Peracetic Acid sources?

[The_Bishop]

Does anyone have a source for Peracetic Acid? Looking to change up sanitizers periodically and can't seem to find a source for it on a smaller scale.

 

[mabrungard]

If you want to use weak stuff, you can make up your own PAA with distilled 5% vinegar and the typical drugstore 3% peroxide. Its mixed at about the same ratio as is used to make the pickling solution for removing lead from brass. (I don't remember what the ratio is)

From my research, it apparently takes at least 24 hours for the chemical reaction to move forward and the sanitizing power to be in effect. You can't spray a little vinegar and a little peroxide on a surface and expect it to sanitize (even though you will find instances on the internet where people says it works).

 

[bucketnative]

You can usually find SporKlenz (A Steris product) or MinnCare (a Cantel product) at hospital and lab supply (VWR or Fisher) companies. It's pricey though. We wipe it down with ethanol after application and the 10 minute dwell time. Otherwise it will leave a film and vinegary residue.

I might try the make your own route first.

 

[The_Bishop]

Ok, thanks guys. I was more interested in it for it's biofilm removal properties.

 

[user 246304]

I'm wondering what we used at GI. Whatever it was, that peracetic was nasty. A tiny teardrop's worth splashed on my face and I definitely got dinged, the burn lasted several weeks, IIRC.

 

[mabrungard]

I'm wondering what we used at GI. Whatever it was, that peracetic was nasty. A tiny teardrop's worth splashed on my face and I definitely got dinged, the burn lasted several weeks, IIRC.

The commercial PAA is made with much higher concentration acetic acid and peroxide. The peroxide alone is a very dangerous substance at higher concentrations. The simple 3 and 5 percent materials that I mention above, should be less hazardous. But along with less hazard, they are probably not as effective either.

 

[BLL]

If you have a buddy in a brewery you might be able to get him to get you a bottle of PAA, otherwise your out of luck.

Tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED) reacts with Hydrogen Peroxide to generate Peroxyacetic Acid. It's a common laundry detergent additive when used alongside active oxygen bleaching agents like Sodium Percarbonate. Sodium Percarbonate (the primary ingredient in most oxygen based cleaners like PBW and OxyClean) decomposes into Sodium Carbonate (soda ash) and Hydrogen Peroxide, but you'll need to study up on molar weight and molarity to determine how much everything in solution is going to generate a given amount of Hydrogen Peroxide and then Peroxyacetic Acid. Sodium Percarbonate is fairly easy and inexpensive to get ahold of. Couldn't say for TAED.

Without being well versed in chemistry I can't advise playing with highly concentrated Hydrogen Peroxide or attempting to produce concentrated Peroxyacetic Acid. Both can be extremely dangerous. PAA is probably effective at removing biofilm because it is a strong oxidizing agent, which means it "kills" organic tissue by breaking down proteins, cell structure, and DNA. Hydrogen Peroxide is also an oxidizing agent, is usually blended with PAA in production brewing settings, and is in fact one of the most powerful oxidizers known. If the mechanism you require is oxidation of living tissue, then I recommend just using Hydrogen Peroxide. You can buy it in the store, order it online at higher concentration, or purchase Sodium Percarbonate and learn how to mix to a desired concentration.

 

[user 246304]

The commercial PAA is made with much higher concentration acetic acid and peroxide. The peroxide alone is a very dangerous substance at higher concentrations. The simple 3 and 5 percent materials that I mention above, should be less hazardous. But along with less hazard, they are probably not as effective either.

OK, thanks, Martin. Knowing H2O2 is an oxidizer I figured it's strong effect had something to do with this, just wasn't sure what concentrations we're talking about. All know is that stuff was madly dangerous.

 

[stz]

I'm lucky enough to have access to it and if you do get hold of it and decide to use it keep it away from copper! Also if somebody gives you a little bit in a bottle be aware that it degrades over time and that bottle will pressurise, the drums of it we use are fitted with a one way valve so they can vent pressure.

 

[The_Bishop]

Yeah, it doesn't look like I'll be able to source any, anyhow. Did find a source for caustic, though. Picked up a gallon of it, works great in my keg washer. Might pick up some Saniclean as an acid rinse for them, if I can't find any Acid #5 or #6.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

Hey bud! Get some 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. In home brew environment it will be enough. Contact time ~60mins. I spray it 4 times every 15mins. It is as efficient as peracetic acid, but does not stink.
Some reference: https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontro...n/disinfection-methods/chemical.html#Hydrogen

In addition, at concentrations over 6% (though, I wasn't able to find anything more then 3% in my area) you will achieve chemical sterilization. Rinse with boiling water afterwards.

 

[FatDragon]

I'm lucky enough to have access to it and if you do get hold of it and decide to use it keep it away from copper! Also if somebody gives you a little bit in a bottle be aware that it degrades over time and that bottle will pressurise, the drums of it we use are fitted with a one way valve so they can vent pressure.

Dang, so that's what happened! I used to buy peracetic acid for my sanitation here in China - it came in two bottles and you were supposed to mix it 50-50 when you diluted it. I think mixing it straight was 15% strength, so I typically mixed about 30-40ml from each bottle with 2 liters of water for a roughly 0.5% solution. Anyway, a couple months ago the bottle that doesn't stink (so probably peroxide) ended up pressurizing and blew out the inner stopper when I opened the cap. I mixed my batch and dumped the rest (dumping the bottles a couple days apart to avoid making a 5% solution in my toilet...) and finally made the plunge on a marked-up bottle of Starsan. Life is too short to have reactive chemicals blowing up in your face.

 

[Queequeg]

Its really easy to get in the UK, surprised in the US you can't get it easily. If you do get it its good but pretty noxious when dispensing. You want to use a solution well below 1% for general sanitization. If you doing a chemical SIP then you can go to 6% but that comes with H&S implications.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

Well, I am in Canada. Here its only possible to order 35% concentration online, but then it becomes HazMat and shipping costs are skyrocketing. I would not recommend diluting it below 3%, because contact time will increase significantly. As of H&S, the general practice is that any sterilant needs to be rinsed. In this case H2O2 is the safest option because it degrades to water and oxygen almost immediately as long as it is rinsed with boiling water.

 

[Queequeg]

35% is super concentrated. Here you can only freely get 5% and because its a fumming acid that unpleasant enough to dispense. I would not want to use 35% without a fume cupboard.

As for disinfectant is will pretty much kill everything even at 1% in 15 mins.

You will see a 6 log reduction of even bacillus spores at that concentration.

That will then need to be rinsed off with a 0.05% no rinse formula.

There are very few instances outside of a commercial cip/sip that require a sterilant concentrations and then if you need sterilisation you better off going for steam as it is penetrative.

H2O2 is a good disinfectant but it's in activated by organic matter.

Other good alternatives are chlorine dioxide which can be formulated for no rinse and hypochlorous acid if you need the big guns, but that will need to be rinsed and will passivate your stainless.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

Actually, I was talking about 35% H2O2, not peracetic acid. Which further can be cut to 6-7.5 concentration range and used as a sterilant. I agree, peracetic acid is quite dangerous substance in high concentrations and stinks quite bad in any concentration that is able to sterilize the equipment.
In general, would argue against any non-rinse solutions (including those advertised like so) because you wanna rinse all dead cells and spores from your equipment along with any toxins they might have produced while being treated.

 

[Queequeg]

O.k 35% H2O2 makes more sense.

Unless your removing a significant biofilm then residue dead cells aren't an issue. Again exo/endotoxin will only be associated with biofilms or very high spoilage levels. If that's a concern then I should be doing a physical clean first before disinfecting.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

Well, maybe. I do not have specific knowledge to argue deeper in the topic. Talking to people with microbiology background, I know that it is the rule of thumb (read the religion ) that any dead biomass got to go.
Except that, you do not want to have the agent in your beer. Regardless of what it is.

 

[Queequeg]

It depends on the level of spoilage. If it visibly clean following a physical clean then your o.k to go with a no rinse. If there is visible organic matter say a biofilm or mould then you are best going a physical clean prior disinfection.

I have been a pharmaceutical microbiologist for 17 years, and this is the approach you would use for cleaning programs in those sectors.

If you are worried about pyrogens then you need to depyeogenate, which can only be done normally by heat treatment.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

It depends on the level of spoilage. If it visibly clean following a physical clean then your o.k to go with a no rinse. If there is visible organic matter say a biofilm or mould then you are best going a physical clean prior disinfection.

I have been a pharmaceutical microbiologist for 17 years, and this is the approach you would use for cleaning programs in those sectors.

If you are worried about pyrogens then you need to depyeogenate, which can only be done normally by heat treatment.

Could you, please, name several reliable substance and their concentrations that can be used for non-rinse sterilization (again, I stress sterilization, not sanitation or disinfection) of both vegetative forms and spores of wide spectrum of micro organisms found in normal human living environment and accessible over the counter for normal users?

 

[Queequeg]

Non-rinse and sterilisation don't really go together.

Also liquid and sterilant and terms which a very situational. As liquid treatments are non penetrative my nature.

When the CDC talk about using H2O2 or peracetic acid as a sterilant they are normally refering to situations like cip/sip where solutions are commonly at temperature and under agitation.

In such instances all it takes is dirt or equipment to cause occlusion and you don't get sterilisation.

In terms of no rinse, the 2 candidates already mentioned are the only real options and I both instances they need to be allowed to decay.

Other products will contain chlorine which will persist.

But the real question is why do you need sterilisation?

A 6 log reduction of spores is sufficiently close to sterilisation at least in brewing that it will make no difference.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

Non-rinse and sterilisation don't really go together.

That is what I am trying to say.

But the real question is why do you need sterilisation?

I can explain. Since recently I became a follower of the zero contamination philosophy in home brewing. By that I mean if you take a sample of your beer and seed it on agarized wort, nothing except monoculture of yeast should grow on it. Conventional sanitizers (specifically Star San) do not provide that level of disinfection allowing to achieve that. My recent experience of switching to 3% H2O2 + 0.5% with dish detergent with 60 min exposure and further rinse with boiling water demonstrated significant improvement of beer taste (even without aging). However, I was asking my question because I want to get 6% H2O2 equivalent (since it is not easily available here in Canada) in order to be able to sterilize my Petri dishes and other equipment. With that I want to farm my own yeast from a singular colony.

PS: Wasn't it you who was going to re-test StarSan efficiency as a sanitizer in this topic? Any success on that?

 

[Queequeg]

I don't remember that starsan thread.

If you need sterile components e buy them pre irradiated.

Otherwise you are going to find it difficult to achieve sterility at home.

Also a through disinfectant will actually get you sterile anyway, though you can't prove it of course.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

I am sure that was you in this post.

Buying sterile does not make any sense. I want it close to sterile all of my equipment: fermenter, plate chiller, hoses. Everything.

Therefore, I am arguing that H2O2 (3% @>=60 min exposure) and boiling in 2% baking soda solution (for plate chiller hoses and spigots) are the only feasible, cheap and sustainabale (and the safest!) options to get clean beer. Also, I thought that you as a professional with 17 years of experience could suggest some consumer feasible way to get 6% H2O2 equivalent to achieve chemical sterilization.

 

[Queequeg]

Well as a professional with 17 years experience in telling you that 3% h202 won't constitute a sterilisation.

A 4O% H2O2 as a hot vapour with a 40 minutes contact time won't constitute sterility.

The difference between disinfection and sterility is only an issue of assurance as I said a solution of H202 or peracetic acid will get you 6 log on most bacillus species. Is is a damn as close to sterility as you need and will perceivably make no difference.

Sterility is a very specific and defined parameters. That's why industry will typical use autoclaving or irradiation. If they use chemical treatment is normally ethylene oxide.

This is because liquid sterilisation isn't practical or reliable enough to demonstrate the 12 log you typically need to claim sterility.

 

[Queequeg]

For buying pre sterile I was refering to Petri dishes or agar plates.

I also read that thread and yea that is me.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

I agree, I might got too excited on the term sterilization. Could you, please, point me to some reference source where I can find tabulations of exposure time, concentration of H2O2 and log reduction of bacillus subtilis spores?

 

[Queequeg]

That will normally be proprietary validation data. I think I have some hydropure validation on disk somewhere. If I get a chance I will see if I can dig it out .

 

[bucketnative]

@Messir_Woland - FDA regulates sanitization of food-processing plants. They have federally regulated sanitizing procedures mandated by 21 CFR 178.1010. - https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/cfrsearch.cfm?fr=178.1010

Note that these are sanitizers, not sterilants (99.999% reduction of viable organisms on hard surfaces).

i think the technical definition of sterilization is extremely difficult to achieve in a home-brewing environment. The ISO-accepted definition of sterilization is a, "validated process used to render a product free from viable microorganisms". A lot goes into that validation, including control of bioburden, the sterilization process itself (control and monitoring), sterile barrier systems, etc... On the home-brew scale, we should be concerned about good cleaning practices and sanitization.

The industry standard for textbooks with the type of information that you are seeking is: Disinfection, Sterilization, and Preservation, edited by Seymour Block ( ). It is a weighty tome, to say the least, but it is very thorough. Mostly applicable to industrial or clinical processes.

CDC has some interesting information on disinfection/sterilization here: https://www.cdc.gov/infectioncontrol/guidelines/disinfection/disinfection-methods/chemical.html

Another decent reference: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/9780470682531.pat0885

You can probably find other literature references on Google Scholar. A lot of information out there pertaining to vaporous H2O2, because that is used widely in clinical and industrial applications. Finding good references for liquid may require a bit more digging.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

Thank you guys!
@Queequeg it would be really greate contribution to the community if you could validate the test of Inquisitor Home Brewing discussed in the other thread about StarSan efficiency. My personall perception is that StarSan does not do what it says it does. In addition, their follow up test shows that minimal inhibitory concentration of StarSan is around 6%. Given the number of people using it, I believe you would do a huge favor to everyone.