New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Roxhambrewshed]

View attachment 720408

This is my attempt at avoiding o2 pickup.

I welded a triclover assembly onto a 10 gal corny that functions as a "dry hop cannon". Here's how it works:

-Dry hop charge in the cannon at yeast pitch. The cannon valve (blue handle) is cracked enough to let gas through but prevents hops from passing through.
-Co2 from fermentation purges through dry hops into serving keg (not shown).
-Spund valve on serving keg towards end of fermentation.
-After soft crash, dry hop by opening cannon valve fully.
-Forced transfer under pressure by disconnecting gas quick connect and applying Co2 pressure (bronze check valve).

The latest addition to this setup was the tee, which allows me to not have to connect or disconnect any posts at any point, which I suspect are a source of o2 pickup. I'm kind of nervous about it inadvertently transferring half way through fermentation but I did a few tests and I don't think that will happen.

It's a bit of a janky diy solution but there is zero opportunity for o2 pickup.

I think there is a fallacy that hop pellets are solid. They are not. There are all sorts of nooks and crannies that entrain air. Even if you purge the headspace while you dry hop, you're more than likely picking up o2 if those hops have sat in the open air for any amount of time.

Nice setup! I did not know 10 gal. Corny kegs existed ! Where did you get yours? All I found was some sketchy refurbished ones on ebay with questionable sanitary welds.

 

[Andre3000]

I wouldnt call it janky, its a very nice setup.
Have you noticed any difference from previous batches?

I did to a point. But I still had some minor oxidation. I'm aiming for zero basically. I don't consume my beers quickly these days.

Nice setup! I did not know 10 gal. Corny kegs existed ! Where did you get yours? All I found was some sketchy refurbished ones on ebay with questionable sanitary welds.

A local homebrew shop had about five of them second hand and it was first come first served. It was reasonably priced if I recall too; under or around $100 I think.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

View attachment 720408

This is my attempt at avoiding o2 pickup.

I welded a triclover assembly onto a 10 gal corny that functions as a "dry hop cannon". Here's how it works:

-Dry hop charge in the cannon at yeast pitch. The cannon valve (blue handle) is cracked enough to let gas through but prevents hops from passing through.
-Co2 from fermentation purges through dry hops into serving keg (not shown).
-Spund valve on serving keg towards end of fermentation.
-After soft crash, dry hop by opening cannon valve fully.
-Forced transfer under pressure by disconnecting gas quick connect and applying Co2 pressure (bronze check valve).

The latest addition to this setup was the tee, which allows me to not have to connect or disconnect any posts at any point, which I suspect are a source of o2 pickup. I'm kind of nervous about it inadvertently transferring half way through fermentation but I did a few tests and I don't think that will happen.

It's a bit of a janky diy solution but there is zero opportunity for o2 pickup.

I think there is a fallacy that hop pellets are solid. They are not. There are all sorts of nooks and crannies that entrain air. Even if you purge the headspace while you dry hop, you're more than likely picking up o2 if those hops have sat in the open air for any amount of time.

Nice. I ferment in 5 gal cornys and have often daydreamed about how it would be cool to modify it and add something like that. Too bad I don't weld.

Question though. If you're going through all that trouble to add the dry hopper I would think the goal would be to be able to purge the dry hops going in with gas, so they're not sitting there at ferm temps the whole time? I essentially do the same thing but with a 2nd dry hop keg, loaded with hops and purged via fermentation. Obviously it's optimal O2 prevention but my only concern has been wondering if there's any degradation while they're sitting there. The absolute perfect method(IMO) would be having a contraption like yours where you can keep the hops sealed and frozen until the second before you need them, but still be able to completely purge them of O2.

 

[Dgallo]

Nice. I ferment in 5 gal cornys and have often daydreamed about how it would be cool to modify it and add something like that. Too bad I don't weld.

Question though. If you're going through all that trouble to add the dry hopper I would think the goal would be to be able to purge the dry hops going in with gas, so they're not sitting there at ferm temps the whole time? I essentially do the same thing but with a 2nd dry hop keg, loaded with hops and purged via fermentation. Obviously it's optimal O2 prevention but my only concern has been wondering if there's any degradation while they're sitting there. The absolute perfect method(IMO) would be having a contraption like yours where you can keep the hops sealed and frozen until the second before you need them, but still be able to completely purge them of O2.

Idk if he is around anymore but I am almost certain @kevink built exactly what you’re talking about. If I recall it was vacuum/purging chamber

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Idk if he is around anymore but I am almost certain @kevink built exactly what you’re talking about. If I recall it was vacuum/purging chamber

I remember that post, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't a corny though. It's not hard to do that on a vessel with TCs, although the vacuum part was unique. Welding one onto a corny keg certainly is pretty cool.

 

[Dgallo]

I remember that post, but I'm pretty sure it wasn't a corny though. It's not hard to do that on a vessel with TCs, although the vacuum part was unique. Welding one onto a corny keg certainly is pretty cool.

True but isn’t @Andre3000 weld set up for TCs now? So he could potentially do it

 

[VirginiaHops1]

True but isn’t @Andre3000 weld set up for TCs now? So he could potentially do it

Absolutely he could. I was mainly just curious his thought process on why he put the hops in the chamber and purged with fermentation, vs keeping the hops sealed and thoroughly purging them with gas immediately before dry hopping.

 

[Dgallo]

Absolutely he could. I was mainly just curious his thought process on why he put the hops in the chamber and purged with fermentation, vs keeping the hops sealed and thoroughly purging them with gas immediately before dry hopping.

Now I understand. Sorry we just had our second baby this week and the lack of sleep has made my brain a little slower lol

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Now I understand. Sorry we just had our second baby this week and the lack of sleep has made my brain a little slower lol

Haha no worries man and congrats. I totally know how that goes

 

[Andre3000]

Absolutely he could. I was mainly just curious his thought process on why he put the hops in the chamber and purged with fermentation, vs keeping the hops sealed and thoroughly purging them with gas immediately before dry hopping.

I did draw my inspiration from @kevink .

You know, I thought of this and I am concerned about it as well. I don't like the thought of the hops sitting there for days either, but for the majority of the time they will be surrounded by CO2. A one time purge isn't really a straightforward operation either if you think about the steps required and you buy my nooks and crannies theory.

I also kind of have this idea in my head that the CO2 going past the hops is stripping out the delicious volatiles and bye bye they go out the air lock. Not sure how real that is either.

This is the first time I'm trying loading them into the chamber for the entire duration. We'll see if it still produces delicious beer. Will definitely report back.

 

[Dgallo]

Has anyone used spelt as their base malt for a NEIPA? If so, what did you think?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Has anyone used spelt as their base malt for a NEIPA? If so, what did you think?

I have not myself. I have used spelt before (wheat ale) but not as a base malt. From my readings on it (mostly from BYO I think and online retailers selling it), it is really a wheat grain but higher in proteins than white wheat. So I have only seen it as a substitute for wheat. I still have some myself to use up and have considered using it instead of my normal white wheat % and then bumping it up a bit. Its suppose to have a "soft and pillowy" mouthfeel (marketing gimmick? lol). My only fear is if its used in two high of amount that it gets "chewy" which is how I describe white wheat when used in high amounts. FWIW, in my wheat ale, I actually split my 50% white wheat into 20% white wheat / 30% spelt. Beer turned out great but have no clue how spelt contributed because that was the only wheat beer Ive made to date lol. Sorry I couldn't be more of a help.

 

[WIexile]

Been rather busy for the last few months, but finally got around to brewing again. Since Bell's isnt dropping Smitten this spring I decided to make a "cloneish" NEIPA of it. Rather happy with the results.

 

[Dgallo]

The list grows

Cashmere’s AA Is only 13.5 which is awesome.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

The list grows
View attachment 720725
Cashmere’s AA Is only 13.5 which is awesome.

"only" 13.5% AA? Isn't cashmere AAs lower than that for the t90 pellets? Never used LUPOMAX hops yet myself, but it seems that since they are concentrated, as far as the AAs are concerned, you would need less to get IBUs you want on the hot side for sure. But for DH I think I wouldn't mind using my same hop dosages with LUPOMAX to get more intense flavors with the same dosage rather than using less ounces for the same intensity as nonlupomax pellets. How have others been doing this with DHing? Keeping your same recipe dosages if using LUPOMAX or reducing the dosages? Im hoping that they release Idaho 7 on this this year.

 

[Dgallo]

"only" 13.5% AA? Isn't cashmere AAs lower than that for the t90 pellets? Never used LUPOMAX hops yet myself, but it seems that since they are concentrated, as far as the AAs are concerned, you would need less to get IBUs you want on the hot side for sure.

It is. But its still lower than most of our major players t90 pellets but your getting nearly twice the concentration. Meaning for those who believe there is a benefit from hotside additions, could use it at higher rate hotside without having to worry as much about ibus

 

[beervoid]

"only" 13.5% AA? Isn't cashmere AAs lower than that for the t90 pellets? Never used LUPOMAX hops yet myself, but it seems that since they are concentrated, as far as the AAs are concerned, you would need less to get IBUs you want on the hot side for sure. But for DH I think I wouldn't mind using my same hop dosages with LUPOMAX to get more intense flavors with the same dosage rather than using less ounces for the same intensity as nonlupomax pellets. How have others been doing this with DHing? Keeping your same recipe dosages if using LUPOMAX or reducing the dosages? Im hoping that they release Idaho 7 on this this year.

I would say the opppsite, the idea behind these products is less vegetal matter, which imho really helps for brighter and more expressive hop flavor.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I would say the opppsite, the idea behind these products is less vegetal matter, which imho really helps for brighter and more expressive hop flavor.

Not sure I follow what you are saying. I get that these hops are more efficient at producing the true hop flavor with less vegetal matter/flavors, but Im wondering HOW peeps have been using them. Are people generally using the same dosages(ounces) as the regular t90 pellet recipes in order to get even more intense hop flavors OR are people generally using less dosages (because they are more "efficient" at delivering what we want - flavor) which would theoretically result in similar flavor profiles as the t90 pellets? Thanks!

EDIT: I would also like to see the total oil content of these products and not just the AAs as mentioned on YVH website. Unless, the total oil content is the same as t90 pellets? It would seem to me more than just the AAs would differ compared to t90 pellets? Just trying to best understand the product is all.

 

[BeerFst]

Not sure I follow what you are saying. I get that these hops are more efficient at producing the true hop flavor with less vegetal matter/flavors, but Im wondering HOW peeps have been using them. Are people generally using the same dosages(ounces) as the regular t90 pellet recipes in order to get even more intense hop flavors OR are people generally using less dosages (because they are more "efficient" at delivering what we want - flavor) which would theoretically result in similar flavor profiles as the t90 pellets? Thanks!

EDIT: I would also like to see the total oil content of these products and not just the AAs as mentioned on YVH website. Unless, the total oil content is the same as t90 pellets? It would seem to me more than just the AAs would differ compared to t90 pellets? Just trying to best understand the product is all.

Admittedly I’ve never used them but would match ibu hot side, match weight on dry hop. Whirlpool is a bit tougher, not sure what I’d do

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Admittedly I’ve never used them but would match ibu hot side, match weight on dry hop. Whirlpool is a bit tougher, not sure what I’d do

I agree on this as Ive not used the lupomax myself yet either. For whirlpool, if AAs are higher than normal t90 pellets, I would imagine that you'd want to go low for temps ~150ish to get the flavors without adding significant IBUs.

 

[beervoid]

Not sure I follow what you are saying. I get that these hops are more efficient at producing the true hop flavor with less vegetal matter/flavors, but Im wondering HOW peeps have been using them. Are people generally using the same dosages(ounces) as the regular t90 pellet recipes in order to get even more intense hop flavors OR are people generally using less dosages (because they are more "efficient" at delivering what we want - flavor) which would theoretically result in similar flavor profiles as the t90 pellets? Thanks!

EDIT: I would also like to see the total oil content of these products and not just the AAs as mentioned on YVH website. Unless, the total oil content is the same as t90 pellets? It would seem to me more than just the AAs would differ compared to t90 pellets? Just trying to best understand the product is all.

A similar question as how much hops do you think is the max worth to throw at an ipa and do you taste a flavor difference.
I would argue that if you use lupomax and use it to cut down on vegetal matter you will taste more of a difference then maximizing total amounts with it. Might be even better mixing it all up as Other Half does for example with their HDHC technique.
This all aside, I put 6oz lupomax only and get a very saturated pungent hop flavor out of it and suspect u can go lower then this and still be a very happy hophead.

 

[Dgallo]

While searching for more info I came across this. Really interesting, EQ owner and brewer states their typical dryhop is 3lb/bbl which is just under 2 oz/gallon. Some other really good info on LUPOMAX and Equilibrium here (also some not relevant info for us). They also hint that there are even more Haas products that they are beta testing that they aren’t allowed to talk about yet
https://www.johnihaas.com/blog/brewers-spotlight-equilibrium-brewing-lupomaxtm/

 

[R.A.I.D]

I have brewed this nice Trillium Streets inspired NEIPA with Nectaron.

"It tastes like tropical fruit juice! Mango, grape, pineapple, passion fruit. Easy drinking. This sh** is dangerous!"​

​

​

RAW (No boil)
In WP kettle: 21 L (5.5 us gallons)
Into fermenter: 18.5-19 L (5 us gallons)
Into dry hop keg: 16.0-16.5 L
Into serving keg: 14.0 L

Water profile:
Ca 115 | Mg 15 | Na 100 | SO4 50 | Cl 200

OG: 1070
FG: 1013
ABV: 7.5
Mash: 62C 60min
Mash out: 76C 15min (169F) for pasteurization.

Pale Ale malt: 4500g
Wheat malt: 1000g
Honig malt: 300g
Chit malt: 200g
Table sugar: 250g

Mash hops: 18g Columbus (2018)
WP hops at 76C (mash out temp): 90g Columbus (2020)
WP hops at 42C: 35g Columbus (2019)
DH: 150g Nectaron (2020), 25g Columbus (2020)

Ascorbic acid, 1g, with DH
Citric acid, 0.5g, with DH

Yeast nutrient, boiled 10 min and added to WP kettle.

Yeast:
Mangrove Jacks M66 Hophead Ale Yeast (yeast and enzyme blend), 1 pkg, rehydrated with GoFerm.

Pitch 23C (73F)
Fermentation 19C (66F) for 7 days
Fermentation 23C (73F) for 3 days, PRV 1 bar.
Cold crash at -1C for 3 days.
Heat to 16C. Closed transfer to (fermentation purged) dry hop keg. Started a new cold crash right away. Shaked for 10 min after 4 hours (was chilled to 9C at that point in time) and force carbonated at the same time. Continued cold crash.
Cold crash at -1C for 4 days (still on dry hop).
Closed transfer to purged serving keg.

I tasted it before dry hopping: Not much aroma. Nice yellow. Not a hint of orange. Stable head. Solid haze. Taste: A little anonymous but dank base. Not much complexity. Burns a little (but is of course not ready yet). Suitable bitterness level. The M66 yeast comes with enzymes. But I can not point out anything in this beer that could be related to that enzyme activity.

Tasted again the day for the transfer to the serving keg: Zero hop burn. Ready to drink. Beautiful yellow. Mild aroma. Mild taste. Light body (relative to the style). Nice spring beer. Suitable and balanced bitterness in the aftertaste for my personal preference. The main contribution to the bitterness in this beer is not alpha acids but other different hop compounds. The bitterness is different from the bitterness from boiled hops. Different from what you normally find in a beer, but still balance out the sweetness.
It smells and tastes like tropical fruit juice! Mango, grape, pineapple, passion fruit. Easy drinking. This sh** is dangerous.

I think I will go back to S-33, which is my favorite NEIPA yeast until now (out of LA3, S-04, Lallemand NE, Horningdal kveik) given its incredible ability to boost aroma. S-33 will also result in a higher FG, which might give the beer a bit more body. I will also let the beer stay on DH at 16C for 4 hours before I start shaking and cold crashing hoping for more intense taste. I might also back down on the WP amount given the latest discussions in this thread, and the kind of disappointing tasting notes from the tasting before dry hopping.

 

[beervoid]

I have brewed this nice Trillium Streets inspired NEIPA with Nectaron.

"It tastes like tropical fruit juice! Mango, grape, pineapple, passion fruit. Easy drinking. This sh** is dangerous!"​

​

View attachment 720746​

RAW (No boil)
In WP kettle: 21 L (5.5 us gallons)
Into fermenter: 18.5-19 L (5 us gallons)
Into dry hop keg: 16.0-16.5 L
Into serving keg: 14.0 L

Water profile:
Ca 115 | Mg 15 | Na 100 | SO4 50 | Cl 200

OG: 1070
FG: 1013
ABV: 7.5
Mash: 62C 60min
Mash out: 76C 15min (169F) for pasteurization.

Pale Ale malt: 4500g
Wheat malt: 1000g
Honig malt: 300g
Chit malt: 200g
Table sugar: 250g

Mash hops: 18g Columbus (2018)
WP hops at 76C (mash out temp): 90g Columbus (2020)
WP hops at 42C: 35g Columbus (2019)
DH: 150g Nectaron (2020), 25g Columbus (2020)

Ascorbic acid, 1g, with DH
Citric acid, 0.5g, with DH

Yeast nutrient, boiled 10 min and added to WP kettle.

Yeast:
Mangrove Jacks M66 Hophead Ale Yeast (yeast and enzyme blend), 1 pkg, rehydrated with GoFerm.

Pitch 23C (73F)
Fermentation 19C (66F) for 7 days
Fermentation 23C (73F) for 3 days, PRV 1 bar.
Cold crash at -1C for 3 days.
Heat to 16C. Closed transfer to (fermentation purged) dry hop keg. Started a new cold crash right away. Shaked to 10 min after 4 hours (was chilled to 9C at that point in time) and force carbonated at the same time. Continued cold crash.
Cold crash at -1C for 4 days (still on dry hop).
Closed transfer to purged serving keg.

I tasted it before dry hopping: Not much aroma. Nice yellow. Not a hint of orange. Stable head. Solid haze. Taste: A little anonymous but dank base. Not much complexity. Burns a little (but is of course not ready yet). Suitable bitterness level. The M66 yeast comes with enzymes. But I can not point out anything in this beer that could be related to that enzyme activity.

Tasted again the day for the transfer to the serving keg: Zero hop burn. Ready to drink. Beautiful yellow. Mild aroma. Mild taste. Light body (relative to the style). Nice spring beer. Suitable and balanced bitterness in the aftertaste for my personal preference. The main contribution to the bitterness in this beer is not alpha acids but other different hop compounds. The bitterness is different from the bitterness from boiled hops. Different from what you normally find in a beer, but still balance out the sweetness.
It smells and tastes like tropical fruit juice! Mango, grape, pineapple, passion fruit. Easy drinking. This sh** is dangerous.

I think I will go back to S-33, which is my favorite NEIPA yeast until now (out of LA3, S-04, Lallemand NE, Horningdal kveik) given its incredible ability to boost aroma. S-33 will also result in a higher FG, which might give the beer a bit more body. I will also let the beer stay on DH at 16C for 4 hours before I start shaking and cold crashing hoping for more intense taste. I might also back down on the WP amount given the latest discussions in this thread, and the kind of disappointing tasting notes from the tasting before dry hopping.

That yeast is new for me, thanks for sharing.
What i'm always wondering with these enzymes is at what temps do they work?
And how much oils are left from a WP addition for them to work on, and if during vigorous fermentation how much of what is won is blown out again.

 

[aaronm13]

"only" 13.5% AA? Isn't cashmere AAs lower than that for the t90 pellets? Never used LUPOMAX hops yet myself, but it seems that since they are concentrated, as far as the AAs are concerned, you would need less to get IBUs you want on the hot side for sure. But for DH I think I wouldn't mind using my same hop dosages with LUPOMAX to get more intense flavors with the same dosage rather than using less ounces for the same intensity as nonlupomax pellets. How have others been doing this with DHing? Keeping your same recipe dosages if using LUPOMAX or reducing the dosages? Im hoping that they release Idaho 7 on this this year.

Brewing a Citra and Nelson DIPA tomorrow and using 2020 Citra Lupomax. Going with the recommended 30% less dosage compared to T90 pellets. Will be 4oz Nelson and 5oz Citra Lupomax in the dry hop.

 

[DawgPen Brewing]

I have a question that I haven't seen answered yet or at least I couldn't find it scrolling through things. If it has been answered if someone could point me in the right direction it would be very appreciated.

My question is what are the effects of adding the dry hops at different times since I see differing information with some recipes suggesting a dry hop before the peak of krausen formation (basically a couple days into fermentation) and other options that state 6 days and 3 days before kegging. I have found a lot of contradicting information regarding how vegetal flavors can be introduced by longer dry hops but it does seem to have some benefit to dry hop during active fermentation because any oxygen introduced during the dry hopping process would likely be scrubbed away from the yeast. What does the group say about the benefits of earlier or later dry hopping and what impact will it have on the flavors of the beer (increased aromas, more fruity, etc.)?

These articles seem to suggest a shorter dry hop may be more appropriate:

https://bsgcraftbrewing.com/reevaluating-dry-hop-techniques
http://scottjanish.com/a-case-for-s...y polyphenols from dry,lead to less hop creep.

What is the group consensus? I was leaning to moving my dry hops more toward the active fermentation timeframe but this suggests that a couple days is all that would be needed. Can anyone provide some clarity for me?

 

[Dplonk87]

I’m a big fan of that combo. I personally wouldn’t bother with one 1 oz of Idaho 7 in the DH, probably would use at least 2 if I’m looking for the profile to come out in the aroma. Otherwise I would move that oz on the hotside and do a Citra/strata dh.

I would like to use that hop combination but have not purchased hops yet. If there is no constraint from already having specific quantities of hops is that still what you would recommend?

 

[Dgallo]

I would like to use that hop combination but have not purchased hops yet. If there is no constraint from already having specific quantities of hops is that still what you would recommend?

There’s a lot of great hop combos. That is certainly one of them. What’s cool about Citra/strata/idaho 7 is you can mix up the ratio of each and even though they taste different, they are all good. It’s hard to say which I liked more but Strara/I7 hotside 1:1 and dryhop strata/I7/Citra 2:1:2 is a really good one. Might look something like this;

Hotside
Bitter from about .5-.65BU/GU with magnum or Columbus.
Late/whirlpool
2oz strata
2oz Idaho 7

Dryhop;
3 oz strata
1.5 oz Idaho 7
3 oz Citra

 

[TheToE]

Finally nailed this one thanks to you kind folks! Skipped the DH during active fermentation, waited till I hit terminal gravity. Lovely beer. Thanks all!

PS: The Yakima valley hops lupomax stuff is great! Went with citra and mosiac in equal portion.

 

[tomsen]

I made this recipe and I really like it. It has some notes of peach and I would like to amplify it, but I'm not sure how. I think it's the Sabro hops, but maybe some of you guys could chime in to improve this recipe:


malts:
62% pilsner
14% pale whaet
14% flaked oats
7% golden promise
3% honey malt

hops @5min left
30g sabro
30g citra
25g mosaic
hops for 15 min whirlpool around at 75°C:
50g citra
40g sabro
25g mosaic

dry hop after terminal gravity and after cold crash:
35g citra
30g sabro
15g mosaic