Agree. I’ve done 20% Nelson and it completely dominated the Citra. It was the most dominant hop flavor I’ve ever gotten.
Where’s everyone getting their chit malt from? It seems a little more difficult to get.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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Where’s everyone getting their chit malt from? It seems a little more difficult to get.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
The only place I’ve found to have it in stock is Great Fermentation. I’m still on the fence about it, I’m having a hard time finding if it made any difference than my usual mix of malted oats and wheat
https://shop.greatfermentations.com/product/best-malz-chit-malt/specialty-grains
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
New beer....50/50 split of Citra Lupomax and Galaxy. I only dry hopped this one for 24 hours and it is super soft with zero astringency/hop burn/bite. The aroma isn’t incredibly strong but I think it may intensify with some time in the keg. It’s only spent one day in the dry hop keg and one day carbing in the serving keg.
68% 2-row
13% flaked oats
13% white wheat
3% carafoam
3% c-10
.5 oz galaxy/.5 oz Citra lm at 10
.5 oz galaxy/.5 oz Citra lm at 5
1 oz galaxy/1 oz Citra lm at FO
6 oz galaxy/6 oz Citra lm DH
I’ll say the Galaxy is nice and I’m definitely not getting any of the harsh or undesirable characteristics from it that have been discussed here before.
I pitched one pack of verdant and one pack of New England and I think I’ll be doing this much more often in the future.
Day 1: 68
Day 2: 69
Day 3: 70
Day 4: 71
Day 5: 72
Day 6: 72
Day 7: 72
Day 8: remove heat
Day 9: 60
Day 10: 60
Day 11: Transfer to DH keg
Day 12: Transfer to serving keg
1.070 - 1.014
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aaronm13
Well-Known Member
That's very true, it's all personal preference. I was worried about the Nelson totally taking over but think it's going to be good. It's easily the best combination along with Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy.
I always like your approach
I assume you mean Lallemand New England, the Conan variant? Read some poor reviews on hbt when pitched alone. Have you only cop-itched so far?Picked up a couple packs of Verdant recently & I’m anxious to try it.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
Yes, the Lallemand New England. I’m enjoying mixing dry yeasts lately. I used the Lallemand pitch rate calculator, fully aware that the cell count in the New England is woefully low, and determined that (according to the calculator) 1 pack of verdant is suggested to be good for 2/3 of a 5 gallon batch of 1.070 wort, and 1 pack of the New England is suggested to be good for 1/3 of a 5 gallon batch of 1.070 wort. So pitching 1 pack of each results in about 2/3 verdant and 1/3 Conan. Obviously there are many factors that come into play but I used that rough estimate and am very pleased with the results. I intend to use this exact combo for many future brews.I always like your approach
Picked up a couple packs of Verdant recently & I’m anxious to try it.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
Finally got around to brewing another batch - 5 gallons finished
71% Rahr 2-Row
12.9% Carapils
12.9% White Wheat Malt
3.2% Honey malt
5.3SRM
OG 1.065
Shooting for a final gravity of 1.018, ABV around 6.2%. It's currently fermenting with Imperial's A04 Barbarian and naturally purging the serving keg with CO2 produced from fermentation.
2oz Citra
2oz Mosiac
2oz Azaaca
1oz Centennial in the whirl pool, staggered from flame out and then 180F degrees for 30 min, no boil hops.
Planning on Dry hopping with Citra, Mosiac and Azaaca and possibly Idaho 7. From the reading i've been doing, it seems like azaaca isn't as pungent however I wanted to see what sort of mango character it would part.
71% Rahr 2-Row
12.9% Carapils
12.9% White Wheat Malt
3.2% Honey malt
5.3SRM
OG 1.065
Shooting for a final gravity of 1.018, ABV around 6.2%. It's currently fermenting with Imperial's A04 Barbarian and naturally purging the serving keg with CO2 produced from fermentation.
2oz Citra
2oz Mosiac
2oz Azaaca
1oz Centennial in the whirl pool, staggered from flame out and then 180F degrees for 30 min, no boil hops.
Planning on Dry hopping with Citra, Mosiac and Azaaca and possibly Idaho 7. From the reading i've been doing, it seems like azaaca isn't as pungent however I wanted to see what sort of mango character it would part.
NEIPA #2 is in the books. Going into a 3 gallon keg, went with a little larger batch with the plan of leaving some of the material behind
Original Gravity: 1.075
Final Gravity: 1.019
ABV (standard): 7.37%
IBU (tinseth): 25.47
SRM (morey): 6.24
Mash pH: 5.72
FERMENTABLES:
Pale 2-Row (75.7%)
White Wheat (16.2%)
Flaked Oats (5.4%)
Honey Malt (2.7%)
HOPS:
1 oz - AU Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 160 °F, IBU: 13.98
1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 160 °F, IBU: 11.48
1 oz - AU Vic Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 17.4, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 160 °F
1 oz - AU Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: Dry Hop (High Krausen) for 5 min
1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Dry Hop (High Krausen) for 5 min
1 oz - AU Vic Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 17.4, Use: Dry Hop (High Krausen) for 5 min
MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temperature, Temp: 151 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 4.5 gal
YEAST:
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318
Starter: Yes
Attenuation (avg): 73%
TARGET WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Light colored and hoppy
Ca2: 100
Mg2: 12
Na: 8
Cl: 153
SO4: 81
HCO3: 0
Water Notes:
Bru'n Water pH - 5.35
Everything went well, hit all my numbers and such. Used a paint strainer bag during the whirlpool. Worked pretty well to keep some of the hop material out of the fermenter...but was a PITA to work with. May be time to look at a hop spider. None the less, I was able to remove a good amount of hop material that should help with the transfer. Plan to bag my DH, to help keep the hop material out of the keg also. Probably a lot of basic process stuff for many of you, but I'm new to kegging, and new to brewing these...so.
Overall I was stoked with how my 1st NEIPA came out, despite the troubles I had. Think this one should be even better, but ready to see how it goes.
Original Gravity: 1.075
Final Gravity: 1.019
ABV (standard): 7.37%
IBU (tinseth): 25.47
SRM (morey): 6.24
Mash pH: 5.72
FERMENTABLES:
Pale 2-Row (75.7%)
White Wheat (16.2%)
Flaked Oats (5.4%)
Honey Malt (2.7%)
HOPS:
1 oz - AU Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 160 °F, IBU: 13.98
1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 160 °F, IBU: 11.48
1 oz - AU Vic Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 17.4, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 160 °F
1 oz - AU Galaxy, Type: Pellet, AA: 14, Use: Dry Hop (High Krausen) for 5 min
1 oz - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Dry Hop (High Krausen) for 5 min
1 oz - AU Vic Secret, Type: Pellet, AA: 17.4, Use: Dry Hop (High Krausen) for 5 min
MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temperature, Temp: 151 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 4.5 gal
YEAST:
Wyeast - London Ale III 1318
Starter: Yes
Attenuation (avg): 73%
TARGET WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Light colored and hoppy
Ca2: 100
Mg2: 12
Na: 8
Cl: 153
SO4: 81
HCO3: 0
Water Notes:
Bru'n Water pH - 5.35
Everything went well, hit all my numbers and such. Used a paint strainer bag during the whirlpool. Worked pretty well to keep some of the hop material out of the fermenter...but was a PITA to work with. May be time to look at a hop spider. None the less, I was able to remove a good amount of hop material that should help with the transfer. Plan to bag my DH, to help keep the hop material out of the keg also. Probably a lot of basic process stuff for many of you, but I'm new to kegging, and new to brewing these...so.
Overall I was stoked with how my 1st NEIPA came out, despite the troubles I had. Think this one should be even better, but ready to see how it goes.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the world of chasing the dragon. Nailing the perfect NEIPA is so elusive yet so rewarding as you find different tweaks that get you closer to your ultimate goal. Enjoy the ride and please continue to share your experiences. So many of us here are in the same boat as you.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Have you found any negatives from just doing a single, large dry hop? Brewed a Verdant "Putty" clone this morning and thinking ahead to the dry hop. Its a Galaxy, Mosaic and Azacca DIPA. Hands down one of the best beers I've ever had.
How's this beer developing for you? My dipa that I kegged on Friday and was so impressed with has fallen off a cliff already. Can't understand, Kinda getting a slight vegetal flavor again and the hops feel muted already. The Nelson was just about right in it over the weekend and from the sample I tried last night it was completely gone. Really hoping this is just part of the conditioning process but I don't think I've ever had a beer taste good right away to go poor after a few day and magically turn great again. Brewing is such a heartbreaker.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
The aroma really hasn’t increased much on this one which is slightly disappointing but it takes and drinks beautifully. I think the 24 hour dry hop prob had something to do with it so I’ll be going back to a 2 or 3 day dry hop. I’ve never noticed much of a difference from doing one large dry hop vs several smaller additions although some other people have. I’ve been kind of obsessed with limiting o2 and doing the one large dry hop in a dry hop keg works best for my set up...in my opinion. I hope your beer comes back to life, I totally understand being let down by a batch that you had high hopes for.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Think I'm going to try and ring up the dry hop keg to purge from fermentation that you mentioned before just to limit opening the keg. Even with purging with pushing star san out like I do I still have to open the keg after to get the hops in. I'm sure I can wait 24 hours or so for active fermentation to kick off before I do this.
Do you use a spunding valve to keep some pressure in the keg till it builds up with fermentation? I'm thinking 5psi would be ok to seal the keg and put the hops under some co2. This will be all done outside my fermentation fridge so wont be able to run the spunding valve into a jar of star san as my brewery is in our spare room and my wife has set up her office there because of working from home. The constant bubbling would drive her mad.
I wont panic about my other beer till it hits the 2 week mark and still tastes bad. Wondering should I dial the hops back again. Did it with around 9oz
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
Nitro gas works fantastically to put head pressure onto kegs. The N2 won't dissolve, so you never have to worry about the head pressure dropping as a keg ages. I use it whenever I want to seal up a keg and let it sit if it is uncarbonated.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
The ball lock keg post on the top of the fermenter runs the CO2 through the tube into the first keg, which is the DryHop keg. The dry hops are sitting in the bottom of that keg. The tube from the DryHop keg is running into the eventual serving keg as well. All the CO2 then comes out down into a jug of star San on the ground. The fermenter never gets opened, and then a closed transfer is done into the dry hop keg. There is a filter over the dip tube in the DryHop keg. Once the dry hopping is complete the beer is then jumped into the serving keg by the same tubing that connects them during the fermentation process.
For this current batch I actually liquid purged the serving keg first and then attached it to also receive a further flushing from the fermentations CO2. All the lines are purged before transfers. I definitely assume that the fact you are opening the keg is having a negative impact on lasting aroma.
For this batch I also added .3 grams of sodium metabisulfate and 3 grams of Ascorbic Acid into the dry hop keg to hopefully scavenge any oxygen that may have found its way in. I also added the same ratio of SMB and AA to the serving keg, prior to pushing out the 5 gallons. The hope is that the same ratio will be in the inevitable small amount of liquid at the bottom of the keg that did not get pushed out.
Any and all oxygen is absolute killer. I’m trying everything I can to eliminate it.
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
The cooling receptacle on the inkbird has an aquarium pump plugged into it no doubt? That's a pretty cool setup if you're too cheap or don't have space for a small fridge/freezer.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
Yup. A little aquarium pump and it works beautifully. I have a 7 cubic foot chest freezer that I use to hold full kegs and dispense from. At the moment I don’t really have room for an additional chest freezer or fridge. I used to ferment in it but it became such a pain in the butt always trying to balance fermenting in it and serving from it. I searched for a way to be able to have similar temp control but not need to use an actual chest freezer or refrigerator and stumbled upon this. It works really well, but my only complaint is that when fermentation is really raging you may have to change the ice water a bit more often. But other than that it’s great.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Thats a nice set up and pictures definitely help. Great idea about doing the serving keg too. Would there really be enough gas produced to purge 2 kegs fully. Really want to eliminate O2 as much as possible so setting this up now. I can get 3/16 beer line out between the seal on my fridge without drilling, would this be suitable or is it too small, Does it need to me 3/8 beer line? Would like to avoid drilling the fridge but wont be the end of the world if I have to.
I must pick up some Sodium Metabisulfate and Ascorbic Acid to see if that helps too
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
You’re simply running The CO2 through two kegs instead of one, so theoretically if you believe there is enough CO2 to purge one keg you could purge a bunch of kegs. It doesn’t really make a difference. The tubing in the picture is 3/16 but I’d imagine anything similar will work the same. This is the first time I’m trying the SMB and a AA So I don’t have any actual experience with it. I’ve read some pretty positive things about it though which prompted me to give it a try.
I do star san purges with co2, so for me to put SMB or AA in the keg I would have to open the keg after I purge which would defeat the purpose. So my question is could I add these to my fermenter either when I dry hop or cold crash to help or would that have no benefit?
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
This will be my set up I think and don't need to drill the fridge as the 3/16 beer line goes in each side of the door and into a jar of star san so I can keep the wife happy.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
I’m not sure to be honest. I know that it’s typically added at packaging. I’m going to give it a shot in the dry hop keg.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Thanks, will try the AA next time. I keg so my beer is always cold. Hopefully this is just part of the conditioning process.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Have the fermenter blow off connected to the dry hop and serving keg with the hops in the dry hop one. @HopsAreGood do you find the aroma of the dry hops been blown off? The smell in my fridge is incredible and I'm worried the aroma is going to suffer because of this. Second generation of LAIII is ripping through things so far.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
Nope. I have not found any loss of aroma doing it this way. I honestly think the biggest factor is the quality of the hops AND the ability to truly limit oxygen exposure. I did a beer about two months ago or so that was a few ounces of mosaic hot side, and then a single dry hop of 8 ounces of enigma. The beer was 1.076 -1.020 and the hops sat in the dry hop keg for close to 10 days. The result was one of the most aromatic beers I’ve ever brewed. The enigma was just so strong and pungent. I suppose your mileage may vary but for me it works great.
aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Wow, sounds good so. I'm probably just over thinking things. Always get a lovely smell in the fermentation fridge but just seems a little stronger this time. Really looking forward to see the results of zero oxygen. I used some of that Aromazyme in the fermenter too so curious about that too. The Yakima Galaxy smelled better than the last bag of broccoli they sent me but still not amazing. Think I'm done buying Galaxy off them.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
I mean think about it...yes, the c02 is passing through the keg in which the dry hops are contained. So you should get a little extra boost in the smell that’s coming out. But just because that smell is coming out doesn’t mean they’re being stripped of their precious oils in the same way you’d get scrubbing of aroma if they were added in to the wort during fermentation. When they are vacuum sealed in a package it’s obviously to keep them free from oxygen. (For long term storage. The hop producers have no idea when the end user is actually going to use them) When you open them up and put them in the dry hop keg, yes they are exposed to oxygen for a few days before the keg becomes fully purged. But in my experience doing it this way, those few days have absolutely zero negative impact on their ability to impart their goods into the finished beer. For me, 80 to 90% of fermentation is usually done within 72 hours, so at that point they’re essentially just sitting in an oxygen free environment no different than the bag that they were previously in. I’ve also heard people talk about finding some positive effects of letting hops breathe a little bit and or age. While conventional wisdom may lead you to believe that you want to put them into your beer five seconds after opening the package, I have never noticed any negative affect by doing it this way. If anything, I’ve noticed superior results doing it this way as opposed to opening up the fermenter and dropping the hops in......Even while flushing it while adding the hops, and purging it a million times afterwards.
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aaronm13
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the detailed run through, it does make a lot of sense when you think about it. Brewing makes you so paranoid about little things like leaving out your hops. Brings out my inner OCD. I double dry hop so that's opening my fermenter which I do purge then opening the dry hop keg. So that's two opportunities for oxygen to get in even with my best purging efforts.
