Opinions Needed On My Electric Brewery Plans

[raskal]

Why not just have the long ferrule welded in the

Anyways, that is what I just ordered to install my elements in BK and HLT. Your way just seems like a lot of extra work unless you are trying to save on the cost of the NPS element adapter. The benefit with that adapter is the threads will be correct for any element you use (NPS vs NPT).

Yea Ive seen that a couple times, it seems a bit pricy, and I saw one thread that questioned its ability to keep water out. Id love to see some pictures once you get it, as it seems tailor made for this application. And by time I make everything the cost might be negligible, not sure yet. I haven't seen that adapter in use so I look forward to it

This seems like it may be a decent way to go also
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guard-kit.html

 

[sethhobrin]

Yea Ive seen that a couple times, it seems a bit pricy, and I saw one thread that questioned its ability to keep water out. Id love to see some pictures once you get it, as it seems tailor made for this application. And by time I make everything the cost might be negligible, not sure yet. I haven't seen that adapter in use so I look forward to it

This seems like it may be a decent way to go also
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guard-kit.html

I already have 1 of them from the RIMS tube. It is HIGH quality and constructed just for this purpose. I don't see how it could possibly leak. It has NPS threads so it fits correct instead of NPT threads. Add a little teflon tape and it will never leak. Can also add high temp food grade silicone to protect the tip and create a seal as well(double protection and rust protection).

I've been going in circles for a month as well until I decided on this. The cost ended up being negligible after all was said and done including time spent.

It will be several weeks before I get the 2 new ones I have on order welded in. I'll be sure to come back and post pictures but I am fairly certain it will work great.

 

[raskal]

Thanks for passing that along, I think you may be correct. So then you just weld in a short 1.5" to the keg and you're good to go? I need to get my hands on that 5500W element to see how it would fit, Im guessing with a little squeeze it would go right through that 1.5" TC.

 

[raskal]

BTW, here is that link. Take it with a grain of salt I suppose

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=286037&sid=c198143c7a7f803827c02f840b4ff714#286037

Next page shows he added some silicone and is now happy...so maybe there is just an extra step needed to piece of mind.

 

[sethhobrin]

Thanks for passing that along, I think you may be correct. So then you just weld in a short 1.5" to the keg and you're good to go? I need to get my hands on that 5500W element to see how it would fit, Im guessing with a little squeeze it would go right through that 1.5" TC.

I went with the LONG ferrule. I read in some other threads that a short one can be more difficult to weld as you need it far enough away to put on the clamp.

I am using straight folding elements though. this entire thing doesn't necessary work well with the Rippled ones. i don't see a difference between the two really. I just got the fold back version of the ones Kal uses.

You can always go for the 2" TRI CLover Ferrule and 2" Tri Clover element adapter but it is custom build and costs even more. 1.5" seems to work fine for straight elements.

EDIT: thanks for the link Raskal I had not even saw that. Seems like he is VERY happy. From what I have seen of the element adapter on my RIMS tube it is as awesome as he says and should work well and be safe and clean install.

here is the elements i ordered. they make 5500watt versions too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YUDSI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[raskal]

Some good into and pictures here

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/long-vs-short-tri-clamp-ferrule-314797/

I tried to use the Camco 02963 (5500W) ripple element with the Brewer's Hardware 1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter and it doesn't fit. It's not an issue with the ferrule but the adapter. I have both a long and short ferrule but before I even get to the ferrule, the ripple element gets stuck.

It seems like it's real close and possibly could work with a little bending of the element but I'll probably go with a straight element.

 

[sethhobrin]

Some good into and pictures here

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/long-vs-short-tri-clamp-ferrule-314797/

Yup. Why i went with the straight element. Ripple is not worth the hassle but thats just MY opinion.

Thanks for posting that thread on electric brewing. I hadn't seen that. Seems like someone else had good experience with this adapter.

 

[raskal]

Well, the order is in:
1.5" Tri Clover Ferrule - Long
1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp
1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter
1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone

and 2 of the straight amazon elements.

 

[sethhobrin]

Well, the order is in:
1.5" Tri Clover Ferrule - Long
1"/1.5" Tri Clover Clamp
1.5" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter
1.5" Tri Clover Gasket Silicone

and 2 of the straight amazon elements.

Looks like you and I are destined to succeed or fail together on this one. My order was for the exact same.

 

[raskal]

Looks like you and I are destined to succeed or fail together on this one. My order was for the exact same.

 

[raskal]

Well got the final hard water line in

My order from brewers hardware shipped,

and orders are shipped from Auber and elecdirect for the panel components.

Ill post pictures once all those are in.

next up is plumbing the table, installing a drain system and wiring for the control panel.

 

[raskal]

Some updates from this weekend.

Got my order from Brewers Hardware, looks like quality parts, the tri-clamp heating element is going to work GREAT!

Then we got started on the mounting system for the table. Using some fence clamps, 2x4's and a 2x8 We came up with a great way to mount all the plumbing without damaging the table

Here we mounted the CFC off a hose holder.

Then because if youre going to do something, you might as well do it better we went and plumbed in a water system for the kettles. The system for the BK will only be used for cleaning, so it is offset so its not over the kettle when its boiling. We also cut a pour spout so it wont splash. Going from 1/2" copper to 1" PVC will slow down the flow rate so it wont splash all over the place when water is added.

In the last picture you can see we will be mounting another 2x4 that will hold the water filter and the valves that control flow to the kettles or the CFC.

 

[Malric]

Hey Raskal, I may have missed this somewhere. Did you have a source for the ss table?

 

[raskal]

Hey Raskal, I may have missed this somewhere. Did you have a source for the ss table?

I found it on craigs. Search for "prep table" or if you have any restaurant supply / auction places near you these are always there. I got this for far less then building a wood stand and its much easier to clean.

 

[raskal]

Have been making some progress. Got the TC ferrules burned in yesterday. Anyone in northern Colorado looking for some welding work should call Jack Daniels @ 970-214-2692 He did a great job at an affordable price.

Next is a teaser from lschiavo who is wiring up my control panel. Looks like an Auber switch went bad so im in contact to get that replaced

Spoke with my HVAC buddy, next up is getting the hood and ventilation in.

 

[lschiavo]

Hey, I recognize that panel. No switch yet. Hopefully tomorrow.

The brewery is looking good! What will be your first brew?

 

[raskal]

Im not sure about the first one yet, half wants to do something easy to test everything out, the other half of me wants to push the system. I did see one for a lemon/lime hefe that looks interesting.

 

[raskal]

Thanks to lschiavo there is 34lbs of electrical goodies headed my way. Spoke with my HVAC friend, going to work on plumbing the hood system and get the electrical done. Then just need to wire in the panel, elements and pumps.

 

[stevehaun]

Pretty weld!

 

[raskal]

Pretty weld!

Guy did a great job, he used to weld for HP, then was doing work for New Belgium.

 

[lschiavo]

Thanks to lschiavo there is 34lbs of electrical goodies headed my way. Spoke with my HVAC friend, going to work on plumbing the hood system and get the electrical done. Then just need to wire in the panel, elements and pumps.

Looks like it halfway there now! There is a small brown paper bag mixed in with the brown paper packing. That's your temp probe and spare parts...so don't throw it out! I thought about putting a few brews in there but a beer soaked brew panel probably wouln't work so well.

I'm looking forward to some updates. Especially once you're actually brewing. It should all work first try...if not...you know where to find me. Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

[raskal]

So a lot going on so its been a bit so I thought I would update progress. I got my panel from lschiavo, and all the cords. The Tri-clamp element enclosures are here as well as the rest of the bits like quick disconnects and hoses. Now waiting on my buddy to wire everything up, then comes the first wet test!

 

[lschiavo]

So a lot going on so its been a bit so I thought I would update progress. I got my panel from lschiavo, and all the cords. The Tri-clamp element enclosures are here as well as the rest of the bits like quick disconnects and hoses. Now waiting on my buddy to wire everything up, then comes the first wet test!

Glad to see you back. I was hoping you didn't get electrocuted or something.

I saw a thread where you can add a 3 position switch for reset and pause on the timer. I would have suggested it earlier but I never used one of those timers before. It should be easy to add and seems like it would make the timer a bit easier to use. Just a thought ...

 

[smoothlarryhughes]

What rating terminal strips do you recommend? Do they all need to be rated for 30A if it is running off a 30A breaker?

 

[lschiavo]

What rating terminal strips do you recommend? Do they all need to be rated for 30A if it is running off a 30A breaker?

Definitely. Only downsize your components if they are protected upstream by a breaker or a fuse and the components match or exceed that rating.

 

[smoothlarryhughes]

Kal's setup is running off a 30A breaker, but he uses 20A terminal strips in his build. I'm trying to understand why this works. Can anyone chime in?

 

[mcl]

He has a 7A fuse to protect it.

 

[smoothlarryhughes]

His site says the 7A fuse is used to protect the smaller 14 gauge wires. I'm wondering how many Amps are drawn across each hot leg of the heating elements?

 

[lschiavo]

His site says the 7A fuse is used to protect the smaller 14 gauge wires. I'm wondering how many Amps are drawn across each hot leg of the heating elements?

I'm sure the element is tapped off ahead of the fusing. A 15A fuse will protect #14 just fine and its easier to find.

 

[smoothlarryhughes]

How many amps are being drawn on across each hot leg on a 5500 watt element? I'm just trying to understand...is it half the amperage or the full amperage? Sorry for all the questions...new to electric and trying to understand how everything is working. I'm looking to use the same wiring diagram in this thread and just curious which terminal strips to use and what gauge wires are needed.