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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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lol I thought the same when I read that line saying to myself “so you're underpitching and hit temp targets”
 
I dont remember the name - it was the beer Nate brewed for his wedding (Curiosity series?). It was by far the best TH beer I have ever had. If they rebrew that beer again, I strongly reccommend folks sure seek it out. Sadly my supplier moved a while back, havent had any TH in over a year...
 
lol I thought the same when I read that line saying to myself “so you're underpitching and hit temp targets”
Didnt the tree house yeast toptic found some results on temperature schedule by photos?
I seem to recall people playing with driving the temps up and down.

Personally I would guess they do the "british" way te encourage esters. Pitch at higher them and cool then let it free rise again.
 
Question for the A24 yeast blend users
@Dgallo and others.

I made a 1 liter starter of wlp644 and a vermont strain. When crashing both starters to decant I noticed even after 24h of crashing at 1c the wlp644 was still very hazy. Especially dense haze near the bottom. I mixed them and pitched them in my beer.

Wondering if anyone can comment on the flocculation of this blend.
 
Didnt the tree house yeast toptic found some results on temperature schedule by photos?
I seem to recall people playing with driving the temps up and down.

Personally I would guess they do the "british" way te encourage esters. Pitch at higher them and cool then let it free rise again.
The flat out science is that esters are created mainly during the growth phase. To place more stress during growth or to make the growth phase take longer are what does it. I’m sure they are using a combination of both methods.
 
Question for the A24 yeast blend users
@Dgallo and others.

I made a 1 liter starter of wlp644 and a vermont strain. When crashing both starters to decant I noticed even after 24h of crashing at 1c the wlp644 was still very hazy. Especially dense haze near the bottom. I mixed them and pitched them in my beer.

Wondering if anyone can comment on the flocculation of this blend.
I know it’s equivalent A20 is a low floc strain. The A04 barbarian has a high Floccuation ability and A24 is pretty much in the middle. So you technically shouldn’t have decanted the starter of the two yeast because the blend much higher in the connan strain since it flocs better
 
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I know it’s equivalent A20 is a low floc strain. The A04 barbarian has a high Floccuation ability and A24 is pretty much in the middle. So you technically shouldn’t have decanted the starter of the two yeast because the blend much higher in the connan strain since it flocs better
Good point, lets see how this turns out. I got the same beer fermenting with vermont only to compare.
I didnt decant as much, tried to keep as much yeast as I could from 644.

Could you comment on the flocculation of a24? Do you softcrash? If so how low and long and does it clear up properly?
 
Good point, lets see how this turns out. I got the same beer fermenting with vermont only to compare.
I didnt decant as much, tried to keep as much yeast as I could from 644.

Could you comment on the flocculation of a24? Do you softcrash? If so how low and long and does it clear up properly?
I soft crash for 36hrs and that seems to do the trick but there’s no reason you couldn’t go longer. The later generations seem to flock better so I’m guessing the a04 becomes dominate after g3 so I usual just don’t run it very long and just use a fresh pack. I’ve never done a side by side so I’m interested to see how the ester profiles comepare so def post the results of that
 
I soft crash for 36hrs and that seems to do the trick but there’s no reason you couldn’t go longer. The later generations seem to flock better so I’m guessing the a04 becomes dominate after g3 so I usual just don’t run it very long and just use a fresh pack. I’ve never done a side by side so I’m interested to see how the ester profiles comepare so def post the results of that


Just to add here when I asked imperial about generation drift in a24 they said not to decant, just like you mentioned. As long as you overbuild your starter (as compared to harvesting) the balance should stay pretty much 50/50. They did mention there might be some drift but it shouldn’t be that big of a deal.

I’ve got my first use of a24 going into a fruited blonde with Citra today (beach beer in a couple weeks). 1l Starter spun up Wednesday, shooting for .5 pitch rate. Didn’t get a lot of Krause but there’s plenty of yeast in the starter, it’s crazy hazy.

I went back in your post history dgallo and you mentioned pitching at 68, free rise to 72 then push to 74 over the first few days? You still do something similar?
 
Just to add here when I asked imperial about generation drift in a24 they said not to decant, just like you mentioned. As long as you overbuild your starter (as compared to harvesting) the balance should stay pretty much 50/50. They did mention there might be some drift but it shouldn’t be that big of a deal.

I’ve got my first use of a24 going into a fruited blonde with Citra today (beach beer in a couple weeks). 1l Starter spun up Wednesday, shooting for .5 pitch rate. Didn’t get a lot of Krause but there’s plenty of yeast in the starter, it’s crazy hazy.

I went back in your post history dgallo and you mentioned pitching at 68, free rise to 72 then push to 74 over the first few days? You still do something similar?
Yes sir, that’s how I run a24. You can even push it 75/76 but if it get above that the a04 in the blend throws some fusel
 
Could you share some more on that chamber?
What kind of device are you building?

Just got it done. I had to build a sliding shelf in the fridge so I could pull the fermenter out to attach the hop chamber. The three way valve is so I can attach a vacuum pump and CO2 at the same time and alternate rapidly back and forth between vacuum and CO2 by turning the lever.

4rQyM6V.jpg


xc189SA.jpg


PtLcvwh.jpg
 
Just got it done. I had to build a sliding shelf in the fridge so I could pull the fermenter out to attach the hop chamber. The three way valve is so I can attach a vacuum pump and CO2 at the same time and alternate rapidly back and forth between vacuum and CO2 by turning the lever.

4rQyM6V.jpg


xc189SA.jpg


PtLcvwh.jpg

Sweet tortilla Jesus that looks so rad, where did your source all pieces specially the chamber?
 
Sweet tortilla Jesus that looks so rad, where did your source all pieces specially the chamber?

Thank you! The chamber is all standard tri-clamp stuff. The only thing I did was tap female npt threads into the end cap. All the other fittings are stainless npt stuff. The vacuum port fitting (the white thing) I made out of a nylon npt barb. The most time consuming part was making the sliding shelf in the fridge!
 
That kinda goes way back to the og tired hands milkshakes, where (rumor or not) they would add green apples to the boil for their high pectin content. That was only for the milkshakes tho, and they clearly had plenty of haze in their other ipas without the added pectin

No rumor. Jean said in an interview that they use green apple. He also stated at one point that they would used high pectin fruits for shakes. I wonder if they also added green apple to those. I tried green apple in one of my shakes and it did add a certain "shakiness". If you know his shakes, you know what that means. It's not necessary for haze, though. I'm not sure if he's still adding it to the shakes. It doesn't taste like it. I'm not convinced the pectin adds a perma haze.
 
Just got it done. I had to build a sliding shelf in the fridge so I could pull the fermenter out to attach the hop chamber. The three way valve is so I can attach a vacuum pump and CO2 at the same time and alternate rapidly back and forth between vacuum and CO2 by turning the lever.

4rQyM6V.jpg


xc189SA.jpg


PtLcvwh.jpg


You sir are a genius - I am not ashamed to say that I am a little bit envious of your set up...
 
Just got it done. I had to build a sliding shelf in the fridge so I could pull the fermenter out to attach the hop chamber. The three way valve is so I can attach a vacuum pump and CO2 at the same time and alternate rapidly back and forth between vacuum and CO2 by turning the lever.

4rQyM6V.jpg


xc189SA.jpg


PtLcvwh.jpg
Love it! So you can remove this thing from the top without introducing o2 and then attach something with a blowoff?
 
Just got it done. I had to build a sliding shelf in the fridge so I could pull the fermenter out to attach the hop chamber. The three way valve is so I can attach a vacuum pump and CO2 at the same time and alternate rapidly back and forth between vacuum and CO2 by turning the lever.

4rQyM6V.jpg


xc189SA.jpg


PtLcvwh.jpg
And I was proud of my self forthe closed transfer fermonster lid....... lol

Awesome job brother.
 
2". I wouldn't say I'm worried, but it is a potential problem. If it gets jammed, I'll go up to 3" or 4".
 
For those using Fermonsters with floating dip tubes, what exactly is your process with hoppy beers?

The last two batches I've had issues trying to pull beer out through the dip tube. No matter how much I crash there is still some hop debris on the surface that I think is clogging the dip tube but even after blowing it out with CO2 it still doesn't flow. What PSI are you using to push the beer out and how are you avoiding clogged poppets?
 
For those using Fermonsters with floating dip tubes, what exactly is your process with hoppy beers?

The last two batches I've had issues trying to pull beer out through the dip tube. No matter how much I crash there is still some hop debris on the surface that I think is clogging the dip tube but even after blowing it out with CO2 it still doesn't flow. What PSI are you using to push the beer out and how are you avoiding clogged poppets?

I'm on my maiden voyage with my Fermonster's floating dip tube lid as I'm typing this. I plan to hop as normal and cold crash as normal. I'll report back once it's kegged next Wednesday.
 
For those using Fermonsters with floating dip tubes, what exactly is your process with hoppy beers?

The last two batches I've had issues trying to pull beer out through the dip tube. No matter how much I crash there is still some hop debris on the surface that I think is clogging the dip tube but even after blowing it out with CO2 it still doesn't flow. What PSI are you using to push the beer out and how are you avoiding clogged poppets?
I don’t experience that when I crash. They are literally all settled after 36. @Loud Brewing modified his CBD in his floating dip tube a little so he may have a solid answer
 
I had some hop debris clog my floating tube even after crashing but a hit of c02 to the post cleared it at 15 psi. (gas through the floating dip tube)

I transferred at 10 psi while I held my thumb on the crack in the lid.
 
For those using Fermonsters with floating dip tubes, what exactly is your process with hoppy beers?

The last two batches I've had issues trying to pull beer out through the dip tube. No matter how much I crash there is still some hop debris on the surface that I think is clogging the dip tube but even after blowing it out with CO2 it still doesn't flow. What PSI are you using to push the beer out and how are you avoiding clogged poppets?
I always cold crash to 36f for a minimum of 24 hours which settles most everything out. As far as pressure, it usually only takes 3-5psi to get siphon going into keg with a nice moderate flow that wont disturb anything. I also removed the poppets from both the liquid out post (on fermonster lid) and ball lock fitting on the fermenter side of the transfer line which helps reduce places that will trap particulate and increase flow a bit maybe lol.

Most clogging for me comes from the bottom of the fermenter when you suck up the hop bed/trub, but if your volumes are right you should already have your keg full and leave the dregs behind.
 
I've thought about removing the poppets but that seems like an o2 nightmare. What is your process for this?
 
I know it’s equivalent A20 is a low floc strain. The A04 barbarian has a high Floccuation ability and A24 is pretty much in the middle. So you technically shouldn’t have decanted the starter of the two yeast because the blend much higher in the connan strain since it flocs better

I didn't think about this and unfortunately missed this before overbuilding a starter, splitting it into two mason jars and decanting the one I pitched. That said, it had a good 72 hours in a 34F fridge and looked fairly clear above the yeast.

However I just pitched that into a well oxygenated step mashed 1.060 wort (148-30, 154-20, 164-20) and it finished at 1.019 which I was not expecting at all. Was hoping for more like 1.014 or so. First time using this yeast...is this normal? Could it be due to the decanting?
 
I didn't think about this and unfortunately missed this before overbuilding a starter, splitting it into two mason jars and decanting the one I pitched. That said, it had a good 72 hours in a 34F fridge and looked fairly clear above the yeast.

However I just pitched that into a well oxygenated step mashed 1.060 wort (148-30, 154-20, 164-20) and it finished at 1.019 which I was not expecting at all. Was hoping for more like 1.014 or so. First time using this yeast...is this normal? Could it be due to the decanting?
No they both attenuate well so even if it were primarily A04 it should ferment out. 1.019 does seem high even though you mashed out for alpha amalyse. What percentage of the gist was flaked/body building grains? Because that could certainly account for the higher fg. Also how long has it been at 1.019
 
No they both attenuate well so even if it were primarily A04 it should ferment out. 1.019 does seem high even though you mashed out for alpha amalyse. What percentage of the gist was flaked/body building grains? Because that could certainly account for the higher fg. Also how long has it been at 1.019

Here are the adjuncts/specialty grains

upload_2019-8-20_10-29-21.png


It's been there for a while. I just checked it with a hydro after a couple of days of no activity or change on my tilt and this is day 10 which is WAY longer than my ales normally take to ferment out (especially a 1.060).
 
Here are the adjuncts/specialty grains

View attachment 640743

It's been there for a while. I just checked it with a hydro after a couple of days of no activity or change on my tilt and this is day 10 which is WAY longer than my ales normally take to ferment out (especially a 1.060).
With roughly 5lbs of less fermentable grains in a 1.060 I’d say you’re right where you should be
 
I've thought about removing the poppets but that seems like an o2 nightmare. What is your process for this?
I use a regular unmodified ball lock on the liquid out post that has had the poppet removed during fermentation. Then during cold crash I hook up the gas side and run1-2 psi to prevent suck back.

After everything is settled (24-48 hrs) I will turn off gas and crack the fermonster lid to bleed off pressure. That's when I quickly attach my transfer line which also has the poppet on the fitting removed to the beer out post.

Finally, I use a crushed pet bottle with a carb cap on it and hook it up to the other side of the transfer line and slowly add psi until things begin to flow. This allows me to also bleed all the 02 from the transfer line. Once beer is all the way through the line, I pull the ball lock from the pet bottle and hook it up to my purged empty keg and start transfer by opening the PRV. Sounds complicated but it's very straight forward.
 
Nice...i used to pull poppets on the receiving keg but never from the fermenter. I like the crushed pet/carb cap trick. It's amazing how many uses those things have.
 
Nice...i used to pull poppets on the receiving keg but never from the fermenter. I like the crushed pet/carb cap trick. It's amazing how many uses those things have.
Yeah carb caps are awesome, I use them for everything. Removal of the poppets is not necessary if you cold crash and avoid the bottom trub like I said, but it cant hurt. One more thing to add is that I cut several slits in the small aluminum pick up tube that attaches to the float, that way if you do manage to get a clog in the main opening you will still get flow.
 
Anyone use the 2018 Azacca from YVH ? What profile did you pick up and at what rate did you WH/DH?
 
Anyone use the 2018 Azacca from YVH ? What profile did you pick up and at what rate did you WH/DH?

I have a dual hopped NE IPA on now with Citra / Azacca (both YVH 2018 crop).

1.060 / 1.012 (6.3%)
30 Min - 4 mL hop extract
10 Min - 1 oz of each hop
165* WP - 3 oz of each hop
Keg Dry Hop - 3 oz of each hop

It’s one of my favorite NE IPAs yet. Tons of tropical fruit (pineapple and melon on top of the typical Citra notes) and a nice firm bitterness.
 
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