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Brew went great!! Ended up with one barrel finished. My efficiency must have been amazing I used less grain and still overshot my OG at 31 gallons! System preformed wonderfully!!
 
I'm trying to decide what changes I can make to make the day a bit smoother. I'm thinking I might get a second pump and more hoses. Kind of minimize the amount of swapping. I have some pictures I need to upload and then I'll post them.
 
CoalCracker said:
Brew went great!! Ended up with one barrel finished. My efficiency must have been amazing I used less grain and still overshot my OG at 31 gallons! System preformed wonderfully!!

Great to hear! I also think a second pump would be nice rather than swapping lines all the time. I envy your system!
 
811C9DFF-FA4C-4401-9A22-5DDB9B0EB4DF-31927-000011C3255E65C4.jpg

Chiller worked great!

Heating up mash water:
4AE64888-FCD2-4C60-838B-3F30FDA4F896-34663-0000138403F3E2EC.jpg


Boiling 35 Gallons:
799AC5FC-5288-4182-8867-BFEB1148ECDC-34663-000013840C7A9983.jpg
 
Excellent build, very nice work! How vigorous was the boil with one 5500 watt element? What was your strike water volume and how long did it take the HLT to heat?
 
I filled the HLT up with 28 gallons of 53 degree water and it took about an hour to get to 170.

The boil was more of a rolling boil. However if I were to insulate the BK, I'd be able to get something more vigorous. I don't plan on doing large brews like that all the time and really would only do 25 gallons at most. So for a 25 gallon boil. I'm sure it would have been fairly vigorous.
 
CoalCracker, what did you use over the copper tubing? Did you post instructions in the DIY section? How much copper tubing did you use? I think 25 feet, Its an interesting counter-flow chiller?

14330_4997611097251_1737329752_n.jpg
 
CoalCracker, what did you use over the copper tubing? Did you post instructions in the DIY section? How much copper tubing did you use? I think 25 feet, Its an interesting counter-flow chiller?

the one in the pic is mine. i used the wiki article that i believe Bobby_M wrote. i could only find 20' sections of copper so i bought a 50' section and a 50' hot water hose and made 2. traded my buddy for an oxygen flow meter for the other one.

if you can solder, you can make this.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/How_to_make_a_Counter_Flow_Chiller
 
I can't add a second element for two reasons.

1. I don't have the proper electrical circuit.
2. My control panel can only control one at a time.

I built this system to be able todo up to 1 barrel. I will probably on average only do 15 gallon batches. It will boil and heat much faster at that volume.

I'm super happy that it was even able to get to a boil at 35 gallons. If I can jacket the bk when doing larger batches, it should get to be a more vigerous boil. I have to construct a hop spider now. 1.5lbs of hops in the boil really makes a mess
 
Well right when I thought I was done the brewery I come up with more ideas. So two upgrades.

1. Going to build a whirlpool into the kettle.
2. Going to place a CIP valve in the bottom of the kettle. This valve is going to be a 110v electric ball valve that will be hooked up to my secondary pump switch on the panel. Once I'm done filling fermenters, I'll open up that valve, get the trub cone outta there. Then start washing everything out. All while draining the junk out. Duda Diesel carries stainless electric ball valves for a pretty good price. I won't have to get on my hands and knees to open a manual valve under the kettle.

So.... go ahead and add a few more bucks to the final talley! :mug:
 
CoalCracker said:
Well right when I thought I was done the brewery I come up with more ideas. So two upgrades.

1. Going to build a whirlpool into the kettle.
2. Going to place a CIP valve in the bottom of the kettle. This valve is going to be a 110v electric ball valve that will be hooked up to my secondary pump switch on the panel. Once I'm done filling fermenters, I'll open up that valve, get the trub cone outta there. Then start washing everything out. All while draining the junk out. Duda Diesel carries stainless electric ball valves for a pretty good price. I won't have to get on my hands and knees to open a manual valve under the kettle.

So.... go ahead and add a few more bucks to the final talley! :mug:

This got me thinking. Stainless conical with racking valve and heating elements to serve as BK? Patent pending lol
 
Actually found some valves on eBay for a bit cheaper and larger. Going to have to go with that. Plus free shipping. Probably going to order it next week. THEN i'll have to be done spending. Good thing the finacee thinks this thing is about 1000 bucks cheaper than what it actually was. muhahah.

Not going triclover on the dump valve. Probably going to plumb it even with the frame and then term the end with a disconnect of some sort and a larger hose. I haven't quite decided yet. Part of me says just to go with the triclamps for continuity, the other half is telling me save the money.
 
Ordered the actuated ball valve today. I'll probably work on drilling and flaring the holes this weekend for the whirlpool and the CIP dump valve.
 
damn, I did some moving around in photo bucket and I guess I broke them. I'll work on getting them back up.

Edit: All the pictures should be back up.
 
If like to know more about your heat times. When I win the lottery I plan on building a 3v single tier setup. Did you heat all your strike water at once? How long did it take from mashout to boil? If you were considering doing 1bbl batches often, do you think you'd want to upgrade your panel for a second element in the HLT and BK?
 
If like to know more about your heat times. When I win the lottery I plan on building a 3v single tier setup. Did you heat all your strike water at once? How long did it take from mashout to boil? If you were considering doing 1bbl batches often, do you think you'd want to upgrade your panel for a second element in the HLT and BK?

i don't think you'll get much heat out of 3 volts unless the amps are off the chart :ban:
 
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