Problem with priming

[onodle]

Hi all,

First time poster, long time reader. I've made a few batches of all grain beer and although still a learning process I have been getting better and better. This time around I chose to create a Belgian Pale Ale using the following:

Belgian pale malt
Caramunich I
Golding Hops
Sazz Hops
Added Irish Mosh at the end
Wyeast 3522 Belgian Ardennes Yeast

Everything seemed to turn out great the colour was very light I had a bit carbination from the brewing process and it tasted very crisp and light.

I had already decided after some past Ales becoming flat I would have a go at priming so I done the following:

I added 6.5g of Cane Sugar (per ltr I had 23 ltrs) to 150ml boiling water, disolved it all and allowed to cool. However on adding the sugar my brew turned a very muddy brown lost all carbination and the taste become instantly heavy and not very plesant.

Have I done something wrong? Do I need to allow it a few days after bottling to clea? Had it become contaminated it seems after attempting to prime for the first time the entire beer transformed to something totally different!

Thanks in advance

Gerry

*Although images are not the best I have included two I took during the process the one I'm not holding is pre-priming the one in the air is after priming

 

[hockeyrounds]

Did you take OG and FG readings? Maybe the yeast gave up on life..

 

[jonny24]

I had already decided after some past Ales becoming flat I would have a go at priming so I done the following:

I added 6.5g of Cane Sugar (per ltr I had 23 ltrs) to 150ml boiling water, disolved it all and allowed to cool. However on adding the sugar my brew turned a very muddy brown lost all carbination and the taste become instantly heavy and not very plesant.

Have I done something wrong? Do I need to allow it a few days after bottling to clea? Had it become contaminated it seems after attempting to prime for the first time the entire beer transformed to something totally different!

It sounds like you didn't prime your previous batches? If not then they would have none or very little carbonation (only if it hadn't quite hit FG when you bottled).

What you want to do is prime with sugar when you are bottling, and then wait about three weeks to give time to carbonate from the yeast eating the priming sugar.

Not sure what exactly happened with the beer you posted

 

[onodle]

Yes took OG and FG

No I never primied my previous batches, my previous ones have always been a heavier traditional cask ale so having a primed beer has never been a prioirty for me so the carbination has always been low.

Yes I mixed the sugar in when I started to bottle I added the sugar and water combination, mixed it all into the beer and then started to bottle.

So if I wait a few weeks it might clear up and go back to how it was? I'm not sure if something else happened or if the yeast has all but gone somehow..

 

[RedlegEd]

Yes I mixed the sugar in when I started to bottle I added the sugar and water combination, mixed it all into the beer and then started to bottle.

When you mixed your priming solution into the beer, was it still in the fermenting vessel (FV?) If so, did you stir up the trub when you added it? One thing you might consider doing before bottling is to cold crash the beer a day or two to help it settle, then bottle the cleared beer. Keep the bottles in a dark place at room temperature for a week or two. You should still have plenty of yeast available to condition in the bottle.

 

[onodle]

Yes it was still in the FV. I didnt go deep into the container to stir it to avoid scraping up the gunk at the bottom.

So next time take it off heat, let it sit for a day or two (after or before I prime?) And then bottle?

Thanks for all the help

 

[RedlegEd]

Yes it was still in the FV. I didnt go deep into the container to stir it to avoid scraping up the gunk at the bottom.

So next time take it off heat, let it sit for a day or two (after or before I prime?) And then bottle?

Thanks for all the help

I was referring to your current batch to cold crash for a day or two before you bottle. It is already primed.

In the future (next time,) if you can, cool your beer to help it clear, then put your priming solution into a bottling bucket. Rack (transfer) your fermented beer into the bucket (it will mix with the priming solution) being very careful not to disturb the trub or splash (oxygenate) your beer as it's being transferred. Bottle from the bottling bucket. While batch priming is easier, you can also bottle prime by adding sugar directly to the bottle before filling. I don't know what size bottles you use, so I can't say exactly how much to use, but a good rule of thumb is 4g of sugar for a 1/2L bottle (500ml). That's about a rounded teaspoon and it should give you 2.2 to 2.4 volumes of CO2 once conditioned. Be very sure you have reached your FG before you bottle. If the beer is still fermenting, you can easily over-carbonate. There are many good resources on bottling techniques that should be helpful. Good luck.

 

[onodle]

Ah I already bottled - OK will do that for the next batch as I have another one brewing now to make up for the posible loss on this.

Do you think if I let it sit in the bottle now it might come out OK or best to clean the drains with it

Yes I batched primed while it was all in the FV - I think this may have been my mistake. Thanks for the bottle tip, yes I use 500ml bottles.

 

[RedlegEd]

Absolutely let it sit! Never write off your beer unless you know for sure it's bad. You might have a very good batch that just needs a little time to develop. Yeast are amazing little creatures and will often surprise and delight you with what they can do. Remember they make the beer, you are just giving them a place to do it!

Let your bottles condition for 10 days to two weeks in a dark place, then take a few of them and put them in the refrigerator for two days to chill. You may get a little more sediment in the bottom than usual in this batch, so pour carefully. Now, if you drink that beer and must hold your nose to even swallow, then by all means, clean your drain.

 

[onodle]

Brilliant thanks

 

[Braumeise]

I dissolve the needed amount of Corn Sugar according to the priming calculator from brewersfriend in a cup of water, bring it to a boil, let it boil for 2-3 min., cool down and pour it into my bottling bucket before siphoning the beer from the fermenting bucket on top.

works very well for me.

 

[onodle]

Right so it seems I have been missing a step all this time! So from the FV i should transfer to another bucket and then bottle from that bucket?

 

[RedlegEd]

Right so it seems I have been missing a step all this time! So from the FV i should transfer to another bucket and then bottle from that bucket?

It is not a necessary step, but IMO makes the bottling process a little easier and helps you bottle a more clear beer. The only difference between a bottling bucket and fermenting bucket is a spigot about 2 inches from the bottom. All of my buckets have spigots, and I use them for fermenting as well as bottling. As I said earlier, you can certainly bottle straight from the FV, but you have to be careful of not picking up trub (the gunk at the bottom,) at the same time not over-filling your bottle. It can get hectic. If you are careful with your cleanliness and sanitation, adding a bottling bucket will make it easier to bottle your beer. Here's a link on the basic process. If you bottle in swing-top bottles, you can disregard the part about caps and a capper. There are also many YouTube videos explaining how to bottle using a bottling bucket. Once you do it, I think you'll like it.

 

[kombat]

OK there are some serious concerns going on here. Ultimately, it sounds like the OP simply didn't give the yeast time to ferment the priming sugars and carbonate the beers. OP, how long did you wait after bottling before trying a bottle of beer? No one seems to have asked this question. It sounds like he drank them right away. You need to give the yeast 2-3 weeks, with the bottles stored at around 70° F, for them to produce the carbonation in the bottle.

Secondly, what did you mean by "take it off heat, let it sit for a day or two?" What "heat" is your beer on??? Why is your beer on "heat?" You should be fermenting your beer at around 62 - 65° F (for ales). Sometimes that can include a heat source, in concert with a cooling source, to keep the beer in that range, but the way you worded it is odd and suggests you might have your beer subjected to a continuous heat source. Can you clarify?

Thirdly, yes, your beer is cloudy because you primed in your primary fermentation vessel. As others have described, the general procedure is to (gently) rack your finished beer from the primary fermenter into a "bottling bucket" (already containing your dissolved priming sugar), leaving the yeast and trub behind in the main fermenter (don't worry, there's still plenty of yeast in suspension to perform bottle carbonation), then immediately bottle from THAT bucket (don't wait a day or two, do it right away).

So, boil up your priming sugar, put it in a bottling bucket, gently rack your beer into the same bucket, bottle and cap immediately, store the bottles at 70° F for 3 weeks, then move them into the fridge for a day or two, THEN try one.

 

[Braumeise]

Right so it seems I have been missing a step all this time! So from the FV i should transfer to another bucket and then bottle from that bucket?

It makes it a lot easier since you can leave all yeast and other residue in the fermenting bucket and only siphon out the beer.

I let my bottled wit beer sit at room temperature for at least two weeks (usually longer 3 weeks +) and keep them at least 4 days in the fridge before opening/drinking...