New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[leesmith]

It all depends on what you’re trying to achieve.

For hoppy beers I’d only do a step at 145 if it’s a big beer with lower attenuating yeast.

You can mess with the length of the 145 rest to screw with fetmrntability but I don’t have enough data on that to recommend certain times.

I don’t think you need to combine a 145 step with a step in the 150s unless you’re really trying to dry things out or using a low attenuating yeast.

I also don’t think the mash out step is overly important on the home brew scale unless you struggle with stuck mashes. It’s important on a pro scale more than on our little scale. It helps to lock in a profile but if you’re doing the long 162 step it’s not going to get you much more. If you’re trying to get a high FG it can help but with hops you don’t really want that.

I’ve been doing the mash out step not really for anything except to measure and adjust ph preboil....

Gives me time...I’ll just hold it in the 170’s until I’m confident in my readings and adjustment....then move on.

*Edit...I do full volume mashing though.

 

[stickyfinger]

If you want to reduce ABV, mash high and do a mashout. The resulting beer will taste awesome. I usually mash between 160-165F with a mashout. As long as the simple sugars attenuate, it won't be "sweet". If you like crispness, try boosting the sulfate.

Thanks for the input. I tend to use lower attenuating English yeasts, as most do, so I don't mind a drier beer than what I'd get from mashing for something like 154 for 60 minutes or so. I know a lot of people chase a higher final gravity with this style, but I tend to prefer getting some malt flavor from the base malt and letting the beer dry out a little more. I like the drinkability of a crisper beer and I feel like a lower FG lends to creating a beer that is more sessionable.

I agree with you on the mash out, I BIAB so I definitely don't have a use for one. As soon as my timer goes off I crank up the element and get the grains out of there.

 

[schematix]

Great, thanks! Does the 171*F make a huge difference, or is that your mash out?

Is your 152 step only 5 min or is that a mistype? Just curious since that seems like a short amount of time.

Yes 171 is the mashout. I’ve never gone without it so I can’t give you a comparative answer, but most brewing literature indicates positive benefits so I go with it.

The 152 is just 5 mins. It’d really just an insurance step against high gelatinization temps.

Careful doing a single infusion at 145. There is a good chance that’s not warm enough to gelatinize all the starch.

I get 100% mash conversion with the 144/148/162/171 every single time. It’s great.

 

[RTHP99]

For those of you who spund, I’m looking for some advice. I’m currently close to 48 hours since I pitched 1.5l of 1318, and 24 hours since I added the dry hops. I know the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings but I do not want to take any. I know the 1318 finishes up fast and I don’t want to miss the opportunity to transfer to the keg while their is still enough activity to carbonate itself and eat up any expose oxygen , but don’t want to transfer too soon. The Krausen is currently pretty high, but the activity seems to have slowed down, and the temperature has pretty much been stabilized for a few hours now

 

[Loud Brewing]

For those of you who spund, I’m looking for some advice. I’m currently close to 48 hours since I pitched 1.5l of 1318, and 24 hours since I added the dry hops. I know the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings but I do not want to take any. I know the 1318 finishes up fast and I don’t want to miss the opportunity to transfer to the keg while their is still enough activity to carbonate itself and eat up any expose oxygen , but don’t want to transfer too soon. The Krausen is currently pretty high, but the activity seems to have slowed down, and the temperature has pretty much been stabilized for a few hours now

Looks good, is there a reason u dont want to take a sample? Moving the beer on day 2 isn't worth it imo. If you separate the beer from the cake it can stall fermentation and or not let the yeast clean up. I would prefer to let the beer finish in the fermentor and do a closed transfer if you are worried about oxy. I see you have a fermonster, for about 25 bucks you can make a pressure kit similar to the fermentasaurus. Drill 2 1/2 holes in your lid and use 2 ball lock fittings. Then pressurize fermenter and push the beer into the keg. I usually finish day 7-10, warm up to 72f for a dia rest. Then cold crash for 24hrs and transfer. Good luck!

 

[RTHP99]

Looks good, is there a reason u dont want to take a sample? Moving the beer on day 2 isn't worth it imo. If you separate the beer from the cake it can stall fermentation and or not let the yeast clean up. I would prefer to let the beer finish in the fermentor and do a closed transfer if you are worried about oxy. I see you have a fermonster, for about 25 bucks you can make a pressure kit similar to the fermentasaurus. Drill 2 1/2 holes in your lid and use 2 ball lock fittings. Then pressurize fermenter and push the beer into the keg. I usually finish day 7-10, warm up to 72f for a dia rest. Then cold crash for 24hrs and transfer. Good luck!
View attachment 614354

I’ve had problems with oxidizing in all of the ipas I’ve brewed except for 1- the one that I tried spunding. Despite trying a closed transfer, things getting clogged and having to open everything up and creating a big mess, to my surprise that beer held up incredibly well. I’m going to try a closed transfer again but now I have a hop spider set up as a filter over the racking cane this time. I did modify my cap so that I can do closed transfer

 

[leesmith]

For those of you who spund, I’m looking for some advice. I’m currently close to 48 hours since I pitched 1.5l of 1318, and 24 hours since I added the dry hops. I know the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings but I do not want to take any. I know the 1318 finishes up fast and I don’t want to miss the opportunity to transfer to the keg while their is still enough activity to carbonate itself and eat up any expose oxygen , but don’t want to transfer too soon. The Krausen is currently pretty high, but the activity seems to have slowed down, and the temperature has pretty much been stabilized for a few hours now

What’s the OG of the beer? My bet it’s close to FG.

I brew a lot of 1.045 to 1.50 beers and they are at FG on day two with 1318.

If you have a spunding valve...then any excess pressure will bleed off.

 

[RTHP99]

What’s the OG of the beer? My bet it’s close to FG.

I brew a lot of 1.045 to 1.50 beers and they are at FG on day two with 1318.

If you have a spunding valve...then any excess pressure will bleed off.

1.060

 

[RTHP99]

Well, it was another failed attempt at a closed transfer. Everything was going smooth for the first 1/4, then it stopped flowing, still not sure what happened. Had the fermenter and the keg opened for a while, hopefully there’s enough active yeast left like last time this happened and the beer still turned out great . Time will tell

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Well, it was another failed attempt at a closed transfer. Everything was going smooth for the first 1/4, then it stopped flowing, still not sure what happened. Had the fermenter and the keg opened for a while, hopefully there’s enough active yeast left like last time this happened and the beer still turned out great . Time will tell

Have you thought about a Fermentasaurous with the pressure option? Also need a pressure relief valve. No need to transfer. I'm still working out the bugs myself but it's getting better.

 

[RTHP99]

Would that fit into a kegerator ? I use a second kegerator as a fermentation chamber

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Would that fit into a kegerator ? I use a second kegerator as a fermentation chamber

I have a small chest feeezer that it scraps the walls and I have to add wood to but fits.

 

[leesmith]

Well, it was another failed attempt at a closed transfer. Everything was going smooth for the first 1/4, then it stopped flowing, still not sure what happened. Had the fermenter and the keg opened for a while, hopefully there’s enough active yeast left like last time this happened and the beer still turned out great . Time will tell

It should be fine with the yeast still active.

Next time bag the hops...and suspend from the lid.

 

[SRJHops]

Anyone else read the Scott Janish article in the new Brew Your Own mag? It's kind of a preview of his new NEIPA book. Got my head spinning - and right before I was headed out to my LHBS to get ingredients!

His recipe is based on latest science... No flaked adjuncts; dial down the wheat; fwh and kettle hop; two 10 min hopstands at 200 and 185. Don't over dry hop. Great stuff and kind of challenges some of the norms...

 

[RCope]

Finally got the taste, mouthfeel and color I was looking for after several attempts...the failed attempts were all good but didn't seem to hit all the focus points. Thanks to all who post to this thread....Cheers!`1

 

[tld6008]

Finally got the taste, mouthfeel and color I was looking for after several attempts...the failed attempts were all good but didn't seem to hit all the focus points. Thanks to all who post to this thread....Cheers!`1View attachment 614636

And are we supposed to guess what you did?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Subscribers can find the Janish articles here : https://byo.com/writer/scott-janish/

 

[emr25]

Latest NE IPA, recipe was inspired by the OP in this thread with tweaks along the way.

OG - 1.060
FG - 1.012
ABV - ~6.3%

Malts
(38%) 7 lbs 5.04 oz Rahr 2-Row
(38%) 7 lbs 5.04 oz Golden Promise
(16%) 3 lbs 1.28 oz White Wheat
(3%) 9.24 oz Weyermann Barke Vienna
(3%) 9.24 oz Weyermann Acidulated
(2%) 6.16 oz Gambrinus Honey

Mash Schedule
131* (Dough-In)
144* (15 Min Rest)
148* (15 Min Rest)
153* (15 Min Rest)
163* (20 Min Rest)
172* (10 Min Rest)

Hops
30 Min - 5 mL Hop Extract
10 Min - 1 oz Columbus
160* Whirlpool - 1 oz Columbus / 2 oz Citra / 2 oz Mosaic / 2 oz Ella
Dry Hop (Keg) - 2 oz Citra / 2 oz Mosaic / 2 oz Ella

Yeast
London III (WY1318)

This is 8 days from brew day. 2 days in primary, 3 days in the keg at room temperature to spund with dry hops, 3 days cold conditioning.

 

[stickyfinger]

My hearty advice is to get a couple clear beer draught systems, ferment in the keg and serve from the keg. You don't have to open the keg at all ever if you don't want to. no oxidation, no diacetyl.

For those of you who spund, I’m looking for some advice. I’m currently close to 48 hours since I pitched 1.5l of 1318, and 24 hours since I added the dry hops. I know the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings but I do not want to take any. I know the 1318 finishes up fast and I don’t want to miss the opportunity to transfer to the keg while their is still enough activity to carbonate itself and eat up any expose oxygen , but don’t want to transfer too soon. The Krausen is currently pretty high, but the activity seems to have slowed down, and the temperature has pretty much been stabilized for a few hours now

 

[Ghostnuke]

Can I get some help with my hop schedule?

I came up with this:

20 minutes - 1 oz citra/mosaic/galaxy
whirlpool - 2 oz citra/mosaic, 1 oz galaxy
dry hop - 2 oz citra, 1 oz mosaid/galaxy

but I'm thinking that's going to be a very grapefruity sort of citrus and I'd like to be more towards orange. Maybe azacca instead of citra?

 

[SRJHops]

Can I get some help with my hop schedule?

I came up with this:

20 minutes - 1 oz citra/mosaic/galaxy
whirlpool - 2 oz citra/mosaic, 1 oz galaxy
dry hop - 2 oz citra, 1 oz mosaid/galaxy

but I'm thinking that's going to be a very grapefruity sort of citrus and I'd like to be more towards orange. Maybe azacca instead of citra?

I've been using Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy -- which is pretty classic for a NEIPA -- and I don't get much grapefruit. I get tropical/fruit punch, pineapple and a hint of orange.

I would keep the Citra for sure. I haven't used Azacca yet, but I've heard it could bring some orange -- maybe use 4 hops? At 9 ounces (5 gallon batch) so far, I think you can add an ounce or two and not be over hopping.

For what it's worth, IMO 3 ounces in the boil could bring a bit more bitterness, and I'd be tempted to move an ounce or two to flameout or 200 degree whirlpool.

Do you plan to double dry hop?

 

[Ghostnuke]

I've been using Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy -- which is pretty classic for a NEIPA -- and I don't get much grapefruit. I get tropical/fruit punch, pineapple and a hint of orange.

I would keep the Citra for sure. I haven't used Azacca yet, but I've heard it could bring some orange -- maybe use 4 hops? At 9 ounces (5 gallon batch) so far, I think you can add an ounce or two and not be over hopping.

For what it's worth, IMO 3 ounces in the boil could bring a bit more bitterness, and I'd be tempted to move an ounce or two to flameout or 200 degree whirlpool.

Do you plan to double dry hop?

I might've written it a bit confusingly, it's 12 oz total. Only planning on doing 1 dry hop a couple days before kegging.

 

[SRJHops]

I might've written it a bit confusingly, it's 12 oz total. Only planning on doing 1 dry hop a couple days before kegging.

Oh, well maybe swap in some Azacca this time or next and see what you think? For my latest NEIPA, I kept the Citra and Mosaic, but used Simcoe instead of Galaxy.

Cool on the dry hop plan. Lots of people are skipping the biotrans addition on Day 1-2. I'm personally still doing it, then another a few days before bottling. At the very least, it breaks up the hop addition amounts, which seems to bring more flavor overall.

 

[rickyrich]

Has anyone posted a recipe for DOUBLE OR TRIPLE NEIPA? It's become my life's mission to replicate these bad boys from Electric. Mostly all their offerings are 8.5-11% ABV

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrmGylQgmyo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn-Sqe2ga2S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

I absolutely cannot get enough. They are sooo purdy. Incredible pillowy mouthfeel and flavor. Has anyone tried using dextrose/lactose to bump them up? Or just upping the grain?

PLEASE HELP! Thanks in advance! Great info in this thread!!

 

[Loud Brewing]

Has anyone posted a recipe for DOUBLE OR TRIPLE NEIPA? It's become my life's mission to replicate these bad boys from Electric. Mostly all their offerings are 8.5-11% ABV

https://www.instagram.com/p/BrmGylQgmyo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn-Sqe2ga2S/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

I absolutely cannot get enough. They are sooo purdy. Incredible pillowy mouthfeel and flavor. Has anyone tried using dextrose/lactose to bump them up? Or just upping the grain?

PLEASE HELP! Thanks in advance! Great info in this thread!!

I absolutely love electric brewing and their hazys. I do my best to replicate their style, with the opaque low SRM appearance combined with the soft mouthfeel and higher abv. The cool thing is that they usually share the ingridients and process if you ask. Most of all their doubles/triples have a combination of dextrose and lactose to acheive this, as well as long whirlpool additions and lots of good quality hops.
Depending on your setup you can add more grain. I usually go 16-17 lbs of grain total and a pound of dextrose and a pound of lactose with 10min left in boil to get me around 9-10% abv.
I also would avoid using any darker malts to get that straw yellow color. I prefer pilsner malt or domestic 2row.
For these bigger sweeter beers adjust your IBUs accordingly and you will be very close to what they are producing.
Here is my "Willy Mays Haze" 9.5abv with lactose and dextrose.

Hit me up if you go to a can release and we can trade a couple homebrews, cheers!

 

[rickyrich]

I absolutely love electric brewing and their hazys. I do my best to replicate their style, with the opaque low SRM appearance combined with the soft mouthfeel and higher abv. The cool thing is that they usually share the ingridients and process if you ask. Most of all their doubles/triples have a combination of dextrose and lactose to acheive this, as well as long whirlpool additions and lots of good quality hops.
Depending on your setup you can add more grain. I usually go 16-17 lbs of grain total and a pound of dextrose and a pound of lactose with 10min left in boil to get me around 9-10% abv.
I also would avoid using any darker malts to get that straw yellow color. I prefer pilsner malt or domestic 2row.
For these bigger sweeter beers adjust your IBUs accordingly and you will be very close to what they are producing.
Here is my "Willy Mays Haze" 9.5abv with lactose and dextrose.
View attachment 614812
Hit me up if you go to a can release and we can trade a couple homebrews, cheers!

You are the friggin man Loud! That is exactly what I had in my recipe for my first my first crack. 1# of each of those. I wonder what their Grain Bill is. It doesn't seem like they ever change it. Just different hops. I love how light the appearance is in their beers. Was thinking of just splitting Pils and 2 Row adding white wheat/flaked barley/oats.

What are you mashing at? Salt additions? Someone told me they add a ton of salt. I'll def hit you up. I go all the time. I live 15-20 mins away from them.

Great looking beer BTW!

Thanks again!!

 

[LumberZach]

Most of all their doubles/triples have a combination of dextrose and lactose to acheive this

Isn't that a bit counteractive? Dextrose dries the beer out, and the lactose sweetens it up and adds some body.

 

[Loud Brewing]

Isn't that a bit counteractive? Dextrose dries the beer out, and the lactose sweetens it up and adds some body.

The dextrose gives that bump in gravity and the lactose is creamy mouthfeel with a touch of sweetness. Have you ever tasted straight lactose, it's not as sweet as one would think.

 

[Loud Brewing]

You are the friggin man Loud! That is exactly what I had in my recipe for my first my first crack. 1# of each of those. I wonder what their Grain Bill is. It doesn't seem like they ever change it. Just different hops. I love how light the appearance is in their beers. Was thinking of just splitting Pils and 2 Row adding white wheat/flaked barley/oats.

What are you mashing at? Salt additions? Someone told me they add a ton of salt. I'll def hit you up. I go all the time. I live 15-20 mins away from them.

Great looking beer BTW!

Thanks again!!

I have never talked to him about his water profile but I would assume it's something like 1 part sulfate to 2 parts chloride and some Epsom to round it out. I usually do 1tsp sulfate, 2tsp chloride and 1tsp Epsom for a 5 gal batch. I also use RO water and lactic acid to control the ph.
Oh and I usually mash 150-155.
Thanks for the compliment, I have had alot of help from this forum and feel like I am making some good progress with this style. Good luck!

 

[LumberZach]

The dextrose gives that bump in gravity and the lactose is creamy mouthfeel with a touch of sweetness. Have you ever tasted straight lactose, it's not as sweet as one would think.

I understand the dextrose bumps gravity, but adding lactose technically would bump the gravity back up.

 

[Loud Brewing]

I understand the dextrose bumps gravity, but adding lactose technically would bump the gravity back up.

Lactose is non fermentable but I believe it will still increase gravity a bit.

 

[LumberZach]

Lactose is non fermentable but I believe it will still increase gravity a bit.

It's totally unfermentable.

 

[Loud Brewing]

If you read the description on this recent release they state dextrose and lactose for the above mentioned reasons. It was such a great beer too, wish I bought more

 

[craftbrewguru]

Electric is killing it, do you guys know the yeast strain they use in these beers?

 

[leesmith]

https://www.facebook.com/125749597475888/posts/2390849207632571?sfns=mo

 

[rickyrich]

Electric is killing it, do you guys know the yeast strain they use in these beers?

I would like to know this too!

 

[drez77]

Electric is killing it, do you guys know the yeast strain they use in these beers?

Old recipe but at least gives an idea on what they used before.

 

[Hannabrew]

mmmm King Arthur flour...

 

[drez77]

mmmm King Arthur flour...

That was the original reason I saved the screenshot

 

[Ghostnuke]

Oh, well maybe swap in some Azacca this time or next and see what you think? For my latest NEIPA, I kept the Citra and Mosaic, but used Simcoe instead of Galaxy.

Cool on the dry hop plan. Lots of people are skipping the biotrans addition on Day 1-2. I'm personally still doing it, then another a few days before bottling. At the very least, it breaks up the hop addition amounts, which seems to bring more flavor overall.

How about a switch to Azacca, Mosaic, and Mandarina Bavaria? Anyone?