Primary/secondary Fermentation

[usaf1199a]

I'm starting to homebrew this week for the first time and I just want to clarify something. How long would the wort sit in the primary bucket before I transfer it to the secondary glass carboy? And then at what point would I be able to bottle? I realize there are various factors (type of beer) but I'm just looking for a general answer. I'm brewing an Irish stout. Thanks very much!

 

[messiah]

Well, why do you want to secondary? It is debatable that its even needed. A recipe would really help, and gravity readings are the tell all of when you can bottle. However, many like to let the yeast clean up a bit after fermentation is complete anyway.

 

[evrose]

I'm starting to homebrew this week for the first time and I just want to clarify something. How long would the wort sit in the primary bucket before I transfer it to the secondary glass carboy? And then at what point would I be able to bottle? I realize there are various factors (type of beer) but I'm just looking for a general answer. I'm brewing an Irish stout. Thanks very much!

For an irish stout, I'd do about three weeks in a primary, then bottle. Skip the secondary.

Secondaries are useful in some situations (dry hopping, adding fruit), but mostly aren't needed.

The amount of time in a primary should really be determined by the hydrometer. Three stable gravity reading over three days indicates that the fermentation is done and ready to bottle/keg. Some people leave the beer a bit longer for aging/conditioning... depending on the style and such.

 

[IslandLizard]

Most of us here have no need for a secondary. You only risk stuck fermentation, incomplete conditioning, oxidation, and infection. Let the beer be until it's done.

Fermentation:
Start fermenting in the lower temperature range of your yeast. 62-65°F would be great for most. 70-75 is too high. Depending on where you live and where you do the fermentation, you may need to cool it down a bit. Google swamp cooler for ideas on how to keep your beer in that temperature range. Make sure you have signs of active fermentation.

Conditioning:
When the beer is almost done (2 weeks after brew day), bring it into somewhat higher temps, around 70°F, to condition out for a week.

When is your beer done?
3 weeks after you pitched the yeast, take 2 gravity samples 3 days apart. If they give you the same reading and it is close to your estimated Final Gravity (FG), it is done. The kit should tell you what the estimated Final Gravity (FG) should be. If the 2 readings are different, take another one 3 days later until you have 2 in succession that match. Now you can bottle.

 

[usaf1199a]

Thanks for the input. I keep getting conflicting recommendations. I know my brew kit came with both a bucket and the glass carboy. The people at my local homebrew store said that 2 stage yields a better product so I wanted to try it since I have the capability to.

 

[budbo]

Secondary will give you more clarity, won't have much effect on the taste. If you are going to brew a heavy,and let it age out for a few months, definitely want to rack it off the cake

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks for the input. I keep getting conflicting recommendations. I know my brew kit came with both a bucket and the glass carboy....

Does that bucket have a spigot on the bottom? If so, it is really meant to be used as a bottling bucket. In that case use the carboy as your (primary) and only fermentor. To be used as such, that carboy must be at least 6 gallons if you're brewing 5 gallons. You'll need 1-1.5 gallons of headspace in a primary.

Glass carboys are good fermentors, and the airlock will give you positive feedback on fermentation, as does the glass display. Buckets use lids, and most never seal well enough to push gas through the airlock. Downside is carboys are fragile and if they break could cause serious bodily injury and damage.

...The people at my local homebrew store said that 2 stage yields a better product so I wanted to try it since I have the capability to.

That's incorrect. It will most likely create an inferior product, since you're losing the CO2 blanket covering your beer when racking. You also increase risk of contamination/infection. Also you don't want to pull the rug from underneath your yeast, literally. Again, there is no benefit for secondary in this particular brew. Look around on this forum and learn. Don't take just my word for it.

Only if you're adding fruit adjuncts, lagering, long term storing/conditioning, a secondary has benefits. Sometimes a dry hop (IPA) is done in a secondary, but many of us never do for reasons mentioned above.

Since you're brewing a stout, there is no need for clarity either. If you desire clarity in a (lighter colored) beer, you must use a fining agent, such as Irish Moss in the boil, and do a cold crash of the beer (refrigerator) a few days before bottling/kegging.

Hint:
If you want to get experience with racking, fill the carboy up with water and rack it into your bucket. Then back and forth as many times as you want.

 

[usaf1199a]

The bucket does not have a spigot. The carboy is 6 gallons so I guess I will just use that. Glass is more preferable anyways I assume. You're the best! Thanks very much for your help.

 

[kiblerjd]

There is a lot of good info here but if I were you I wouldn't worry a ton about exact temps and stuck fermentation and all of that in your first brew.

If you want to keep it simple here is what I would do. If you are using your bottling bucket as your fermenter you have no choice about going to a secondary fermenter or buying another bucket because you have to get it off the garbage before you stir in the priming sugar.

Unless you are kegging you will have to do at least one transfer.

I do agree however that either way with a dark stout you don't need to condition in a fermenter because the beer won't be clear either way.... It's dark.

Good luck. Don't worry too much just have fun and make beer.

 

[evrose]

Thanks for the input. I keep getting conflicting recommendations. I know my brew kit came with both a bucket and the glass carboy. The people at my local homebrew store said that 2 stage yields a better product so I wanted to try it since I have the capability to.

The people at your homebrew store are wrong.

A secondary MIGHT give you a clearer beer. Might. It does allow for some additional process additions, like fruit, dry hopping, and extended (many months) aging.

For 90% of brews, a secondary will produce no noticeable increase in quality. For an irish stout like you're making, there's no reason to secondary.

You have a bucket and a carboy... to me that means you can ferment two beers at the same time! Woot!

 

[usaf1199a]

Haha! Sounds good to me. I'm just worrying too much I guess. I've been wanting to get into this for years now so I can't wait to get started!

 

[Shuldawg]

Yes indeed, the anticipation is the hardest thing in home brewing, and a close second is attention to sanitation. Anywho... If this is your first brew I would stick to just the primary and skip the secondary at least until you get comfortable with the process. Plus it is one less thing to worry about.

Welcome to the club and Happy Brewing!

 

[usaf1199a]

Yes indeed, the anticipation is the hardest thing in home brewing, and a close second is attention to sanitation. Anywho... If this is your first brew I would stick to just the primary and skip the secondary at least until you get comfortable with the process. Plus it is one less thing to worry about.

Welcome to the club and Happy Brewing!

Thanks. I appreciate the support. Happy to have found the forum!