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I've been thinking about this a little lately. The fast fermentation theory is that fermentation can be achieved at higher temps as long as there is a certain amount of air pressure. Maybe I misunderstood that?

If I am pulling on the pressure relieve valve as a test of whether or not fermentation has ended, am I letting off enough pressure that the higher temperatures are a potential problem?

I'm not overly concerned about my temps, I'm at around 68F in my basement for now. Once I get this pilsner out of the fermentation freezer, I can go back to ale temps and really control it around 65F like I'd prefer. But I am curious about the pressure.

Nope your over thinking it. If fermentation is still active it will quickly build up the low pressure the valve holds. If it's done it's done. But again I wouldn't even do it. To test if fermentation is complete you have to pull up on it 5 or more times an hour or so between to tell if it's done. The valve holding pressure slightly carbonates the beer as it ferments. When you release pressure your releasing the headspace pressure, then the co2 in solution slowly releases to the headspace and you do it again and again until the beer is flat and no more pressure releases. Until no more pressure releases after time between pulls you don't really know if it's done.
 
I AM SO PISSED RIGHT NOW!

Got my first two packs of the brew unlimited yesterday. Of course I immediately brew! Dang machine won't heat the wort, I play with it for a while and then send in a ticket. Luckily after over half an hour there was still no water in the step filter so I took everything out and sealed it up as airtight as I can. Now I've run about 15 first rinse cycles for them and 4 or 5 (I;ve lost track) shuttle pump tests. All with shuttle pump failures. No error codes just shuttle pump fails. They want me to ship the machine back!!! So what happens with my brew unlimited packs? They just sit here and I have nothing to drink. I am not a happy camper. I emailed them and ask the price of a new shuttle pump. I've replaced it before I can do it again.
 
I AM SO PISSED RIGHT NOW!

Got my first two packs of the brew unlimited yesterday. Of course I immediately brew! Dang machine won't heat the wort, I play with it for a while and then send in a ticket. Luckily after over half an hour there was still no water in the step filter so I took everything out and sealed it up as airtight as I can. Now I've run about 15 first rinse cycles for them and 4 or 5 (I;ve lost track) shuttle pump tests. All with shuttle pump failures. No error codes just shuttle pump fails. They want me to ship the machine back!!! So what happens with my brew unlimited packs? They just sit here and I have nothing to drink. I am not a happy camper. I emailed them and ask the price of a new shuttle pump. I've replaced it before I can do it again.

That sucks. I'm guessing they want you to ship it in this time so they can make sure everything else is running correctly.
 
I AM SO PISSED RIGHT NOW!

Got my first two packs of the brew unlimited yesterday. Of course I immediately brew! Dang machine won't heat the wort, I play with it for a while and then send in a ticket. Luckily after over half an hour there was still no water in the step filter so I took everything out and sealed it up as airtight as I can. Now I've run about 15 first rinse cycles for them and 4 or 5 (I;ve lost track) shuttle pump tests. All with shuttle pump failures. No error codes just shuttle pump fails. They want me to ship the machine back!!! So what happens with my brew unlimited packs? They just sit here and I have nothing to drink. I am not a happy camper. I emailed them and ask the price of a new shuttle pump. I've replaced it before I can do it again.

From the Kickstarter FAQ, "If your machine breaks just let us know, and we will stop the clock while we repair it for you." Just be sure to remind them.
 
Thank you for that link!!! I've ask them how it's done. I guess I didn't read all the fine print. :D

For everyone's info. I just ask the person I am dealing with via email regarding the problem and he responded that he had 'paused' it. So I am good to go.

Don't have the shipping label yet.
 
Does anyone know if a smaller C02 cartridge (16 gram maybe) will work with the regulator that comes with the upgrade kit? I just plan on using it for transfers.

Edit: NM, it comes with an adapter for smaller cartridges.
 
I am force carbonating my first beer, per the picobrew videos. Dialed the pressure to 24psi and set serving keg in fridge. As told by the video, the psi has reduced. After 12 hours I am sitting at ~17psi. I don't remember seeing anything that says I am suppose to adjust, so I plan on letting it sit as-is for a total of 36 hours, per the video.
Just wanted to make sure this is correct, or if there is anything that tells me I've reach optimal carbonation. Thanks
 
I don't use the serving keg so I'm not much help in this area, but I do know if you expect it to be done in 36 hours you will need to raise the pressure back up. Be careful though it's easy to overcarb.
 
At 36 hours the psi was sitting at 15. I reduced it to 10 and will be pouring my first drink in about 10 hours. I will turn off the regulator and pull it out to release pressure, then put it back on and set it to 2psi for pouring. My plan is to leave the regulator on and between long periods between pours, setting the regulator to 10psi to keep the beer drinkable longer.
 
I've made enough posts on here I figure I should make a post-tasting post.I am extremely happy with how my half-squeezed turned out.

If people remember I created a yeast starter. I added about 1tsp of yeast into 95-100 degree water, let it sit for 15 minutes, then stirred it up. I pitched this into the wort, shook the hell out of it, then did a ff for about 10 days. I dry hopped and let the hops sit for about 3 days, the beer continued to ferment. At 14 days I cold crashed for 36 hours.

yummy..
 
I've made enough posts on here I figure I should make a post-tasting post.I am extremely happy with how my half-squeezed turned out.

If people remember I created a yeast starter. I added about 1tsp of yeast into 95-100 degree water, let it sit for 15 minutes, then stirred it up. I pitched this into the wort, shook the hell out of it, then did a ff for about 10 days. I dry hopped and let the hops sit for about 3 days, the beer continued to ferment. At 14 days I cold crashed for 36 hours.

yummy..

Actually, although you rehydrated the yeast, you did not do a starter. The purpose of a starter is to increase cell count and that didn't happen with water.
 
Actually, although you rehydrated the yeast, you did not do a starter. The purpose of a starter is to increase cell count and that didn't happen with water.

rehydrate, thats what I meant... still need to learn the lingo...

I have no idea if rehydrating contributed to my success. I'm just so happy that I made such a tasty beer.

Tomorrow is brew day..

Flavor is Granite Peculiar. If anyone has made this, or if anyone has any suggestions please comment..
 
I seem to have a stuck transfer. Using C02 at about 8 psi, I can't seem to get the beer to move from keg to keg (dribbled about 1/4 cup in the last 15 to 20 minutes). Cold crashed for about 4 days at 35 degrees. Doesn't appear to be frozen. Trub stuck in the tube maybe? Should I try to pull the tube and clean it or just siphon this batch? Annie's London Ale if that has any bearing... Any other ideas?

Edit: Found this in the out tube. Gelatin like consistency.

??

IMG_0741.jpg
 
rehydrate, thats what I meant... still need to learn the lingo...

I have no idea if rehydrating contributed to my success. I'm just so happy that I made such a tasty beer.

Tomorrow is brew day..

Flavor is Granite Peculiar. If anyone has made this, or if anyone has any suggestions please comment..

I've rehydrated and not rehydrated. Based on my experience, I'd say it really doesn't make any difference.
 
I seem to have a stuck transfer. Using C02 at about 8 psi, I can't seem to get the beer to move from keg to keg (dribbled about 1/4 cup in the last 15 to 20 minutes). Cold crashed for about 4 days at 35 degrees. Doesn't appear to be frozen. Trub stuck in the tube maybe? Should I try to pull the tube and clean it or just siphon this batch? Annie's London Ale if that has any bearing... Any other ideas?

Edit: Found this in the out tube. Gelatin like consistency.

??

That really weird. It's not uncommon to clog a tube with cake, but that looks strange.
 
Instead of letting the wort cool overnight can i just put the brew keg in the fridge until the temp decal reads room temperature?
 
The decal reads the temperature at the outer edge - the middle of the keg could be warmer. Then you would need to take it out and bring it up to fermentation temp.

Better to let it sit overnight so it settles to an even, consistent temperature.
 
I seem to have a stuck transfer. Using C02 at about 8 psi, I can't seem to get the beer to move from keg to keg (dribbled about 1/4 cup in the last 15 to 20 minutes). Cold crashed for about 4 days at 35 degrees. Doesn't appear to be frozen. Trub stuck in the tube maybe? Should I try to pull the tube and clean it or just siphon this batch? Annie's London Ale if that has any bearing... Any other ideas?

Edit: Found this in the out tube. Gelatin like consistency.

??
[edited - forget which forum I was in]

Did you by chance throw whirfloc or irish moss in the keg? I've seen that kind of gunk in the hop cage on my Zymatic after putting whirfloc and yeast nutrients into a hop cage?

I've had lots of stuck transfers due to lots of hops. If you can't get it going at first, just rack off with an auto-siphon and don't mess with it. If you don't have one, I recommend getting an auto-siphon.
 
Hello,

I'm searching for a Beer Dispenser for go with my Pico S.

Which one do you recommend me?
I saw the Avanti 1.7-Cubic Foot Beer Dispenser, what do you think about?

Or the official KegSmart? (but it's a bit too big and don't need for the fermentation as I already have something)


Thank you in advance for your help!
 
I bought an Avanti for $100, and it holds 2 brew kegs perfectly at 38 degrees. the real problem is using their 16g CO2. mine leaked out after 24 hrs. additionally, the tap uses a small tube 1/8" to dispense and crimp method to stop the flow at the tap.
I am looking to increase the size if the tubing but it could mean the tap won't pinch off the flow. I will be experimenting with the tubing soon. will keep this forum updated.
 
[edited - forget which forum I was in]

Did you by chance throw whirfloc or irish moss in the keg? I've seen that kind of gunk in the hop cage on my Zymatic after putting whirfloc and yeast nutrients into a hop cage?

I've had lots of stuck transfers due to lots of hops. If you can't get it going at first, just rack off with an auto-siphon and don't mess with it. If you don't have one, I recommend getting an auto-siphon.

Irish moss. Thanks, hadn't thought about that.
I did mess with it though. :(
Bumped the side of the keg often enough to stir everything back up. Had I been smart, I would have tossed it back in the fridge to cold crash again but ended up siphoning it to the new keg. Wort had a nice flavor so even if it doesn't turn out, I'll definitely brew it again (and hopefully get it right).
Thanks again.
 
I am on my second brew (Granite Peculiar if that makes a difference) and on my 2nd day of ff. the temp decal is reading in the highest range 'too hot for ff', around 86 degrees f. There's no way the room is that hot, in fact it feels a little cooler than my first ff temperature.

Is there a chance that having the temp decal on during the second brew screwed up this temp decal?

I'm planning on leaving it as-is and trusting my own senses to tell me I am in the correct range. After 4 days I will lift up the valve and I should hear the hissing. Then I will open up the keg seal and my guess would be that if I see krausen I should be okay. Is that correct?
 
Maybe? The temp decals can definitely get messed up, but it seems more likely that it's accurate. The fermentation process itself generates heat.
 
I am on my second brew (Granite Peculiar if that makes a difference) and on my 2nd day of ff. the temp decal is reading in the highest range 'too hot for ff', around 86 degrees f. There's no way the room is that hot, in fact it feels a little cooler than my first ff temperature.

Is there a chance that having the temp decal on during the second brew screwed up this temp decal?

I'm planning on leaving it as-is and trusting my own senses to tell me I am in the correct range. After 4 days I will lift up the valve and I should hear the hissing. Then I will open up the keg seal and my guess would be that if I see krausen I should be okay. Is that correct?

Nope, they are quite accurate. Mine have been on for over a year through 40+ brews and still work perfect. You really need to cool that down next time, too late for this batch.
 
Nope, they are quite accurate. Mine have been on for over a year through 40+ brews and still work perfect. You really need to cool that down next time, too late for this batch.

Well for what its worth its been 2 and half days and there was a lot of co2 stored up in the metal keg seal under the ff valve when I pulled up on it.
 
Well for what its worth its been 2 and half days and there was a lot of co2 stored up in the metal keg seal under the ff valve when I pulled up on it.

Of course, it's still gonna ferment. Your gonna get some off flavors at that temp though. Really need to keep it in the mid 70s or lower. I've found off flavors in the high 70s.
 
Great thread people. Lots of good info here.

Are the ~50 beers in the beer marketplace the only commercial beer kits they have or do they rotate through different ones? Don't get me wrong, I have gotten some good ones and see some others that I still want to try but I was under the impression that the brewery partners were a big part of their master plan.
 
Great thread people. Lots of good info here.

Are the ~50 beers in the beer marketplace the only commercial beer kits they have or do they rotate through different ones? Don't get me wrong, I have gotten some good ones and see some others that I still want to try but I was under the impression that the brewery partners were a big part of their master plan.

If you click on 'coming soon' in the marketplace there are 300+ more entries. Some of those look like breweries only though. With the popularity of the C kickstarter, they probably have some more leverage getting breweries to sign up (let's hope at least).
 
Great thread people. Lots of good info here.

Are the ~50 beers in the beer marketplace the only commercial beer kits they have or do they rotate through different ones?

There are currently 68 PicoPaks available in the marketplace and that is up from 50 when the last kickstarter campaign ended in May. My guess is that number will keep increasing with the more Picos coming online.
 
There are currently 68 PicoPaks available in the marketplace and that is up from 50 when the last kickstarter campaign ended in May. My guess is that number will keep increasing with the more Picos coming online.

I certainly hope they do. Call me a pessimist, but I fear that breweries are holding back because they know its not possible to replicate their beer using US-05 (or one of the other 4/5 dry yeast options) and the default Pico directions. If I was a brewer I would want to specify a specific yeast and have complete control of the instructions post-boil before licensed my beer to Pico.
 
I certainly hope they do. Call me a pessimist, but I fear that breweries are holding back because they know its not possible to replicate their beer using US-05 (or one of the other 4/5 dry yeast options) and the default Pico directions. If I was a brewer I would want to specify a specific yeast and have complete control of the instructions post-boil before licensed my beer to Pico.

Having worked for and with a couple breweries who contributed recipes, I can tell you that wasn't a concern for them. Also, Annie will brew the recipes on the Pico and send them to the breweries for approval, so they know exactly how it will turn out.
 
Has anyone used the Brew Keg for ff of a 1 gallon BIAB kit (example from Northern Brewer)?
 
Just reading up on cold crashing and have a couple of questions for those that do it.
1) How long? My last 2 batches I cold crashed for 2 days at 35 deg. I'm reading that might not be long enough.
2) I use a 3 piece airlock and just read that cold crashing can suck the sanitizer and air back into the keg. If that's true, and a problem, any suggestions on what to do? Should I remove the air lock and replace with the red keg seal plug? Change out to the corny lid and use the ff relief valve? Something else?
Thanks for any help or suggestions.
 
Has anyone used the Brew Keg for ff of a 1 gallon BIAB kit (example from Northern Brewer)?

I have not, but thought about it. I can't imagine the beer inside would make a difference to the process. One of the experts can probably tell you for sure.
 
I have not, but thought about it. I can't imagine the beer inside would make a difference to the process. One of the experts can probably tell you for sure.

In general I agree. But you will always make better beer at lower temps than the FF is designed for.
 
Just reading up on cold crashing and have a couple of questions for those that do it.
1) How long? My last 2 batches I cold crashed for 2 days at 35 deg. I'm reading that might not be long enough.
2) I use a 3 piece airlock and just read that cold crashing can suck the sanitizer and air back into the keg. If that's true, and a problem, any suggestions on what to do? Should I remove the air lock and replace with the red keg seal plug? Change out to the corny lid and use the ff relief valve? Something else?
Thanks for any help or suggestions.

It takes like 18 hours in the fridge to cool all the way down, 2 days isnt long enough to be worth the effort in my experience. If I can't wait at least 3 days I skip the step.
 
It takes like 18 hours in the fridge to cool all the way down, 2 days isnt long enough to be worth the effort in my experience. If I can't wait at least 3 days I skip the step.

Quick sanity check - when you cold crash, if you were ff, you leave the metal keg lid with ff in and move the entire brew keg 'as-is' into the fridge right ?
 
Quick sanity check - when you cold crash, if you were ff, you leave the metal keg lid with ff in and move the entire brew keg 'as-is' into the fridge right ?

Correct. At the cold temps yeast and other solids will drop and the beer will clarify, slowly.
 
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