Pull Through (dimpled) TC Ferrules for Soldering Prototype Stuff

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Have you tested this on a sanke? Just curious on how difficult it is? I’m going electric and would like to test the waters of this process for when I upgrade kettles.
 
Have you tested this on a sanke? Just curious on how difficult it is? I’m going electric and would like to test the waters of this process for when I upgrade kettles.

I've done a bunch of kettles and sankes using a home-made dimpler, and it works just fine, just takes a little more muscle on the wrenches.
 
Is anyone using this type of connection for gas-fired systems? Or just electric? I know the surface heat on the pot is a heck of a lot higher with gas, but with a full kettle, not sure if it would be enough to mess with the solder joint.
 
Is anyone using this type of connection for gas-fired systems? Or just electric? I know the surface heat on the pot is a heck of a lot higher with gas, but with a full kettle, not sure if it would be enough to mess with the solder joint.
I use the 1/2inch npt pull through fittings on my gas fired hlt. I've had no problems.
Can't imagine the TC fittings will be any different


As long as there is water over or around the fitting I doubt there is anything to worry about.
 
Is anyone using this type of connection for gas-fired systems? Or just electric? I know the surface heat on the pot is a heck of a lot higher with gas, but with a full kettle, not sure if it would be enough to mess with the solder joint.

I was worried a little about this, then I remembered playing with little paper cups of water in the camp fire.
 
My first go at it, took a little fussing with to get the solder just right.:rolleyes:

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FYI it takes four wraps of 1/16" solder to fill the dimple full. Probably not necessary but that's how I did this one.
 
My first go at it, took a little fussing with to get the solder just right.:rolleyes:

View attachment 562274

View attachment 562275

FYI it takes four wraps of 1/16" solder to fill the dimple full. Probably not necessary but that's how I did this one.

Looks like you dimpled from the inside, and then re-inserted the ferrule from the outside. Good job!!:ban:
 
Looks like you dimpled from the inside, and then re-inserted the ferrule from the outside. Good job!!:ban:

That's right!

I practiced on an old pot lid I had laying around, I got the feel for how it likes to line up and got the nerve to do it to my Spike kettle lid. The ferrule seems to slip in pretty easily on the second (reverse) pull, I think if you feel much resistance at all you should stop, loosen and realign.

I am thinking about trying to drill out the welded coupling on my kettle and pulling a ferrule through next. I keep stalling but I think I am going to do it!
 
Well I did it!! Drilled out the bottom full coupling on my Spike 20 gallon kettle. What a chore with a step bit, as you can see several steps were drilling into the coupling before it broke it free. Took a while but it is done and the flare came out quite nice. I flared this one inward because I wanted the tc close to the kettle. Unfortunately with the .8" (medium) ferrules the clamps wing nut just slightly interferes with the kettle, so I ordered a few 1.125" (long) ferrules that should be just right.

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I just wanted to say Bobby's tool works awesome! I actually applied cutting oil to mine such that it didn't end up marring the tool. All my ferrules (only 4 so far) have been flared outward and then pulled back in. No issues with tearing has been seen so far. If you follow this be absolutely sure to use acetone or mineral spirits to completely remove the oil before silver soldering and you should encounter no issues.
 
I think annealing will be the word of the day for those larger fittings. The drilling process hardens the edges of the hole, and that's a lot of stretch. It should be trivial with a torch.
 
I do have a 2" prototype but I haven't tried it on enough pot configurations to be production ready
Any update on the 2". I recently installed 1/2" in my mashtun and could not be happier. Looking forward to updating my bk and would prefer a 2"tc for my element for wiggle room.
 
I have the tool parts in 2" TC now. The only thing I'm still tracking down is a large enough fender washer to nicely cover the 2" flange. After that, figure out how to make sense of all the different combinations. People that have the old 1/2" tool that want to upgrade to the 2" TC; people that have the 1.5TC tool and want to upgrade to 2"; etc, etc, etc. Give me maybe a week.
 
I have the tool parts in 2" TC now. The only thing I'm still tracking down is a large enough fender washer to nicely cover the 2" flange. After that, figure out how to make sense of all the different combinations. People that have the old 1/2" tool that want to upgrade to the 2" TC; people that have the 1.5TC tool and want to upgrade to 2"; etc, etc, etc. Give me maybe a week.
Thanks for the update!
 
Thanks for the update. I’ll take the 2 inch along with the 1.5 and 1/2 inch. Take my money. Just tell me where to send it to you
 
anyone have advice on how to fix a mistake I made... I have all 1/2" fittings and made the hole in my kettle too large.. it's 1.0625 (1/16")

I tried using a welding spud but wasn't able to achieve enough surface area or something and I couldn't get it to seal properly. I've done it twice. Now I'm wondering if I should use a triclamp and step down to 1/2".. Might be a better idea to just buy a new kettle at this point :(
 
anyone have advice on how to fix a mistake I made... I have all 1/2" fittings and made the hole in my kettle too large.. it's 1.0625 (1/16")

I tried using a welding spud but wasn't able to achieve enough surface area or something and I couldn't get it to seal properly. I've done it twice. Now I'm wondering if I should use a triclamp and step down to 1/2".. Might be a better idea to just buy a new kettle at this point :(
Is the spud not sitting flush due to curvature.?
 
Besides cleaning and using appropriate flux, perhaps try and clamp the spud over the opening to seat it flush with the kettle wall to hopefully provide a flush fit.

Hopefully Bobby has a better suggestion, he has extensive experience w/ this.

Edit
Bobby’s video shows a simple clamp at the 8 minute mark.
 
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