Part needed...

[Steven Sinclair]

So, we're all familiar with those awesome RipTide pumps. However, for those of us that aren't quite able to afford them yet, I'm working on modifying my plumbing to include that little pull ring/plunger/vent valve/whatever it's called I'm wanting to insert a stainless "y" fitting at the end of my pump input ports, but need to find the aforementioned part. I've searched around and found a whole lot of 1/4" plunger-type fittings, but I'm not sure that's going to work. Suggestions? Thanks in advance!

 

[MMP126]

I think what you are looking for is a bleed setup for your pump. That is what the little pull ring valve thing is for on the RipTides.

You can do this:

there are some extraneous parts here, like the camloks, but the fitting setup is there...

All the parts you need, you can get at homebrewing.org...go to the all grain brewing drop down, then to SS fittings.

 

[Steven Sinclair]

Yes, to bleed the air out so the fluid flows without issue. I've seen the use of ball valves before, but didn't want use something so bulky and the "pull up on the ring briefly" seemed a lot easier. By the way, did you notice the pumps and their orientation here? An air pocket will form at the top of the pump head and may prevent proper flow. Thanks.

 

[MMP126]

Yeah, the little bleed valves on the Riptides are pretty cool. Havent seen one that is available aftermarket...as of yet...

No, this setup is good. Bleed air out the suction line while you feed the pump head. These types of pumps allow flow through them when they are off, so the impeller cavity would fill with fluid (once you bled the suction line), and the pump should be good.

 

[Steven Sinclair]

Cool. So, if you could add another elbow, so that the ball valves were pointing upward, would that be enough to prevent spillage? Thanx again.

 

[MMP126]

Looking at this again, the setup in the photo would work, but it isnt the best for this setup/head orientation. Always best to bleed at the lowest point possible. If my heads were oriented like this, I would move the bleed setup to the bottom of the pump head (discharge side). But, it all depends on how your pump head/inlet/outlets are oriented.

No, I would point them down or how the photo shows. You want the fluid to flow out of the bleed valve. That is how you know you are good to go/your pump is primed. There will be a bit of spillage, so and elbow down to a little bucket would work if you cannot spill anything.

 

[Steven Sinclair]

Gotchya. Thanx yet again!

 

[bruce_the_loon]

What you are looking for is a pull safety relief valve used in compressors and high pressure gas systems. Searching Google for that phrase returns the types of device that is in the riptide pump, but they seem to be brass mostly.

A potential issue is that these valves are safety valve with a pressure rating, so if the internal pressure of the pump circuit exceeds the rated pressure, then the valve will open automatically and dump pressure. In this case as a pressurized spray of wort. If you do get one, make sure the pressure rating is in excess of what is expected in the pump circuit.

 

[day_trippr]

Given there's not even enough pressure generated by the typical home-brewing mag pump to bubble silicone tubing at boiling temperature, I'd be more surprised to find a PRV that actually activates at that low a pressure...

Cheers!

 

[Steven Sinclair]

Ok. Now that I know what they're actually called, I found many around the net. Unfortunately, the least expensive of them was around $75, so I guess I'm going to stick with MMP's suggestion of the ball valve type of assembly. Thanx again, all!

 

[MMP126]

FWIW, McMaster Carr has a valve that may work for under $25. Not sure of the quality, it is brass, and is built for gas relief. Not sure if it would gunk up and be an issue to clean and what-not.

https://www.mcmaster.com/9024k11-9024K112
Just a thought, but I would go with the ball valve setup.