Ah, forgot you were doing it in the starter. Man, that seems ike it might be harder to quantify. I wish you luck. If I can convert that spreadsheet for ya, I'll let you know.
broadbill, I thought that was implied. Is this more clear? I want this to be as simple as possible, for me and everybody.
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Different how?
How is the one you picked different than the other two?
Indicate more+ or less- If same, leave blank
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http://sciencebrewer.com/2013/11/12...iatus-an-experiment-yeast-aeration-of-course/
Looking forward to the results here.
Has anyone else come across this? This is the first I've seen of this and no one else is talking about this.
I will say I'm confused about the 6 samples (A-F) instead of just three...how many different ones will be in there? Are you giving all 6 to everybody or are there two sets of tasting samples?
Also, my understanding of a triangle test is that all they could all be the same, or they could all be different. Your question set only works for one beer being different than the other two. Furthermore, you have indicated as much to the taster by the way the question is stated. This may or may not influence how they judge the beer.
You don't have to do things identically but you have follow all the details given in the MOA. If you present 4 beers or 6 beers or don't randomize the order of presentation or allow color differences to be perceived when A is a different color than B then it isn't a triangle test and the numbers in the ASBC Table and the numbers computed by my spreadsheet don't apply. Other schemes may have statistical power comparable to the triangle test but the triangle test numbers won't fit.Lastly, if you are going to use AJ's speadsheet you need to run the test identically to how he did his; otherwise his calculations may not work on your setup.
Yes, amen to that. You really have to think your experiment through. If you are interested in telling whether A tastes better or not than B while A is darker than B then you have to obscure the color as the panelist will be able to tell A from B by the color if he is able to see it. If, OTOH, you want to know if OO darkens beer noticeably then you would want the panelist to be able to see it.Sorry to throw all of these variables into the mix; I'm beginning to understand how complicated taste tests can be!
" Moreover, olive oil will not dissolve in wort and must first be dissolved in 100% ethanol. For any homebrewers reading this – do not add a drop of olive oil to your beer. I had to weigh 1 gram of oil, dissolve it, and make a serial dilution until I had close to 0.1 ug/ml. Of this solution, I added 100 uls directly to the wort."
Has anyone else come across this? This is the first I've seen of this and no one else is talking about this. Where does this come from? The solubility of oil in water? This seems like an important part of testing this theory and I haven't seen it anywhere.
edit: is it possible to use stuff like vodka instead of ethanol?
Vodka is ethanol. Well ethanol and water mixed.
Yeah but i thought that the strenght/ABV should be ~100%.
So i dilute olive oil with vodka/whiskey etc. and add a miniscule amount to the wort before pitching? (when the wort is cool)
Considering there really isn't any evidence that olive oil has an effect on the production of beer, why would you add it in the first place? Or are you also doing a comparison test?
I would add my own piss (in this miniscule amounts we are talking about here) to my beer if someone would say it helps oxygenating my wort.
By the way i want to add it because my wort oxygenating practices are sub par. (i just shake the carboy for a few seconds) And if olive really works it seems like it will be cheaper and safer than using oxygenating stones and pumps.
I already have vodka and olive oil, why shouldn't i try it? I will probably be able to do a comparison, i have some little 1 gal carboys since i am just in the process of upgrading from the stovetop (1 gal brews) to a 5 gal rig.
But what makes you think it will work when there's no evidence? When the guy who wrote the paper says it won't? When the brewery that tried using it (albeit in another way) stopped because their beer was sub par after using it? Why not spend $15 for a MixStir and get something that will definitely work? If you want to try OO, that's up to you. It's just hard for me to understand why.
I would add my own piss (in this miniscule amounts we are talking about here) to my beer if someone would say it helps oxygenating my wort.
By the way i want to add it because my wort oxygenating practices are sub par. (i just shake the carboy for a few seconds) And if olive really works it seems like it will be cheaper and safer than using oxygenating stones and pumps.
I already have vodka and olive oil, why shouldn't i try it? I will probably be able to do a comparison, i have some little 1 gal carboys since i am just in the process of upgrading from the stovetop (1 gal brews) to a 5 gal rig.
But what makes you think it will work when there's no evidence? When the guy who wrote the paper says it won't? When the brewery that tried using it (albeit in another way) stopped because their beer was sub par after using it? Why not spend $15 for a MixStir and get something that will definitely work? If you want to try OO, that's up to you. It's just hard for me to understand why.
I'll wait to be proven wrong and will admit it cheerily if the day ever comes. I would LOVE to be able to add OO and be done with it; unfortunately it doesn't seem to work, despite how much people want it to work.
But what makes you think it will work when there's no evidence? When the guy who wrote the paper says it won't? When the brewery that tried using it (albeit in another way) stopped because their beer was sub par after using it? Why not spend $15 for a MixStir and get something that will definitely work? If you want to try OO, that's up to you. It's just hard for me to understand why.
Why do you think your oxygenating practices are subpar? Do you have an actual problem with the beer you make?
The point here is it has been tried and it doesn't appear to have an effect. Go back and read the threads at least, at least see what has been done. We've argued this to death, only to have more people try more experiments....where are the results of those experiments by the way? My hope is that Denny and I goaded them enough that they would at least come back to rub our noses in it if they had positive results.The fact they haven't tells me they found no effect, just like the previous experiments.
Sure, maybe dissolving the OO in EtOH is the key to it all, but keep in mind some random blogger came up with that idea (sure, a smart science guy, but it is still untested). Again, previous studies suggest that it is unlikely.
I'll wait to be proven wrong and will admit it cheerily if the day ever comes. I would LOVE to be able to add OO and be done with it; unfortunately it doesn't seem to work, despite how much people want it to work.
Well i have read the thesis by Hull and to me the conclusion seemed like that olive oil "aerated" beer (but otherwise not aerated) was not too much different from the control beers which were aerated much better than anything i will ever be able to do at home. (they reached saturation)
So in my mind it looks like this in terms of fermentation quality:
professionally aerated beers>olive oil aerated beers>my beers
So i thought that using OO would still be an upgrade.
Well i have never been able to make a non-estery fermentation with US-05 yet while it is supposed to be clean. I have never seen higher krausen than 3/4 inch and that was just foam not that thick stuff i can see on the pictures and generally my beers need to spend more time in the bottle than the beers of the more experienced guys here. (my temp-control is pretty good)
I have read a few threads about using OO and the thesis i mentioned but i have never seen a test where non-aerated but OO added beer was compared with a non-aerated beer using liquid yeast. I think a test like this would be useful.
Well i have read the thesis by Hull and to me the conclusion seemed like that olive oil "aerated" beer (but otherwise not aerated) was not too much different from the control beers which were aerated much better than anything i will ever be able to do at home. (they reached saturation)
So in my mind it looks like this in terms of fermentation quality:
professionally aerated beers>olive oil aerated beers>my beers
So i thought that using OO would still be an upgrade.
Well i have never been able to make a non-estery fermentation with US-05 yet while it is supposed to be clean. I have never seen higher krausen than 3/4 inch and that was just foam not that thick stuff i can see on the pictures and generally my beers need to spend more time in the bottle than the beers of the more experienced guys here. (my temp-control is pretty good)
I have read a few threads about using OO and the thesis i mentioned but i have never seen a test where non-aerated but OO added beer was compared with a non-aerated beer using liquid yeast. I think a test like this would be useful.
I would add my own piss (in this miniscule amounts we are talking about here) to my beer if someone would say it helps oxygenating my wort.
By the way i want to add it because my wort oxygenating practices are sub par. (i just shake the carboy for a few seconds) And if olive really works it seems like it will be cheaper and safer than using oxygenating stones and pumps.
I already have vodka and olive oil, why shouldn't i try it? I will probably be able to do a comparison, i have some little 1 gal carboys since i am just in the process of upgrading from the stovetop (1 gal brews) to a 5 gal rig.
Wasnt Vances experiment done with the toothpick method? A microscopic amount of oil in 5 gallons?
From someone at New Belgium. in the original post
For the volume of wort we normally ferment, we would pitch about 4500L of yeast, and to that we would add around 300mL of olive oil. To translate that into a 5 gallon size, you would need to measure about 0.0000833mL of olive oil.
OK they were using 1mg/25 billion cells. Mr Malty says 5 gallons of 1.057 wort should be pitched with 198 billion cells. So thats 7.92 mg. Oleic acid is .895 g/mL so thats .0088 mL, about a fifth of a drop.
Somewhere in the thread, somebody calculated .083 mL. I checked it and it seemed right at the time. I dont remember how it was figured.
Looking at it another way, 2100hL is about 11000 five gal batches. 300ml/11000 is .027 mL, half a drop. Still in the ballpark. About a hundred times closer than someone at New Belgium.
From the original thesis:
as the amount of olive oil was increased with each trial, the fermentation performance improved. It is possible that the rate of fermentation and the ratio of esters to higher alcohols could be improved if the amount of olive oil addition were increased beyond the rate of 1 mg / 25 billion cells. For this brand, the increase in total esters was perceived as preferable by the flavor panel.
So, more is better, at least up to a point. And, if you read the thesis youll find that they added it to the yeast five hours before the pitch.
My point is that a microscopic amount in the wort isnt going to do anything.