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pale ale recipe

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simcoe26

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I am looking to make a west coast pale ale. I have done a few all grain beers so far but this is the first one I have formulated myself. Please let me know what is good or wrong or strange

11lbs 2row
12oz white wheat malt
4oz caramel 10l
2oz Cara 45

1oz northern brewer at 60min
1oz chinook 30min
2oz cascade 0 min
1oz northern brewer 5days
1oz chinook 5days

Wlp001 with starter

16.56 strike water at 165
6.25 gallons sparge at 170

Primary for 12 days
Secondary with dry hop 5 days
 
SRM? IBU? Mash temp? Expected OG and FG? 5 gallon?

You may be in IPA territory.

Looks good though.
 
big cascade flameout is great move. grain bill looks swell. nb and chinook in drop hop will be smoky, earthy and dank if thats what your going for. any reason why your doing a 5 day dry hop?
 
SRM? IBU? Mash temp? Expected OG and FG? 5 gallon?

You may be in IPA territory.

Looks good though.

og 1.058
Fg 1.013
Srm 4.7
Ibu 58
5.5 gallon batch to make up for loss
Mash temp 152
Sorry for leaving that off

As far as dry hopping I went with five days because I want essence with out it getting to dank or grassy
 
So the brew went pretty good. One question though how do you calculate your sparge water. I fly sparge and I have always heard to use 1.5 times what you strike water was. So my strike water was 1.25 qts per pound and my strike was 2.5 is that correct. I collected almost 9 gallons but I checked the runnings towards the end and they were at 1.015 so what's going on
 
I usually mash between 1 and 1.25 qts /lb too. 2 times your mash water is a good goal, but not a steadfast rule by any means. And sometimes it is just plain wrong.

You need to determine how quickly your system can boil wort. Say it boils 1.5 gallons/hr like mine does. This means, you need your final wort volume + boil time (in hours) *1.5 gallons + any kettle loss + hop absorption if you don't use a hop stopper or bag + any other losses you get during the kettle to fermenter operation. That number is your pre-boil volume, the amount you want after sparging.

Then you have to consider mash tun volumes. You know your strike volume by your mash thickness. Take into account grain absorption, tun losses, water additions if needed etc and you have all the water that goes into your mash tun and how much you will actually be able to drain out.

The difference between the two is the sparge water you can use.
 
I usually mash between 1 and 1.25 qts /lb too. 2 times your mash water is a good goal, but not a steadfast rule by any means. And sometimes it is just plain wrong.

You need to determine how quickly your system can boil wort. Say it boils 1.5 gallons/hr like mine does. This means, you need your final wort volume + boil time (in hours) *1.5 gallons + any kettle loss + hop absorption if you don't use a hop stopper or bag + any other losses you get during the kettle to fermenter operation. That number is your pre-boil volume, the amount you want after sparging.

Then you have to consider mash tun volumes. You know your strike volume by your mash thickness. Take into account grain absorption, tun losses, water additions if needed etc and you have all the water that goes into your mash tun and how much you will actually be able to drain out.

The difference between the two is the sparge water you can use.

Thank you so much it looks like I have some calculations to do. Is there aa general amount that hops absorb. Because I have basically all the other information
 
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