New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

Makes sense when you put it that way, I build my water off my private well with ward labs report, I think lately my CA has been around 80ppm, I don't get a chalkiness if that's a word haha, but I probably wouldn't go any higher with it either though I don't think 80 is near the threshold where its noticeable in my opinion. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to get some KCL and aim for CA of 40.

There’s also nacl to keep your ca down and raise your Cl. This is what I use to keep my Ca at or under 100. The elevated na (in the 70s) have really brightening my hop expression and added to the mouthfeel as well

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I use nacl also, last batch Na ended up at 78. My well water is treated and Na is at 40 to begin with.

 

[aaronm13]

Ive seen people talk about the idea of keeping the calcium low in the mash but never really made a point to try it. I just ordered some food grade potassium chloride from Amazon and I’m going to try this in my next beer. Going to shoot for those exact numbers.

Please report back on this one, very curious about it.

 

[secretlevel]

There’s also nacl to keep your ca down and raise your Cl. This is what I use to keep my Ca at or under 100. The elevated na (in the 70s) have really brightening my hop expression and added to the mouthfeel as well

Very curious to try something like this, do you just sub equal amounts of NaCl for CaCl or use a calculator somewhere? Brewfather doesn't accommodate NaCL, unfortunately.

On an interesting note, I tried a Maple and Sea Salt stout last year that was outstanding. It was a little salty and super thick, I think that's basically NaCl to an extent...

 

[BeerFst]

Very curious to try something like this, do you just sub equal amounts of NaCl for CaCl or use a calculator somewhere? Brewfather doesn't accommodate NaCL, unfortunately.

On an interesting note, I tried a Maple and Sea Salt stout last year that was outstanding. It was a little salty and super thick, I think that's basically NaCl to an extent...

Brunwater supports it. I’ve been adding ~70ppm sodium to dark beers (honestly I think that was from a dgallo post somewhere ages ago) and I like it. Doesn’t taste salty at all. I hadn’t really so considered going that high for a hoppy beer but should be fine. Salt amps up flavor in food, why not in beers

Edit: haha didn’t even realize he said in the 70s a few posts ago

 

[WonkyDonkey]

Very curious to try something like this, do you just sub equal amounts of NaCl for CaCl or use a calculator somewhere? Brewfather doesn't accommodate NaCL, unfortunately.

On an interesting note, I tried a Maple and Sea Salt stout last year that was outstanding. It was a little salty and super thick, I think that's basically NaCl to an extent...

Brewfather does have NaCl in, it is down as Canning Salt in the water additions section. Possibly of interest is that here in the UK, Verdant suggest adding it late into the boil to get the best utilisation.

 

[secretlevel]

Brewfather does have NaCl in, it is down as Canning Salt in the water additions section. Possibly of interest is that here in the UK, Verdant suggest adding it late into the boil to get the best utilisation.

I'm able to add it to "Mash", but it doesn't seem to impact my Calcium levels in the water...

 

[balrog]

I'm able to add it to "Mash", but it doesn't seem to impact my Calcium levels in the water...

It shouldn't affect Ca levels, just Na and CL.
Or am I missing something?

 

[WonkyDonkey]

I'm able to add it to "Mash", but it doesn't seem to impact my Calcium levels in the water...

Calcium is Ca so unless you've already got some CaCl already in there it shouldn't alter the Ca levels when adding it, not withstanding whatever Gypsum you've added

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Adding canning salt will only effect Na and Cl.

 

[ihavenonickname]

in brewfather you have to add canning salt as a variable in the water calculator. Click the little wheel to add it. I’ve done 60 ppm Na to good effect, I think I’ll try 70-80 soon.

 

[R.A.I.D]

I am aiming for 230 Cl.
To get there I start with adding NaCl until Na is 100. Then I add CaCl to get the remaining Cl.

Works nicely.

Be sure to use NaCl without iodine. Yeast don't like iodine.

 

[BeerFst]

I am aiming for 230 Cl.
To get there I start with adding NaCl until Na is 100. Then I add CaCl to get the remaining Cl.

Works nicely.

Be sure to use NaCl without iodine. Yeast don't like iodine.

I’ll add I don’t like the ones with anti caking agents either, I just use diamond kosher it’s just plain salt.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

First pour of my latest, about 3 days in the keg, like zero hop burn, still a little green but wow cant wait for another week or 2. This is also my first competition brew, hopped with citra, galaxy and nectaron. Yeast is white labs coastal haze. 2row, white wheat, malted oats, touch of honey malt.

 

[NJGeorge]

Ive seen people talk about the idea of keeping the calcium low in the mash but never really made a point to try it. I just ordered some food grade potassium chloride from Amazon and I’m going to try this in my next beer. Going to shoot for those exact numbers.

Be careful to not use too much PC in your beer. I did once and it turned out terrible! Like very bad salty weird off flavor. I would start very low and work your way up.

 

[ihavenonickname]

I’ve got a beer finished fermenting with cosmic punch with citra and Columbus that tastes great now and I’m about to dry hop it. Plan is citra strata and Vic Secret (10oz/5g)… but I have to turn it in for a comp in 8 days! I’m a bit worried about the VS (a big polyphenol offender) leaving some hop burn for the first week or two, should I leave it out for the sake of the competition?!?
Edit update - well I’ll just answer my own dumb question in about a week. The VS smelled too good to pass it up. So we will see if I can rush this beer with it.

 

[anteater8]

I’ve got a beer finished fermenting with cosmic punch with citra and Columbus that tastes great now and I’m about to dry hop it. Plan is citra strata and Vic Secret (10oz/5g)… but I have to turn it in for a comp in 8 days! I’m a bit worried about the VS (a big polyphenol offender) leaving some hop burn for the first week or two, should I leave it out for the sake of the competition?!?
Edit update - well I’ll just answer my own dumb question in about a week. The VS smelled too good to pass it up. So we will see if I can rush this beer with it.

Not much harm in entering and getting feedback on a 2 week old IPA. I personally shoot for 3-5 weeks in the keg when I enter competitions.

 

[aaronm13]

This is my latest attempt and I'm super proud of this one. Hands down my best effort so far. It's a Citra Oat Cream DIPA. Around 4 weeks in the keg now and it's come together so good now. After 2 weeks it wasn't where I wanted it to be so added 1oz Citra T90 and 1 oz Citra Lupomax. Not sure if this was the deal breaker or just needed more time but glad I did it.

Used 4 different types of Citra in this. T90, Lupomax, Incognito and Spectrum. I'm not overly impressed by the Spectrum and don't think I'd use it again especially given the cost but really not sure of I got anything extra out of it. I did just pour it into the fermenter and I read after this should have been diluted with water so not sure if that was the difference. Either way I think it's a cracking beer and my beer club agreed when I brought it to a meet up last week. Here's the details of it.

Crisp Extra Pale 51.5%
Oat Malt 17%
Flaked oat 17%
Carafoam 8%
Wheat malt 5.5%
Flaked Wheat 1% ( just had a few oz I wanted to use up)
Verdant Yeast

1oz Citra T90 10 minutes
2oz T90 whirlpool
1oz Lupomax whirlpool
15ml Citra Incognito whirlpool
1oz T90 dry hop, 1oz Lupomax and 22ml of Spectrum added at day 3.

Soft crashed to 55 degrees for 48 hours after fermentation and transferred to a fermentation purged keg with 2oz of T90 and 4oz of Lupomax. Held at 58 degrees for 48 hours then cold crashed for 48 hours and transferred to a fermentation purged serving keg. As I said above I added an oz of each T90 and Lupomax after 2 weeks.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Be careful to not use too much PC in your beer. I did once and it turned out terrible! Like very bad salty weird off flavor. I would start very low and work your way up.

Any chance you remember how much you used? I typically use about 7.5 grams of calcium chloride, and was thinking about maybe splitting that in half with the potassium chloride, or something close to that. I don’t have the calculations in front of me, but I used my water calculator the other day and got pretty much dead on with the numbers the brewer in the podcast says he shoots for.

 

[Ulisses4677]

My most recent neipa.
7.8 abv
88.3 % 2 row
10.4 % white wheat
1.3 % golden naked oats
Og 1.78
Final 1.018
Mash temp 156F for 60 min
Mash out 170 for 10 min
Whirlpool for 30 min @ 170 with Nelson sauvin 4 oz.
Fermented with omega cosmic punch for 5 days then transferred to secondary to dry hop with 4oz of mouteka and 2 oz of enigma for 3 days @ 58 F. Transferred to serving keg at 38F for 7 days before serving. I did a 3/1 ratio of caCI2 to caSO4
Used R/O water. I used Nelson sauvin because it’s a high thiol hop and I wanted to get the most out of cosmic punch.

 

[Ulisses4677]

Here’s a different pic.

 

[murphyslaw]

I’ve made a lot of NEIPAs that I think are pretty good. I get to Treehouse once a year and regard them as the pinnacle (and places like trillium and Bissell bros.) and the sort of character I’m after. Other Half, too, they’ve got an brewery near my office in DC.

I’ve always used either Conan (gigayeast at first then white labs) or the mix of s04/wb06/t58 from the treehouse yeast thread. I think the mix has given me the best results but I probably use WLP095 the most out of convenience. I get big hop flavor and aroma, but I’ve always been chasing the mouthfeel and appearance of those breweries I mentioned.

Anyway, it’s been about a year since I last brewed as I’ve renovated my basement brewery. I made one 3 weeks ago with 1318. Mashed a bit higher than usual at 158. Finished pretty high, around 1.021. I usuallly finish around 1.014 with other yeasts. It tastes a bit sweeter and heavier than I’d like.

As for mouthfeel, this is clearly better than my past attempts. It’s smooth and soft and full.

As for the appearance, it is exactly what I wanted. At least in the sun. It’s a bit murkier inside, but I think that’s pretty typical. I’ll have to pay attention to the lighting next time I get up to NE.

As for flavor, I’m torn. The hops just don’t pop like they did with my previous brews. I think the flavor is more yeast than hops? It’s a familiar taste that reminds me of commercial NEIPAs at places that don’t quite stack up to treehouse/trillium, at least to my taste.

I may try a hochkurz mash next time to make it a bit more fermentable. Hopefully that won’t detract from the mouthfeel.

 

[Ulisses4677]

Here’s another one of my many neipas next to monkish. Had if carbonating for about 3 days as you can see in the head retention. I get best results as far as hop flavor and aroma by only doing whirlpool and dryhopping after fermentation. I’ve never had any of those beers but I do know they’re the best. I live in Vegas and it’s impossible to get bissell or tree house.

 

[Frieds]

Tr

I’ve made a lot of NEIPAs that I think are pretty good. I get to Treehouse once a year and regard them as the pinnacle (and places like trillium and Bissell bros.) and the sort of character I’m after. Other Half, too, they’ve got an brewery near my office in DC.

I’ve always used either Conan (gigayeast at first then white labs) or the mix of s04/wb06/t58 from the treehouse yeast thread. I think the mix has given me the best results but I probably use WLP095 the most out of convenience. I get big hop flavor and aroma, but I’ve always been chasing the mouthfeel and appearance of those breweries I mentioned.

Anyway, it’s been about a year since I last brewed as I’ve renovated my basement brewery. I made one 3 weeks ago with 1318. Mashed a bit higher than usual at 158. Finished pretty high, around 1.021. I usuallly finish around 1.014 with other yeasts. It tastes a bit sweeter and heavier than I’d like.

As for mouthfeel, this is clearly better than my past attempts. It’s smooth and soft and full.

As for the appearance, it is exactly what I wanted. At least in the sun. It’s a bit murkier inside, but I think that’s pretty typical. I’ll have to pay attention to the lighting next time I get up to NE.

As for flavor, I’m torn. The hops just don’t pop like they did with my previous brews. I think the flavor is more yeast than hops? It’s a familiar taste that reminds me of commercial NEIPAs at places that don’t quite stack up to treehouse/trillium, at least to my taste.

I may try a hochkurz mash next time to make it a bit more fermentable. Hopefully that won’t detract from the mouthfeel.

Try fermenting 1318 at a lower temperature. From my experiences, there’s a pretty decent difference between 18C-22C.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I’ve made a lot of NEIPAs that I think are pretty good. I get to Treehouse once a year and regard them as the pinnacle (and places like trillium and Bissell bros.) and the sort of character I’m after. Other Half, too, they’ve got an brewery near my office in DC.

I’ve always used either Conan (gigayeast at first then white labs) or the mix of s04/wb06/t58 from the treehouse yeast thread. I think the mix has given me the best results but I probably use WLP095 the most out of convenience. I get big hop flavor and aroma, but I’ve always been chasing the mouthfeel and appearance of those breweries I mentioned.

Anyway, it’s been about a year since I last brewed as I’ve renovated my basement brewery. I made one 3 weeks ago with 1318. Mashed a bit higher than usual at 158. Finished pretty high, around 1.021. I usuallly finish around 1.014 with other yeasts. It tastes a bit sweeter and heavier than I’d like.

As for mouthfeel, this is clearly better than my past attempts. It’s smooth and soft and full.

As for the appearance, it is exactly what I wanted. At least in the sun. It’s a bit murkier inside, but I think that’s pretty typical. I’ll have to pay attention to the lighting next time I get up to NE.

As for flavor, I’m torn. The hops just don’t pop like they did with my previous brews. I think the flavor is more yeast than hops? It’s a familiar taste that reminds me of commercial NEIPAs at places that don’t quite stack up to treehouse/trillium, at least to my taste.

I may try a hochkurz mash next time to make it a bit more fermentable. Hopefully that won’t detract from the mouthfeel.

Ive been step mashing my NEIPAs for quite some time now and I think its helped me control for hitting my target FG as well as enhance the foam retention overall. My step mashes are hochkurz-like but not exact. From what Ive read, this step mashing is about 145F for 30min and then ~160F for another 30 minutes. Ive been doing 150F for 30-40minutes and then 162 for 20-30min followed by a mashout at 170 for 10. Obviously the longer you stay low the lower the FG will be and when considering the yeast you are using with it you can get a good idea on what the target FG will be. Im still tinkering with this step mash schedule as well. I've more recently done 150 for 30 and 162 for 30 and 170 for 10 and liked the results overall.

While I haven't ever brewed with 1318, I have used Imperial Juice and verdant IPA dry yeast. Ive gotten them to finish around 1.014-1.016 with good results. But I agree with you in that I do think that while these yeasts are great for NEIPAs, their yeast character can sometimes detract from the hop profiles in the finished beer - which also depends on Ferm temps producing the ester profiles you get from them. Even though Cosmic Punch isn't exact same as these, CP is without a doubt the most intense fruitiness especially if you mash hop. I still keep going back to A24 Dry Hop though as I think this yeast strikes the perfect balance at producing some beautiful esters but also lets the hop profile you planned so hard for to shine through. But with A24, its a beast for attenuation, so if you aren't careful your FG can easily be in the 1.011-1.013 range without even bringing dextrose to the table. So with A24, either mash low for a short period of time before raising to next step temp OR mash at like 152-153 for the "low" temp to control for the fermentability.

Hope this helps and cheers! BTW the beer you posted looks great!

 

[murphyslaw]

Thanks. I’ll try both the step mash and the lower fermentation temps. I have a pack of verdant that I might try next, too.

 

[wepeeler]

Thanks. I’ll try both the step mash and the lower fermentation temps. I have a pack of verdant that I might try next, too.

FYI Verdant is great, but it drops out pretty clear. Made my first Verdant NEIPA and within 2 weeks it's not thick and hazy. Plenty fruity and tasty, just not thick like all my past neipas.

 

[murphyslaw]

I’ve always used 10-15% each of flaked wheat and oats for haze, mouthfeel, and foam. But I’ve always been a bit skeptical. Treehouse claims not to use any. It looks like trillium does sometimes, like with Vicinity, but not in Melcher Street. Both are favorites of mine. So that suggested to me that it’s not necessary. But I also follow a lot of what Janish writes and his brewery is right by my LHBS so I stop in every now and then. Their stuff is really good, but different from Treehouse/Trillium.

This time I used 2 row, malted wheat, c20 (going for orange color), and chit. I made 2 batches over back to back weeks. The one pictured above has spelt instead of malted wheat. The one with wheat is transferring to a keg right now. (Both finished around 1.021).

I was surprised that I got the appearance and mouthfeel I’ve been striving for without any oats and without any flaked adjuncts. I assume it’s bc of 1318. I think I’ll split my next batch and ferment one with conan and one with 1318 or verdant.

 

[wepeeler]

I’ve always used 10-15% each of flaked wheat and oats for haze, mouthfeel, and foam. But I’ve always been a bit skeptical. Treehouse claims not to use any. It looks like trillium does sometimes, like with Vicinity, but not in Melcher Street. Both are favorites of mine. So that suggested to me that it’s not necessary. But I also follow a lot of what Janish writes and his brewery is right by my LHBS so I stop in every now and then. Their stuff is really good, but different from Treehouse/Trillium.

This time I used 2 row, malted wheat, c20 (going for orange color), and chit. I made 2 batches over back to back weeks. The one pictured above has spelt instead of malted wheat. The one with wheat is transferring to a keg right now. (Both finished around 1.021).

I was surprised that I got the appearance and mouthfeel I’ve been striving for without any oats and without any flaked adjuncts. I assume it’s bc of 1318. I think I’ll split my next batch and ferment one with conan and one with 1318 or verdant.

I dropped all flaked adjuncts from my recipe around 6 months ago and was still getting nice stable haze and mouthfeel, but I switched to Mecca Grade malts. They must be higher in protein content (also more $$). Their 2 Row (Lamonta) and White Wheat (Shaniko) create a deep orange and THICK beer. Super tasty too. Only disadvantage is my local HB shop doesn't carry them, so it's hard to plan an impromptu brew day.

 

[secretlevel]

I dropped all flaked adjuncts from my recipe around 6 months ago and was still getting nice stable haze and mouthfeel, but I switched to Mecca Grade malts. They must be higher in protein content (also more $$). Their 2 Row (Lamonta) and White Wheat (Shaniko) create a deep orange and THICK beer. Super tasty too. Only disadvantage is my local HB shop doesn't carry them, so it's hard to plan an impromptu brew day.

They have some fantastic malts. Sometimes they have deals on them, I'd just get a bag of 2-row and their wheat for NEIPA's for more casual brewing needs.

On the subject of their Shaniko, they actually have another Wheat malt that they created specifically for Alvarado street. Apparently it's the highest protein content of any wheat on the market...
Would love to try it, but I live in Illinois