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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Sample pour from my latest attempt and I’m really liking this one. For this one I added zero hot side hops making it a 100% dry hopped beer.

70% 2-row
20% white wheat
10% malted oats
7.5% abv

4 oz Apollo (added at the same time as pitching the yeast) which was a 1L starter of the new omega sundew.

Soft crashed to 60 for 12 hours then dry hopped directly in the fermenter with:

4 oz Vic Secret
4 oz Nelson
2 oz Citra Cryo

Held the temp at 60 for 48 hours then transferred into a purged keg with a nylon bag suspended containing:

4 oz Mosaic Lupomax

The keg has been in the chest freezer at 48 degrees for 48 hours and I’m going to leave it there for the duration.

So far it’s extremely dank and fruity. There’s zero bitterness but it’s not cloying and I have to say it’s probably one of the most aromatic and flavorful beers I’ve ever made.
 
my hops always sink when added at 50F. Just an added benefit. It’s ready to rack right away. The hops sink and the beer turns very cloudy with hoppy goodness. I am going to try racking to a dryhop keg next and invert it a few times per day to see if it extracts any more.
how Is that a benefit? Don’t we want he hops to float and break up thereby coming into contact with more beer and releas8ng more oils. If they sink and stay in pellet form doesn’t seem like were getting all the good extraction out of them.
 
how Is that a benefit? Don’t we want he hops to float and break up thereby coming into contact with more beer and releas8ng more oils. If they sink and stay in pellet form doesn’t seem like were getting all the good extraction out of them.
They break up at the bottom of your fermenter, just as they would on top. For those who have the ability to removed the trub and yeast prior, you can rouse them with co2 or a gentle rocking. The problem is most homebrewers can’t dump their trub(myself included) so you really need to find the coldest temperature that will keep them in suspension for you. For me it’s about 57/58.

Last brew I went a little colder and ran 4 oz of the dryhop through a coffee gribder, very quick/roughly to see if it would help def seemed to help a little. I was worried it might add to cause some oxidation but I haven’t detected any. Next dryhop I’m going to try to do that to about 60% of the dryhop
 
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how Is that a benefit? Don’t we want he hops to float and break up thereby coming into contact with more beer and releas8ng more oils. If they sink and stay in pellet form doesn’t seem like were getting all the good extraction out of them.
I personally don't worry too much if they initially sink to the bottom as they always appear to break up for me. I dry hop at 60 after warming up after soft crash at 50. I had more pellets sinking like rocks when I was taking them straight from the freezer to the fermenter, but I quickly switched to taking the hops out of the freezer to let them warm up to room temp before I dry hop them. This has helped to allow them to breakup quicker. Ideally, I agree with you in that Id prefer to see a nice "carpet" of hops at the top of the liquid level and all submerged in the beer as they gradually fall down in smaller particles. But even with how I am doing it now, sometimes the more dense hops still seem to drop initially. But, at kegging time after Ive kegged, all hops at the bottom have always been broken up which tells me the oils are in solution.
 
@Dgallo on the topic of non brooklyn otherhalf I’ve finally been impressed by a Rochester beer, invisible beams. Funny enough though it’s Nelson, riwaka, Citra.

flavor could have been a little fuller but aroma was killer. Didn’t get the diesel from the riwaka eq had last year but this had it however slight. It was kind of neat.

Digital vibrations from roc was a little hot for a double and double green dots from DC is too. The aroma from dots was actually pretty solid but even hotter than vibrations.

whatever Citra Brooklyn is using is killer though. The Citra showers from a month or two ago was awesome and this current batch of small Citra matches it. I was pretty disappointed with a batch of small Citra in 2020, so surprised how much better this batch is.
 
I personally don't worry too much if they initially sink to the bottom as they always appear to break up for me. I dry hop at 60 after warming up after soft crash at 50. I had more pellets sinking like rocks when I was taking them straight from the freezer to the fermenter, but I quickly switched to taking the hops out of the freezer to let them warm up to room temp before I dry hop them. This has helped to allow them to breakup quicker. Ideally, I agree with you in that Id prefer to see a nice "carpet" of hops at the top of the liquid level and all submerged in the beer as they gradually fall down in smaller particles. But even with how I am doing it now, sometimes the more dense hops still seem to drop initially. But, at kegging time after Ive kegged, all hops at the bottom have always been broken up which tells me the oils are in solution.
These are the experiences I’m looking for. Thanks. how long do u soft crash at 50? In ur experience is it more important as to the time it sits at 50 or that the fermenter is just cooled to shock and drop the yeast Regardless of time it takes to get there. For me it only takes about 2-3hrs in my keezer at 36deg to get from 70 to 50. I see some who obviously have temp control will soft crash at 50 for 48hrs, I don’t have that option at the moment.

I’ve been soft crashing in my keezer to 50 and this time I’m going to let the fermenter rise back to atleast 60 and do like u said, measure out the hops and let them come to room temp Before dropping em in Hopefully they won’t all drop like rocks. I only let this second dh sit for about 36-48hrs before cold crashing For another 48hrs.
 
These are the experiences I’m looking for. Thanks. how long do u soft crash at 50? In ur experience is it more important as to the time it sits at 50 or that the fermenter is just cooled to shock and drop the yeast Regardless of time it takes to get there. For me it only takes about 2-3hrs in my keezer at 36deg to get from 70 to 50. I see some who obviously have temp control will soft crash at 50 for 48hrs, I don’t have that option at the moment.

I’ve been soft crashing in my keezer to 50 and this time I’m going to let the fermenter rise back to atleast 60 and do like u said, measure out the hops and let them come to room temp Before dropping em in Hopefully they won’t all drop like rocks. I only let this second dh sit for about 36-48hrs before cold crashing For another 48hrs.

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https://www.acinfinity.com/componen...wScPGzxNRcp-0HOePjTLbo-IlCOsy3CRoCAH8QAvD_BwE
Temp control for your keezer for $50 bucks
 
I personally don't worry too much if they initially sink to the bottom as they always appear to break up for me. I dry hop at 60 after warming up after soft crash at 50. I had more pellets sinking like rocks when I was taking them straight from the freezer to the fermenter, but I quickly switched to taking the hops out of the freezer to let them warm up to room temp before I dry hop them. This has helped to allow them to breakup quicker. Ideally, I agree with you in that Id prefer to see a nice "carpet" of hops at the top of the liquid level and all submerged in the beer as they gradually fall down in smaller particles. But even with how I am doing it now, sometimes the more dense hops still seem to drop initially. But, at kegging time after Ive kegged, all hops at the bottom have always been broken up which tells me the oils are in solution.

Never thought of warming up the hops a bit, that's a good idea. At this point "noob" is no longer applicable. I'd say you have graduated to at the very least Intermediate_Brewer :)
 
These are the experiences I’m looking for. Thanks. how long do u soft crash at 50? In ur experience is it more important as to the time it sits at 50 or that the fermenter is just cooled to shock and drop the yeast Regardless of time it takes to get there. For me it only takes about 2-3hrs in my keezer at 36deg to get from 70 to 50. I see some who obviously have temp control will soft crash at 50 for 48hrs, I don’t have that option at the moment.

I’ve been soft crashing in my keezer to 50 and this time I’m going to let the fermenter rise back to atleast 60 and do like u said, measure out the hops and let them come to room temp Before dropping em in Hopefully they won’t all drop like rocks. I only let this second dh sit for about 36-48hrs before cold crashing For another 48hrs.

I think the time needed to get the yeast to drop when soft crashing is yeast dependent, but in general I have it at 50 for 36hrs. 36hrs seems, to me, to be a sweet spot for the yeasts I am using. But since I have a fermonster, I can also visually see it clear up nicely during he soft crash too, so thats nice confirmation for me. the 36hrs is also very practical for me. For example, I hit 50 degrees on tuesday at about 7pm with a pale ale. So this morning at about 8am (37hrs @50), I started warming it up to 60 for dry hopping. I use a fermwrap and it works great. I hit 60 at about 12:30pm today I think and I dry hopped at 1pm. Let us know how your second DH goes! Again - I don't think you need to freak out if some drop initially, because they are still in the beer and will break up if your beer temps are in the high 50s-62ish range.
 
Never thought of warming up the hops a bit, that's a good idea. At this point "noob" is no longer applicable. I'd say you have graduated to at the very least Intermediate_Brewer :)
Lol, Im going to just assume that was a compliment :). But yes, I really didn't think through my name on here when I signed up lol. But, technically Im still in my rookie season of home brewing. Jan 11th of last year was my first brew day;). So I will take "intermediate" any day of the week right now. Cheers!
 
Couple things.

I “soft crash” and generally dry hop cold for 90% of the hoppy beers I make. Generally 55-58* although recently I’ve been going even colder. Just kegged one that I dry hopped at 40 for 24 hours before dumping what hops had settled and cooling to 35. Then dumping hops next two days before kegging. The “cold hopped” Tree House beers had me intrigued. I will say the sample before kegging tasted like sh*t bit I’m going to give it time before giving my final judgement. It was a 12g batch so I split into two kegs. One went right into the keezer to carb, other will get Krausened tomorrow with the beer I brewed this evening. Interested to see how they differ.

You can warm hops up and even grind them a bit before adding to beer. I used to do this a bunch but don’t anymore. No real reason. Should try a side by side one of these days.

I can most of the beer I make to give to friends and what not. I will leave a low fill out at room temp every time to see if I get any hop creep once in the can. It’s happened twice so far. Both were with a specific lot of cascade that I think was full of enzymes. Only time it’s happened. Both beers were force tested for diacetyl before kegging and I got nothing but once they sat warm in the can for 3-4 days Diacetyl started to appear. Could have been caused by an infection in my canning gear but I don’t think so.
 
i meant that it is an advantage in terms of racking. I was worried at first that extraction would be bad when they sank but the beer always turns very hazy and hoppy as the pellets sit on the bottom. The oils are dissolving into the beer.

how Is that a benefit? Don’t we want he hops to float and break up thereby coming into contact with more beer and releas8ng more oils. If they sink and stay in pellet form doesn’t seem like were getting all the good extraction out of them.
 
View attachment 713491Sample pour from my latest attempt and I’m really liking this one. For this one I added zero hot side hops making it a 100% dry hopped beer.

70% 2-row
20% white wheat
10% malted oats
7.5% abv

4 oz Apollo (added at the same time as pitching the yeast) which was a 1L starter of the new omega sundew.

Soft crashed to 60 for 12 hours then dry hopped directly in the fermenter with:

4 oz Vic Secret
4 oz Nelson
2 oz Citra Cryo

Held the temp at 60 for 48 hours then transferred into a purged keg with a nylon bag suspended containing:

4 oz Mosaic Lupomax

The keg has been in the chest freezer at 48 degrees for 48 hours and I’m going to leave it there for the duration.

So far it’s extremely dank and fruity. There’s zero bitterness but it’s not cloying and I have to say it’s probably one of the most aromatic and flavorful beers I’ve ever made.
Looks incredible. What was your FG on this one. Must see if I can get that Omega strain.

BTW, managed to pick up some Magnify beers before Christmas. Was very impressed by them, especially the TIPA is got, was so easy to drink.
 
Thanks for posting those but let me clear up my statement. I have a temp controller on my keezer it’s an older unit but that’s what was on it when I bought it off the guy last year however I meant having an independent ferm chamber To use for crashing. Typically I have a keg in the keezer and idk id rather not ”raise” the temp of the drinking keg to 50 so I never considered messing with the temp control. Idk do you think it would harm the beer in the filled keg to raise it to 50 for 36hrs then set it back to serving temp at 36-38 deg? the keg would be pretty cold just from being at serving temp for awhile it may not even change the temp of the keg since they are insulated.
 
Alot of the Richmond breweries use RVA yeast so I would guess there's a good chance Veil is using the Manchester strain. Triple Crossing is another killer Richmond brewery using RVA yeast and while they didn't come out and say it they heavily alluded to using LA3/Manchester in a podcast I listened to a couple years ago. I've thought about getting some RVA yeast for fun(I also read Janish's write-up) but never did it. If you try it report back

Yeah, the description of Manchester seems to match the ester profile I can detect in the <7% ABV beers I picked up from the Veil. I'm familiar with Triple Crossing too, killer IPAs but also fantastic a Pils & Helles on tap recently. I haven't detected a hint of the ester profile yet in TC, perhaps lower fermentation temps. Which podcast was it?

I picked up a vial of Manchester & the Conan variant from Original Gravity. Then went next door to Final Gravity for a couple pints. I picked up the same vanilla/marmalade? esters in their flagship IPA. In case you're not familiar with OG/FG, the brew shop carries RVA labs yeast and the small brewery next door is on par with the larger operations in the city. Man, I miss living in RVA.
 
Looks incredible. What was your FG on this one. Must see if I can get that Omega strain.

BTW, managed to pick up some Magnify beers before Christmas. Was very impressed by them, especially the TIPA is got, was so easy to drink.
FG was 1.010 which is a little low for some people but I don’t mind. 1.010-1.012 seems more drinkable to me than 1.016-1.018 but either way isn’t really a huge deal. I ran the sundew at 70 and let it free rise to 74 and it was completely done in 72 hours.

It’s funny because I feel like every time I post a picture of a beer it’s always in that magnify glass. Not sure why...I am in New Jersey and people have mixed feelings about them, but I’ve always been a fan. One of the knocks on them is that while almost all of their beers are “Good” very few of them are amazing. Their triple series is however really really good. If you did not see the 10.5% on the can, you’d have no idea that it was that strong.
 
View attachment 713491Sample pour from my latest attempt and I’m really liking this one. For this one I added zero hot side hops making it a 100% dry hopped beer.

70% 2-row
20% white wheat
10% malted oats
7.5% abv

4 oz Apollo (added at the same time as pitching the yeast) which was a 1L starter of the new omega sundew.

Soft crashed to 60 for 12 hours then dry hopped directly in the fermenter with:

4 oz Vic Secret
4 oz Nelson
2 oz Citra Cryo

Held the temp at 60 for 48 hours then transferred into a purged keg with a nylon bag suspended containing:

4 oz Mosaic Lupomax

The keg has been in the chest freezer at 48 degrees for 48 hours and I’m going to leave it there for the duration.

So far it’s extremely dank and fruity. There’s zero bitterness but it’s not cloying and I have to say it’s probably one of the most aromatic and flavorful beers I’ve ever made.

very intrigued. Say, that's a heck of a hopping rate, what was the OG on this one?
 
very intrigued. Say, that's a heck of a hopping rate, what was the OG on this one?
Haha, I know. It’s a lot of hops..essentially 8 lb/bl all dry hop. 1.068-1.010.

Next time I’m going to skip the active fermentation dry hop and the dry hop in the fermenter, and I’m going to hang 20 ounces of hops in a large nylon bag in the keg. I’m going to purge that keg with the fermentation CO2, and then transfer the unhopped beer Into that keg and dry hop for about four days. I’m then going to jump that into a liquid purged serving keg. We’ll see how it goes.
 
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FG was 1.010 which is a little low for some people but I don’t mind. 1.010-1.012 seems more drinkable to me than 1.016-1.018 but either way isn’t really a huge deal. I ran the sundew at 70 and let it free rise to 74 and it was completely done in 72 hours.

It’s funny because I feel like every time I post a picture of a beer it’s always in that magnify glass. Not sure why...I am in New Jersey and people have mixed feelings about them, but I’ve always been a fan. One of the knocks on them is that while almost all of their beers are “Good” very few of them are amazing. Their triple series is however really really good. If you did not see the 10.5% on the can, you’d have no idea that it was that strong.
That's interesting about the FG. I usually aim for around 1.018-20 myself but the beer I have dry hopping at the moment was sitting at 1.011 when I transferred to the dry hop keg. Worried it might be a bit thin on the body. Used London Fog and this is usually so predicable at this stage, I use it so much. I did mash at 149 this time when I usually mash at 152. Don't think that would make a massive difference to the FG. Added hops during fermentation this time, at 48 hours so guess I got a bit of hop creep.

The Magnify triple was a lot better than the doubles. Very dangerous as they hid their alcohol a bit too well.
 
Yeah, the description of Manchester seems to match the ester profile I can detect in the <7% ABV beers I picked up from the Veil. I'm familiar with Triple Crossing too, killer IPAs but also fantastic a Pils & Helles on tap recently. I haven't detected a hint of the ester profile yet in TC, perhaps lower fermentation temps. Which podcast was it?

I picked up a vial of Manchester & the Conan variant from Original Gravity. Then went next door to Final Gravity for a couple pints. I picked up the same vanilla/marmalade? esters in their flagship IPA. In case you're not familiar with OG/FG, the brew shop carries RVA labs yeast and the small brewery next door is on par with the larger operations in the city. Man, I miss living in RVA.
I've been to Final Gravity when I was down there and their stuff was phenomenal. I really wanted to grab some stuff at their Original Gravity shop next door but just didn't have anywhere to keep it while traveling. I'd be there alot buying supplies if I lived there.

I went back and checked my notes and the podcast was Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine-November 2018. It was a long time ago but I seem to recall the host asking them about their yeast and they were being a little coy and wouldn't say which but said it was a really popular/obvious english hazy strain. I guess it could be Conan too. It was a good podcast and they actually were pretty forthcoming about their processes/recipes.
 
I am going for Bru-1/citra/galaxy from YVH cyber pack very soon. I think I can't go wrong with that trio. I never used Bru-1 Thinking 40%/40%/20% galaxy

So I did this beer and it's kegged since 5 days.

Peachy/mango/pineapple dominant trio on aroma and flavor. I can't taste the Bru-1 alone but certainly contribute to enhance the pineapple flavor. Great trio if your all in for 100% fruits.

Fresh 2020 crop YCH bags certainly helped a lot.

6 Gal in fermenter

Malts (14 lb 8 oz)

5 lb (32.3%) — Gambrinus Pale Malt 2-Row — Grain — 2 °L
5 lb (32.3%) — Pilsner 2-Row — Grain — 2 °L
2 lb (12.9%) — Briess Oats, Flaked — Grain — 1.6 °L
2 lb (12.9%) — Gambrinus Wheat Malt — Grain — 2.3 °L
8 oz (3.2%) — Cargill (Gambrinus) Honey Malt — Grain — 19 °L

Hops (12.25 oz)
0.6 oz (26 IBU) — BRU-1 14% — First Wort
0.5 oz (8 IBU) — Citra 12% — Boil — 10 min
0.5 oz
(6 IBU) — Citra 12% — Boil — 5 min
0.65 oz
(5 IBU) — BRU-1 14% — Boil — 0 min
2 oz
(16 IBU) — BRU-1 14% — Aroma — 30 min hopstand @ 180 °F
2 oz
(14 IBU) — Citra 12% — Aroma — 30 min hopstand @ 180 °F
1 oz
(8 IBU) — Galaxy 14% — Aroma — 30 min hopstand @ 180 °F
1 oz
— BRU-1 14% — Dry Hop — 5 days
1 oz
— Citra 12% — Dry Hop — 5 days
0.5 oz
— Galaxy 14% — Dry Hop — 5 days
1 oz
— BRU-1 14% — Dry Hop — 3 days
1 oz
— Citra 12% — Dry Hop — 3 days
0.5 oz
— Galaxy 14% — Dry Hop — 3 days

Hopstand at 180-160 °F
Foggy London Ale Gen 6

Original Gravity: 1.065
Final Gravity: 1.017

Can't wait to retry bru-1 with sabro and Idaho 7 next week.
 
Haha, I know. It’s a lot of hops..essentially 8 lb/bl all dry hop. 1.068-1.010.

Next time I’m going to skip the active fermentation dry hop and the dry hop in the fermenter, and I’m going to hang 20 ounces of hops in a large nylon bag in the keg. I’m going to purge that keg with the fermentation CO2, and then transfer the unhopped beer Into that keg and dry hop for about four days. I’m then going to jump that into a liquid purged serving keg. We’ll see how it goes.
If you end up doing this please follow up in this thread with your results and impressions.
 
I'm having a come to Jesus moment on fresh hops after a lackluster beer made using 2018 citra and 2019 galaxy. both were freshly opened vac-sealed bags and they were underwhelming. I'm going to start ordering smaller amounts of smaller bags of hops for dry hops instead of 1lb bags. I was wondering if it is worth getting cryo hops. I had heard a brewer on a podcast say that he is rarely disappointed with cryo hops in terms of flavor/quality. Made me start thinking that it might be worth it to just buy all cryo so i can be assured of getting a consistently good product. Definitely going to start using only fresh bags for dry hops and only from the most recent hop year! the rest go into the hop stand!
 
I'm having a come to Jesus moment on fresh hops after a lackluster beer made using 2018 citra and 2019 galaxy. both were freshly opened vac-sealed bags and they were underwhelming. I'm going to start ordering smaller amounts of smaller bags of hops for dry hops instead of 1lb bags. I was wondering if it is worth getting cryo hops. I had heard a brewer on a podcast say that he is rarely disappointed with cryo hops in terms of flavor/quality. Made me start thinking that it might be worth it to just buy all cryo so i can be assured of getting a consistently good product. Definitely going to start using only fresh bags for dry hops and only from the most recent hop year! the rest go into the hop stand!
It's a pretty big deal, trying to use the freshest possible hops especially in the dry hop. I've heard lots of brewers talk about that in podcasts. I've been buying mostly 2 oz quantities from YVH for the last couple years unless there's a pounder on flash sale or something(like citra right now). I like cutting some of my dry hop with some cryo when I can.
 
Yeah saw the citra pounders on sale and had to hold myself back lol

It's a pretty big deal, trying to use the freshest possible hops especially in the dry hop. I've heard lots of brewers talk about that in podcasts. I've been buying mostly 2 oz quantities from YVH for the last couple years unless there's a pounder on flash sale or something(like citra right now). I like cutting some of my dry hop with some cryo when I can.
 
I'm having a come to Jesus moment on fresh hops after a lackluster beer made using 2018 citra and 2019 galaxy. both were freshly opened vac-sealed bags and they were underwhelming. I'm going to start ordering smaller amounts of smaller bags of hops for dry hops instead of 1lb bags. I was wondering if it is worth getting cryo hops. I had heard a brewer on a podcast say that he is rarely disappointed with cryo hops in terms of flavor/quality. Made me start thinking that it might be worth it to just buy all cryo so i can be assured of getting a consistently good product. Definitely going to start using only fresh bags for dry hops and only from the most recent hop year! the rest go into the hop stand!
Assuming all of the best practices that are constantly discussed in this thread are followed, the number one factor in terms of how good the finished product comes out is the quality of the hops. I’ve been a part of this thread for a while now, as have many of the other posters, and the processes and techniques that have been discussed at great lengths are at minimum on par with many professional breweries. In many instances I’d say they are even better.

I’ve made somewhere between 75-100 batches of super hoppy NE style ipas, and have had some batches that I would honestly say were better than 99% of the best commercial examples available.

The more I’ve thought about it, the more I’ve come to understand that IF all of the best practices regarding our processes and techniques are followed, the only other variable is the quality of the hops. It’s a HUGE factor if you’re chasing that dragon that you can’t quite seem to get.

As @VirginiaHops1 said above, the single most common thing I hear when listening to countless podcasts with highly respected brewers of this style of beer is the quality of the hops. They talk about the selection process, variance from lot to lot, farm to farm, year to year, etc..I’ve even heard some of them talking about the specific temperature at which they store them.

I’ve recently been looking into sourcing hops outside of the typical LHBS, Yakima valley hops, farmhouse, moorbeer, northern brewer, etc....The problem is that it’s nearly impossible to get the same quality of hops that pro brewers get as a home brewer.

I will say that I’ve had some great success using Lupomax and cryo hops, and I’m really trying to get my hands on some incognito but that’s proved to be very difficult in the US. The European sites that carry it in homebrew quantities won’t ship here.

So anyway, I’d agree one thousand percent that the quality of the hops we can get and use, is paramount to how good our final product turns out.

You can be a phenomenal chef but if your ingredients are mediocre, your food will also be mediocre.
 
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I will say that I’ve had some great success using Lupomax and cryo hops, and I’m really trying to get my hands on some incognito but that’s proved to be very difficult in the US. The European sites that carry it in homebrew quantities won’t ship here.

YVH is carrying Incognito but currently on in 2kg jugs and it's expensive at $475 to $510, depending on which hop.
 
YVH is carrying Incognito but currently on in 2kg jugs and it's expensive at $475 to $510, depending on which hop.
I know...there are a few homebrew sites based in Europe that have it broken down into smaller sizes, but they won’t ship to the US. I’m not sure why no one in the US has taken this approach and broken it down, but as far as I can tell no one has. I’d love to do a beer with incognito, cryo, and Lupomax, but getting the incognito seems impossible at this point.
 
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