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Pre-milled grain?

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dnr

Up your IBU!
Joined
Mar 28, 2020
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Location
CT
Ive only brewed with LME so far, but wanna get into grain.
I'm curious if I need a grain Mill or can you buy it already milled?
If that's even worth it at that point and the efficiency/cost versus using extract.
Thank for the help in advance.
 
Most brew shops mill fairly coarsely to prevent "stuck sparges." A 0.045-0.050" gap seems to be some standard there.
Maybe good for micro breweries and 3-vessel fly-sparge homebrewers. But the opposite of what you want for BIAB, which is rather fine for quicker and better extraction.

Only one way to find out what your shop does... Some will mill finer upon asking, some even do a special "BIAB crush."
For example, MoreBeer has been pathetic with their crush lately. No customization either with the bigger outfits.

There are threads and pictures posted of what a good crush looks like, also for BIAB.
Some shops will mill it twice, but it's still not anywhere as good as running once at the correct gap. (~0.025") little thinner than a regular credit card (~0.034").

The bigger problem with a too wide a gap is when you include small kernel grain, such as wheat or rye. There can be a severe lack of the wheat or rye contribution in the resulting beer.

You can make up the difference in extraction due to a coarse grist by adding a pound (or 2) of extra base malt and chalk up the loss.
Or mill your own as finely as you want. If you brew a lot, buying (base) grain by the sack instead of pounds, will save you over the long run.

A $25 Corona-knock off corn mill is as cheap as it gets and works well when adjusted for the fineness you want. If you're on a budget or don't brew as much this may well be your best ticket. The bag in BIAB is very fine and a good filter; the crush is not critical for that to work well.

A 2-roller mill will run $100-160. Or more. You can sometimes find used ones.

Power milling:
You could use a drill for either, as the hand crank becomes old fast.
Corona type mills are low demanding, pretty much any drill will do the job. Higher speeds are no issue.

For 2- or 3-roller mills, many drills won't "like" the mill-load presented, they either run the mill too fast, or groan heavily at lower speeds. A $$$ (DeWalt) portable drill may even get damaged by the heavy load and torque required.

A $60 (or less with the right coupon) Harbor Freight Heavy Duty Low Speed drill fills the ticket nicely. This is their current model, 0-600 rpm. Very high torque, it can probably break your wrist if you don't let go if it binds up!
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-Heavy-Duty-Low-Speed-Spade-Handle-DrillMixer-56179.html

Look around to see how deep the rabbit hole goes... there are some real beauties out there. Mine is not one of them, but is pragmatic.

For inspiration
My Monster Mill (MM2) with the older model HF Heavy Duty Low Speed drill:
Mounted-Monster-Mill-MM2_500.jpg
 
With all grain (either BIAB or multiple vessel) you can brew any beer you want. You're much more limited with extract brews due to ingredient limitations. For example you cannot brew a true Witbier from extract, as it requires 50% or more raw (or flaked) wheat.
Partial mash is a very decent hybrid process, but most migrate to all grain at some point.

When going all grain you need to be able to do full boils. A more powerful heating source is usually required. There is someone here who brews 10 gallon batches on his gas stove...

Depending on batch size, you will need a large kettle for all grain and even larger for BIAB as it has to hold the bag volume too. By doing a dunk sparge with the bag you can get away with a somewhat smaller kettle if it comes to that. But a 10 gallon kettle is no luxury for 5-6 gallon batches.

My kettle is 8 gallons and it's a bit tight. I top up the kettle with some held back 3rd runnings, using a converted cooler as mash tun.
 
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For about a decade before moving on to all grain, I did partial mashes in a 16qt pot. I mashed 6 lb of bagged grain in the pot, holding the temperature in the oven. Pulled the bag, then moved on to adding LME/DME for the stove top 2.5G boil and eventually tossing into a 6.5G bucket with added water to make a 5G batch. It was a fairly efficient method. I always purchased pre-milled grain. It worked fine for my purposes of adding some grain character and interest to my batches. Pre-milled grain suffers from somewhat lower extraction due to reasons already discussed, but it is still grain and works fine. The fact that it has been ground a few weeks before use is a non issue. The jist of it is that you don't really need to mill your own grain, but if you stick with the hobby and move on to all grain brewing you will most likely purchase a mill. And a burner and a larger pot. And larger and larger mash tuns. And spend hours on brewing because it is very time intensive. But there is no question all grain can result in superior beers. I'm finishing up my last batch made with LME, I occasionally do one to save time, but it will most likely be the last time I use it.
 
I would look into my local Brew shop, but none are close or currently open.

They're all shut down in CT due to quarantine. And the closest one is over 30 minutes from me, so when life goes back to normal, half my cook day would be spent in the Brew shop. I only had one day off.
I appreciate the help. I figured since I'm definitely not going back to work until after May 20 (according to CT law) I'd look into better use of my time. I'll invest in milling equipment.

My wife's birthday is tomorrow. Maybe I can pretend it's a gift for her.
 
My wife's birthday is tomorrow. Maybe I can pretend it's a gift for her.
:off:
Back to the 70s.
So one of my aunts buys this really expense dress. Thinking she'll justify it to her husband by claiming her dad bought it for her upcoming birthday, a good month or so away. Won't you believe it, her dad dies a few weeks later...

She survived, but we never heard the cock'n bull story she may have cooked up. ;)
 
It was 3 lbs of Newport hops. 10.9 alpha acid. Big sale. It's still cheap as hell, but went up to $4.99/8oz.

I did a 5.5 gallon brew tonight.
6lb Pilsen LME, 1.5oz Newport hop pellets @60 min, .5oz same @15 min.

First boil over. But I dealt with it and added some sugar to help with the OG.
Smells amazing
 
yep.
but, do you hand crank it or drill crank?
I hand cranked for 5 gallon ~5% batches but after I did a big beer......i motorized.

My kegs are 3 G and 5 G, so the biggest batch I ever do is 8 G. I hand crank for that amount. The grain bill is almost always less than 20 pounds.
 
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