Picobrew Z

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Regarding spare step filters, I see very little discussion about cracking like with the Zymatic. I am wondering whether a spare step filter is really needed for the Z.

Is my perception correct? Are cracks relatively rare on the Z series?
 
I've heard of 2 or 3 total in last year. If PB's word is true they are more "durable material and mold" than the prior Zymatic. They even envisioned modifying them for use with the Zymatic (previously mentioned here with pdf of process and packaging).
 
My Step filter is starting to show signs of cracking. It might of had a rough shipping experience to start with or it's because I brew to keep 3 kegs fermenting at all times so my Z gets used a lot.
 
One of my two Zs is not circulating and then drop a Code 6 for overheating. Is there a way to get the system primed or diagnosed or at least some solution to the problem?
 
One of my two Zs is not circulating and then drop a Code 6 for overheating. Is there a way to get the system primed or diagnosed or at least some solution to the problem?
I was able to prime the system using the FAQs, but I continue to get Code 6. I'm not finding any leak source and the flow is good. The flow is going really good and then there will be a simultaneous Code 6, alarm and stop of flow.
 
I was able to prime the system using the FAQs, but I continue to get Code 6. I'm not finding any leak source and the flow is good. The flow is going really good and then there will be a simultaneous Code 6, alarm and stop of flow.
It appears that when the hex temp gets 30F above wort, it trips the error. I tried the 'New Clean Beta V6' to see if that would get through a clean cycle, but it constantly tripped the code 6.
 
I discovered that I need a specific part but don't know how to find out a source for it. This is the plastic part in the Z that connects to the pickup tube. There is some sensor inside this part. Photo attached. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Unfortunately, my Z decided to go dark during the rinse cycle after my third brewing session. Dark means the display stays off and it doesn't respond to any inputs.
A good and capable friend hooked his laptop up to the serial port of the main micro controller, the ESP32, yielding the following result:

-----
rst:0xc (SW_CPU_RESET),boot:0x13 (SPI_FAST_FLASH_BOOT)
configsip: 0, SPIWP:0xee
clk_drv:0x00,q_drv:0x00,d_drv:0x00,cs0_drv:0x00,hd_drv:0x00,wp_drv:0x00
mode:\DIO, clock div:1
load:0x3fff0018,len:4
load:0x3fff001c,len:1100
load:0x40078000,len:10088
load:0x40080400,len:6380
entry 0x400806a4

DBG ***********************************************************************
DBG * ZSeries *
DBG ***********************************************************************
[D>][ 0.06][CORE][Core.h:1321] setup BEGIN 0
[D_][ 0.07][CORE][Core.h:264] screenPower() True
[I_][ 0.07][SYST][System.h:291] scan()
[D>][ 0.07][I2C][System.h:91] scan BEGIN 0
[IV][ 0.09][I2C] Name = I2CA
[IV][ 0.09][I2C] Expected = 0x19 0x34 0x76
[IV][ 0.09][I2C] Found = 0x19 0x34 0x76
[IV][ 0.09][I2C] Missing =
[IV][ 0.09][I2C] hasError = False
[D<][ 0.10][I2C][System.h:91] scan END 24
[D>][ 0.10][I2C][System.h:91] scan BEGIN 0
[IV][ 0.12][I2C] Name = I2CB
[IV][ 0.12][I2C] Expected = 0x40
[IV][ 0.12][I2C] Found =
[IV][ 0.12][I2C] Missing = 0x40
[IV][ 0.12][I2C] hasError = True
[D<][ 0.12][I2C][System.h:91] scan END 19
[31m[E_][ 0.12][SYSST][SystemState.h:104] setError I2CB [0m
[D>][ 0.13][BSL][Msp.h:666] _setupMsp BEGIN 0
[IV][ 0.15][MSPA] CRC_result = 24539
----

He managed to trace this further. A second micro controller, a Texas Instruments MSP430G2553 is hooked up to the I2CB, and is the device that fails to probe and stops the boot.

As customer service didn't (and can't) respond further, has anybody seen a similar error? Can you dump the TI microcontroller's firmware or is it locked? If you can dump it, our plan would be to buy a new TI and flash it with the dumped image.
Alternatively, does anybody know if the Z firmware contains the firmware for the second micro controller, too?

Thank you & Cheers,
Sheep2045

I'm the friend that analysed the error and now the proud new owner of this wreck. ^^
To narrow down if the MSP430 or the Pin on the ESP32 is broken, I connected an Arduino to the I2Cb lines that listens on i2c slave 0x40 and ... the Z boots. So the MSP430 is indeed the problem.

I downloaded the Z firmware from the chiefwigms/picobrew_pico github repo and parsed through it with "strings".
There are some hints that the ESP32 can indeed write the firmware of the MSP430:

----
fupdate
Sends TEST_BRICK_APP command to MSP
TEST_BRICK_APP
Sends TEST_BRICK_ISR command to MSP
TEST_BRICK_ISR
Sends TEST_ERROR_SET_FIRST command to MSP
TEST_ERROR_SET_FIRST
Sends TEST_ERROR_SET_LAST command to MSP
TEST_ERROR_SET_LAST
Sets MSP error state (TEST ONLY)
seterror
Test ESP32 can get MSP app version
test av
Test ESP32 can get MSP to switch between boot and app
test switch
Test ESP32 can update the MSP app
test update
----

Does anyone know how the get the ESP32 to initiate the MSP flash? The service mode is sadly still not reachable as the system is quite confused about the Arduino posing as MSP.
 
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I worked on this some more:
The MSP430 is fine, but it seems the flash is corrupted.

I used a TI debugging tool to download the flash content and disassembled it. The controller is stuck in a loop due to a jump into empty flash. I guess this should not happen and that a bit flip has occured. Its really hard to fix this without knowing how it is supposed to look or work. -_-

So what I really need now is:
- a dump of the MSP430 flash, from 0xC000 to 0xFFFF, from a working example
- someone with a working Z who is willing to help me, I would supply the hardware for it
- someone who can sell me a spare Z, Pro or C Display/PCB part

Anyone? 😣
 
I had a breakthrough last night and the system works again! :cool: 😄

My theory is that the system had a power problem right as the ESP wrote a new "App" (PB term) on the MSP. This set the MSP in an undefined condition, as it was expecting to run some code on memory addresses that were blank. But as there was some code at some key addresses in the info flash, it did not go into failback mode and initialised I2C. So everything was stuck.

Just flashing over the original firmware would have helped.
But as that was unavailable I had to modify the firmware hex (thanks Picobrew for not burning the jtag fuses) so that the MSP initialised I2C, let the ESP flash an App to the MSP, and then revert my changes to the firmware so the normal logic applied again.

I will upload the firmware here if anybody runs into the same problem or wants to do a firmware analysis.

So, attached is the MSP430 firmware of a Picobrew Z in Intel Hex format, Main Code memory (0xC000-0xFFFF) and Information memory (0x1000-0x10FF) to be exact. This can be used to flash a replacement MSP430 or fix a corrupted flash situation.
The firmware will only work on a Z as S/Pro and C have a different base firmware according to someone who should know.

How to flash:
Disclaimer: This worked for me and fixed a situation were the system did not start due to log message "i2cb: 0x40 missing".
The Information is provided without warranty, you yourself are responsible if things break. :)

To flash you need TI hardware that supports the MSP430G2553 over SBW. The cheapest option at time of writing is the MSP-EXP430G2 Launchpad kit (~$20).
The only software you will need is "mspdebug".

Connect "Reset", "Test", and "GND" from the programmer pins to the 2x3 pin header beside the MSP430.
Pinout:
---To MSP---
| TX | NC |
-------------
| TEST| RST |
-------------
| GND | RX |
-------------

connect via:
mspdebug rf2500

flash via:
prog <filename>
 

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Wow! Congratulations Dr. Frankenstein, your Z has risen from the dead. Good to have the firmware uploaded and a photo of how to connect the MSP-EXP430G2. Thanks for sharing, even though you didn't appear to receive the assistance you were seeking.
 
I have seen several recent reports of burst hoses from the distribution valve on the Z. Virtually everyone has fixed it by replacing the valve. It would be great to understand the underlying cause to avoid it altogether. It would seem likely that it's something related to a blockage or a kink in a hose. Any ideas?

The next issue to be resolved is a method for replacing a burst hose. While I have a couple valves as backups, I would much prefer to repair them, as the supply of valves certainly isn't infinite. Has anyone done this, apart from splicing in a new section? I'd like to figure out how to disassemble the valve enough to replace the entire hose.
 
Have you been wanting to use BrewCrafter, but have lost your password and/or never signed up before 6 months ago?

Well look no further as I've deployed a dev pipeline with my fixes and other updates proposed 4 months ago to be part of the official beta crafter known as BrewCrafter. This new version (would need to sign up again and no data was ported) is located at crafter.pilotbatchbrewing.com feel free to give this "alpha/beta preview" a spin. No clue when these new features (PicoFree / PicoPak recipe, newly fixed email integration and other features I will be working on to make our new brewing experiences more seamless) will get merged into the "official beta crafter" experience if ever.
 
I have added a previously unused Z2 to complement my Z1. I tried my first brew on it a week ago and as soon as it got to the boil, I got the dreaded Code 6 Overheat error. I assumed that it was that the tube from the pinch valve to adjunct #1 was kinked. Well, today I pulled off the cover and gently pulled and massaged the tubing from the pinch valve as I had seen suggested, but it has done nothing. I will note that when I first selected an action from the menu after powering up the machine, there was a horrible squealing sound that sounded like something that was spinning freely that should have been driving something. At first I thought it was the fan, but it wasn't. After maybe 15 seconds, the noise had stopped.

Now, the overheat error is thrown almost immediately after heating of any sort is started.

I believe that no gylcol (or is it just water???) flowing through the hex. It's temperature will only drop with time. It doesn't seem to be exchanging temperatures with the water flowing through the wort side of the hex. Unfortunately, there's no way to tell if the coolant is flowing due to the opaque tubing.

It's not at all clear to me where one would ideally top up the water/glycol. There's what seems to be a filter canister off a tee, but it appears upside down, if it was intended for refilling the glycol, since the "cap" is at the bas. There's a tube with a white plastic disconnect above it, but the other end leads to a hole in the ceiling above the step filter.

Is there a known process for topping off the Z's glycol (...or is it water)? It almost seems to me that it should be distilled water in either case, unless the glycol/water has leaked out rather than evaporated.

Why does that glycol/water line have a path to the ceiling above the step filter? Steam vent, perhaps?

Any way to test the glycol pump?
 
I received some help from Justin Hart. The cause of the error code was too little water in the HEX loop. It seems there may be something else that is causing that condition as I encountered the same error when testing full recipe. The HEX loop water is either leaking out or boiling off. I did notice a small amount of water had pooled between the HEX and the water pump. I guess I'll need to watch during my next test run to see if there's an obvious leak.
 
It turns out that the leak was from a crack in the Picobrew-modified inline strainer which acts as a reservoir for the HEX loop and to provide a means of escape for steam. Waiting for a part right now. The OEM part is available through VacMotion.
 
It turns out that the leak was from a crack in the Picobrew-modified inline strainer which acts as a reservoir for the HEX loop and to provide a means of escape for steam. Waiting for a part right now. The OEM part is available through VacMotion.

By the way this is a very common part. Several vendors on eBay and amazon have these listed. Personally I've been partially wanting this part to be switched out for a clear one (same for the inline filter on the external hoses).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beer-Inlin...rewing-150-100-Mesh-Filtering-G-/224518700266
https://amzn.to/36j7HKg
I also have a drawer of the external filter housing that was available in the auctions.
 
By the way this is a very common part. Several vendors on eBay and amazon have these listed. Personally I've been partially wanting this part to be switched out for a clear one (same for the inline filter on the external hoses).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Beer-Inlin...rewing-150-100-Mesh-Filtering-G-/224518700266
https://amzn.to/36j7HKg
I also have a drawer of the external filter housing that was available in the auctions.
Thanks Trevor. I didn't want to share the information until I was certain that it was correct, but per Justin Hart's suggestion via Facebook, I actually ordered a strainer on Amazon, which was the least expensive option. Since it was only the section with the barbs that I needed, the bowl material was unimportant to me. Justin gave me great advice. It did fit perfectly and my Z1 is back in business. He warned that while there is no problem using the clear bowls on the external filter, they would melt if used in the HEX loop. I'm not sure why that would be, since I expect that the temperatures would be very similar, but Justin has been right about everything else, so I'm not going to doubt him here.

I made one other modification at Justin's suggestion. I flipped the heat exchanger on its edge with the wort ports on the bottom. He believes that this will help to better drain the system of wort, preventing beer stone buildup. I supported the heat exchanger with a piece of angle aluminum screwed into two of the four fittings previously occupied by the HEX clamp screws. I used nylon ties to secure the heat exchanger to this little bridge. I used a removable clamp for one of the water/glycol connections in order to make future top-ups easier.

By the way, you may notice a big gob of red-orange silicone on top of the aforementioned strainer. In my attempts to correct the leak in the strainer, I had tightened the cap on the housing. This resulted in the barb on the top turning 45 degrees, forcing me to reposition it. Picobrew had used a clear silicone, which I needed to remove to reposition the barb. So, I used some red, food-safe, high temperature RTV silicone to re-seal it.

I am unsure whether this modification will be possible on the models with the large boiler. There's not a lot of extra room for rerouting hoses in those. One of my three Zs has the large boiler. I think I'll just be extra careful to run cleaning cycles after every batch.

PXL_20210707_223110450.jpg
 
Turns out that the second Z in my Z2 suffered the same fate. I suspect that they were stored in an unheated space here in northern Illinois and that the water in the hex loop froze. Hopefully the other components weren't damaged, like the coolant pump, boiler, and heat exchanger.
 
Why do you think you have a faulty temperature sensor?
So my Z started showing strange temperature data when heating up and I suspected that I had low coolant in the hex loop. I saw a post somewhere about tipping the machine to one side and it made sense to me that if the coolant was low (and partially uncovering the temp probe?) that tipping the machine would confirm this. Well, I tipped the machine both ways to observe how it affected the temp behavior and when I went one way (uncovering the temp probe), it faulted immediately and I haven't been able to run a session since. I was thinking I overheated the temperature sensor when uncovering it while heating, but maybe it was the thermal fuse?

What is the expected behavior with a failing/faulted thermal fuse? Here is what I was observing prior....hex loop heating up much faster and not tracking well with the wort temp.
1648310693331.png
 
I was listening to the most recent Brülosophy podcast and they were tasting APAs made as part of the AvgBrü project. Marshall, in particular, loved a beer submitted by @Trevor Mack. Is that "our" Trevor Mack? If so, did you brew the beer with Picobrew gear? Congratulations on the great feedback, Trevor!
 
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I was listening to the most recent Brülosophy podcast and they were tasting APAs made as part of the AvgBrü project. Marshall, in particular, loved a beer submitted by @Trevor Mack. Is that "our" Trevor Mack? If so, did you brew the beer with Picobrew gear? Congratulations one the great feedback, Trevor!
It sure is and yes this and all my beers these days are exclusively brewed on my Picobrew Z3 system.

I've shared the recipe well before the feedback cause it was that good. It is up on BrewCrafter, Average Bru - American Pale

I was going for a "top of the scale" APA which is why Marshall was stating it is more fit for an IPA... Who likes middle of the road anyways? Was seeking a bit more hop flavor without a lot of bitterness/bite and I also wanted to stretch the limits of the style while staying within the BJCP guidelines and that is exactly what I accomplished.

Highly recommend brewing it and I'm likely to brew more of it with different late addition hop combinations myself.
 
If you haven't heard yet. I have secured ~150 luerlock sample ports and am offering them up for the community (all profits after fulfillment will be donated to a local charity out in the Boston / New England region).

Should be self explanatory, so here just go to the source and order at Luerlock Sample Port

If you have any questions feel free to reach out directly.
 
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Thanks Trevor. I didn't want to share the information until I was certain that it was correct, but per Justin Hart's suggestion via Facebook, I actually ordered a strainer on Amazon, which was the least expensive option. Since it was only the section with the barbs that I needed, the bowl material was unimportant to me. Justin gave me great advice. It did fit perfectly and my Z1 is back in business. He warned that while there is no problem using the clear bowls on the external filter, they would melt if used in the HEX loop. I'm not sure why that would be, since I expect that the temperatures would be very similar, but Justin has been right about everything else, so I'm not going to doubt him here.

I made one other modification at Justin's suggestion. I flipped the heat exchanger on its edge with the wort ports on the bottom. He believes that this will help to better drain the system of wort, preventing beer stone buildup. I supported the heat exchanger with a piece of angle aluminum screwed into two of the four fittings previously occupied by the HEX clamp screws. I used nylon ties to secure the heat exchanger to this little bridge. I used a removable clamp for one of the water/glycol connections in order to make future top-ups easier.

By the way, you may notice a big gob of red-orange silicone on top of the aforementioned strainer. In my attempts to correct the leak in the strainer, I had tightened the cap on the housing. This resulted in the barb on the top turning 45 degrees, forcing me to reposition it. Picobrew had used a clear silicone, which I needed to remove to reposition the barb. So, I used some red, food-safe, high temperature RTV silicone to re-seal it.

I am unsure whether this modification will be possible on the models with the large boiler. There's not a lot of extra room for rerouting hoses in those. One of my three Zs has the large boiler. I think I'll just be extra careful to run cleaning cycles after every batch.

View attachment 734778

Would you be willing to share more details on topping off the glycol on the Zs? Both of my Zs are doing the same as my Zymatic did as the glycol evaporated. It will brew with room-temperature water, but water coming out of the tap especially this time of the year is too cold and it will error. I can keep resuming until it gets up to temperature and it will finish, but it will just get worse.
 
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Would you be willing to share more details on topping off the glycol on the Zs? Both of my Zs are doing the same as my Zymatic did as the glycol evaporated. It will brew with room-temperature water, but water coming out of the tap especially this time of the year is too cold and it will error. I can keep resuming until it gets up to temperature and it will finish, but it will just get worse.
Do the Z series use glycol?
 
I don't know. I'm trying to figure out what causes error 6 when I use cold water
You have air in the lines. You don't need glycol if your machine is inside. They went with glycol because the water froze in shipping to cold climate locations. There is a reservoir on the right side near the front, top hose goes to the back with a check valve connection. Bottom hose goes to small pump then heater. Pull the clip on the check valve to take apart. Use a syringe and fill with water. Push the water in hard. Water and air will come out, so be prepared. You need to push in water a bunch of times to get all the air out. There will be air in everything so it takes more than three pushes. I have two Z's and have filled both with water and I am going on two years with no problems. Both machines are inside. (Now I will have problems!)
 
You have air in the lines. You don't need glycol if your machine is inside. They went with glycol because the water froze in shipping to cold climate locations. There is a reservoir on the right side near the front, top hose goes to the back with a check valve connection. Bottom hose goes to small pump then heater. Pull the clip on the check valve to take apart. Use a syringe and fill with water. Push the water in hard. Water and air will come out, so be prepared. You need to push in water a bunch of times to get all the air out. There will be air in everything so it takes more than three pushes. I have two Z's and have filled both with water and I am going on two years with no problems. Both machines are inside. (Now I will have problems!)
Thanks!

Just to be clear, this is where you are referring? Can I not just use the connector to push it through?
 

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I had tried everything except replacing the sensor. I have found a solution that is working for me to alleviate the 'code 6'. I have installed a 15A dimmer into the circuit. I just throttled back the current going to heat the glycol. I am using these two parts (HT02.19.194.00 & HT05.30.042.00) from partstown.com. I have set the current flow so that the difference between the wort and hex is around 21F. I can refine that difference by just turning the knob. Not a cheap solution at $250 per machine, but I have verified that it works. I don't know if the current reduction will be hard on the glycol heater, or not. I will upload photos as soon as I can.
 
Photos for 15A dimmer install below. The one other thing that everyone should do is run the PicoBrew 'New Clean Beta v6' recipe multiple times. I guarantee that that recipe will cover your screen with "coffee grinds" from the wort that has accumulated in the machine's "veins/heart".
KIMG0404.JPG
KIMG0405.JPG
KIMG0406.JPG
KIMG0407.JPG
 
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