Prevent tubing from slipping while pumping

[CButterworth]

I use my chugger to move hot liquids from the boil kettle in my mash tun, etc.

Also, having just invested in a plate chiller, I want to combine pump and chiller to whirlpool the hot wort in the boil kettle while chilling it too.

I have been using silicon tubing, but sometimes when pumping, it wants to fly around and spray hot water everywhere. I have never had it happen, but I know that it wants to, and this is obviously not safe.

How do people prevent this from happening? Are there ways to jerry-rig a hook/holder for the tuning to ensure that it cannot move while pumping?

Also, what are people preferring to use to avoid getting trub into the plate chiller?

Thanks,
Charlie

 

[mirthfuldragon]

My hoses all have camlock fittings on them, and my boil kettle has a whirlpool arm fitting, which is a permanent if pricey solution. The camplock "in" connection for the whirlpool fitting is at the top of my keggle, above the water line, and then has a 90 degree elbow going down through a straight tube which ends in a 90 degree bend.

I also brew in my garage, so there are always a dozen or so spring clamps handy to hold something in place.

 

[LarMoeCur]

Camlock or QD is the best fix. I've seen a pair of vise-grips used to hold a whirlpool tube not the best fix. A circle clamp works also and is cheap.

When I used my counter-flow chiller, I used a hop stopper to limit the hop matter. I've sense switch back to my immersion chiller with a whirlpool arm. So, I made an adjustable side tube to prevent hop matter from entering my fermenters. No reason to whirlpool a big pile of hop matter right on top of the hop screen meant to stop the hops. I soldered up a "U" with two 90 degree elbows. I put the "U" into a 1/2" male tread I then tapped the fitting area with a hammer to tighten up the fit but did not solder it. So it can rotate it or move closer or further from the kettle wall as needed. I then start my boil with the "U" at the 12 o'clock position with a pretty large gap between the kettle wall. When whirlpooling and chilling is complete, I let it rest from at least 30 minutes. When I drain to my fermenter I use a sanitized spoon to move the "U" down and closer to the kettle wall. You can see the trub in the kettle and watch what is getting pulled into the tube and adjust as necessary. I get almost zero trub in my fermenter. The wort is really clear with very little cold break or hop matter in it.

 

[Gravity]

I use quick disconnects, the male parts are on the ball valves of the HLT, BK and MT along with the sparge arm and whirl pool port and chugger pumps. The female parts are on the silicone tubing. I tighten them with hose clamps and never once had a problem.

I use my pumps to transfer from HLT to MT, then MT to BK. I also use my pumps to recirculate(sparge) and whirlpool