Optimal PID settings for Inkbird ipb 16

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Sidman

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I have changed out a couple of elements since I first got this controller. I started using an element from brew hardware but ended up burning that one up. Then I started using a store bought 240 4500 w element but found I got a lot of scorching. I finally replaced my rims element with another 120 v 1500 W from brew hardware. I ran the auto tune and found I could hold a mash temp within reason but could not get to 168 for a mash out. Went through the menu today and found the pid settings were WAY off the default - like 9999 vs 30 default. Has anyone identified optimal settings for control period, proportional band, intergral time and derivative time? Not sure if I had still had old (bad) settings from a previous autotune.
 
Mine worked perfect right out of the box with my 10 gallon kettle Herms system and 1650watt elements. Just had to adjust temp for aftermarket rtd probes
 
I would love to see what settings everyone is using also. I have a hard time understanding the instructions, for what all the different setting and options actually do.
 
P-30
I-1
D-300

Works fine for me in Strangebrew Elsinore software (no autotune) for 7-10gal and 1800w RIMS. I found these suggested numbers in an anonymous random internet post, plugged them in, and kept on trucking. There is no magic in the PID settings for what we're doing. There are myriads of combinations that will work for heating a big slug of liquid and maintaining the temp.

Edit: you can also just pick a P, then do a little math to get an I and a D with Ziegler Nichols method.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ziegler–Nichols_method
 
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thanks i just got one of these and have not figured out how to fine tune the setting for home brewing.

I just check out the ziegler web site and have no clue how to use that kind of math problem. I guess i will just stick with your recommended numbers and see what happens. :)
 
P-30
I-1
D-300

Works fine for me in Strangebrew Elsinore software (no autotune) for 7-10gal and 1800w RIMS. I found these suggested numbers in an anonymous random internet post, plugged them in, and kept on trucking. There is no magic in the PID settings for what we're doing. There are myriads of combinations that will work for heating a big slug of liquid and maintaining the temp.

Edit: you can also just pick a P, then do a little math to get an I and a D with Ziegler Nichols method.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ziegler–Nichols_method

Few questions

ctl = 1 (seems ok)
P = 30 (since 50 is the default wouldn't you want this to be higher like 80 i would think. This is the response speed and adjustment accuracy of the sys will be improved per the instructions.)
I = 1 (this seems way too low)
d = 300 (seem ok)
 
LOL

I've brewed with those settings for at least three years now. No need for me to change at this point.

Thanks though.
 
Well I guess I will try them out to see

Yes, sorry, I thought you were telling me I needed to change them. Yeah, there's no way to just look at the numbers and tell if they will work or not. Trial and error, and close enough is good enough in this instance.

You won't even end up with the same final PID parameters if you do 2 different autotunes on the same system.....
 
So FWIW and out of curiosity..... I went into my other PIDs to see what the settings were in different systems. Both of these were autotuned.

Sous vide pot (1500w element and about 3 gal recirculating water)
P 120
I 277
D 6

Salt bath brass case annealer (500w lead smelter pot with about 1 cup of salt @ 900F)
P 6
I 31
D 7
 
I just left them at whatever defaults were set and let her rip. Seems to be working fine.
 
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