pH question.

[mloula]

Does the pH of the boiled Wort differ from the pH of the mash?

 

[Nateo]

Generally the pH will drop post boil, since the wort (and the H+ ions) are more concentrated.

 

[mloula]

Thanks, Nateo. I guess I'll have to wait for next brewday to see how my pH is. I'm suspecting that is the reason for the poor hop utilization.

 

[Nateo]

Why do you think you have poor hop utilization?

 

[mloula]

Well, in order for me to brew an IPA that is comparable in bitterness to, say Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale I have to use enough hops to have beer calculus say it will be 240 ibu's when their label says 65. Know what I mean? The beer is very pleasant to drink, but the bitterness at the front of the tongue almost isn't there. It's more of a smooth bitterness at the front that progressively gets more bitter as it moves to the back of the mouth. It's a good beer I just want to figure out what's going on.

I have never checked my mash pH, but I bought some test strips to test it the next time I brew when I found out the relation between mash pH and hop utilization. I read some of the Understanding Mash pH in the home brewing wiki and my eyes just kinda glazed over and my mind shut down.

I have well water and the pH out of the ground is 6.4 so says the guy who installed our neutralizer tank and softener. At first I was thinking my pH was too high, but now I'm not so sure.

I better quit for now. I'm starting to ramble.

 

[Nateo]

It's really hard to estimate bitterness. It's even harder to try to model bitterness. Every equation written to estimate bitterness is just taking a WAG. I've found Tinseth's to work for me, but what you did (compare perceived bitterness in your beer to a known commercial example) is really the best way to target bitterness levels in your recipes.

Do you know how your hops were handled before you got them? Do you know the exact alpha acid percentage? The way alpha acid content is determined is by taking a small sample of a large lot of hops. Each plant is unique, so the pound or so you have might have different alpha acid amount than whatever they tested was. If they weren't kept at very low temperatures the whole time, they've lost bittering potential.

Hop utilization varies for a lot of reasons. Larger kettles (1bbl+) utilize hops much more efficiently than homebrew kettles.

I really don't think it has anything to do with your water pH. I don't think your water guy knew what he was saying, because at 6.4 that water should be dissolving your pipes right now. Water is usually 7.5-8.

 

[mabrungard]

I'm curious if a hop sack is being used? That will seriously reduce hop utilization.

A neutralizer tank could be a tank of calcite. That adds calcium hardness and neutralizes excess acidity. The softener might be intended to counter that added calcium hardness that the users dont expect with their local water.

 

[mloula]

It was hops I got from freshops and the AA% is on the bag. They took a few days to arrive so they weren't kept cold the entire time. Everything you said makes a lot of sense and tasting the beer again makes me think I don't have an issue. Maybe I just have to make sure I plan my IPA's to have high ibu calculations to get the perceived bitterness I want. Oh, and many small leaks in the copper pipes were the reason we called the water guy and got the neutralizer so I guess it was slowly dissolving them over the 30 years the house has been around.

I am using a hop sack, Martin, although I think what I will do from now on is free float the hops in the kettle and use the hop sack on the auto siphon when transferring to the carboy.

I have a question about mash pH though. What and how much of, would you add to raise or lower your mash pH to the desired pH? I understand that water chemistry plays a role in that decision, but if you didn't know the chemistry what would be the best thing to add?

Do you guys ever brew with soft water? I haven't tried that yet...Not sure how well it will work.