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Jooofro

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Jan 4, 2015
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Hi everyone, new to the site, first post.

My wife got for me a 1 gallon kit for X-mas and we ran it tonight. When I was transferring the wert from the pot to the fermenting jug I filtered it through a fine mesh hops bag. In doing so I noticed that I pulled out a ton of green sediment, which I presume was the majority of the hops.

So my question is how bad did I mess it up?

Thanks in advance.
 
Ruined. Can't make beer without hops!! Dump it out.



Don't dump it out, its fine, you extracted everythign you needed fromt he hops during the boil. As long as you sanitized the bag and the fermenter you're fine. If you didn't, you're probably still fine, but sanitize better next time.
 
No worries, here. Welcome to the community. You didn't mess anything up by filter out the hop material. Many people choose to filter out this material in order to avoid a grassy flavor in their beers. I try to filter it out in order to reduce the amount of trub material in the bottom of my fermentor. Just remember, good sanitation technique and temperature are crucial to the production of good beer post boil. Good luck.
 
Oh absolutely. This was after the boil and I made sure to sanitize everything, over and over to make sure it was good. :mug:
 
So you filtered out the hops from your boil before putting into the fermenting container?

Just wanted to be clear because that is EXACTLY WHAT YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO DO :) You don't want to transfer hops from the boil into the fermenter, you didn't mess up anything! :ban: You can put unboiled hops in to the fermenter if you are interested in dry hopping, but I wouldn't worry about that for your first beer unless you're trying to brew an IPA.

Cheers :mug:
 
relax, bruva. a bit of hops matter in primary will not hurt a thing. I always strain my wort from kettle to primary whether it's an IPA or Wee Heavy. but it's not necessary, just personal preference. I've had other peoples home brews they don't strain out hops into primary and they tasted great.
 
Cool, cheers guys. Next step, convincing the wife to let me set up a rig to make bigger batches. :D

I'll second that about going down the rabbit hole.

For me it was my taste for the really expensive beers that opened my rabbit hole up. Why pay $16+ for a four-pack when I can pay $30 for ingredients and make 12+ of those four-packs and have total control over the beer? Also, the process and the art of brewing is very appealing to me.
 
if you have the hops, dry hop it. it's as easy as just tossing in the hops once it's reached 90% of its estimated Final Gravity. no need to rack to a secondary or anything. i usually leave it for another 5-7 days after i put the hops in, then bottle. it will add the final dimension to your beer to make you love it even more.
 
+1 for dry hopping your IPA. Especially if you feel you have a solid grasp on sanitation. Sanitize the bags the hops came in prior to opening them and your scissors used for opening the bags.
Wait until all visible signs of fermentation have ceased then wait another four or five days before carefully opening the fermentation chamber to add the dry hops (I usually add two ounces of aroma hops for five gallons but to each their own). Just re-sanitize anything you pulled off the fermenter and replace as needed to reseal.
I would then suggest a 5-7 day dry hop followed by a 4-5 day cold crash to settle everything to the bottom of the fermentation chamber prior to transferring to the bottling bucket. The cold crash will ensure you have nice clear beer for bottling considering you don't get greedy when transferring and suck up a bunch of trub from the bottom of the fermentation chamber into your bottling bucket.
Cold crash at 38-42 degrees at a minimum and all the way down to 32 if possible. Two days ramping down and three days good cold crash works good for me.
Additionally, I normally bottle condition for a month if I cold crash before opening bottles because carbonation can take a little longer.
Have fun.
 

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