PID Controlled Induction Plate

[enormous13]

Hey Everyone!

I know that this topic has been discussed over the past few years, and from what I found, it seemed like there isn't an "easy" way to accomplish getting an induction plate to run on a controller, like a PID or an EZboil. I had read in one thread here (that I can't find again now) that a user claimed he'd figured it out no problem, but when asked to do a write up, he kind of brushed it off.

Anyways, has there been any more developments recently with this method of heating a kettle? I feel like a controlled induction plate could be a big step, and maybe even a replacement for in-kettle elements. With benefits like easy/zero kettle installation, much less danger of scorching, take advantage of more vertical kettle space, etc., etc.

 

[golfindia]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/induction-hack-add-an-external-probe.518213/

 

[TANSTAAFB]

https://www.kitchen-monkey.com/prod...Oh7GHywqxuR2ckgnrEy-FYRGLJzQ8KQBoCxBsQAvD_BwE

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Just read everything @golfindia posted and found the 208V Adcraft manual control induction cooktop for $205 w/ free shipping! That goes on the upgrade list!

 

[Owly055]

Just read everything @golfindia posted and found the 208V Adcraft manual control induction cooktop for $205 w/ free shipping! That goes on the upgrade list!

I'm not at all sure a 208V induction cooktop will run on the typical 240 volt household power that most folks call "220".

 

[Owly055]

It should not be a real challenge to set up an external circuit with two resistors to mimic high and low resistance of the thermister for an arbitrary temperature, and use a relay driven by an external temp controller such as the STC 1000 or the Inkbird to drive the relay. Assuming you use only one setting on your hotplate..... say the default, as on my "Costco Special" Tramontina 6 bars of 320F, it ought to work fine. On the Tramontina, I'd glue covers over all the settings controls so it wouldn't be possible to use anything but the default. In that way your thermocouple would be the sensor, and your relay circuit would turn the unit on and off. I'd love to have an in pot circulator built similar to the Annova Sous Vide, without the internal heating element, but with the thermocouple attached. It would be designed specifically to circulate wort including the grain inside the bag (I do BIAB only). Drawing from near the surface, and discharging downward, creating a torroidal flow. The control box, with the STC 1000 and relay & resistor setup would be more or less attached to the induction unit, with a standard thermocouple spade plug, and a 120 volt plug mounted right in the box, to plug the circulator / temp controller to. Better yet a din connector with power and sensing.

H.W.

 

[TANSTAAFB]

I'm not at all sure a 208V induction cooktop will run on the typical 240 volt household power that most folks call "220".

Damn, you're right. 208v is 3-phase & 220/240v is single phase. Apparently 208v 3-phase is standard in commercial buildings. Can get a phase converter but tacking on at least a couple bills. Back to the drawing board

 

[enormous13]

Damn, you're right. 208v is 3-phase & 220/240v is single phase. Apparently 208v 3-phase is standard in commercial buildings. Can get a phase converter but tacking on at least a couple bills. Back to the drawing board

Yeah, unless it’s rated 208-240v or something, which I didn’t find any specs on in their product listing. I’d imagine it’s probably not.

 

[TANSTAAFB]

I used to be a plumber, I'm electrical illiterate. Can someone break it down Barney style and explain the difference in how single 240 and 3 phase 208 works? And besides a phase converter, what would one have to do (or have available breaker box wise) to wire a 208v 3 phase receptacle?

 

[Owly055]

I don't think many delta wound transformers are used anymore.... I've never seen it anyway. In a delta wound transformer, the windings run from leg to leg, rather than from neutral to each leg as in a star winding. The result is that the neutral is a center tap between two legs, the third leg being called the "wild leg". With 480 three phase supplied by a star wound transformer or generator, the voltage between any leg and neutral will be 240, and that's where we get 240 single phase from. Voltage between any two legs will be 480, and that's where we get 480 single phase. With a delta system, the voltage between any two legs is 480, and the voltage from either of the two legs with the center tap between them is 240. The voltage from the third leg and the center tap will be 208.
I'm no electrician, but I've worked a LOT with three phase 480, and well as 240 three phase, including building numerous inverter systems, wiring things up, laying underground cable, working with generators, etc. I've never seen a delta system in real life.

That said, transformers exist to convert voltages. One is listed on Ebay a the moment that would solve the problem for only $ 135.00 for a 2 KVA transformer that would convert 240 to 208.... I think the hotplate in question draws more than that though. If you watch Ebay, that stuff comes up, and few people are interested. Using it is as simple as connecting the correct leads for your input and output, and they are well marked.

H.W.

 

[lschiavo]

I used to be a plumber, I'm electrical illiterate. Can someone break it down Barney style and explain the difference in how single 240 and 3 phase 208 works? And besides a phase converter, what would one have to do (or have available breaker box wise) to wire a 208v 3 phase receptacle?

It's not 3 phase. It uses only two legs but I do not see where it can be run on 240V. As mentioned above you would most likely need a 240/208 transformer at least 3kW.

 

[enormous13]

Well, that’s unfortunate about the 208v aspect. That only leaves the 120v/1,800 watt manual model.

Would that be capable of boiling volumes up to 6 gallons (I actually usually do 2.5 gallon batches, so 3-4 gallon pre-boil volume)?