storm1477
Active Member
I wish I had seen that earlier. It would have made my connections a LOT easier.
Thanks for the link.
Thanks for the link.
I have an oster and it fits two cornys with the 5lb CO2 tank resting on the shelf that covers the compressor.
No way you are going to fit a 10lb tank in there.
You could have it outside the fridge and just drill an additional hole.....
I was able to fit a 10lb tank in mine with little problems. I will post pictures soon. Entire conversion took a couple hours.
Edit: To clarify...that is a 10lb tank and 2 cornys.
I've got the Oster and I looked for the same info. AFAIK there are no coolant lines on the top. No thread I've read has mentioned a "uh oh, there is a coolant line up top". I'm not positive about 2/3 the way back though that would probably look better and give you less lines directly on top of the kegs, it's tight in there.
I drilled my hole dead center and had no issues. Good luck!
EDIT: I can look for the post if you like but in these forums I saw an alternative to using a comp fan (which I'm using) which used copper for passive cooling. Thread your beer lines in the tower through the copper pipe down into the fridge kept the lines frosty. Copper was more expensive when I looked into that option, maybe it's worth while now.
I just recently converted an Oster 5.0 unit and I built a cooling system fan box after seeing a post on flickr. IMHO, it was a big waste of time....didn't keep my tower cool and took up a bunch of space.
I built a cooling box because I got a thermometer with two probes, one in the tower and one in the box. The tower was consistently about 10-15 degrees warmer than the box, and now with the fan it's about 5 degrees warmer. Worth it IMHO.
Either either a 5V or 12V converter (I forget). The fan will have 2 wires and the converter will have two wires (after cutting off any connectors). One way the fan will spin, the other will not. You have a 50/50 chance of getting it right . If it doesn't work the first time swap the wires and try again.
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