New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[HopsAreGood]

Do you ever repitch the yeast cake from this mixture?

Nope, I have not. I just use a fresh pack of each each time. You certainly could but the ratio will change with each successive pitch. Likely more towards the verdant as it seems to be the more dominant of the two.

 

[palmtrees]

I'm drawing up my first NEIPA recipe. I'm more of a WCIPA person, but now that I keg and have a pressure capable fermenter, I want to give this style a try.

Anyone have any feedback on this hop combo? I've chosen these from my freezer stash.

-Bitter with a touch of Centennial at 60 minutes
-Whirlpool with Citra and Idaho 7 (lupomax)
-Dry hop with Citra, Idaho 7 (lupomax), Ekuanot, and Talus

And can anyone share the current conventional wisdom on adding some late boil hops vs. doing everything in whirlpool? I've seen some conflicting thoughts in this thread, and can't quite figure out the consensus.

Thanks!

 

[Dgallo]

-Bitter with a touch of Centennial at 60 minutes
-Whirlpool with Citra and Idaho 7 (lupomax)
-Dry hop with Citra, Idaho 7 (lupomax), Ekuanot, and Talus

Citra and Idaho 7 work great. I haven’t had great luck with Ekuanot when I used it in general. Got like a fleshy green pepper thing but I also haven’t used it in a few years and I’ve heard people have had good success with it recently

my person advice would be to stick with the just the Idaho 7 and Citra.

When it comes to late boil hops, I like to get roughly 20% of hops in boil (sometimes even more). I feel This just adds a layer of depth that can be achieved elsewhere in the brewing process

 

[Dgallo]

Haven’t brewed a NEIPA in a while but I’m going to end up doing a split 12 gallon batch(6gal into both fermenters)this week at some point

Water
Ca: 120
Mg: 16
Cl: 230
Na: 84
So4: 138
5.3 ph

grains
77% - 2row
20% - spelt
3% - honey malt

Mash
40 mins - 146
30 mins - 162
10 mins - mash out

yeast
Imperial a24 - dryhop
(0.65 million cell/ml/*p)

Hotside hops
Columbus t90 @ 60 & 10 - target 30ibu

whirlpool @ 170*f for 20 mins
Columbus LUPOMAX
Cascade LUPOMAX
1:1 ratio

Dryhop FV 1
Enigma
Nelson
Mosaic LUPOMAX
2:1:1
(Going for dank assorted berry profile

Dryhop FV 2
Bru-1 t90 & LUPOMAX
Vic Secret
Sabro LUPOMAX
3:1:1
(Going for pineapple/island tropical profile)

softcrashing and dryhoping at 56-58*f

Will follow up when in the keg

So FV 1 just got tapped this morning. Enigma, Mosaic LUPOMAX, and Nelson. Actual og was 1.071 and finished 1.012 so we are right around 7.8%. Lots of berry/wine notes with some earthy resinous notes in the finish. There’s also the undeniable NZ oil like notes

. This beer is exceptionally soft. I think spelt reall does make a difference. 100% top tier quality all together. Very excited to see how the other beer shapes up

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Wanted to loop you all in on my current experiment. I ferment in spike conicals and have been struggling to get the same hop saturation/flavor as some of my favorite commercial examples. Haze has also been somewhat lacking. I know many of you dry hop in corny kegs and are able to agitate numerous times during the process to keep the hops in suspension - this isn't really an option in conicals. I've been intrigued by Janish's article re: burping on the commercial scale to rouse the hops a few times during the DH stage. My issue on the homebrew scale is that it's extremely hard to drop/dump all of the yeast before the dry hop without losing a third of my batch down the drain (I really think a 2" dump port on a fermenter of this size is overkill). My fear is that if I were to "burp" my tank with a bunch of yeast still in the cone, I'd be stirring up some undesirable things back into suspension. Especially since my goal as been to soft crash most of the yeast out of suspension prior to dry hop.

So...I over-compensated on volume of this batch to yield 9 gallons pre-boil and finished with just over 7 gallons into my larger conical. Once fermentation is complete I plan to soft crash to 50F for 24 hours, then transfer to a purged smaller conical and proceed with dry hopping at 50F. This should allow me to bubble CO2 through the bottom port a few times without fear of re-suspending yeast in the process. Hopefully when all is said and done after volume loss from the hops I'll still end up with about 5 gallons in the keg.

I'd love to hear y'alls opinions or other best practices for those of you with conicals. My recipe is below so I can post updates on the outcome

OG: 1.066
Yeast: 50/50 split S-04 & S-05

13# 2-row
2# malted oats
2# white wheat
1# carafoam

1 oz citra @ 20 min
1 oz cashmere @ 15 min
1 oz cashmere @ 10 min
3 oz citra @170F WP for 15 min
3 oz cashmere @ 170F WP for 15 min
4 oz citra DH after ferm complete @ 50F
4 oz cashmere DH after ferm complete @ 50F

I ferment in spike cf15's so its a 15 gallon batch, I start with that sucker full as can be for neipa's knowing I am gonna loose 2 gallon so I get it to 17.5 gallons. I do a soft crash to 50f then dump yeast, when I do that my process is to put a 2 inch elbow on with a 1/2 inch nipple on the other end followed by an 18 inch piece of clear hose. I use a sight glass, and start buy opening the valve 1 notch at a time, pausing for 30 seconds or so until I see movement in the sight glass. I use the sight glass to watch how things are moving and go as slow as possible, this process takes about 10 to 15 minutes and I do it about 3 times or until I collect about 1 gallon of trub. Then I proceed to dry hop for 2 or 3 days at 50f then I crash to 36f for a day or 2 and do the same trub dropping process before I keg. Before I purchased the sight glass my process was not as efficient but similar. I do not rouse the hops when I dry hop and usually my dry hop charge is about 1.25 oz per gallon. I do let my hops warm up to room temp before I drop them in, obviously purging co2 while doing so. The trub dumping process took me some time to nail down but go slow with it, I run about 2 to 3 psi of co2 and even if I get a real stubborn one eventually it will start moving.

 

[aaronm13]

So FV 1 just got tapped this morning. Enigma, Mosaic LUPOMAX, and Nelson. Actual og was 1.071 and finished 1.012 so we are right around 7.8%. Lots of berry/wine notes with some earthy resinous notes in the finish. There’s also the undeniable NZ oil like notes

. This beer is exceptionally soft. I think spelt reall does make a difference. 100% top tier quality all together. Very excited to see how the other beer shapes up View attachment 732184

That looks absolutely fantastic. Has a real Omnipollo look to it with the ice cream type head. So are you sold on spelt now? Can't wait to see how the other batch turns out.

 

[Dgallo]

That looks absolutely fantastic. Has a real Omnipollo look to it with the ice cream type head. So are you sold on spelt now? Can't wait to see how the other batch turns out.

Thanks man. So far so good with it. It’s a little early to make a call on it. I’ll have a better idea in a few weeks when both beers are conditioned a little. I should be taping the other beer tomorrow evening. I’ll update on that one and then again in a few weeks

 

[Rob2010SS]

So FV 1 just got tapped this morning. Enigma, Mosaic LUPOMAX, and Nelson. Actual og was 1.071 and finished 1.012 so we are right around 7.8%. Lots of berry/wine notes with some earthy resinous notes in the finish. There’s also the undeniable NZ oil like notes

. This beer is exceptionally soft. I think spelt reall does make a difference. 100% top tier quality all together. Very excited to see how the other beer shapes up View attachment 732184

This looks fantastic!!! Makes me thirsty!!

 

[couchsending]

I ferment in spike cf15's so its a 15 gallon batch, I start with that sucker full as can be for neipa's knowing I am gonna loose 2 gallon so I get it to 17.5 gallons. I do a soft crash to 50f then dump yeast, when I do that my process is to put a 2 inch elbow on with a 1/2 inch nipple on the other end followed by an 18 inch piece of clear hose. I use a sight glass, and start buy opening the valve 1 notch at a time, pausing for 30 seconds or so until I see movement in the sight glass. I use the sight glass to watch how things are moving and go as slow as possible, this process takes about 10 to 15 minutes and I do it about 3 times or until I collect about 1 gallon of trub. Then I proceed to dry hop for 2 or 3 days at 50f then I crash to 36f for a day or 2 and do the same trub dropping process before I keg. Before I purchased the sight glass my process was not as efficient but similar. I do not rouse the hops when I dry hop and usually my dry hop charge is about 1.25 oz per gallon. I do let my hops warm up to room temp before I drop them in, obviously purging co2 while doing so. The trub dumping process took me some time to nail down but go slow with it, I run about 2 to 3 psi of co2 and even if I get a real stubborn one eventually it will start moving.

If you’re looking for more hop saturation you have to use more hops. Most commercial breweries are using 4#/bbl for that ABV. Everyone will say the impact drops after 2#/bbl and while you might not get that much more aroma or flavor but you do get more generic overall oil/hop Impact. An 8#/bbl Monkish dry hop is a drastically different experience than a 2#/bbl DH believe me.

Also a lot of these commercial breweries are using centrifuges and carbonating beer in under 24 hours. They can turn beers around much faster than you can on the Homebrew setting.

Yeah the 2” dump port on the Spike conicals is dumb seeing as 300 bbl tanks only have 1.5” ports. Especially when the tank can hold pressure.

Personally I wouldn’t transfer. Regardless of how well you think you do it you’re not going to be able to purge that receiving vessel well enough to make it worth it. I’ve burped tanks with Co2 a few times and really didn’t notice much of a difference. I’d say try splitting the dry hop into two charges. 24 hours apart. That for me made the biggest impact on hop saturation.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

I’d say try splitting the dry hop into two charges. 24 hours apart. That for me made the biggest impact on hop saturation.

what are your #oz/gal dryhop rate for a 6.5-7% ish neipa?

 

[couchsending]

what are you #oz/gal dryhop rate for a 6.5-7% ish neipa?

2ish oz/gallon

 

[Noob_Brewer]

That looks absolutely fantastic. Has a real Omnipollo look to it with the ice cream type head. So are you sold on spelt now? Can't wait to see how the other batch turns out.

I think spelt definitely has something to offer that white wheat does not. I did a spelt NEIPA and posted it here a little while ago here in this thread: New England IPA - "Northeast" style IPA. Mine was 75% 2 row, 20% spelt, and 5% CaraFoam. Beer came out great and was most definitely the "softest and pillowiest" by far that Ive made where Ive mostly done my NEIPAs with combos of wheat/oats. This was also the first NEIPA I made with zero oats so I wasn't sure if my experience was due to the spelt or the fact that Ive never done an NEIPA without oats (which I still love BTW). So now I'm carbing up another NEIPA but this time substituted the 20% spelt for 20% white wheat. Its not super scientific: hopped them different, but used same water profile and yeast. At a first glance, the one with white wheat (which isn't fully carved or in its "prime" yet as Im 4 days post kegging) is great and has very nice mouthfeel but I definitely think the spelt one was softer and more "fluffy" which I absolutely love. The white wheat is still light and soft but its like the beer is more viscous/chewy - not necessarily bad at all because I dig both beers. But they are definitely different. When this beer that is currently carbonated with the 20% white wheat is done - I will do my best to produce the best beer porn pic ever, but admittedly - I don't have the talent/patience for the slow pour to put on a foam cap that @Dgallo just posted today. That damn post looked like he put a soft serve ice cream on top of that awesome beer! lol.

 

[Frieds]

Do you find any noticeable change in taste when using spelt over wheat or oats?

 

[thehaze]

Anyone used Citra, Enigma and Nectaron together? I am thinking more Enigma in the whirlpool, and a focus on Nectaron and Citra in the dry hop. A small DH charge of Enigma, just to play in the background.

 

[couchsending]

Anyone used Citra, Enigma and Nectaron together? I am thinking more Enigma in the whirlpool, and a focus on Nectaron and Citra in the dry hop. A small DH charge of Enigma, just to play in the background.

I’m sure it would be wonderful. I recently did Nectaron/586/Citra where I split the ferment and dry hopped one fermenter with 2:1 Nectaron:586 and the other 2:1 586:Nectaron. Both got the same amount of Citra, roughly 10-15%. Definitely some of the craziest tropical expression I’ve ever created with hops. If you haven’t used 586 yet it’s pretty unique but also pretty great. None of the weird woody aspects like Sabro and Talus.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Do you find any noticeable change in taste when using spelt over wheat or oats?

This is honestly pretty difficult to say for me because I hopped them differently so obviously the resounding flavors are already different. I do think that spelt seems to have a little bit more malty/sweetness compared to white wheat, but that's all I can really detect as far as flavor goes.

As far as oats goes, I still love oats but when used in high %s, I do think they can tend to make for a "heavier" feel compared to spelt and white wheat. Oats for me, (flaked in particular) adds a nice slickness that can come across as "juicy" to me. So now, Im trying out a NEIPA with spelt and malted oats in a 1.5:1 ratio in favor of spelt to see if I can't find a happy medium. Nevertheless - 75% 2 row, 20% spelt, and 5% CaraFoam makes for a great NEIPA grain bill.

 

[couchsending]

For me Spelt has a much more nutty/earthy flavor to it than wheat. I haven’t used it for many hoppy beer but use it for saison and mixed ferm beers and have used it for a few lagers as well. Not sure in a highly hopped beer you’d pick up on the the flavor impact as much.

 

[thehaze]

I’m sure it would be wonderful. I recently did Nectaron/586/Citra where I split the ferment and dry hopped one fermenter with 2:1 Nectaron:586 and the other 2:1 586:Nectaron. Both got the same amount of Citra, roughly 10-15%. Definitely some of the craziest tropical expression I’ve ever created with hops. If you haven’t used 586 yet it’s pretty unique but also pretty great. None of the weird woody aspects like Sabro and Talus.

Thank you. I will try my hand at the above mentioned combo.

I am also planning on using Talus, but in a Smash - sort of. A well hopped Pils, with Pilsner malt, lager yeast and Talus - dry hopping as well. I like having a crisp Pils in the keg during summer. So you say that Talus showcases some of the woody character? Is it as proeminent as Sabro?

 

[couchsending]

Thank you. I will try my hand at the above mentioned combo.

I am also planning on using Talus, but in a Smash - sort of. A well hopped Pils, with Pilsner malt, lager yeast and Talus - dry hopping as well. I like having a crisp Pils in the keg during summer. So you say that Talus showcases some of the woody character? Is it as proeminent as Sabro?

I think the wood character or Talis is actually stronger than Sabro but the other flavors/aromas seem to make sense somehow. It’s a more old school profile where as Sabro is all tropical and then hits you with cedar which is totally out of place. The woody aspect works better in Talus. I think a lager is a great idea. I’ve made an all Zappa dry hopped lager that really went over well with folks. It also has that woody Neomexicanus aspect to it. Seems to work with a clean ferment and a bit of sulfur

 

[flip_88]

I typically only use 1318 for NEIPAs. Does this look like a good fermentation temp schedule?

Day 1-3 @ 66*
Day 4@ 68*
Day 5 @ 70*
Day 6 @ 72*
Day 7 @ 72*

And finish at 72* until fermentation is done.

 

[Dgallo]

I typically only use 1318 for NEIPAs. Does this look like a good fermentation temp schedule?

Day 1-3 @ 66*
Day 4@ 68*
Day 5 @ 70*
Day 6 @ 72*
Day 7 @ 72*

And finish at 72* until fermentation is done.

You can run it at 72-74 at day 2-4 to force more ester production

 

[flip_88]

You can run it at 72-74 at day 2-4 to force more ester production

So maybe on Day 8 and 9.. run it at 73 and then 74? Thanks for the feedback. Appreciate it.

 

[Dgallo]

So maybe on Day 8 and 9.. run it at 73 and then 74? Thanks for the feedback. Appreciate it.

Don’t worry about that far out. You’ll be finished fermenting 1318 at day 5 or so if you pitch a healthy amount of yeast. This schedule always worked for me;

Pitch at 66-68*

let free rise to 72-74 and hold there for 3-4 days

Then let it naturally fall between 70-72 and hold it 2 days or more to clean up.

Crash to drop yeast. Then dryhop somewhere from 50-58*f

 

[crusader1612]

Has anyone done an All Sabro version???

Interested to hear thoughts.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I typically only use 1318 for NEIPAs. Does this look like a good fermentation temp schedule?

Day 1-3 @ 66*
Day 4@ 68*
Day 5 @ 70*
Day 6 @ 72*
Day 7 @ 72*

And finish at 72* until fermentation is done.

Im running the Juice now. Pitched at 67 on Sunday at 5pm and let it get to 69-70 by the 19hr mark and once the high krausen had passed, let it free rise to 71 prior to bed time last night. This morning (~36hrs post pitch) I let it rise to 72-73 and this is where its holding now. Purring like a kitten.

 

[couchsending]

Has anyone done an All Sabro version???

Interested to hear thoughts.

3 years ago

I will never brew with Sabro again and hope to never have a beer that uses it again.

Tropical Fruit + Cedar is a horrible horrible combo.

Hop smells insane from the bag. It ends there

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Has anyone done an All Sabro version???

Interested to hear thoughts.

I just bought a pound of it and it will be next after I try a 12oz of all galaxy 2017 just for fun. I'm bored of citra/mosaic and discovered 3*8oz of unopened galaxy 2017 crop that smell fresh and fruity but never had succes with it for flavor.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

3 years ago

I will never brew with Sabro again and hope to never have a beer that uses it again.

Tropical Fruit + Cedar is a horrible horrible combo.

Hop smells insane from the bag. It ends there

I am one of the lucky person that never taste/smell cedar from Sabro. I drank a lot of neipa with sabro in it and it's my favorite hop of 2020. Brewed a lot of neipa with sabro and it was one of the best. Only 1 time I had coconut flavor from Sabro rest of it is 100% tropical creamy.

 

[Frieds]

Don’t worry about that far out. You’ll be finished fermenting 1318 at day 5 or so if you pitch a healthy amount of yeast. This schedule always worked for me;

Pitch at 66-68*

let free rise to 72-74 and hold there for 3-4 days

Then let it naturally fall between 70-72 and hold it 2 days or more to clean up.

Crash to drop yeast. Then dryhop somewhere from 50-58*f

I’ll second this. I almost exclusively brew with LA3 and this is almost bang on what I do as well.

 

[kingmatt]

I am one of the lucky person that never taste/smell cedar from Sabro. I drank a lot of neipa with sabro in it and it's my favorite hop of 2020. Brewed a lot of neipa with sabro and it was one of the best. Only 1 time I had coconut flavor from Sabro rest of it is 100% tropical creamy.

I've never experienced the "woody" character some people complain about with from Sabro but I do get coconut pretty consistently. I enjoy it with other hops but I'm not sure I'd like it in a single hop beer.