Oxygenation Poll

[Reelale]

Was doing a search on O2 flow rates this afternoon. I found this old post on Beer Advocate. I thought it was pretty informative:

Interesting discussion of wort oxygenation techniques

Saw this on hbd.org and thought some would be interested in it here. I couldn't link directly to the discussion, but if you go here it can be found http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi.

This post is in response to some recent discussions regarding oxygenation levels in wort.
We (Wyeast) recommend 8-15 ppm O2 for healthy fermentations. Some strains require higher oxygen levels than others. Manipulation of pitch rates can increase or reduce the need for oxygen levels. High pitch rates lead to fewer doublings and reduce the need for high levels of sterols. Sterol levels are typically the limiting factor in cell growth. These cellular membrane components are synthesized by the cells using oxygen during the lag phase and assist in keeping the membrane flexible and permeable. Low pitching rates lead to an increase in cell growth (doublings) requiring higher levels of sterols and oxygen.

Last year I ran an experiment comparing homebrew oxygenation methods. The experiment compared dissolved oxygenation levels achieved vs. time for homebrew oxygenation methods including splashing and shaking, siphon spray, aquarium pump, and pure oxygen. I presented the results at the NHC last year in Vegas.

Methods Compared:
Splashing and Shaking- Traditional homebrew aeration method of picking up the carboy and shaking it.
Siphon Spray - Small attachment to your run-in hose that splashes the wort as it enters the fermenter.
Aquarium Pump and Stone- Running compressed air from an aquarium pump through a 2 micron stone (Oxynater).
Pure Oxygen- Running Oxygen through a 2 micron stone (Oxynater) at a flow rate of 3.5 LPM.
The same wort and temperature was used for all methods. Dissolved oxygen levels were measures at 5 second intervals using a DO meter.
OG- 1.045
Temp- 68 F
Volume- 5 gal
Fermenter- Standard 5 gal glass carboy
Stone pore size- 2 micron (Liquid Bread Oxynater)
Oxygen Supply- Bernzomatic
Oxygen flow rate with Bernzomatic was estimated at 3.5 LPM based on a visual comparison of stone activities (vigor of bubbles) with a regulator with gauges on a larger cylinder.

Results:
Siphon Spray: Delivered 4 ppm in wort transfer.
Splashing and Shaking: Reached saturation point of 8 ppm in 40 seconds.
Aquarium Pump and Stone: Reached 8 ppm in 5 minutes.
Pure Oxygen with Stone: 8 ppm (20 seconds), 15 ppm (80 seconds), 22 ppm (2 minutes)

Comments:
There are a lot of variables involved with dissolving oxygen into solution including wort gravity, wort temperature, stone pore size and surface area, O2 flow rate, time, turbulence of wort, and fermenter geometry. This experiment attempted to reduce the number of variables. Oxygenation of a large amount of liquid with a small stone is not an efficient way to dissolve O2 into solution, but in most homebrew cases it is the only method available. Oxygenation in-line (professional method) increases surface area and contact time and increases the efficiency of dissolving O2.
That being said, this experiment demonstrated that using an aquarium pump with a stone is not an efficient way to deliver oxygen into wort. Splashing and shaking was rather efficient (40 sec.) in achieving O2 saturation point with air. Pure oxygen is an easy method that not only allows brewers more efficiency and better control over DO levels but also allows brewers to attain higher levels of DO versus using air.

As a side note, I currently use a combination of two methods. I inject a small amount of O2 and then shake my carboy to fully dissolve it into solution. I have not run any tests with this method but am confident that I am achieving good levels of DO.

I hope that this helps. If you want any additional information or a chart on oxygenation levels vs. time using O2, please email me at [email protected]

Thanks,
Greg

Greg Doss
Microbiologist/ Brewer
Wyeast Laboratories

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Reply
Posted: Nov 04, 2005 - 16:32:25 UTC (5 years ago) | Permalink

 

[fatguy-littlecoat]

ill stick to splashing and shaking ;D

 

[rollinred]

I am sure it has been said already but Oxygen is NOT flammable in any manner. It only assists the oxidation (burning) of a fuel that is flammable.

Keep it away from open flame and you are fine.

You could even have sparks around or in oxygen and nothing will happen. Only open flame where something is already burning will oxygen become a problem.

 

[ayoungrad]

Yeah, it's odd. I have this innate distrust of any and every tube of gas. And I think, for some reason and despite knowledge to the contrary, I have up until this point treated all gasses as bombs ready to blow. Go figure.

Thanks for the input.

With all this I will definitely consider an oxygenation system.

 

[broadbill]

Or, too just muddy the waters, you can provide oleic acid to the yeast in the starter by adding olive oil and just skip aeration.

Here's the write up.

I've been critical of this idea/study in other threads. I'm not going to rehash all of my arguments as they are readily available with a search of other threads.

Long story short though: there are some serious flaws in that study that makes me question if olive oil an any effects whatsoever.

After you are done shooting holes in that study, all you are left with is anecdotal stories of homebrewers who use olive oil and claim to see some sort of effect. Not much better in the way of evidence, if you ask me.

 

[jkarp]

Long story short though: there are some serious flaws in that study that makes me question if olive oil an any effects whatsoever.

http://www.brewcrazy.com/hull-olive-oil-thesis.pdf

I agree with broadbill. The conclusion states that more ester compounds were produced and longer fermentation times. Just what one would expect with poorly oxygenated wort.

I think the point of the thesis however is that wort oxygenation has a downside too - it can reduce flavor stability. Is olive oil a substitute for oxygenation? Possibly, in certain beers where long-term flavor stability is a concern and higher esters can be tolerated. Definitely doesn't appear to be a be-all end-all solution for all all beers though.

 

[SickTransitMundus]

Is olive oil a substitute for oxygenation? Possibly, in certain beers where long-term flavor stability is a concern and higher esters can be tolerated.

The flip side of this is that long-term flavor stability is necessary in high-gravity beers like barleywines, RIS's, and so on. These need good oxygenation to fully attenuate. So then there's a tradeoff between oxidative damage to flavor stability and a strong, healthy fermentation.

Ultimately I don't buy the olive oil hypothesis either. Yeast convert glucose to lipids in the aerobic phase. There's plenty of lipid sources in wort - the deficient ingredient then is oxygen.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...lnpRDUZav4e_cRaqA&sig2=8m5JnbAnScgdfwah6qUCpQ

 

[MazdaMatt]

Matt,

You are living in an apple world and arguing about oranges. Do not take this discussion the wrong way. Beer can be made with the most rudimentary processes. Prior to this stout, my favorite beer, by far, was my first beer. It was the Cascade Pale Ale Partial Mash kit from Midwest. I'll never forget cracking the first beer, hearing a hiss, tasting it, and realizing that I just made beer on my stove top. Awesome stuff. I had practically no equipment, no temperature control, used poor sanitation, mishandled my yeast, and never even heard about oxygen or aeration. None of that mattered, I made beer. My point in the other thread is that it took 25 batches before I had that Eureka! feeling again (I think I even used that Eureka! word in my old thread). Over two years I pretty much maxed out on the the upgrades I wanted to make, but none of those upgrades made the clear impact of O2. I know it sounds crazy. I had a hard time believeing it too.

Rant time.

The hobby is different for different people. Some like the social aspect of brewday or clubs, some like drinking cheaply, some like competitions - me, I love to cook, and this is an extention of that joy. I enjoy brewing because like cooking, you make something from scratch, and get to taste the fruits of your labor. Is there anything more rewarding? Even better, you get to share. I am never happy to hand someone a plate of food that could have tasted better, and likewise, am not happy handing someone a beer that could have tasted better. I love the action, timing, organization, adjustments, and skills of the cooking process, so I really like putting those same skills to work on brewday. That said, I enjoy sharing and discussing brewday tips with others, because after all - of everything I know, it is proabably 10% experience and 90% learned from others. It is why I joined the community and am now willing to type out a thoughtful answer that might be useful to someone else.

As I said, brewing is different things for different people. Craigtube enjoys drinking his own beer as much as Jamil enjoys drinking his own beer. One has a youtube video, the other writes books. A judge might not say their beers are equal in quality, but that does not mean the brewers can not enjoy making and drinking them equally.

I am afraid you are missing the point of the discussion, and maybe this board in general. The OP clearly wants to hear some insite on a process change that he heard might get his beer to a new level. We offered him some good tips and experiences, but you told him not to bother because you have made 6-8 beers and people have been brewing without oxygen systems for thousands of years. Several people (myself included) jumped down your throat, because your comments were no help to the OP. Do not confuse that with accusing you of making crap beer. The two are not connected.

This community is built on exchanging ideas and experiences to help new brewers and better the hobby. Someone who is not willing to listen to new ideas, and constantly falls back on "if its not broke don't fix it" and the awful RDWHAHB are not contributing anything to the community, and certainly not moving the hobby forward. RDWHAHB is a philosophy in the hobby, not the answer to a good question.

I strongly suggest spending some time on the board, listen to podcasts, read books, experiment for yourself, basically just get some experience, and then start to offer your opinion. Questions are always welcome, but uneducated comments; not so much.

Does that make sense?

Joe

Hey Joe,

Again, thanks for your insite. Yes, it all makes perfect sense. I just want to clarify (or perhaps backpedal...) that I wasn't ever telling anybody else what's best for their beer and by saying I've done a half dozen brews I was labelling myself as a newb, not as experienced.

Perhaps when I think "homebrewer" I think of a guy with a bucket and a pot on the stove trying to replace beerstore brew, but when the board says "homebrewer" you're referring to a guy with a temp control chamber, dedicated (and perhaps automated) brew equipment trying to make beers worthy of local awards. I suppose if I were in the latter mindset I'd be more apt to wave the O2 flag, but I'm still spinning my wheels in the former.

 

[ayoungrad]

I never thanked Reelale for the post from BA. That is a really great experiment.

In re: olive oil... it might work but I am not planning on doing it. I just can't see putting something in my beer that has a flavor that does not appeal to me in the setting of beer in general. I love olive oil. I use it for almost all of my cooking that requires oil. But I just don't like the idea of putting it my beer no matter how small an amount.

But after this thread, I might be a little hesitant to knock those who use it.

 

[broadbill]

Hey Joe,

Again, thanks for your insite. Yes, it all makes perfect sense. I just want to clarify (or perhaps backpedal...) that I wasn't ever telling anybody else what's best for their beer and by saying I've done a half dozen brews I was labelling myself as a newb, not as experienced.

Perhaps when I think "homebrewer" I think of a guy with a bucket and a pot on the stove trying to replace beerstore brew, but when the board says "homebrewer" you're referring to a guy with a temp control chamber, dedicated (and perhaps automated) brew equipment trying to make beers worthy of local awards. I suppose if I were in the latter mindset I'd be more apt to wave the O2 flag, but I'm still spinning my wheels in the former.

If I can attempt to put this in context, if the most important think to worry about in homebrewing is "A", with "B" being the second most important thing, "C" being third most important etc., etc....I would rate adding extra oxygen to wort AT BEST an "G" or and "H" (and maybe an "L" or "M" if talking strictly about lower gravity brews). In other words, there is alot more important things than extra oxygenation to worry about.

If comparing importance of adding extra oxygen vs. maintain proper fermentation temperature.....pfft....no contest.....maintaining proper fermentation temps is way more important.

Note: I'm am saying "adding extra oxygen" not oxygenation. Having dissolved levels of oxygenation is important for proper yeast growth, there is no denying it. However, there is more than one way to skin a cat and get the close to proper amts. of oxygen to yeast for proper fermentation.

Adding extra oxygenation alone won't help make great beer if you don't have other more important processes in place.

 

[Montanaandy]

While I would agree that adding bottled O2 is arguably not as important as fermentation temps,etc it has been my personal experience with using bottled O2 and the fact that it has produced what I believe is a better end product that has me continuing to use O2 infusion. Fermentation is a few days longer and Is much smoother than before (i.e. Have not had any blow outs and the CO2 comes out of the carboy in a steady manner so no mess). Nothing else has changed in terms of recipes, firm temps, etc. When all is said and done, while I personally have experienced benefits from using canned O2 and consider it just another of the steps that I employ to make great beer, others may not and may be fine shaking, using the aquarium pump to get O2 into their wort.

 

[jfowler1]

If I can attempt to put this in context, if the most important think to worry about in homebrewing is "A", with "B" being the second most important thing, "C" being third most important etc., etc....I would rate adding extra oxygen to wort AT BEST an "G" or and "H" (and maybe an "L" or "M" if talking strictly about lower gravity brews). In other words, there is alot more important things than extra oxygenation to worry about.

If comparing importance of adding extra oxygen vs. maintain proper fermentation temperature.....pfft....no contest.....maintaining proper fermentation temps is way more important.

Note: I'm am saying "adding extra oxygen" not oxygenation. Having dissolved levels of oxygenation is important for proper yeast growth, there is no denying it. However, there is more than one way to skin a cat and get the close to proper amts. of oxygen to yeast for proper fermentation.

Adding extra oxygenation alone won't help make great beer if you don't have other more important processes in place.

Awesome, awesome point. I am going to copy and paste a post I had made earlier that completely backs up your comment of oxygen rating a "G" on level of importance. However, you will see how quickly you get to "G". It is almost scary how much my breakdown jives with what you said. The point of the other thread was, "Help me build my brewery", so I offered a little list of steps I would make in brewing if I could go back in time and re-do my process and the order in which I made up grades. This time, I lettered the steps so you can see how it works out.

So, if I could go back in time and re-do the brewing career. it would have been...

(Still as an extract brewer mind you)
A) Buy a pretty basic kit, and choose the option with 1 better bottle. The kit has a few key items that you will use for years. Better bottle, capper, bottling bucket, auto-siphon, bungs, beer thief, hydrometer, etc. Naturally, it includes a few items that you will never touch.
B) Next, throw away the one-step that came in the stupid kit, and buy PBW and Star-San.
C) I would also toss the useless analog thermometer, and buy a digital.
D) Next I would build a chiller. I prefer immersion (more so, whirlpool immersion, but that requires a pump).
E) Then move to full wort boils (which it sounds like you can already do). This requires a minimum of a 7 Gallon kettle, and I really like the SQ 14 burner.
F) Then fermentation temperature control (chamber, digital controller, ferm-wrap, carboy cap thermowell).
G) Next would have been yeast health (2000 ml flask, stir plate, oxygenation kit, small investment in yeast nutrients, a book to explain nuances of liquid yeast, and this link - http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html ).
H) Finally, I would have bought a large carbon filter and the appropriate hose to deliver water to the system. There was an interesting interview on the BN with Lagunitas. They pointed out that we all have access to the same ingredients; same malt, hops, yeast, etc. The biggest variables from brewery to brewery is the brewer and the water. I agree; embrace your water. Carbon filter and let it ride.

Now start to think about all-grain (and with that, get some software to help with recipes/calculations on brew day.) There is not really that much needed.
I/J (one is useless without the other) Buy your own mill (it is the only way to guarantee consistancy) I like the Barley Crusher.
I/J Build your MLT & HLT - I really prefer coolers, but SS vessels that can be directly heated have merit as well - additional burners may be required to do this.
Invest about 5 batches into learning a process. Batch/Fly sparge; whatever. Each have their own benefits. Figure out what you can be most consistent with.

This is a good point to add some toys that make life easier.
K) Refractometer - a lot less hassle than the hydrometer. I'll plug BobbyM. I didn't buy mine from him, but should have.
L) pH meter - I don't own one yet, but it is next on the list.
M) Kegging system - Also do not own one yet, and won't say why, but rhymes with "my wife won't let me".

N) Now start to think about fitting that gear into a rig. Personally, I love the design of the B3 1550, so I simply built one and inserted the pieces (most of which you would have already had if you followed my flow chart above). All you would have to buy is building materials, a pump, a GFCI, some QD's, and tubing (which you may already have had). Why do I like this design? Small foot print, no ladder required, 1 pump, and built to fly-sparge (which I do).


.........................................

So, according to my list, the oxygen/aeration issue also falls in as step "G". I have started referring to fermentation temp control, sanitation, and full wort boils w/ rapid chilling as givens, and not really upgrades. I think those things are the minimal requirements to make consistent beer with minimal flaws. An extract batch that focuses on those key aspects will blow an all-grain brewer who is in over his head out of the water; all day long.

So yes, I agree, the Oxygen Kit is around letter "G" on the investment list. However, as another member mentioned, it should be about 26 letters/steps before the words "stainless" or "conical".

Joe

 

[Beer_Guy]

This is a note to others like me with only a small amount of cash to invest at a time.

Last summer I was running around early on brew day getting water and Ice. I saw a pet store and jumped in. I had just read about the testing Reelale quoted above so I picked up an air pump, hose and stone. Total cost was under $20. (To be honest, SWMBO would not have been happy with a $50 investment, but less than $20 was not even flinched at.)

Now I just drop the air stone in the bucket as soon as it is full of wort and get busy cleaning up. The testing showed 5 minutes of air pump gave 8ppm, so I let it go at least 10 minutes.

I did this on a whim, but the improvement in my brews over shaking and splashing was beyond belief.

 

[eastoak]

i've been trying to get an oxygenation set up going and found the little red canisters at home despot. when i called airgas they said they don't fill those little canisters and the welding shops all refered me to airgas. i scratched that idea and bought a medical O2 canister with a regulator on ebay only to find that airgas won't fill those without a prescription or some certificate of some sort. where are people getting the little red canisters filled?

 

[Beezer94]

There is O2 in the "little red" canister when you buy it for $5-8. They are not meant to be reused. They are light as it is very little gas inside, but they are good for several batches of oxygenation.

 

[Pilgarlic]

There is O2 in the "little red" canister when you buy it for $5-8. They are not meant to be reused. They are light as it is very little gas inside, but they are good for several batches of oxygenation.

About how many is "several"?

 

[agroff383]

You are crazy, and you are missing out. There, I said it.

I started a thread last month addressing this exact bogus philosophy.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/i-completely-underestimated-role-oxygen-235663/

For a little background, I had prescribed to the "shaking and splashing must be good enough" philosophy for almost two years. I would say this is the practice used by 95% of the members on this board, so it must be good enough, right? Right? I read the Yeast book, and curiosity got the best of me, so I bought an oxygenation kit from Williams Brewing just to see if "thousands-of-years-old" ideas still = best practice. Read my thread - they do not.

I was doing everything possible to make the best beer I could. Yeast starters, pitching rate, repeatable brewing process, temperature controlled fermentation, excellent cleaning and sanitation - the only thing I was short cutting was oxygenation. What a freaking mistake!

I sampled my third bottle from my first oxygenated batch last night, and at 2-1/2 weeks, it is literally head and shoulders above anything else I have ever made. I was happy with my beer before, but I am thrilled with it now. It is not my first time with this recipe either, and since I dial in fermentation temperatures, and stick with one house yeast, I really eliminate many possible variables batch to batch. The only process change I made was the addition of oxygen. A simple 60 second burst through a diffusion stone right before I pitched.

"But I have just shaken my carboy for years with good results!" is really bad advice. If I see another person couple that statement with RDWHAHB....well....I won't be impressed.

The $45 it costs for an oxygen kit will not break anyone, but who would be willing to buy it if everyone tells them it is unneccessary? I believe this single purchase of an oxygen kit had a bigger positive effect than anything else I have done since I started brewing (excluding sanitation and fermentation temperature control - because those are neccessities, not luxeries).

Buy an oxygen kit - then report your results. I guarantee you will be thrilled you did. It is impossible to critique the effect of oxygen if you have never used it. I have used both methods, and the results were shocking. I guess I just didn't expect too much, because so many freaking people told me it can't make much of a difference!

If you ask me, the crazy person is the one who has never tried a method, yet is confident enough to rip apart its merits.

So who is crazy?

Joe

this just convinced me to buy a oxygen setup. im looking for the edge wherever i can get it after doing this for over 2 years. i like my beer but im always improving, its never good enough! thanks!

 

[Golddiggie]

About how many is "several"?

As per the description on William's Brewing's site about the setup...

"...disposable 1.4 ounce left hand thread bottles can be purchased at any hardware store in the welding or brazing section. One bottle will aerate 20 to 30 batches."

You're only hitting the wort for ~60 seconds from the bottle... The bottles are made to be used with map gas welding rigs, so they should last for a reasonable amount of time... Of course, you'll need to leave the regulator connected to the canister once you've installed it, but that shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Pilgarlic]

Thanks, GD, for doing my research!

 

[Randar]

Of course, you'll need to leave the regulator connected to the canister once you've installed it, but that shouldn't be an issue.

Why do you say you need to leave the regulator connected? I have not found that to be the case whatsoever and I believe the Benzomatic canister label even mentions removing regulators and replacing the protective cap when not in service.

And just confirming that the tanks seem to last damn near forever... 20-30 batches is probably about right.

 

[eastoak]

There is O2 in the "little red" canister when you buy it for $5-8. They are not meant to be reused. They are light as it is very little gas inside, but they are good for several batches of oxygenation.

thanks.

 

[Zamial]

The following is cut and pasted from Wyeast. Direct link: http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_oxygenation.cfm

Oxygenation

Oxygen is a critical additive in brewing. Oxygen is the only necessary nutrient not naturally found in wort. Adding adequate oxygen to wort requires a fundamental understanding of why yeast need oxygen, how much oxygen they need, and how to get oxygen into solution and the factors affecting solubility of oxygen.
Why Yeast Need Oxygen

Yeast use oxygen for cell membrane synthesis. Without oxygen, cell growth will be extremely limited. Yeast can only produce sterols and certain unsaturated fatty acids necessary for cell growth in the presence of oxygen.

Inadequate oxygenation will lead to inadequate yeast growth. Inadequate yeast growth can cause poor attenuation, inconsistent or long fermentations, production of undesirable flavor and aroma compounds, and produces yeast that are not fit for harvesting and re-pitching.

How Much Oxygen?

Oxygen requirement is variable depending on: yeast strain employed, original gravity of wort, and wort trub levels.

Some yeast strains have higher oxygen requirements than others. It is generally safe to assume that you need at least 10ppm of oxygen. 10ppm will supply adequate oxygen in most situations. Over-oxygenation is generally not a concern as the yeast will use all available oxygen within 3 to 9 hours of pitching and oxygen will come out of solution during that time as well. Under-oxygenation is a much bigger concern.

High original gravity (>1.065) wort, in addition to increasing osmotic stress on yeast, can cause problems with achieving adequate levels of dissolved oxygen. As the gravity of wort increases, solubility of oxygen decreases. Increased temperatures also decrease the solubility of wort.

The unsaturated fatty acids found in wort trub can be utilized by yeast for membrane synthesis. If wort trub levels are low, yeast will need to synthesize more of these lipids and therefore will require more oxygen.

Methods of Aeration / Oxygenation

Homebrewers have several aeration/oxygenation methods available to them: siphon sprays, whipping, splashing, shaking, pumping air through a stone with an aquarium pump, and injecting pure oxygen through a sintered stone. We have tested all of these methods using a dissolved oxygen meter and have found that, when using air, 8 ppm of oxygen in solution is the best that you can achieve. Injecting oxygen through a stone will allow much higher dissolved oxygen levels. The chart below shows methods tested and the results.


Method DO ppm Time
Siphon Spray 4 ppm 0 sec.
Splashing & Shaking 8 ppm 40 sec.
Aquarium Pump w/ stone 8 ppm 5 min
Pure Oxygen w/ stone 0-26ppm 60 sec (12ppm)

It was concluded that pumping compressed air through a stone is not an efficient way to provide adequate levels of DO. Traditional splashing and shaking, although laborious, is fairly efficient at dissolving up to 8 ppm oxygen. To increase levels of oxygen, the carboy headspace can be purged with pure oxygen prior to shaking. The easiest and most effective method remains injecting pure oxygen through a scintered stone.

The morale of the story: If you are going to buy anything for aeration you may as well just spend up for the O2 or just keep on shaking it.

 

[Golddiggie]

Why do you say you need to leave the regulator connected? I have not found that to be the case whatsoever and I believe the Benzomatic canister label even mentions removing regulators and replacing the protective cap when not in service.

And just confirming that the tanks seem to last damn near forever... 20-30 batches is probably about right.

I've just always left those canisters connected. But, that was when it was part of a welding system. If the canister will seal up again if you remove the regulator, like a propane torch will, then it's all good to remove it (probably better too)...

I was thinking they were more like the paintball gun CO2 canisters, or the small CO2 cartridges... Thinking about it more, and looking back, I can see how you would be able to remove the regulator from them without issue, provided they are designed that way... I guess I'll find out pretty soon, since I might be picking one up later today...

 

[Montanaandy]

You will wear down the threads if you disconnect it each time after use. I just leave mine attached and clean and sanitize it so it is ready for the next batch.

 

[njnear76]

Oxygenation is pretty important step. If you are going to shake. Shake a lot. I would say pour back and forth 10-20 times. This is obviously hellish on the back.

I've had good luck with siphoning my wort and employing a venturi tube. The only drawback is that it can take quite awhile to transfer the wort, since the siphon loses suction occasionally.

The venturi tube has worked well for me though. It takes usually 2-3 days before I see those lovely fermentation bubbles. Although that used to worry me a bit, I think it is a sign that there is enough oxygen in there.

Brief Edit:
The 2-3 days probably has a lot to do with my fermentation temperatures. I ferment my ales typically at 55-60F and in a water bath to boot. A lot of CO2 can be absorbed at that temperature. Not to mention that slows the yeast a little bit.

 

[Golddiggie]

I usually have active fermentation sign within 12-18 hours of pitching the yeast... That's been using the auto-siphon (before installing the ball valve in my kettle) with even shorter delays since getting the wort into the primary via the ball valve.

It's going to be interesting to see what introducing pure O2 into the wort does...

 

[ayoungrad]

I'm close to trying one out myself...

 

[MNDan]

A key point that isn't mentioned in the Wyeast info:


Some British brewers "drop" their fermenting wort up to a day after adding yeast. How effective is this for adding oxygen? And how late can wort be oxygenated?

Response from Dr. Clayton Cone:
The optimum time to add oxygen to the fermentation is about 12 - 24 hours into the fermentation.. Active Dry Beer Yeast(does) and re-pitched yeast (usually) have enough lipids for two to three generations. It is at that time the budding yeast can most efficiently use the oxygen to continue to bud and also produce enough lipids to protect itself against the higher levels of alcohol. This is especially true with high gravity brewing.

 

[Montanaandy]

Some say boiling is good for cleaning. And I'm under the impression that positive pressure on the stone prior to putting it into any liquid keeps the liquid on the exterior and out of the pores. The only time I don't pressurize the stone is when I soak it in a bucket of starsan. I start the O2 before I remove the wand from the sanitizer and submerge the stone in the wort. I keep the 02 flowing while I rinse in hot water. Rinse, repeat. So far so good.

We have always put the stone + tube in a bucket of hot sudsy water and open it up for a couple of seconds. Rinse it off and then do the same thing in a solution of Star San. Clean. Never have had an infection.

 

[GodsStepBrother]

I just ordered the oxygen kit, so I can see the difference.