I also agree 100% that by the time you take a pH reading, it's far too late to do anything about it in terms of the mash (although you could make adjustments intended to influence the flavor of the finished beer -- I don't, but I'm not saying it should never be done).
Use that data for the next batch of that recipe, and then RDWHAHB.
I don't always even bother to take a measurement, but when I do it's no earlier than the 30 minute mark, and more often than not I end up doing it right before I lift the grain basket. (I'm a no-sparge Foundry brewer these days.) Again, I'm using it as a reference measurement, not an actionable one.
I use Bru'n Water and a Hach Pocket Pro+, and like many I've found the estimated pH to be well within the "close enough" range for me, rarely varying from the meter by more than 0.1 or so. I design my water additions to hit a specific pH, but if I miss by a little I just don't worry about it.
If I was shooting for 5.4 and got 5.5 or 5.3, that doesn't bother me in the least, and the effect on the finished beer is negligible for the most part. I might make a compensation adjustment for next time, or I might not. And I certainly don't make that decision until I've fully evaluated the finished beer.
Here's my take on mash pH in general: it is (of course) an important metric in the brewing process, but as long as you are in the generally-accepted mash range (5.2 - 5.6, maybe 5.8 for very dark roasty malty beers) the exact pH is far less important to the finished beer than getting the flavor components of the water chemistry correct.
Missing your pH by a tenth or even two may be noticeable, but hardly catastrophic and the batch will certainly not be ruined in any way; get your water chemistry wrong and the finished beer could be significantly off the mark, especially for bitter and/or very malty styles.