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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I can't speak for everybody, but when I combed through the thread I think I noticed most recent recipes settling in something like:
~60-85% base malt
~15-35% wheat/oats/spelt/etc
Lightly adding Honey malt/carafoam/carapils/crystal20-40 to preference

~15-30 IBUs, 6-8oz post boil, 6-10oz dry hop. (oz for 5ish gallon batches)

Perhaps the biggest change many people are doing post OP is cold crash/soft crash before dry hop and noticing less hop burn.

Popular yeasts include Dry Hop, Juice, Verdant, East Coast Ale, and others

Some variation in water chemistry.
Nice, those are in line with most of the changes I've made to my SOP's.
 
This thread has been a great resource for brewing NEIPA‘s. Thanks to all for your contributions. Here’s my first batch with Citra, Nelson & Mosaic. Like some have said, “better than what’s available nearby” 👍
 

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It's not often I'm doing NEIPAS so I would appreciate some help how to hop this one I'm planning to make. I'm doing this one to share with some friends of mine and I know they like them with very restrained bitterness. I'm thinking of using the same grain bill as last time I did a NEIPA since I was pretty satisfied with that, a blend of Golden Promise, Spelt and malted oats.

This is the hops I have at hand:

Mosaic
Hop burst Magnifico, which I understand is liquid extract of Mosaic
Citra lupomax
Amarillo cryo
Amarillo T90
Nectaron
Centennial
Chinook

Anyone have any suggestions on how to use them, and/or if I need to complement with something else?
Use all your citra mosaic Amarillo products, those sound great. Low IBU, low ish WP temp, do t go too crazy with dry hop - I find that’s the crowd pleaser hazy. Save your nectaron for the neipa for yourself!
 
Use all your citra mosaic Amarillo products, those sound great. Low IBU, low ish WP temp, do t go too crazy with dry hop - I find that’s the crowd pleaser hazy. Save your nectaron for the neipa for yourself!
Low-ish WP temp, something like 70-75C (158-167F)?

Would the following be a good idea:

WP: Amarillo (T90) + Mosaic (T90) + some of the Citra lupomax
DH: Amarillo cryo + Citra lupomax + Mosaic hopburst
 
It's not often I'm doing NEIPAS so I would appreciate some help how to hop this one I'm planning to make. I'm doing this one to share with some friends of mine and I know they like them with very restrained bitterness. I'm thinking of using the same grain bill as last time I did a NEIPA since I was pretty satisfied with that, a blend of Golden Promise, Spelt and malted oats.

This is the hops I have at hand:

Mosaic
Hop burst Magnifico, which I understand is liquid extract of Mosaic
Citra lupomax
Amarillo cryo
Amarillo T90
Nectaron
Centennial
Chinook

Anyone have any suggestions on how to use them, and/or if I need to complement with something else?
If you want restrained bitterness, skip all hot side hop additions and only do whirlpool additions.

Whirlpool:
1oz Citra Lupo @170° for 30 min
2oz Nectaron @170° for 30 min
2oz Mosaic @170° for 30 min

Dryhop:
- No idea of your fermenter capabilities, so I'll keep it simple:
- Dry hop after primary is complete; crash to 58°; add dry hops; immediately crash to 36°; 48 hours max contact time; keg
3oz Citra Lupo - 48 hours contact time
4oz Nectaron - 48 hours contact time
4oz Mosaic - 48 hours contact time

*If these dry hopping amounts are too aggressive for you, knock 1oz off of each.
 
If you want restrained bitterness, skip all hot side hop additions and only do whirlpool additions.

Whirlpool:
1oz Citra Lupo @170° for 30 min
2oz Nectaron @170° for 30 min
2oz Mosaic @170° for 30 min

Dryhop:
- No idea of your fermenter capabilities, so I'll keep it simple:
- Dry hop after primary is complete; crash to 58°; add dry hops; immediately crash to 36°; 48 hours max contact time; keg
3oz Citra Lupo - 48 hours contact time
4oz Nectaron - 48 hours contact time
4oz Mosaic - 48 hours contact time

*If these dry hopping amounts are too aggressive for you, knock 1oz off of each.
Thanks! Interesting, I've never dry hopped at those temperatures before. What are the reasons for doing that?
 
Thanks! Interesting, I've never dry hopped at those temperatures before. What are the reasons for doing that?
Myrcene (usually described as green/resinous) is extracted much more effectively at higher dry hop temps, which can overtake the fruitier notes we're trying to achieve in a hazy beer.

Something to keep in mind - dry hopping at cooler temps inherently causes the hops to drop quicker than they would at 68-70° - so rousing the hops back into suspension is recommended.

The other benefit of dry hopping on the cooler side and for shorter contact time is preventing/eliminating hop creep.
 
Myrcene (usually described as green/resinous) is extracted much more effectively at higher dry hop temps, which can overtake the fruitier notes we're trying to achieve in a hazy beer.

Something to keep in mind - dry hopping at cooler temps inherently causes the hops to drop quicker than they would at 68-70° - so rousing the hops back into suspension is recommended.

The other benefit of dry hopping on the cooler side and for shorter contact time is preventing/eliminating hop creep.
I might very well give that a try!
 
Myrcene (usually described as green/resinous) is extracted much more effectively at higher dry hop temps
Do you have any literature that? I havent seen that before and seems like an awesome study if they found specific dryhop temps from compounds.

The main benefit of colder dryhop temps is limiting or stop the activity of the yeast so you don’t have hop creep That ultimately leads to hop burn
 
The main benefit of colder dryhop temps is limiting or stop the activity of the yeast so you don’t have hop creep That ultimately leads to hop burn

Has dropping the dry hops in the middle of fermentation ("biotransformation" I believe being the goal) fallen out of favor? This question is for anyone but it was Dgallo that got me thinking about it. I see the above (yeast stops, chill, then dry hop) happening in this thread seemingly exclusively these days.
 
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Has dropping the dry hops in the middle of fermentation ("biotransformation" I believe being the goal) fallen out of favor? This question is for anyone but it was Dgallo that got me thinking about it. I see the above (yeast stops, chill, then dry hop) happening in this thread seemingly exclusively these days.
I would say It isn’t anywhere near as big of a thing anymore. Most compounds don’t convert and few yeast make it happen. Bio transformation can occur from hotside additions. Some breweries/hbers definitely still do it but I do not. I find it a waste of bright character and also that it creates hopburn and lower fgs.
 
Do you have any literature that? I havent seen that before and seems like an awesome study if they found specific dryhop temps from compounds.
Suspect there may be confusion between dry hopping and whirlpool temperatures?
 
Has dropping the dry hops in the middle of fermentation ("biotransformation" I believe being the goal) fallen out of favor? This question is for anyone but it was Dgallo that got me thinking about it. I see the above (yeast stops, chill, then dry hop) happening in this thread seemingly exclusively these days.
Biotransformation still occurs from hops in the WP. Only certain yeasts can do it, and only certain hops produce compounds ready for BT. But DHing during active primary fermentation seems to have lost its luster in the past few years.
 
Has dropping the dry hops in the middle of fermentation ("biotransformation" I believe being the goal) fallen out of favor? This question is for anyone but it was Dgallo that got me thinking about it. I see the above (yeast stops, chill, then dry hop) happening in this thread seemingly exclusively these days.

I was just watching one of the presentations from Homebrew Con 2022 on Biotransformation. The data that presented seem to indicate that 1) it really did not matter when you added the hops, you still got the same biotransformation effects and 2) the changes that we labeled as "Biotransformation" a few years ago are really quite subtle. The really impactful "Biotransformations" are related to Thiols and driven by added enzymes and GMO yeasts.

They did have one slide noting that dry hopping early can have some impacts on the overall character of the hops not related to Biotransformation like less herbal character from the hops.
 
If even a genetically manipulated heavy biotransformative yeast's effects get overshadowed by a moderate dryhop I do not know why any other yeasts would have any effects.
Temperature does have an effect, I can tell a warm dryhopped beer apart from a cold one, each have its own place in certain styles.
 
I was just watching one of the presentations from Homebrew Con 2022 on Biotransformation. The data that presented seem to indicate that 1) it really did not matter when you added the hops, you still got the same biotransformation effects and 2) the changes that we labeled as "Biotransformation" a few years ago are really quite subtle. The really impactful "Biotransformations" are related to Thiols and driven by added enzymes and GMO yeasts.

They did have one slide noting that dry hopping early can have some impacts on the overall character of the hops not related to Biotransformation like less herbal character from the hops.
Do you have a link to the presentation?
 
If even a genetically manipulated heavy biotransformative yeast's effects get overshadowed by a moderate dryhop
What yeast are you taking about? It’s been my experience that thiolized yeast strains completely overshadow the hops.

I brewed a west coast ipa with start party heavily dryhoping with Simcoe, Citra, and strata and got no hops at all. Just pure guava. Had a thiolized lager and blonde ale from local breweries and both tasted like the ipa I dumped a 3-4lb/bbl dryhop in
 
What yeast are you taking about? It’s been my experience that thiolized yeast strains completely overshadow the hops.

I brewed a west coast ipa with start party heavily dryhoping with Simcoe, Citra, and strata and got no hops at all. Just pure guava. Had a thiolized lager and blonde ale from local breweries and both tasted like the ipa I dumped a 3-4lb/bbl dryhop in
I only have experience with the cosmic punch and did 3 split brews with la3 to compare, I didnt get anything from it, I would even argue the la3 popped more.
 
@beervoid Pretty sure Star Party increases thiol production 1000x and Cosmic Punch 10x. That might be why you're not getting the full effect, like @Dgallo

I've read that breweries are using these strains to greatly reduce the amount of hopping/DHing and getting fantastic results. I have yet to experiment with thiolized yeasts, but it's on my list. I just kegged an all Simcoe NEIPA with Omega British Ale V yeast yesterday, and the aroma is more potent than any NEIPA I've made so far. I'll have to wait to taste, but it reminds me a little of LAIII and Imperial Juice. Not harsh at all though, which I sometimes get early with LAIII.

This is straight from Omega site: All about our Thiolized yeast series
 
Do you have a link to the presentation?
AHA membership is required: I Can't Believe It's Not Biotransformation!

Rant: For 2022 they just recorded the audio from the presentations so you have to listen and try to figure out which slide the presenter is on. Also, you miss out on any animation of the presentation or additional info you would get from seeing the presenter. I am not a fan of this format vs prior years.
 
@beervoid Pretty sure Star Party increases thiol production 1000x and Cosmic Punch 10x. That might be why you're not getting the full effect, like @Dgallo

I've read that breweries are using these strains to greatly reduce the amount of hopping/DHing and getting fantastic results. I have yet to experiment with thiolized yeasts, but it's on my list. I just kegged an all Simcoe NEIPA with Omega British Ale V yeast yesterday, and the aroma is more potent than any NEIPA I've made so far. I'll have to wait to taste, but it reminds me a little of LAIII and Imperial Juice. Not harsh at all though, which I sometimes get early with LAIII.

This is straight from Omega site: All about our Thiolized yeast series
Possible yeah, its probably good for a non dryhopped beer, I dont really found it to be complimentary or have any effect on my beers which all had the equivalent of 3-4lbs per barrel dry hop.
I dont think you would be able to get the same complexity out of it as hops.
 
Listened to a podcast while biking to work this AM, "Beersmith home and beer brewing", this one "Dry hopping with Scott Janish" (Sept 16, 2021). He mentioned (as discussed a few posts above) that dry hopping cooler would get less vegetative flavors and such from the hops vs. cooler. Also I gathered that the biotransformation was sort of a thing that happened at any time and didn't have to be done at high krausen. I think basically backing up what was already explained to me earlier (thanks again).

I did notice he seemed to recommend whirlpool at 180F, that there was more flavor and less vegetative than if done cooler. I'd always stayed at 170 or so to try and not add the IBU's. Wondered if anyone had experimented with this?

Hopefully a thought provoking question and I'm not just behind the curve here. The overall podcast was pretty good, the different compounds and when they are extracted.
 
Listened to a podcast while biking to work this AM, "Beersmith home and beer brewing", this one "Dry hopping with Scott Janish" (Sept 16, 2021). He mentioned (as discussed a few posts above) that dry hopping cooler would get less vegetative flavors and such from the hops vs. cooler. Also I gathered that the biotransformation was sort of a thing that happened at any time and didn't have to be done at high krausen. I think basically backing up what was already explained to me earlier (thanks again).

I did notice he seemed to recommend whirlpool at 180F, that there was more flavor and less vegetative than if done cooler. I'd always stayed at 170 or so to try and not add the IBU's. Wondered if anyone had experimented with this?

Hopefully a thought provoking question and I'm not just behind the curve here. The overall podcast was pretty good, the different compounds and when they are extracted.
I too have dropped my WP temp from 180F to 170F. It's probably not the end all, but I do feel that the lower WP temp and dropping yeast before DHing produces a smoother drinking beer sooner.
 
I just ordered 4 different packs of Cryo as I haven't tried them yet. How effective is using one ounce (with some t90) in the dry hop? Or should I buy more of each?
 
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