Pros/cons of aerating with pure oxygen

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The blow off might be mildly increased with 0-2 but some fermcap will help control it. Why not go the the 6 gallon glass carboy, it is the same diameter as the 5 gallon and you loss much less to blow off. I found it to be a win win situation with more beer and less mess. I used a 5 gallon carboy for my first 15 or so batches, now I don't see why I would ever consider using one for more than a 4 gallon batch.:mug:
I started using a 7 gallon Fermonster for my primaries, and I don't worry about blowoff in any of my batches anymore - even some of the feisty Belgians.
 
I started using a 7 gallon Fermonster for my primaries, and I don't worry about blowoff in any of my batches anymore - even some of the feisty Belgians.

I'm doing the 8.5 gal fermentation bucket. Never needs a blow-off. Now that I have said that, I will have an issue from this point on...
 
My random extra data point...

When I went to pure O2, I saw:
1) Faster starts
2) Slightly faster fermentation
3) Faster clearing

I'm not sure it made any difference in the finished product, but it seems to get to "finished" a bit faster. I can definitely see why big breweries would do it. I also suspect that you might see bigger differences in future yeast generations since they seem to be very healthy and happy at the end.
 
The conclusion that I came to, is oxygenation is just another small step of many that can help to make your brew better.

My theory is if you're doing everything else right, the oxygenation will have only a slight impact on your brew. If, on the other hand you don't do much else, I believe that aerating with pure O2 could be a big help.

Probably not much more than "slight", unless it is a high-gravity beer, or you don't have your system figured out, or you don't make good yeast starters that will produce a sufficient cell count of a certain viability &/or vitality.

Another factor related to aeration is how much trub ends up in primary. I used to be really picky about not wanting trub. I'd add an extra half gallon to my desired batch size so I would have as little trub as possible in primary. Partly because I brew smaller batches and I couldn't afford the waste.

I am not sure on the science behind it, but trub in primary and aeration are linked as far as what they contribute to yeast health.

Since I learned that, I have always tried to get a little trub into the fermenter. Not a ton, but some.
 
I started using a 7 gallon Fermonster for my primaries, and I don't worry about blowoff in any of my batches anymore - even some of the feisty Belgians.

I am doing the same! I like the large fermonster lots of room and is light.so far I haven't needed a blow off rig with it.:mug:
 
I use 1/16 LPM flow rate and even then there are bubbles forming on the surface. I have a spreadsheet to estimate how long to flow O2 at a certain flow rate to get the concentration I want. Using 1 LPM seems to me like a big waste of O2.
 
You need a clean .5 micron stone to get bubbles small enough to (almost) immediately dissolve.
 
I use a clean 0.5 µ stone so in my experience that is definitely not the case.

You are saying that you use a 0.5 µ stone with 1 LPM flow rate and the O2 is immediately dissolving?
 
"It's Magic!"

Doesn't happen here, though. I run a .5u Williams wand at a metered .5 LPM for typically four minutes swirling like the dickens the whole time and there's at least an inch thick foam head when I'm done.

When I then load a carboy in the ferm fridge I'll first rock it around to try to capture that foam but I'm pretty sure any beneficial effect is minimal.
But it feels right :)

Cheers!
 
"It's Magic!"

Doesn't happen here, though. I run a .5u Williams wand at a metered .5 LPM for typically four minutes swirling like the dickens the whole time and there's at least an inch thick foam head when I'm done.

When I then load a carboy in the ferm fridge I'll first rock it around to try to capture that foam but I'm pretty sure any beneficial effect is minimal.
But it feels right :)

Cheers!

4 minute @ .5 LPM! Wow! They seem to recommend up to 1m.
 
These are the points I considered when I decided to use an air pump rather than O2. My belief is if I add air containing oxygen over time while the yeast is in it's respiratory phase, it will be what it needs, as it needs it.

I'm not saying adding O2 is bad, but I can imagine oxidizing some compounds in the cool wort simply by the introduction of concentrated O2. O2 is vital to us, but breathing pure O2 is often irritating to mucous membranes. My hypothesis/belief is that it can be similarly detrimental to more sensitive compounds in the beer.

Now don't get me wrong, I am NOT saying people adding O2 are wrong. I am saying that there can be too much of a good thing, and that adding air over a longer period of time has a wider margin of error than adding O2 over a very short period of time. I'm not in a rush when brewing, I have plenty of things to do while the air pump runs.

Interesting discussion!

I wonder how we could measure if adding O2 actually did negatively impact the beer, aside from subjective tests? I suppose it would first have to be one of extremes: A split batch, one half oxygenated for the standard time (30 seconds?) and one half for let's go crazy and say 10 minutes. Put them in front of a panel of judges and see what happens.

Adding air with aquarium pump is definitely Ok, as long as you accept the following:

1. You are not really pumping air/oxygen into the yeast directly, you are dissolving it into the water, for yeast to use. So at the same ppm, it doesn't matter how it got there. You analogy with directly breathing 100% oxygen vs. breathing air with 20% is wrong. If you went into the space station with 22% or whatever partial pressure of O2, you wouldn't care too much if it came from pure oxygen or from air.

2. You can never get to 9-10ppm of O2 with aquarium pump.

3. You may need to run your aquarium pump for 20-30 min, while pure oxygen takes 30-60 seconds, to get to comparable values of oxygenation. Will you be sitting there watching your pump working for 20-30min?

4. You run a much higher risk of pumping your wort full of bacteria and wild yeast if you use air pump running for 20-30min than using oxygen from the tank for say 60 seconds. Especially if you don't filter your air.

In either case you should use a filter, but still, the risk with pumping room air is always higher than with pure O2 from the can.

For $10 O2 canisters, which lasts half a dozen of batches or so, for me - it's no brainer. Use O2, just don't walk away and leave it on for too long.

To me the question of - can you "over-oxygenate a wort" is sort of like asking "can you overcook and burn a quesadilla" - of course you can - if you are negligent and leave it for way, way, too long.

So in summary: Don't be negligent, follow the instructions. Don't oxygenate your standard 5G batch for more than 60 seconds or so. 2 minutes is probably still ok (think well-browned quesadilla). But 10 min or an hour is definitely NOT ok - think "burned to a crisp" quesadilla.
 
"They" didn't have the benefit of benchmarks set by an HBTer with a DO meter...or, apparently, Chris White's Yeast....

Cheers!

OOOooo... link me HBTer with a DO Meter :) if you can ;-)

I thought the book said a max 2m for 5gal? Are you doing 10gal?

BTW, got two O2 canisters for $4 clearance at Sears a couple weeks back. Score!
 
Adding air with aquarium pump is definitely Ok, as long as you accept the following:

1. You are not really pumping air/oxygen into the yeast directly, you are dissolving it into the water, for yeast to use. So at the same ppm, it doesn't matter how it got there. You analogy with directly breathing 100% oxygen vs. breathing air with 20% is wrong. If you went into the space station with 22% or whatever partial pressure of O2, you wouldn't care too much if it came from pure oxygen or from air.
You completely lost me there. My point is I am placing my word in direct contact with a strong oxidizer as opposed to a dilated oxidizer.

2. You can never get to 9-10ppm of O2 with aquarium pump.
And this is not as important as having available oxygen for the respiratory phase. One can either introduce enough for that phase all at once, or introduce it over time.

3. You may need to run your aquarium pump for 20-30 min, while pure oxygen takes 30-60 seconds, to get to comparable values of oxygenation. Will you be sitting there watching your pump working for 20-30min?
No, I'll be cleaning up. :)

4. You run a much higher risk of pumping your wort full of bacteria and wild yeast if you use air pump running for 20-30min than using oxygen from the tank for say 60 seconds. Especially if you don't filter your air.
HEPA filters are cheap.

In either case you should use a filter, but still, the risk with pumping room air is always higher than with pure O2 from the can.
I disagree ... filtered is filtered. What additional risk is there of introducing air for a longer period of time provided it is filtered with a HEPA filter?

So in summary: Don't be negligent, follow the instructions. Don't oxygenate your standard 5G batch for more than 60 seconds or so. 2 minutes is probably still ok (think well-browned quesadilla). But 10 min or an hour is definitely NOT ok - think "burned to a crisp" quesadilla.
This is a good analogy ... I choose to cook it on low rather than high. We should get the same thing. I do things while mine is cooking, you watch it for a short period of time. All's well that ends well.
 
I use the BernzOmatic tank and I can't remember the last time I replaced it. I used to attach the stone to the tank via a length of tubing but seeing as though its kept coiled and likes to stay that way I've since added a length of clean sterilized copper tubing between the stone and the tank so I can control the stone location better. I hated the shaking of the carboys.
I keep the stone in a sealed container of StarSan so I don't need to boil or worry about clogs
 
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