New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[beervoid]

Welcome! I'm one of the few bottlers on this site (most seem to keg), so I'm happy to share what I've learned about bottling this style. My NEIPA's don't oxidize anymore, and in fact taste best after about 5 weeks in the bottle.

First and foremost, oxygen is your enemy. I would be way more worried about oxidizing your beer than dry hop lengths.

This means do not transfer to secondary, and do not transfer to the bottling bucket. Just bottle right from the primary fermenter into bottles with sugar in them. I bottle into bombers and use 2 Cooper's carbonation drops, but you could also use regular bottling sugar.

You don't have to worry about the first dry hop, because you'll have plenty of co2 that will force out the oxygen. For the second one, though, I purge using a can of wine preserver spray (about $7 on the internet).

Let me know if you have any questions, and while they mean well, don't let anyone tell you that you can't bottle a NEIPA if you take some simple steps to keep oxygen away from your beer!

This might be true for the short term but they do not live up as well as canned neipa's. The caps on bottles leak oxygen no matter what and oxygen absorbing caps absorb aroma.
I've had multiple examples of commercialy brewed and bottled new england ipa's. Not one of them had held up well and came even remotely close to the flavor of canned examples.
Light plays a role here as well. I recommend wax to close it and wrapping them in something that blocks the light if not stored dark.

 

[AnttiLeh]

Thanks guys for the advices, Ill take note from those and wont do secondary and also will work about the style how to minimize
the oxygen exposure. At the moment strait away bottling from primary sounds like the best idea with carbonation drops.

If i skip the FG measurement and put all the dry hop from water lock hole, will it help? Sounds stupid but had to ask.

Can you guys tell me why NEIPAs are so fragile towards oxygen? I have done few IPAS, Amber ales and wheats and they have came out damn nice. I havent use secondary on those but i have used bottling bucket for suger.

 

[leesmith]

Are you referring to taking measurements before spunding or to determine if it's finished?

If the latter, you go by pressure as long as your valve is not leaking.

If the former, you take a hydrometer or adjusted refractometer reading and use that and the fft to determine timing of the spund

He’s not spunding.

He’s finishing primary fermentation...conditioning...and then krausening to carbonate.

I believe his response was how he determines the final product is done carbonating.

Which he says he bases it on the beer he krausened from. When it’s done the beer he’s carbonating is done.

I understand you can go by pressure but that’s not what he indicated....just wanted clarification from him.

 

[couchsending]

He’s not spunding.

He’s finishing primary fermentation...conditioning...and then krausening to carbonate.

I believe his response was how he determines the final product is done carbonating.

Which he says he bases it on the beer he krausened from. When it’s done the beer he’s carbonating is done.

I understand you can go by pressure but that’s not what he indicated....just wanted clarification from him.

I’ll put a valve on it and check the pressure for sure. Ideally I believe it’s 28psi at roughly 68*. It never quite gets there but I just adjust with Co2 when it’s in the keezer. The scale I have isn’t digital so the amount of fermenting beer I transfer isn’t always exact. I usually get to 22-24 PSI when all is said and done.

 

[SRJHops]

Thanks guys for the advices, Ill take note from those and wont do secondary and also will work about the style how to minimize
the oxygen exposure. At the moment strait away bottling from primary sounds like the best idea with carbonation drops.

If i skip the FG measurement and put all the dry hop from water lock hole, will it help? Sounds stupid but had to ask.

Can you guys tell me why NEIPAs are so fragile towards oxygen? I have done few IPAS, Amber ales and wheats and they have came out damn nice. I havent use secondary on those but i have used bottling bucket for suger.

I didn't quite understand "put all the dry hop from water lock hole," but I do recommend skipping ALL gravity measurements except the the final one you take when you bottle. (Heresy, I know!) It's not worth the oxygen exposure.

As long as you saw active fermentation the first week, and let your beer clean up the second week, odds are that you hit whatever FG you were going to hit. If you didn't, then you probably couldn't do much about it anyway -- and if your beer didn't ferment or you didn't even come close to your FG goal, then there are other things to worry about as far as technique.

I think the short answer from a non-technical perspective is the massive amount of hops is what makes the style so prone to oxidation -- or perhaps it's the oats. But whatever the reason, it's crazy how a little oxygen will ruin this style. Of course, these low oxygen techniques are probably good for regular IPAs too, if not ALL beers.

 

[SRJHops]

This might be true for the short term but they do not live up as well as canned neipa's. The caps on bottles leak oxygen no matter what and oxygen absorbing caps absorb aroma.
I've had multiple examples of commercialy brewed and bottled new england ipa's. Not one of them had held up well and came even remotely close to the flavor of canned examples.
Light plays a role here as well. I recommend wax to close it and wrapping them in something that blocks the light if not stored dark.

Certainly won't argue against canning. People thought Surly Brewing was doing something odd when they canned Furious back in the day, and now everyone is canning. Only makes sense -- but is there a low cost canning system for home brewers?

The wax idea is interesting. I am not having problems with oxidation, even after being in the bottle for 6 weeks, but it could be worth exploring. Is there are special technique you are using? Just melt some wax and dip in the bottle?

 

[Loud Brewing]

Depends on what you consider low cost, but kegland the company who makes the robobrew is releasing a can seamer that will be half the price of the current american made offerings. Here's a video

 

[couchsending]

Issue with canning is O2 uptake. On the pro scale it’s tough to keep O2 pickup to a minimum. On a manual setup geared toward homebrewers I can’t imagine what the TPO levels would be.

Ingress is higher with bottles but it’s so much easier to start with a low level.

 

[leesmith]

Issue with canning is O2 uptake. On the pro scale it’s tough to keep O2 pickup to a minimum. On a manual setup geared toward homebrewers I can’t imagine what the TPO levels would be.

Ingress is higher with bottles but it’s so much easier to start with a low level.

Pretty good write up here: http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/uncategorized/packaging-canning-beer-home/

 

[KyleF318is]

Depends on what you consider low cost, but kegland the company who makes the robobrew is releasing a can seamer that will be half the price of the current american made offerings. Here's a video

I wonder if this is USD? $399 is a lot cheaper than The Oktober Sl1 which I’ve been dragging my feet on waiting for a free shipping or discount code.

 

[Genuine]

Planning a brew day tomorrow with Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado! Package of hops are coming in for YVH today. These beers help to buy hops in bulk.

 

[Dgallo]

Planning a brew day tomorrow with Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado! Package of hops are coming in for YVH today. These beers help to buy hops in bulk.

The last batch of citra and Mosiac I’ve gotten from YVH were outstanding. Both hops must of come from a quality farm.

 

[emr25]

Another NE IPA tomorrow, recipe below. Going simple and lighter in color on the grain bill to let the hops take center stage.

OG - 1.060
FG - 1.012
ABV - ~6.3%
~55 IBU

Malts
(61.5%) 12 lbs Weyermann Barke Pilsner
(20.5%) 4 lbs Weyermann Pale Ale
(13%) 2 lbs 8 oz White Wheat
(5%) 1 lbs Weyermann Acidulated

Mash Schedule
131* (Dough-In)
144* (15 Min Rest)
148* (15 Min Rest)
153* (15 Min Rest)
163* (20 Min Rest)
172* (10 Min Rest)

Hops
30 Min - 3 mL Warrior Extract
10 Min - 1 oz Galaxy / 1 oz Vic Secret
160* Whirlpool - 3 oz Galaxy / 3 oz Vic Secret
Keg Dry Hop - 3 oz Galaxy / 3 oz Vic Secret

Yeast
London Ale III (WY1318)

 

[AnttiLeh]

Did my first NEIPA with Braufessors recipe (edit II) and everything went quiet well.
OG 1.061, placed in fermentation bucket to fridge 19 celsius and now waiting for it to come alive.

I was planning to get this set ready for Easter, what do you guys think will it be drinkable then?
Going to bottle it so wont be as fast as kegging.

2weeks in ferm and 2 weeks in bottle.

 

[schematix]

Did my first NEIPA with Braufessors recipe (edit II) and everything went quiet well.
OG 1.061, placed in fermentation bucket to fridge 19 celsius and now waiting for it to come alive.

I was planning to get this set ready for Easter, what do you guys think will it be drinkable then?
Going to bottle it so wont be as fast as kegging.

2weeks in ferm and 2 weeks in bottle.

Ales are done fermenting in a couple days, assuming proper pitching and yeast health. 2 weeks is just inviting oxidation.

Also they’ll carb up quicker if you rack it before all the yeast is dormant.

 

[SRJHops]

Last night I sampled my newest bottle-conditioned NEIPA, which admittedly is still very green and not fully carbonated. If I've learned anything, it's that this style needs a few weeks in the bottle for the hops to blend and everything to settle out. Still... I'm left with a few process thoughts/concerns this morning:

1. Slight chemical taste. This is the first batch where I made water adjustments beyond removing the chlorine and tossing in a little gypsum. I added salts and acids to bring the Ca to 100, CL to 147, and SO to 97. It's not overwhelming, and maybe it's because I know the chemicals are in there, but I did get a slight chemical taste. Do you think it will fade as the hops blend and the beer carbonates fully?

Or perhaps getting the CL up that high is the problem, at least for my taste? I know those levels are close to the common recommendation for the style, but so far I don't notice any greater softness or better mouthfeel, so not sure it's worth it. (I also have to acknowledge the possibility that I didn't get all the chlorine removed -- but I have not had this problem with the previous 8 batches.)

2. More hops is less? Way too early to really know how the flavor will turn out -- and the aroma is rock solid -- but my first taste didn't result in my hoped-for flavor explosion. I brew 6 gallons and dialed down the hops from 18 ounces to 14 ounces, split equally between hot side whirlpool and two dry hop additions.

So far it seems a little less tasty than the previous one with 18 ounces. If this ends up my final conclusion, I might go back to thinking MORE IS MORE.... Does anyone else think this too? (The goal always remains the same: Make a beer as good as the best ones from Toppling Goliath.)

3. Why do we cold crash this style? Since there's going to be some sediment in my bottle-conditioned beers no matter what I do, I'm left wondering why we bother to cold crash this style? Just to drop out some yeast and hop particles and perhaps make a more compact yeast cake?

The downside is possible 02 suck-back into the carboy, as well as stripping out some of the hop oil flavor. Is there anyone out there who thinks that maybe cold crashing is not a good idea for this style?

Random thoughts of a homebrewer... Love to hear some of your thoughts..

 

[stickyfinger]

Last night I sampled my newest bottle-conditioned NEIPA, which admittedly is still very green and not fully carbonated. If I've learned anything, it's that this style needs a few weeks in the bottle for the hops to blend and everything to settle out. Still... I'm left with a few process thoughts/concerns this morning:

1. Slight chemical taste. This is the first batch where I made water adjustments beyond removing the chlorine and tossing in a little gypsum. I added salts and acids to bring the Ca to 100, CL to 147, and SO to 97. It's not overwhelming, and maybe it's because I know the chemicals are in there, but I did get a slight chemical taste. Do you think it will fade as the hops blend and the beer carbonates fully?

Could be from the hops too depending on what you used. they can sometimes give metallic, medicinal, and many other notes. just a thought. the only salt change was adding calcium chloride? If you added magnesium in excess you can get metallic I think.

Or perhaps getting the CL up that high is the problem, at least for my taste? I know those levels are close to the common recommendation for the style, but so far I don't notice any greater softness or better mouthfeel, so not sure it's worth it. (I also have to acknowledge the possibility that I didn't get all the chlorine removed -- but I have not had this problem with the previous 8 batches.)


3. Why do we cold crash this style? Since there's going to be some sediment in my bottle-conditioned beers no matter what I do, I'm left wondering why we bother to cold crash this style? Just to drop out some yeast and hop particles and perhaps make a more compact yeast cake?

Seems the main reason to crash is to drop yeast and hops so you can rack more easily/get less particulate into the keg/bottle. Since you are bottling, I don't think it really matters unless you are getting clogging. The danger of sucking in air is huge in my opinion, so only crash if you can keep air out. I had problems with diacetyl for many beers and it was due to cold crashing and then racking to a keg and force carbonating. However, now that I use a more secure bung, I think I might try a crash again sometime.

Lack of carbonation can make it seem like the hops aren't as strong too...

 

[SRJHops]

I used Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe, and Amarillo. I added some calcium chloride, gypsum, and a very small amount of epsom salt, plus lactic acid. The metallic taste is subtle, so we'll see if it dies down. Have you ever tried reversing the Cl and SO targets? Like 150 So and 75 Cl? That's more west coast IPA, right?

I do get a little clogging of the spigot, which I am still working on reducing. I can usually get it unclogged, though. For now I just use the first beer coming out for the hydrometer, and the first bottle or two as the ones to drink first to test the carbonation (because they have some hop floaters and sometimes some extra yeast).

I can't really keep the air out, so I think I'm going to skip the cold crash from now on for this style. It doesn't seem worth it to me...

I also go back and forth regarding whether to bag the dry hops or do commando style. Seems like there may only be some slight advantages to commando, based on Brulosophy exbeeriments I have read and such, so I might go back to bagging...

 

[stickyfinger]

I used Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe, and Amarillo. I added some calcium chloride, gypsum, and a very small amount of epsom salt, plus lactic acid. The metallic taste is subtle, so we'll see if it dies down. Have you ever tried reversing the Cl and SO targets? Like 150 So and 75 Cl? That's more west coast IPA, right?

well, the only one of those with something maybe having chemical taste would be certain lots of amarillo. doesn't sound like a hope issue though unless they were old.

i've done 150 sulfate and like 35 chloride. i like it personally, but many won't. it is very crisp. west coast is 150ppm and on up for sulfate. i've only ever done 150ppm or lower. some have gone higher with success. Brau did some at 150/75, 75/150 and 75/75 i think. they are all different but all good.

 

[beervoid]

Last night I sampled my newest bottle-conditioned NEIPA, which admittedly is still very green and not fully carbonated. If I've learned anything, it's that this style needs a few weeks in the bottle for the hops to blend and everything to settle out. Still... I'm left with a few process thoughts/concerns this morning:

1. Slight chemical taste. This is the first batch where I made water adjustments beyond removing the chlorine and tossing in a little gypsum. I added salts and acids to bring the Ca to 100, CL to 147, and SO to 97. It's not overwhelming, and maybe it's because I know the chemicals are in there, but I did get a slight chemical taste. Do you think it will fade as the hops blend and the beer carbonates fully?

Or perhaps getting the CL up that high is the problem, at least for my taste? I know those levels are close to the common recommendation for the style, but so far I don't notice any greater softness or better mouthfeel, so not sure it's worth it. (I also have to acknowledge the possibility that I didn't get all the chlorine removed -- but I have not had this problem with the previous 8 batches.)

2. More hops is less? Way too early to really know how the flavor will turn out -- and the aroma is rock solid -- but my first taste didn't result in my hoped-for flavor explosion. I brew 6 gallons and dialed down the hops from 18 ounces to 14 ounces, split equally between hot side whirlpool and two dry hop additions.

So far it seems a little less tasty than the previous one with 18 ounces. If this ends up my final conclusion, I might go back to thinking MORE IS MORE.... Does anyone else think this too? (The goal always remains the same: Make a beer as good as the best ones from Toppling Goliath.)

3. Why do we cold crash this style? Since there's going to be some sediment in my bottle-conditioned beers no matter what I do, I'm left wondering why we bother to cold crash this style? Just to drop out some yeast and hop particles and perhaps make a more compact yeast cake?

The downside is possible 02 suck-back into the carboy, as well as stripping out some of the hop oil flavor. Is there anyone out there who thinks that maybe cold crashing is not a good idea for this style?

Random thoughts of a homebrewer... Love to hear some of your thoughts..

In my experience more is def not more.
Its cheaper to start on the lower side and slowly up the amounts. 6oz dry hop is a really good amount and if your process is right and hop choice you will have great flavor and aroma. Simply upping hop additions isnt going to make the beer better and you are just wasting hops.
I would focus on the process first and once you can make a great tasting neipa with 6oz u can up and see for yourself where the point of diminishing returns is.
For me its not far above 6oz

 

[Dgallo]

I fell like this conversation has been covered multiple times here. There’s a sweeet spot where you get bright beautiful hop flavors/aromas but if you go over it you end up getting a hoppy mess of a muddled flavors. I’m with @beervoid here. My dryhops are from .8-1.2 oz per gallon and same with the whirlpool. My total hopping for the beer will be 2-2.5oz per gallon which is 10-12 oz in total.

 

[SRJHops]

I fell like this conversation has been covered multiple times here. There’s a sweeet spot where you get bright beautiful hop flavors/aromas but if you go over it you end up getting a hoppy mess of a muddled flavors. I’m with @beervoid here. My dryhops are from .8-1.2 oz per gallon and same with the whirlpool. My total hopping for the beer will be 2-2.5oz per gallon which is 10-12 oz in total.

Agree that it has been covered... Just wondering if anyone out there hops at closer to 3 or 4 ounces per gallon. It seems that rate might be getting me closer to the flavor of Toppling Goliath beers and the best of the best...

What is ultimately tough here is that some folks swear as little as 6 or 8 ounces is plenty. Is their beer tasty? Sure. But is it as good as the best NEIPAs?

 

[Dgallo]

Agree that it has been covered... Just wondering if anyone out there hops at closer to 3 or 4 ounces per gallon. It seems that rate might be getting me closer to the flavor of Toppling Goliath beers and the best of the best...

What is ultimately tough here is that some folks swear as little as 6 or 8 ounces is plenty. Is their beer tasty? Sure. But is it as good as the best NEIPAs?

That would be very expensive for a commercial brewery at 4 oz gallon . Some big name breweries like Trillium, Weld works, and Sloop have provide their 5 gallon size scale down on hops and they all were between 9-10 oz per 5 gallon batch

 

[tld6008]

Last night I sampled my newest bottle-conditioned NEIPA, which admittedly is still very green and not fully carbonated. If I've learned anything, it's that this style needs a few weeks in the bottle for the hops to blend and everything to settle out. Still... I'm left with a few process thoughts/concerns this morning:

1. Slight chemical taste. This is the first batch where I made water adjustments beyond removing the chlorine and tossing in a little gypsum. I added salts and acids to bring the Ca to 100, CL to 147, and SO to 97. It's not overwhelming, and maybe it's because I know the chemicals are in there, but I did get a slight chemical taste. Do you think it will fade as the hops blend and the beer carbonates fully?

Or perhaps getting the CL up that high is the problem, at least for my taste? I know those levels are close to the common recommendation for the style, but so far I don't notice any greater softness or better mouthfeel, so not sure it's worth it. (I also have to acknowledge the possibility that I didn't get all the chlorine removed -- but I have not had this problem with the previous 8 batches.)

2. More hops is less? Way too early to really know how the flavor will turn out -- and the aroma is rock solid -- but my first taste didn't result in my hoped-for flavor explosion. I brew 6 gallons and dialed down the hops from 18 ounces to 14 ounces, split equally between hot side whirlpool and two dry hop additions.

So far it seems a little less tasty than the previous one with 18 ounces. If this ends up my final conclusion, I might go back to thinking MORE IS MORE.... Does anyone else think this too? (The goal always remains the same: Make a beer as good as the best ones from Toppling Goliath.)

3. Why do we cold crash this style? Since there's going to be some sediment in my bottle-conditioned beers no matter what I do, I'm left wondering why we bother to cold crash this style? Just to drop out some yeast and hop particles and perhaps make a more compact yeast cake?

The downside is possible 02 suck-back into the carboy, as well as stripping out some of the hop oil flavor. Is there anyone out there who thinks that maybe cold crashing is not a good idea for this style?

Random thoughts of a homebrewer... Love to hear some of your thoughts..

1&2. Every time I have brewed this recipe I have followed The OPs guidelines and used RO water. He has basically done all the research you need unless you want to make something else. Never had any off or lack of flavor issues.
3. The OP doesn't cold crash but I can't get the hops to drop out unless I do, you drop the hops to keep all the particulate debris out of your beer... no other reason. Use the CO2 bag method to keep air from entering the fermentor as you chill it, simple and cheap unless you don't have a Co2 source, if not capture some fermentation CO2 to use. This is definitely worth doing IMO.

 

[WBCo]

Agree that it has been covered... Just wondering if anyone out there hops at closer to 3 or 4 ounces per gallon. It seems that rate might be getting me closer to the flavor of Toppling Goliath beers and the best of the best...

What is ultimately tough here is that some folks swear as little as 6 or 8 ounces is plenty. Is their beer tasty? Sure. But is it as good as the best NEIPAs?

I have used 20 oz total in a 5 gallon batch. I guess it was technically closer to 7 gallons total, but I only packaged one 5 gallon keg. I've only done this once, and the batch was all Citra. I had a one pound bag of it and an opened bag with 4 oz left in it, so decided to use all of it. I did drop the first charge of hops out of the conical before the second round of dryhopping. This was, without a doubt, one of the best brews I have ever done. I'd definitely say I was past the point of diminishing returns, but I don't like leaving open bags of hops and I wanted to see how it would turn out.

Also, I know you go to great lengths to bottle your hoppy beers as responsibly as possible, but I promise you that the oxygen exposure is degrading your hop presence, even if only a little. Coming from someone who went from bottle conditioning, to open transfers to a keg and force carbing, to now completely closed fermentation and transfers, there is a noticeable difference.

That would be very expensive for a commercial brewery at 4 oz gallon . Some big name breweries like Trillium, Weld works, and Sloop have provide their 5 gallon size scale down on hops and they all were between 9-10 oz per 5 gallon batch

I have brewed on a professional kit a couple times, all were hoppy beers, and one or two were recipes of mine that were brewed and served at the brewery. One of the things that I took away was the hop utilization was completely different at that scale. Not sure if these breweries are accounting for that or not when they scale these recipes. Just something to think about.

 

[Dgallo]

I have brewed on a professional kit a couple times, all were hoppy beers, and one or two were recipes of mine that were brewed and served at the brewery. One of the things that I took away was the hop utilization was completely different at that scale. Not sure if these breweries are accounting for that or not when they scale these recipes. Just something to think about.

My self included. Volume size increased utilization due to increased surface area. They typically get a 25-30% increase in utilization than a 5gallon batch size. At 9-10oz per gallon scale down would put the commercial brewery at 3-4 lbs per bbl which seems to be pretty standard right now. Of course some breweries are claiming/going higher than that which is a big part of the marketing.

 

[marchuk96]

Last night I sampled my newest bottle-conditioned NEIPA, which admittedly is still very green and not fully carbonated. If I've learned anything, it's that this style needs a few weeks in the bottle for the hops to blend and everything to settle out. Still... I'm left with a few process thoughts/concerns this morning:

1. Slight chemical taste. This is the first batch where I made water adjustments beyond removing the chlorine and tossing in a little gypsum. I added salts and acids to bring the Ca to 100, CL to 147, and SO to 97. It's not overwhelming, and maybe it's because I know the chemicals are in there, but I did get a slight chemical taste. Do you think it will fade as the hops blend and the beer carbonates fully?

Or perhaps getting the CL up that high is the problem, at least for my taste? I know those levels are close to the common recommendation for the style, but so far I don't notice any greater softness or better mouthfeel, so not sure it's worth it. (I also have to acknowledge the possibility that I didn't get all the chlorine removed -- but I have not had this problem with the previous 8 batches.)

2. More hops is less? Way too early to really know how the flavor will turn out -- and the aroma is rock solid -- but my first taste didn't result in my hoped-for flavor explosion. I brew 6 gallons and dialed down the hops from 18 ounces to 14 ounces, split equally between hot side whirlpool and two dry hop additions.

So far it seems a little less tasty than the previous one with 18 ounces. If this ends up my final conclusion, I might go back to thinking MORE IS MORE.... Does anyone else think this too? (The goal always remains the same: Make a beer as good as the best ones from Toppling Goliath.)

3. Why do we cold crash this style? Since there's going to be some sediment in my bottle-conditioned beers no matter what I do, I'm left wondering why we bother to cold crash this style? Just to drop out some yeast and hop particles and perhaps make a more compact yeast cake?

The downside is possible 02 suck-back into the carboy, as well as stripping out some of the hop oil flavor. Is there anyone out there who thinks that maybe cold crashing is not a good idea for this style?

Random thoughts of a homebrewer... Love to hear some of your thoughts..

So your water numbers look OK...what did you use to achieve them?? And could you better describe "chemical" flavor...did you use campden tablet? In the past i know you have mentioned you use a filter but again you dont know to what extent that filter is doing for chlorine levels...it could also just be a mental thing...as far as more is more...I def. believe the opposite is true...or at least there is a sweet spot...for the 5-6 gal batch range I believe that to be between 8-12 oz...I just made a single hope "pale ale" with only 8 oz and came off more IPA like than pale ale like...I just believe you get a much more definitive less muddled representation with amounts in that range as opposed to the 1lb + quantities...and finally as far as crashing...I believe it to be a must...I agree that suck back is an issue but if you have a way to prevent it than I think you have to crash...everything just flocks to the bottom giving you a much cleaner product when packaging...I am able to just push co2 into my fermonster threw my bung so I usually crash for a day and package right from there leaving co2 on the whole time till the fermentor is empty and in my keg...

 

[SRJHops]

That would be very expensive for a commercial brewery at 4 oz gallon . Some big name breweries like Trillium, Weld works, and Sloop have provide their 5 gallon size scale down on hops and they all were between 9-10 oz per 5 gallon batch

Fair enough, but it begs the question of whether we can replicate that at the homebrew level? The commercial brewers certainly have equipment that we don't... So maybe we need to up the quantities?

 

[marchuk96]

Fair enough, but it begs the question of whether we can replicate that at the homebrew level? The commercial brewers certainly have equipment that we don't... So maybe we need to up the quantities?

Simply put...yes we can...and no... we don't!!

 

[Dgallo]

Fair enough, but it begs the question of whether we can replicate that at the homebrew level? The commercial brewers certainly have equipment that we don't... So maybe we need to up the quantities?

You can absolutely replicate the quality at the homebrewer level. So that I’m talking about my own beers, I had many of @marchuk96 ipas and he consistently beats many commercial breweries. Also I’ve had @ttuato NE and it was honestly on the same level as the commercial beer we try to imitate.