New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Noob_Brewer]

Sorry for the gut punch...not my intention at all. Just sharing my experience. The Nelson you have may be incredible. Report back and let us know how it goes.

Honest experiences are MUCH appreciated as always!

 

[aaronm13]

What’s your dryhoping rate? There has been a lot of talk here over the past few pages that in my eyes is far too much for clean varietal specific profiles to show themselves. More hops is not always better and can actually mute and muddy the aroma and flavor. Granted there is more oils and thoils in more hops but you are also increasing the amount of any undesirable compounds and Plant material profiles from the hops.

For a 5 gallon finished batch, I target my dryhop amount as followed,

-6-8 oz for a single ipa
-8-10oz for a double
-10-12oz for a Triple

Practically 1.2-2.25 oz/gallon in respect to OG

I get nice bright flavors and aromas with these amounts

I definitely go higher than that. So for example my latest brew is a 7.5% DIPA with Citra, Mosaic and Bru-1. It's only in the keg just under 2 weeks now and so far is pretty underwhelming. It's early days for this one I know but is following a similar path to my other brews over the last few months. So this one was dry hopped with 480g/16.9oz. This is roughly 24g/L. I dry hopped 3 times with this one.

Went back to a dry hop during fermentation this time as looking back at my notes I was still doing this early last year when I was still happy with what I was producing. So I added 4.2oz loose into the fermenter at 48 hours. I did a soft crash after fermentation was complete and added 6.3oz to a star san purged keg. After 48 hours I added another 6.3oz to the keg. Purged a few more times. All keg hops were added loose too.

So do you think my high dry hopping rates are actually having a negative effect on my brews?

 

[Dgallo]

I definitely go higher than that. So for example my latest brew is a 7.5% DIPA with Citra, Mosaic and Bru-1. It's only in the keg just under 2 weeks now and so far is pretty underwhelming. It's early days for this one I know but is following a similar path to my other brews over the last few months. So this one was dry hopped with 480g/16.9oz. This is roughly 24g/L. I dry hopped 3 times with this one.

Went back to a dry hop during fermentation this time as looking back at my notes I was still doing this early last year when I was still happy with what I was producing. So I added 4.2oz loose into the fermenter at 48 hours. I did a soft crash after fermentation was complete and added 6.3oz to a star san purged keg. After 48 hours I added another 6.3oz to the keg. Purged a few more times. All keg hops were added loose too.

So do you think my high dry hopping rates are actually having a negative effect on my brews?

Your dryhop uses 2-4 more oz than I use in my entire beer. Only my triples will I use a lb of hops in total. You’re dryhoping with what’s equivalent to 6.5 lbs/bbl of t90 pellets that are Homebrew quality. In my eyes that is a lot, I know a lot of breweries will claim this, but many of them have access to far better hops than us. They also use this number as marketing it’s not actually 7 lb/bbl of t90 pellets going in. OH for example counts their advanced hop product amounts in this figure. For example they will claim they dryhopped with “equivalent” of 7 lb/bbl and which in reality could be 3lb/bbl of cryo and 1lb/bbl. I’ve included a picture from their website so you know what I mean and this time they say 15lb/bbl


I know their are many ppl in the thread may do this. I’m not saying it’s wrong, but I would certainly implore you to try to reduce you hopping totals to about 2.5-3.0 oz/gallon in total and 1.2 - 2 oz/gallon. I’d also suggest cutting your dryhop to 1 or 2 addition (I still use 2). If you are following the best practices and process outlined in this thread for dryhoping and anti-o2, I think you will see much brighter and truer varietal specific character in your beers with a reduced hop amount

 

[HopsAreGood]

Your dryhop uses 2-4 more oz than I use in my entire beer. Only my triples will I use a lb of hops in total. You’re dryhoping with what’s equivalent to 6.5 lbs/bbl of t90 pellets that are Homebrew quality. In my eyes that is a lot, I know a lot of breweries will claim this, but many of them have access to far better hops than us. They also use this number as marketing it’s not actually 7 lb/bbl of t90 pellets going in. OH for example counts their advanced hop product amounts in this figure. For example they will claim they dryhopped with “equivalent” of 7 lb/bbl and which in reality could be 3lb/bbl of cryo and 1lb/bbl. I’ve included a picture from their website so you know what I mean and this time they say 15lb/bbl


I know their are many ppl in the thread may do this. I’m not saying it’s wrong, but I would certainly implore you to try to reduce you hopping totals to about 2.5-3.0 oz/gallon in total and 1.2 - 2 oz/gallon. I’d also suggest cutting your dryhop to 1 or 2 addition (I still use 2). If you are following the best practices and process outlined in this thread for dryhoping and anti-o2, I think you will see much brighter and truer varietal specific character in your beers with a reduced hop amountView attachment 715215

For these Insane beers like 15 pounds per barrel, they definitely use a combination of advanced hop products. But most of the breweries that I know and follow typically list things like cryo, incognito, Lupo Maxx, etc. in their beer descriptions because it makes them sound special. They want to get credit for using these ingredients because people think they sound cool, or feel like they should buy it because it has special ingredients.

I’ve seen Trillium list a beer that was 11 pounds per barrel, and I’m sure they were using incognito and whatever else to get to that level. But for a lot of breweries who are saying they’re dry hopping at five, six, even 7 pounds per barrel, I have no doubt that a lot of them are using only pellets. Granted, the quality of their pellets is probably superior to ours, but it’s certainly possible to use that much with just pellets and not have a muddy Finished product.

 

[Dgallo]

2020 LUPOMAX in now available

 

[nebulabrewing]

I get nice bright flavors and aromas with these amounts

My experience as well.

 

[aaronm13]

Your dryhop uses 2-4 more oz than I use in my entire beer. Only my triples will I use a lb of hops in total. You’re dryhoping with what’s equivalent to 6.5 lbs/bbl of t90 pellets that are Homebrew quality. In my eyes that is a lot, I know a lot of breweries will claim this, but many of them have access to far better hops than us. They also use this number as marketing it’s not actually 7 lb/bbl of t90 pellets going in. OH for example counts their advanced hop product amounts in this figure. For example they will claim they dryhopped with “equivalent” of 7 lb/bbl and which in reality could be 3lb/bbl of cryo and 1lb/bbl. I’ve included a picture from their website so you know what I mean and this time they say 15lb/bbl


I know their are many ppl in the thread may do this. I’m not saying it’s wrong, but I would certainly implore you to try to reduce you hopping totals to about 2.5-3.0 oz/gallon in total and 1.2 - 2 oz/gallon. I’d also suggest cutting your dryhop to 1 or 2 addition (I still use 2). If you are following the best practices and process outlined in this thread for dryhoping and anti-o2, I think you will see much brighter and truer varietal specific character in your beers with a reduced hop amountView attachment 715215

Hey, I'll give it a try, I've nothing to loose at this stage and so much more to gain and save hop wise. On this beer I outlined I took a sample when I transferred to the dry hop keg and I was so impressed with the hop flavor already and the was after only 4.2oz.

I weigh out all my hops on brew day so I had the 3 separate dry hops in vacuum bags. I said to myself that I'm going to try the beer after the second dry hop (6.3oz) as I was really happy with the sample but for whatever reason I forgot and went and added the third charge. If I had of done this I would have seen what it was like with 10.5oz so at the upper limit of your recommended range. Muddy would be a great description of the flavors as I can't pick out any of the individual hop flavors and with that amount of Citra it should be bursting with flavor at this stage. Worst case scenario, if I'm not happy with flavors with the lower amounts I could always add some more to the serving keg. These beers cost me a lot of money so any savings would be fantastic.

I'll give you another example of my rates if you don't mind me picking your brain, this is a combo you're familiar with as it's your Cashmere, Amarillo, Citra and Sabro so 5G batch and 1.080 Other Half Oat Cream DIPA, dry hopped with
Cashmere - 7.2oz
Amarillo - 4.4oz
Citra Lupomx and T90 - 2.1oz
Sabro Lupomax - 2.1oz

Best way to describe the flavor would be a mess at the start. was getting very little hop flavor. Was pretty unpleasant to drink and I really thought about dumping it. Left it for a while and went back to it, The Sabro really took over to the point it was pure Pina colada. It's drinkable now but if I got it in a bar I wouldn't order another.

So would these level line up with your thinking about more hops is not always a good thing?

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

I am in the 1oz per gallon DH boat for DIPAs (7.5-8.5 ABV) when using Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy/Eldo and I am not left wanting more. Some lower AA hops/oils I would bump it to 1.5oz per gallon. I used to dump a metric ton of hops in but I always felt like I was waiting for the beer to settle in and change flavor.

 

[TBryerton]

I definitely go higher than that. So for example my latest brew is a 7.5% DIPA with Citra, Mosaic and Bru-1. It's only in the keg just under 2 weeks now and so far is pretty underwhelming. It's early days for this one I know but is following a similar path to my other brews over the last few months. So this one was dry hopped with 480g/16.9oz. This is roughly 24g/L. I dry hopped 3 times with this one.

Went back to a dry hop during fermentation this time as looking back at my notes I was still doing this early last year when I was still happy with what I was producing. So I added 4.2oz loose into the fermenter at 48 hours. I did a soft crash after fermentation was complete and added 6.3oz to a star san purged keg. After 48 hours I added another 6.3oz to the keg. Purged a few more times. All keg hops were added loose too.

So do you think my high dry hopping rates are actually having a negative effect on my brews?

I don’t. I think most of the breweries pushing out high end hoppy beers are adding ALOT of hops. If you look at Other Half’s All Together recipe they use 10oz of DHs (pellets). Their DDH version of this beer is closer to what they typically push out.

I just kicked the keg of my most recent IPA. It tasted very similar to what Fidens is pushing out. I liked mine a little more - mine was less muddled, but not quite the mouthfeel they get. I used 16oz just in the DH. I also used hops in the boil and WP.

Maybe I wouldn’t of lost much if I used less hops. But personally, when I consider the amount of time spent on one batch from grain to glass, I’m not gonna nickel and dime my beer to save a few bucks. That’s just my mindset, obviously everyone approaches these things differently.

 

[HopsAreGood]

I don’t. I think most of the breweries pushing out high end hoppy beers are adding ALOT of hops. If you look at Other Half’s All Together recipe they use 10oz of DHs (pellets). Their DDH version of this beer is closer to what they typically push out.

I just kicked the keg of my most recent IPA. It tasted very similar to what Fidens is pushing out. I liked mine a little more - mine was less muddled, but not quite the mouthfeel they get. I used 16oz just in the DH. I also used hops in the boil and WP.

Maybe I wouldn’t of lost much if I used less hops. But personally, when I consider the amount of time spent on one batch from grain to glass, I’m not gonna nickel and dime my beer to save a few bucks. That’s just my mindset, obviously everyone approaches these things differently.

The recipe that Verdant released for Even Sharks Need Water has about 3 oz. whirlpool and 11 oz. dry hop for a 6.5% beer. Kane dry hops their triples at about 8 lb/bbl or 20 oz./5 gallons. People are using A LOT of hops. I had a Hoof Hearted last night that claimed to be hopped with 10 lb/bbl...not all DH but still lots of hops. Tasted great.

One of my favorite beers I’ve ever made had a DH of 8oz.Citra and 8oz. Strata.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/post-8892837
I will say you run the risk of having a much harsher beer, and even one that just tastes like “hops” but you definitely can push the limit and still have good success.

Certainly Dry hopping with lower amounts can make incredibly hoppy delicious beer, which I have also done many times.

 

[aaronm13]

I tried my 2 week old CItra, Mosaic, Bru-1 again last night and to be honest I couldn't pick out a single unique hop flavor, now for a beer to have that much citra and not pick it out, something is up. Maybe I'm rushing things, maybe it just needs longer, I really don't know anymore.

I did that Even sharks recipe exactly as Verdant listed and in a side by side with the real thing it tasted totally underhopped. Now I know we wont get the same utilization of hops as a brewery like Verdant but mine was so muted flavor wise. This had Citra lupomax and T90 and 2020 Galaxy from Yakima. Now I did have an issue with the Galaxy as I posted here, it smelled of pure broccoli so maybe this accounted for the lack of flavor. I think I'm going to try a 10oz max dry hop and if I don't like it I can always add more to the keg.

 

[kingmatt]

Poured a sample of my latest NEIPA the other day using Vic Secret, Lupomax Sabro and Galaxy.

Overall I am loving the aroma and the flavor is on point but it has a fair amount of the dreaded hop burn.

I feel like I get at least some hop burn whenever I use Galaxy in particular. It will fade out with some time but it is frustrating and has led me to avoid using Galaxy for awhile...guess I will go back to avoiding it.

 

[Adam Zerwick]

Your dryhop uses 2-4 more oz than I use in my entire beer. Only my triples will I use a lb of hops in total. You’re dryhoping with what’s equivalent to 6.5 lbs/bbl of t90 pellets that are Homebrew quality. In my eyes that is a lot, I know a lot of breweries will claim this, but many of them have access to far better hops than us. They also use this number as marketing it’s not actually 7 lb/bbl of t90 pellets going in. OH for example counts their advanced hop product amounts in this figure. For example they will claim they dryhopped with “equivalent” of 7 lb/bbl and which in reality could be 3lb/bbl of cryo and 1lb/bbl. I’ve included a picture from their website so you know what I mean and this time they say 15lb/bbl


I know their are many ppl in the thread may do this. I’m not saying it’s wrong, but I would certainly implore you to try to reduce you hopping totals to about 2.5-3.0 oz/gallon in total and 1.2 - 2 oz/gallon. I’d also suggest cutting your dryhop to 1 or 2 addition (I still use 2). If you are following the best practices and process outlined in this thread for dryhoping and anti-o2, I think you will see much brighter and truer varietal specific character in your beers with a reduced hop amount

Wondering where your 2 dry hop additions fall within your typical fermentation schedule and how much time in between them. Are both post-ferm? Also wondering if you could share your rationale for having 2 dry hop additions.

Is the consensus here for whirlpool and dry hopping rates in terms of beer into the serving keg? i.e. 5 gallon keg, 3oz/gallon = 15 oz?

 

[Dgallo]

Wondering where your 2 dry hop additions fall within your typical fermentation schedule and how much time in between them. Are both post-ferm? Also wondering if you could share your rationale for having 2 dry hop additions.

Is the consensus here for whirlpool and dry hopping rates in terms of beer into the serving keg? i.e. 5 gallon keg, 3oz/gallon = 15 oz?

I dryhop all post ferm and after crashing out as much yeast as possible. First goes in 4 or 3 days before final crash and the second goes 36-48 before final crash.
The rationale behind it is surface area contact. When I would put them all in at once for two days or more half the hops would be above the beer not making contact with in. By splitting it into 2 additions, the first addition will be in complete contact and then it will drop naturally or by lightly rocking before the second addition is added. Then that too will be in complete contact.

That said, recently with using cooler dryhop temps this hasn’t been a much a problem since the hops have been sinking faster but I’ve still done two additions. I will be doing one later this month that I will do just one large addition to see if there is truly any difference with the cooler temps

only worry about dryhop oz per gallon figures. For whirlpool I’ll just use about 4 oz

Dryhoping rates I base it off the 5.5 gallons I have in the fermenter when I am actually hopping

 

[ChiknNutz]

...only only worry about dryhop oz per gallon figures. For whirlpool I’ll just use about 4 oz

Dryhoping rates I base it off the 5.5 gallons I have in the fermenter when I am actually hopping

I am building a new (borderline double) NEIPA recipe and am so far planning for this hop schedule:

Magnum - 1 oz - FW
Warrior - 1 oz - FW (or just use all Magnum)
Combined these provide about 70 IBUs
Citra - 4 oz - Whirlpool (was first planning for 6 oz. until you mentioned the above)
Amarillo/Mosaic/Galaxy - 4/2/1 - Single Dryhop

What are your thoughts on this?

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Poured a sample of my latest NEIPA the other day using Vic Secret, Lupomax Sabro and Galaxy. View attachment 715342

Overall I am loving the aroma and the flavor is on point but it has a fair amount of the dreaded hop burn.

I feel like I get at least some hop burn whenever I use Galaxy in particular. It will fade out with some time but it is frustrating and has led me to avoid using Galaxy for awhile...guess I will go back to avoiding it.

Galaxy can be tough to work with. I often get a decent amount of hop burn using it when I go really high in the dry hop. I've tasted plenty of commercial examples with significant hop burn as well so they struggle with it too, even the big boys. I got a drop from Other Half last summer and had their DDH Space Diamonds in it which was hop burn city and barely drinkable for me.

 

[kingmatt]

Galaxy can be tough to work with. I often get a decent amount of hop burn using it when I go really high in the dry hop. I've tasted plenty of commercial examples with significant hop burn as well so they struggle with it too, even the big boys. I got a drop from Other Half last summer and had their DDH Space Diamonds in it which was hop burn city and barely drinkable for me.

I debated using it In this beer but I took all the precautions I could think of to avoid the burn and still couldn't shake it. I am planning on entering this beer into a competition next month so hopefully it mellows out before then.

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

Funny the Galaxy monster is being brought up because I just tapped a DIPA with a 6oz 2020 Galaxy dryhop and I am underwhelmed to say the least. I dryhopped with Galaxy and a half oz of cryo Columbus and I get a cedar plank/anise taste that you sometimes get from CTZ. So in what is essentially a 6:1 dryhop I got no Galaxy taste. No hop burn but no taste either. FWIW the beer was decent before dryhopping and now I might have to break out some Citra for a rescue mission.

 

[Dgallo]

I am building a new (borderline double) NEIPA recipe and am so far planning for this hop schedule:

Magnum - 1 oz - FW
Warrior - 1 oz - FW (or just use all Magnum)
Combined these provide about 70 IBUs
Citra - 4 oz - Whirlpool (was first planning for 6 oz. until you mentioned the above)
Amarillo/Mosaic/Galaxy - 4/2/1 - Single Dryhop

What are your thoughts on this?

For my personal preference I wouldnt target any more than 30 ibus from my 60 minute addition for a NEIPA. So probably .5-.75 oz at 60 would be my call and magnum.

If you have good Amarillo that could be a nice combo. I would add another oz of Galaxy and maybe drop the Amarillo by an oz. but again that’s just my preference

 

[ChiknNutz]

For my personal preference I wouldnt target any more than 30 ibus from my 60 minute addition for a NEIPA. So probably .5-.75 oz at 60 would be my call and magnum.

If you have good Amarillo that could be a nice combo. I would add another oz of Galaxy and maybe drop the Amarillo by an oz. but again that’s just my preference

Thanks for the feedback. I based those dryhop amounts on your post earlier last year.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/page-298#post-8880327

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks for the feedback. I based those dryhop amounts on your post earlier last year.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/page-298#post-8880327

Gotcha! If I recall correctly, I was speaking on total hopbill there, not just specifically the dryhop. For your specific usage, Galaxy will only make up 8% of the total hopbill. I think you’d need to get it to about 15% to be able to pick up it’s character in a supportive role

 

[ChiknNutz]

Thank you for the input, it is appreciated! What do you think of this revised hop schedule (added some citra at the end of the boil)? My 5.75G recipe has a predicted ABV of 7.8% std / 8.4% alt.

Magnum - .75 oz - 60 min
Citra - 1 oz - 10 min
---Combined these provide about 35 IBUs---
Citra - 4 oz - Whirlpool
Amarillo/Mosaic/Galaxy - 3/2/2 - Single Dryhop

 

[Dgallo]

Thank you for the input, it is appreciated! What do you think of this revised hop schedule (added some citra at the end of the boil)? My 5.75G recipe has a predicted ABV of 7.8% std / 8.4% alt.

Magnum - .75 oz - 60 min
Citra - 1 oz - 10 min
---Combined these provide about 35 IBUs---
Citra - 4 oz - Whirlpool
Amarillo/Mosaic/Galaxy - 3/2/2 - Single Dryhop

Looks good to me for a hop schedule. Keep o2 to the absolute minimum and you’ll have a solid beer. From there you’ll be able to make any adjustments you deem fit

 

[ihavenonickname]

I’m wondering if i should switch to EVAbarrier tubing for keg transfers as well.

Funny thing is that I have a bunch of EVABarrier lying around but no more fittings to get to the QD's. Just need to stop being cheap and grab some. With vinyl my beer would get noticeably oxidized in the lines after 2 days. It takes 10 days to even start changing with EVA. Probably waaay overkill but its all so easy so why not?

So silicone tubing is oxygen permeable... When doing a closed transfer from keg to keg (neipa) would using EVAbarrier tubing be beneficial for reducing g oxidation?

 

[Dgallo]

I’m wondering if i should switch to EVAbarrier tubing for keg transfers as well.

So silicone tubing is oxygen permeable... When doing a closed transfer from keg to keg (neipa) would using EVAbarrier tubing be beneficial for reducing g oxidation?

It’s never not beneficial but as long as you’re purging your vinyl lines prior to transferring, I personally can’t imagine o2 being an issue in that 10-20 minutes. Especially with flow

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I’m wondering if i should switch to EVAbarrier tubing for keg transfers as well.

So silicone tubing is oxygen permeable... When doing a closed transfer from keg to keg (neipa) would using EVAbarrier tubing be beneficial for reducing g oxidation?

I'm super anal about O2 but this doesn't really concern me. The issue with O2 permeating through tubing I think is pretty slow so is more of an issue with the lines in the keezer as the keg sits there for days/weeks/months.

However, EVABarrier and duotight fightings are so easy to use and affordable it's just one more reason to switch your tubing over to it(for liquid/gas lines as well as jumpers).

 

[ChiknNutz]

Looks good to me for a hop schedule. Keep o2 to the absolute minimum and you’ll have a solid beer. From there you’ll be able to make any adjustments you deem fit

Brewed on Saturday, but I forgot to add the Citra for the last 10 minutes of the boil. I did end up boiling longer due to collecting too much wort and my pre-boil OG was 4-6 points low. I more than made up for it with a post-boil OG of 1.09 which is 8 points higher than expected. I attribute some of this to having just bought a new kettle so am dialing in the boil-off rate and actual volume as I think the inner marks may not be totally accurate. Excited to see how this one turns out nonetheless.

 

[nebulabrewing]

Had a successful brew day this weekend. First beer of 2021 with Bru-1, Azacca, and Sabro. Whirlpool had a lovely aroma. Slight deviation to my usual go-to grain bill. Mashed at 152.


69% Golden Promise
17% White wheat
12% Flaked oats
2% Acid malt

Hops
Bru-1
Azacca
Sabro

Yeast
3rd generation 1L LAiii starter - My most active fermentation to date with this yeast. Yeast all over the garage floor haha.

Water
126, 13, 16, 125, 193, 0

Excited for this hop combination.

Pulled a sample last night to get a SG reading. Aroma is pineapple and slightly tropical. My first DH was 2oz Azacca, 2oz Bru-1, and 1oz Sabro. Been in the fermentor for nine days now. Gonna keg it later this week!

 

[NJGeorge]

I grew up and lived about 40 miles from them until about 2 years ago when I moved up to Albany. All I’ve ever heard is they are using a blend. They are huge on true brewing science and repeatability (both owners are MIT grads) as evident in their beer names lol but yea, they are open about most ingredients but very closed off on process. I’ve tried to harvest yeast from some doubles but no luck it getting a healthy repitch. I actually have a 4 pack of one of their pale ales sitting in the back of my beer fridge trying to get them as cold as possible so I can try to harvest from a low abv beer and send it out to a MTF member who can ruin genomes to find out what they are using.

Did you wind up harvesting the yeast and send it out? I've made a few starters from their cans and I've gotten intense banana hefe like character.

 

[R.A.I.D]

Hey guys just wanted to share a brewery with you guys that you really need to check out if you get the Opportunity. Fiden’s Brewing Co in Albany NY. They are absolutely blowing up locally and will sell out of 4bbl in 32 oz crowlers typically in 5 hours. No joke they are going to become top 5 in the nation it’s that good. Sam from other half visited and was so impressed he took kegs with him to put on as guest taps because he wanted to help them get their name out. (That says something). Here is their Necessary Means with Galaxy- Citra/mosaic hotside and Galaxy in the dryhop with a touch of Citra. No joke, probably top 10 beers I’ve had. View attachment 684634

Inspirered by this post I did a

WP: Mosaic, Citra 1:1
DH: Galaxy, Citra 5:1

Not impressed by the beer before the dry hop. And the Galaxy smelled like raw onion and gasoline, so I ordered new from another lhbs. Same smell. Last year Galaxy smelled serious delicious of citrus, grapefruit and mandarin. But not this time.

The neipa is the worst I have brewed in a long time. Pure diesel taste.

I also had some Vic Secret. Kind of same smell. I don't know how it is supposed to smell. But I don't want to end up with something like this again.

I used my well tested recipe and process (except I also tried Lallemand New England yeast).

It all comes down to the quality of the hops. Buying hops is like a lottery.