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Picobrew Z

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Yes.

Picobrew is mailing me new gaskets. In the meantime, I fashioned a stand in gasket from a piece of small tubing. That fixed the problem.

In a nutshell, the missing gasket allowed an air leak. The intake pump wasn’t getting good suction and therefore could not pull enough liquid from the keg into the Z.

I have now learned that airtight seals are needed on each end. I had a problem previously where the grommet on the dip tube in the step filter got damaged (I think a mouse tried to eat it) and I couldn’t drain the step filter.

Follow up: I received a replacement for my lost gasket. I brewed this weekend. All is well.

Picobrew sent me two new gaskets and an extra drain tube grommet. One of mine was damaged. I still think a mouse took a bite out of piece.

My learning curve on the Z1 has taught me air and liquid tight seals are key to Z1 success.
 
before I do something I regret.... whats the largest amount of grains you all have used in your Z? I am looking at using 12.69 at the moment.
 
before I do something I regret.... whats the largest amount of grains you all have used in your Z? I am looking at using 12.69 at the moment.

I think you should try pouring that in the step filter dry and uncrushed to test. It shouldn’t fit.

I put 8 in mine and it was pretty full but there was definitely room for another pound. Nine is the max according to PicoBrew.
 
before I do something I regret.... whats the largest amount of grains you all have used in your Z? I am looking at using 12.69 at the moment.

If you go over the 9 pound max, unless you have no water in the keg, it will overflow. If you are running a batch for say less than 1.5g, it might not overflow. Just make sure you have a hose connected to the overflow hole.
 
Recirculating the coffee through the grounds? Honestly I think they were stretching for a way to make the Z seem more adaptable.

There shouldn't be that many steps as the process is the following (excluding obvious ones like put in step filter, turn machine on and measure water, etc):
1) grind coffee and put in grain bag
2) select coffee and input amount of water / grinds for the session
3) start session

The default "cold brew" session is a bit weird if you are used to cold brewing for 12-14hr at room temperature. Picobrew (and others online) claim that brewing at 120 degrees or less is also classified as cold brewing and thus can get "same taste and profile" in just 2-3 hours where you would otherwise be spending 12-14 at a lower temperature. I haven't done a side by side. If you were to create a longer brew session foam is definitely an issue. I had a foam monster take over my brewhouse doing a lower temperature coffee brew with recirculation for 6hr, instead I'd recommend the recirculate+pause method instead if you want to brew coffee longer at lower temperatures.

Whatever you do don't put coffee grounds straight into the step filter ALWAYS use the BIAB method as grinds get everywhere in the machine, inline filter, keg, etc. Basically treat the grind size as if you were doing "percolator" or even "french press" (both coarser grind sizes).
 
There shouldn't be that many steps as the process is the following (excluding obvious ones like put in step filter, turn machine on and measure water, etc):
1) grind coffee and put in grain bag
2) select coffee and input amount of water / grinds for the session
3) start session

The default "cold brew" session is a bit weird if you are used to cold brewing for 12-14hr at room temperature. Picobrew (and others online) claim that brewing at 120 degrees or less is also classified as cold brewing and thus can get "same taste and profile" in just 2-3 hours where you would otherwise be spending 12-14 at a lower temperature. I haven't done a side by side. If you were to create a longer brew session foam is definitely an issue. I had a foam monster take over my brewhouse doing a lower temperature coffee brew with recirculation for 6hr, instead I'd recommend the recirculate+pause method instead if you want to brew coffee longer at lower temperatures.

Whatever you do don't put coffee grounds straight into the step filter ALWAYS use the BIAB method as grinds get everywhere in the machine, inline filter, keg, etc. Basically treat the grind size as if you were doing "percolator" or even "french press" (both coarser grind sizes).
thanks. Hard pass here. Literally nothing easier than grinding coffee and going to bed. Presto cold brew. But I’m a pretty simple guy.
 
Who is using the PicoFerm? I tried it and it decided it was no longer configured after a couple days, and then the batteries (new) died before the ferment was complete. This was an ale and I wonder how many batteries I'd need for a lager.
 
Who is using the PicoFerm? I tried it and it decided it was no longer configured after a couple days, and then the batteries (new) died before the ferment was complete. This was an ale and I wonder how many batteries I'd need for a lager.

Speaking of the PicoFerm - Does the data get exposed to other apps/sites or is it locked to just picobrew.com?
 
Speaking of the PicoFerm - Does the data get exposed to other apps/sites or is it locked to just picobrew.com?
It appears to be only associated with your account. I guess if your LAN security isn't too good, it might get exposed. Not sure if it uses any SSL/TLS kind of communication - I doubt it.
 
It appears to be only associated with your account. I guess if your LAN security isn't too good, it might get exposed. Not sure if it uses any SSL/TLS kind of communication - I doubt it.
I meant it in a good way (as in - can I pick it up and use it in Fermentrack) but it sounds like the point still stands - the data is locked to their website. :(
 
Who is using the PicoFerm? I tried it and it decided it was no longer configured after a couple days, and then the batteries (new) died before the ferment was complete. This was an ale and I wonder how many batteries I'd need for a lager.
I am using rechargeable batteries that were recommended on PicoBrew forum and if freshly charged have no issue with them lasting thru fermentation. Others on PicoBrew forum suggested using a power supply.
 
Figured I'd post here too.

I'm selling my Z1 if anyone's interested or knows anyone looking for one.
I've done 4 brews on it - works flawlessly, no issues since day one. I've stopped brewing for the time being and will
eventually be scaling up to 10-15 gallons in the future. Everything is in perfect condition - Z1, step filter, corny keg, hoses, & all accessories. I have the original shipping boxes too. Hoping to get around $1,600 + shipping but I'll entertain any reasonable offers.
 
2 questions for you all:

Is anyone using Rice Hulls in there Z brews?

For items like sugar and lactose. where are you adding them? Into the Adjuncts (hop cages) or directly in the grain bed? I put it in an empty hop cage last brew.
 
2 questions for you all:

Is anyone using Rice Hulls in there Z brews?

For items like sugar and lactose. where are you adding them? Into the Adjuncts (hop cages) or directly in the grain bed? I put it in an empty hop cage last brew.

I have not used any hulls in my brews so far. I have not had any issues with the grain bed draining.

As for additives like sugars, etc..., I add directly to the keg during the boil cycle. This keeps it out of the grain bed and allows it to go through the boil cycle.
 
Thanks, I thought about doing that but didn't want to remove the foam trap. In hindsight I had no issue with foam during the boil but dear lord did I have a mess when I went to chill (nonstop foam).
 
Yeah there have been several have issues with the chill cycle foaming up like crazy. I let mine sit in the keg overnight and chill. Have had no issues with this process.
 
2 questions for you all:

Is anyone using Rice Hulls in there Z brews?

For items like sugar and lactose. where are you adding them? Into the Adjuncts (hop cages) or directly in the grain bed? I put it in an empty hop cage last brew.
I used rice hulls for a 95% wheat beer. I used 0.33 lbs rice hulls with 6.6 lbs wheat malt + 0.36 lbs C40. The brew session went great and the beer was delicious.
 
I use a JaDeD Corny Pillar and love it. I manually edit every recipe to replace the last steps to add a pause 5 mins before finish to stick the pillar in to sanitize, and I’m good to go.

Good to know! Think I’m going to add that one to the Christmas list.
 
I use a JaDeD Corny Pillar and love it. I manually edit every recipe to replace the last steps to add a pause 5 mins before finish to stick the pillar in to sanitize, and I’m good to go.

I also have the corny pillar. It is awesome. There is foam in the keg when you open it up but using the pillar helps it not foam any more.

I don’t modify the recipe. After the boil the Z pauses and tells you to connect the your chiller. I exit out of the recipe then and chill. If you have a hop stand you would have to wait until after that to exit out of the recipe.
 
About to push a plate chiller into play for chilling. Should I be worried about foaming up? Not sure why that would happen.
 
I also have the corny pillar. It is awesome. There is foam in the keg when you open it up but using the pillar helps it not foam any more.

I don’t modify the recipe. After the boil the Z pauses and tells you to connect the your chiller. I exit out of the recipe then and chill. If you have a hop stand you would have to wait until after that to exit out of the recipe.
I usually throw the pillar in with 15 minutes left to sterilize it.
 
Good news, beer came out great! Bad news, got some grain floaties in the glass. Anyone else had this issue and troubleshooted?
 
Good news, beer came out great! Bad news, got some grain floaties in the glass. Anyone else had this issue and troubleshooted?
Hmmm. It has to get out of the screens of the step filter, not get sent to th in-line screen, pass through a couple sets of ball locks and then a tap. Can’t say I have.
 

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