed at. But it also depends on how well it's been stirred.

 

[rodwha]

That's also a bit warm for pitching yeast. Not that it won't work, but it's best to get it into the 60's or even low 70's.