Been asked on here a few times, but the thread is long. I use the brew hardware trub filter with 200 micron screen, works well. I can look up my thread on it if you want.For those of you doing closed transfers, what are you using(if anything) for filters to avoid clogging? After reading about clogging issues, I'm hesitant to attempt a closed transfer, but would really like to with this beer
The best method I have found is do all dry hopping in primary and then transfer out through an line strainer - never had it clog. I am using a decently large size as I just trying to get the hop particulate out between the primary and keg.
This allows you to remove all other screens / filters from the transfer and I have used it 5 times without clogs. Before that I was running into a lot of issues transferring.
https://www.vacmotion.com/Products/Main_Inlinestrainers.aspx
Keeps us posted - I have a pound of Idaho 7 i just got recently was thinking about using it and Citra together in an NEIPA.
I'd like to do something like this as a filter: http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/
Which size mesh are you using?
How about drilling a hole in the bottom of a stainless steel dry hopper, installing a silicone grommet , and putting the racking cane into it? I'd imagine that with so much surface area on a decent sized one, it would be less susceptible to clogging compared to other options
Some of the SS dry-hoppers available with a screw on lid can use the small-mouth white plastic lids available for mason jars, that way you don't have to permanently alter the dry-hopper. Undersize the hole for the grommet to ensure a tight fit around the diptube since they are a bit smaller than a racking cane. Also the white plastic lids are a little brittle so drill them from the underside with the flat part against a piece of wood.
Some of the SS dry-hoppers available with a screw on lid can use the small-mouth white plastic lids available for mason jars, that way you don't have to permanently alter the dry-hopper. Undersize the hole for the grommet to ensure a tight fit around the diptube since they are a bit smaller than a racking cane. Also the white plastic lids are a little brittle so drill them from the underside with the flat part against a piece of wood.
My question to this would be; does it affect the taste of the beer? Vitamin C isn't necessarily flavorless. I doubt anyone would notice 1 tsp in 5 gallons but I would like to see the difference between a beer with and without.Also, a commenter on brulosophys Facebook page said he out 1 tsp of ascorbic acid in his keg to stave off staling caused by oxidation. Said his ne IPAs have lasted longer that way.
"....Make sure to purge the keg of pressure before taking the post off to check though - otherwise you will get an IPA money shot."
There have been several references to "Dialed In" on this thread recently --- what do you know Beer & Brewing Magazine posts the homebrew recipe last week: https://beerandbrewing.com/homebrew-recipe-trilliums-dialed-in-ipa-with-wine-grape-must/
JC if you are lurking could you please bless us with a comment on the premise that Mike / Scott have made about using only less expensive hops (aka CTZ) and saving the glamour hops for dryhop only?
https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2018/02/sapwood-cellars-cheater-hops-ne-dipa.html
There have been several references to "Dialed In" on this thread recently --- what do you know Beer & Brewing Magazine posts the homebrew recipe last week: https://beerandbrewing.com/homebrew-recipe-trilliums-dialed-in-ipa-with-wine-grape-must/
JC if you are lurking could you please bless us with a comment on the premise that Mike / Scott have made about using only less expensive hops (aka CTZ) and saving the glamour hops for dryhop only?
https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2018/02/sapwood-cellars-cheater-hops-ne-dipa.html
Hi all, long-time lurker first-time poster. I also was having oxidation issues with my kegged NEIPAs.
Assuming I *have* to cold crash, I was thinking of the following approach:
Would love to hear thoughts/feedback on this. I added the keg priming step because I've seen my bottles have better results than kegs (of the same batch). The thought is that priming could "take care of" any oxygen I might be introducing (possibly during crashing?).
- When time to crash, push a small of amount of CO2 into the better bottle to slightly pressurize
- I'm testing this now in my refrigerator with a better bottle full of water
- Monitor over two days and add small amounts more if I see the bottle compressing
- After two days, close transfer to keg with priming sugar added (no keg hopping)
- Allow to prime at room temp over a week or so
- Chill and then add (or release) CO2 to serving pressure
Hi all, long-time lurker first-time poster. I also was having oxidation issues with my kegged NEIPAs.
Assuming I *have* to cold crash, I was thinking of the following approach:
Would love to hear thoughts/feedback on this. I added the keg priming step because I've seen my bottles have better results than kegs (of the same batch). The thought is that priming could "take care of" any oxygen I might be introducing (possibly during crashing?).
- When time to crash, push a small of amount of CO2 into the better bottle to slightly pressurize
- I'm testing this now in my refrigerator with a better bottle full of water
- Monitor over two days and add small amounts more if I see the bottle compressing
- After two days, close transfer to keg with priming sugar added (no keg hopping)
- Allow to prime at room temp over a week or so
- Chill and then add (or release) CO2 to serving pressure
I doubt adding co2 to the better bottle would do anything. How do you plan to add it?
i’d recommend just racking from primary to a purged keg with the poppets removed first. see how that goes
Appreciate the inputs. Upon further thought, I think I'll just skip the cold crash.
I think I'm gonna get one of the Utah Biodiesel filters that Scott Janish pitched and see if that effectively filters my dry hops during my closed transfer.
Anyone ever have issues using a filter screen during a closed transfer and having it clog up entirely? I could see a huge mess if too much pressure builds up in the better bottle!
Appreciate the inputs. Upon further thought, I think I'll just skip the cold crash.
I think I'm gonna get one of the Utah Biodiesel filters that Scott Janish pitched and see if that effectively filters my dry hops during my closed transfer.
Anyone ever have issues using a filter screen during a closed transfer and having it clog up entirely? I could see a huge mess if too much pressure builds up in the better bottle!
i've had the autosiphon screen let beer drain into it too slowly and then the siphon pulled all of the beer out of the inside of it before it could fill more. One workaround would have been to slow down the siphon speed I suppose.
Appreciate the inputs. Upon further thought, I think I'll just skip the cold crash.
I think I'm gonna get one of the Utah Biodiesel filters that Scott Janish pitched and see if that effectively filters my dry hops during my closed transfer.
Anyone ever have issues using a filter screen during a closed transfer and having it clog up entirely? I could see a huge mess if too much pressure builds up in the better bottle!
Yeah, I'll be pushing with CO2, so I can keep an eye on the gauge. Not really sure what I'll do if the pressure rises and the beer stops flowing, though.
I just ordered some cheap cascade hops on Amazon. I think I'll test this approach out in my bathtub with water and the same amount of dry hops (after they've been in there for a day or two). Don't want to lose precious small-batch beer if this is a dumb setup.