OK so don't secondary ferment! But now What?

[ZmannR2]

So being here for a few days and reading everything I can, it seems about 80% of you recommend never transferring to a secondary. I'll follow suite then for this first batch I'm about 4 days into but I have a question:

How do you transfer to bottling bucket without picking up a bunch of gunk? Being that I WAS gonna be transferring from a glass carboy I figured I could see through the glass to avoid any solids like hops residues and whatnot. Now fom a bucket, do I just guess where they are and hover my siphon a few inches from the bottom? Does this really still produce a good clear product? It's an IPA so I know it won't be that clear anyways but just sayin'.

 

[Biscuits]

Everything will settle out to the bottom and as you get closer to the trub at the bottom you will be able to see it...especially with a light beer. Next time, just ferment in the glass carboy. But even if you do pick up some gunk...everything settles out eventually and your beer will be just fine.

Also, most people do not transfer to secondary..but I wouldn't say to NEVER transfer to secondary. In the case that you're adding fruit or racking onto some other post-fermentation flavor addition, some still transfer to secondary...especially if bulk aging.

 

[Homercidal]

I don't usually secondary. My method for filling the bottling bucket is basically:

Ferment completely
When the beer is clear enough for my tastes I start a siphon near the top of the beer in the fermenter and then slowly lower it until it's about 2 inches from the trub
Then I start carefully tilting the fermenter to keep as much beer on top of the racking cane inlet
When I think there is too much trub being sucked into the racking cane I pull out.

If I use a secondary, I more or less just jam the racking cane down in there and go. There isn't enough trub on the bottom to worry about sucking much up until the very end.

Your results are very dependent on the strain of yeast and your personal preference in beer clarity. Some strains are faster at flocculating than others. Some styles lend themselves to being somewhat cloudy.

 

[ThomasPaine]

I have found that the curve at the bottom of your carboy will make the very center have a lot less trub. You should be able to just hold it steady right above trub line.

 

[Clonefan94]

I bought one of those clips that holds my autosiphon inside the bucket. I usually start a few inches below the surface of the beer and slowly move it down as the beer moves down. Unless it's a stout or similar beer, I've never had an issue being able to see the trub as the beer nears the bottom of the bucket. This is actually the main reason I brew to 6 gallons. I always have at least a quart or so of good beer at the bottom of the bucket, but it helps a ton on not transferring any trub into my kegs. The cost is negligible for ingredients and it doesn't take me any more time to brew six gallons than it would 5. I don't like to waste beer, but it's worth the trade off, imo, for the clearer end product.

Also, get the bucket on an angle right away, using a wedge or book or something. I've found if you do it right away, those last few inches of beer are a lot clearer than if you wait until the last second to tip the bucket.

 

[ncbrewer]

I use the inverted cup on the bottom of the auto siphon (or racking cane when I used one). That helps a lot. After getting the siphon started, I lower it very slowly until a little sediment starts coming up, and then raise it until it stops. Then keep it at that level. That small amount of sediment for a few seconds won't hurt anything.

 

[m00ps]

Notice how the bottling bucket spigot is located like an inch from the bottom? Theres a reason for that

 

[DrunkleJon]

I bought one of those clips that holds my autosiphon inside the bucket. I usually start a few inches below the surface of the beer and slowly move it down as the beer moves down. Unless it's a stout or similar beer, I've never had an issue being able to see the trub as the beer nears the bottom of the bucket. This is actually the main reason I brew to 6 gallons. I always have at least a quart or so of good beer at the bottom of the bucket, but it helps a ton on not transferring any trub into my kegs. The cost is negligible for ingredients and it doesn't take me any more time to brew six gallons than it would 5. I don't like to waste beer, but it's worth the trade off, imo, for the clearer end product.

Also, get the bucket on an angle right away, using a wedge or book or something. I've found if you do it right away, those last few inches of beer are a lot clearer than if you wait until the last second to tip the bucket.

I did this when I used buckets. Just start with the siphon a couple inches or so in the beer (up to 2/3-3/4 of the way works too) Lower as you go. Otherwise you can start the siphon higher up and lower until you see a touch of haziness in the cane/tubing then lift just a smidge until it is clear again. Never had excess trub transfer when doing that.

When you get to the last inch or two start tipping the container and you should be able to see where you want to be to get every last delicious drop you can without being ridiculous.

 

[Clonefan94]

I did this when I used buckets. Just start with the siphon a couple inches or so in the beer (up to 2/3-3/4 of the way works too) Lower as you go. Otherwise you can start the siphon higher up and lower until you see a touch of haziness in the cane/tubing then lift just a smidge until it is clear again. Never had excess trub transfer when doing that.

When you get to the last inch or two start tipping the container and you should be able to see where you want to be to get every last delicious drop you can without being ridiculous.

On the bolded part, that's why I use a wedge from the start. It really seems, once you get down to that last little bit, it's a lot clearer than if you try to tip it at the last minute while siphoning.

 

[brewcat]

I never have a problem starting the auto siphon in the center on the bottom of carboys. Really most of what settles out should be pretty solid. The key is to not disturb it too much.

Your auto siphon should have a cap on the end. That cap acts as a filter so you only really siphon out the beer. It also raises the siphon above the trub.

 

[grevengrevs]

I'm a watcher when it comes to transferring, not to bottling bucket but to keg. I start it off and just lower the siphon as the beer level goes down.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Also,that trub on the bottom otherwise known as a yeast cake will be around an inch thick.That is your free yeast for your next 3 batches,dont dump it.Swirl it around till it makes a slurry.Dump it into mason jars and stick in the fridge.You will get around 3 jars.Dump one jar in your next batch.If you have a Target near you they have a 9 pack of mason jars for $10.A worthy investment

 

[TheHopfather]

The beer in this picture is an IPA that wasn't transferred into a secondary. You can make a clear beer without a secondary that is also an IPA. Have faith my friend, Homebrew Talk knows that it's talking about.

 

[ZmannR2]

Man, that's awesome guys! My mind is at ease once again! Thanks!

 

[DrunkleJon]

The beer in this picture is an IPA that wasn't transferred into a secondary. You can make a clear beer without a secondary that is also an IPA. Have faith my friend, Homebrew Talk knows that it's talking about.

Very true. Most of my beers come out clear like that. I feel that all it takes is a good boil, a reasonably quick chill and a little bit of time to cold crash (in packaging be it keg or bottle works).

 

[myerstyson]

I rarely secondary, unless it's a "big" beer. When bottling, I follow the method someone here at HBT wrote up (and the thread got sticky-ed) about bottling.

The evening before (or early morning if I forget), I move the bucket to my kitchen table, with something wedged under the back so that the bucket is tilted. I give it that night (or an hour or so in the morning) for the trub to settle from being moved.

Then I rack as others have described, watching the beer level go down and lowering the siphon into the beer as I go. I get as much of the beer as I can, and that tilt from the evening before helps.

Then I put the bottling bucket on a chair on the table, also tilted a bit. I crafted a doo-hickey from the curve of a racking cane and a very small stopper, insert it into the bottling bucket's spigot which allows me to get beer from below where the spigot is.

Then I bottle. I've had very clear beers, like TheHopfather's beautiful IPA above, since starting this process.

 

[Michigan_Wolfman]

+1 on all the previous comments. I rarely ever transfer to a secondary. My usual method is one week primary fermentation and one week secondary in the same fermenter. Before transferring to a bottling bucket, I take a hydrometer reading to be absolutely certain final gravity for the recipe has been attained. (Bottle bombs are no fun).

 

[TWAL]

The simple answer is to just keg everything!

 

[slym2none]

No thanks. I'd rather spend all that money you have to pay for kegging (kegs, something to keep it cool, electricity EVERY MONTH to run the thing that keeps it cool, taps, and CO² that has to be replaced regularly) on brewing more beer.

Bottling 4 lyfe!

 

[TWAL]

I rarely ever transfer to a secondary. My usual method is one week primary fermentation and one week secondary in the same fermenter. :

Soooo.... You're saying you leave your beer for two weeks in primary.

 

[Michigan_Wolfman]

Soooo.... You're saying you leave your beer for two weeks in primary.

Yep. There's nothing wrong with doing it that way. In fact, the recipe kit from my LHBS I've got fermenting right now suggests leaving the beer in one fermenter until ready to bottle.

 

[andy6026]

I like to secondary. I'm obviously in a minority. I tried not doing it for a while but I liked the results a lot better when i do, and since it adds very little to my clean up, I went back to doing them. As long as you're making yourself happy, do whatever you want.

 

[TWAL]

No thanks. I'd rather spend all that money you have to pay for kegging (kegs, something to keep it cool, electricity EVERY MONTH to run the thing that keeps it cool, taps, and CO² that has to be replaced regularly) on brewing more beer.

Bottling 4 lyfe!

It's not that much really and the fact that you can do closed transfers mean you are less likely to contaminate your beer.
It also depends on how much you're brewing.If you're brewing once every couple months not a big deal,if you're brewing on a bi-weekly basis then it's an issue.
I know more people that keg than bottle.

 

[slym2none]

If you know more that keg than bottle, then everyone must. My bad.



I'll still spend any money on beer instead of all that stuff I listed above.



Bottling 4 lyfe!

 

[TWAL]

Yep. There's nothing wrong with doing it that way. In fact, the recipe kit from my LHBS I've got fermenting right now suggests leaving the beer in one fermenter until ready to bottle.

No there isn't anything wrong w/ that,I have beer in there for 3 weeks at time on a simple pale ale without worry if I get too busy.

If you're referring to a secondary phase of fermentation (which is still the same vessel),one week in primary and one week in secondary in the same fermenter would be two weeks in primary.

When I use carboys i'll let the beer finish,about 2 and a half weeks before I take any readings as there is no reason to go in there and risk contamination before you see the yeast dropping out.If my reading is where I want it I will put the carboy in the kegerator for a day (or two) and transfer to keg.

 

[ballsy]

I'll still spend any money on beer instead of all that stuff I listed above.



Bottling 4 lyfe!

Brewing is a hobby so money will be spent no matter what...everyone just has different opinions on what to spend it on! Personally, there's no way I would still be brewing if I was bottling...WAY too much of a PIA for me. Once you experience the ease of cleaning and filling one container vs 50 plus capping, there's no going back haha...plus you get fully carbonated beer 48hrs later if you force carb (as well as full control over the vol CO2). I brew almost monthly (36 batches in 30 mths brewing) and fill my 5lb CO2 tank once per year. Costs about $18 to fill I think? Once you invest in the keg set up it's really not bad to upkeep.

 

[andy6026]

Another advantages to kegging is that you don't have to clean up a bunch of bottles whenever you host some friends. Each person gets one glass and then you can pop them in the dishwasher.

Since kegging I've not looked back. But to each his own.

 

[filthyastronaut]

Using a secondary is like any other technique with brewing, it has some advantages and drawbacks. For many, the drawbacks outweigh the advantages for using a secondary. I personally only ever use one if a beer isn't ready to bottle and I want to use the larger 6.5 gallon fermenter for a new fermentation, or if I don't want a beer to sit on the primary trub when bulk aging the batch. The times I have, though, I don't have to be as concerned with being a siphon ninja and not sucking up too much trub, because it will have more time to condition anyway. And then once I am transferring to the bottling bucket, there isn't much debris to worry about.

In short, go ahead and just primary unless you have a good reason to use a secondary.

 

[TWAL]

 

[dstockwell]

Notice how the bottling bucket spigot is located like an inch from the bottom? Theres a reason for that

Yep, my FV and bottling bucket have a spigot.

 

[slym2none]

Brewing is a hobby so money will be spent no matter what...everyone just has different opinions on what to spend it on! Personally, there's no way I would still be brewing if I was bottling...WAY too much of a PIA for me. Once you experience the ease of cleaning and filling one container vs 50 plus capping, there's no going back haha...plus you get fully carbonated beer 48hrs later if you force carb (as well as full control over the vol CO2). I brew almost monthly (36 batches in 30 mths brewing) and fill my 5lb CO2 tank once per year. Costs about $18 to fill I think? Once you invest in the keg set up it's really not bad to upkeep.

My opinion is still valid, no?

I just see so much hate on bottling. But when I voice it, I get backlash.

But it won't stop me from expressing it where I can. Note, I don't go into kegging-problem threads & tell people they wouldn't have those problems if they bottled. I wait until someone asks the question where I can reasonably voice my opinion.

And now I have done so.

 

[Kee]

Spend your money how you wish,doesn't mean the rest of us need to follow suit.
O.P. Said no secondary asked what he could do I suggested kegging it..

Do you also have a problem w/ people driving ?
I assume you ride a bike everywhere so you can save money for brewing there too..

I choose to spend some of the extra I make.
Keep bottling,if that's what you enjoy then that's fine,I'd rather spend the time it takes bottling to do anything else.

A keg transfer takes me less than an hr including sanitizing,purging and cleaning after I fill.
If I so choose,I spent more of my money not brewing on a counter pressure filler so I can hook up to one of the kegs I bought and fill some bottles or a growler for a party.

My "life",my money,my choice.

P.s.- I ferment in and transfer from a stainless conical that wasn't cheap.

One way is not "better" than the other. Both have advantages and disadvantages. I do both.

 

[slym2none]

Spend your money how you wish,doesn't mean the rest of us need to follow suit.

And the same can be said of people who suggest kegging. "Doesn't mean the rest of us need to follow suit."

I am only offering my opinion.

Do you also have a problem w/ people driving ?
I assume you ride a bike everywhere so you can save money for brewing there too..

Now you are just being silly.

 

[thunderwagn]

My opinion is still valid, no?

I just see so much hate on bottling. But when I voice it, I get backlash.

But it won't stop me from expressing it where I can. Note, I don't go into kegging-problem threads & tell people they wouldn't have those problems if they bottled. I wait until someone asks the question where I can reasonably voice my opinion.

And now I have done so.

I feel your bottling love :fro: I actually enjoy bottling day

 

[TexasDroughtBrewery]

Honestly, I agree that everyone can have their own opinion and both keg and bottling have advantages and disadvantages.

Personally, I have never bottled the thought of it turned me off and I really liked the idea of having draft beer on hand at the house. :rockin: But I have ran into a few snags and serious learning curves on the way its not all roses until you know what your doing (just like anything).

I have saved a few bottles here recently to give it a try maybe a couple of six packs and put the rest in the keg just to see if there is a flavor difference and to experience that part of the hobby I hear so much debate about.

 

[ballsy]

My opinion is still valid, no?

I just see so much hate on bottling. But when I voice it, I get backlash.

But it won't stop me from expressing it where I can. Note, I don't go into kegging-problem threads & tell people they wouldn't have those problems if they bottled. I wait until someone asks the question where I can reasonably voice my opinion.

And now I have done so.

I was agreeing with both sides....everybody has their own reasons in all aspects of brewing from equipment to technique...you choose to bottle b/c you'd rather not spend extra $$ on kegging set up. Nothing wrong with that. My reasoning to not bottling is due to excessive time and effort spent with it, I had money I could throw towards used kegs, picnic taps, and a used freezer on craigslist so I did. The one thing I do miss from bottling is that the batch lasted a lot longer than the cold draft beer I now have in my garage

 

[Brews-Lee]

Looking for some advice for my specific situation: I am fermenting in essentially a bottling bucket (7.9g bucket w/spigot), and it is fairly opaque so it is a bit difficult to see inside. Also, when I transferred the boiled wort into the bucket/fermenter on brew day, I was lacking a strainer, so all the hops & hot break material was transferred into the fermenter as well. (Details of the brew, aal-grain IPA, 1.068 OG, w/ 5oz hops.) Would transferring to a secondary help much? The spigot is low enough that a bunch of the trub will likely come through when transferring...in my guess anyway. Also, when using a fermentor w/spigot to transfer, does tipping help at all? (Doesn't seem like it would really.)

You input is appreciated!

For the record, this is what I am using to ferment (with spigot attached)
http://www.homebrewing.org/30L-HDPE-Fermenter-79-gal_p_5834.html

 

[ZmannR2]

Honestly I think I'll do both as I only will buy 1 5 gallon keg and any extra beer I brew I'll just bottle.

 

[hlmbrwng]

Have people here found that they have problems keeping the grub from being siphoned when they have a low-flocculant yeast?

 

[TWAL]