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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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what's the verdict?

I had a glass of the batch with the Farmhouse strain again tonight next to S04. It definitely has a nice fruity aroma going on. It does compliment the beer well and it is something that I will use again for sure.

I experimented with omitting the flaked grains on this batch to see if the haze would be more persistent and 5 weeks in + a few pours later, it is hazy as heck. I would actually prefer a bit less haze so I may fine with some gelatin. Part of the difference might be that I do not cold crash. I like getting it over to the keg while the yeast is still active so I can get some active scavenging. I think next time I will crash in the keg and take a pull from the faucet before I carbonate it.
IMG_5211.jpg
 
^funny that you mention desiring slightly less haze. I’ve had a heck of a time dialing in my beers ever since I started using a 14g conical. I’ve had no trouble brewing beers so hazy to the point you’d call them murky, similar in a appearance to yours. Even with sawed off dip tubes, the keg would be like the for it’s entirety.

Lately I’ve found that getting in a decent crash and dumping trub over the course of 2 days the resulting beer is simply hazy and MUCH better in flavor. Way cleaner and that results in a much juicier beer to me.
 
I had a glass of the batch with the Farmhouse strain again tonight next to S04. It definitely has a nice fruity aroma going on. It does compliment the beer well and it is something that I will use again for sure.

I experimented with omitting the flaked grains on this batch to see if the haze would be more persistent and 5 weeks in + a few pours later, it is hazy as heck. I would actually prefer a bit less haze so I may fine with some gelatin. Part of the difference might be that I do not cold crash. I like getting it over to the keg while the yeast is still active so I can get some active scavenging. I think next time I will crash in the keg and take a pull from the faucet before I carbonate it. View attachment 550641

thanks for the update. i used to get the murky beers. i think it was from not using whirfloc. bow they start murky and slowly turn to just hazy, perfect
 
Hey guys, i have been working on a Sculpin clone and i would like your opinion on something NEIPA related.

What do you think would happen if i move the Sculpin dry hop addition to day 2? Would it create a Hazy NEIPA Sculpin? LOL

I may try that because like Braufessor said, dryhopping early in the process helps reduce dyacetil and all, just not sure what it will do with a beer that is supposed to be a Sculpin clone.
 
Hey guys, i have been working on a Sculpin clone and i would like your opinion on something NEIPA related.

What do you think would happen if i move the Sculpin dry hop addition to day 2? Would it create a Hazy NEIPA Sculpin? LOL

I may try that because like Braufessor said, dryhopping early in the process helps reduce dyacetil and all, just not sure what it will do with a beer that is supposed to be a Sculpin clone.
Is the goal to make it exactly like sculpin or were you using it as a base to build a IPA that tastes to what you like?

Also DH will cause some haze, but if your yeast and grain bill aren't common to the style then you'll likely get a unfiltered look more along the lines of Stones unfiltered line of beers.
 
Hey guys, i have been working on a Sculpin clone and i would like your opinion on something NEIPA related.

What do you think would happen if i move the Sculpin dry hop addition to day 2? Would it create a Hazy NEIPA Sculpin? LOL

I may try that because like Braufessor said, dryhopping early in the process helps reduce dyacetil and all, just not sure what it will do with a beer that is supposed to be a Sculpin clone.
IN my experience, dry hopping early (in large amounts) will increase the haziness of an IPA. That being said, the other factor contributing is the yeast...... a 1056 or 007 is going to result in a less hazy beer than the same beer with 1318 or Conan. 1272 I find to be somewhere in the middle.
 
Is the goal to make it exactly like sculpin or were you using it as a base to build a IPA that tastes to what you like?

Also DH will cause some haze, but if your yeast and grain bill aren't common to the style then you'll likely get a unfiltered look more along the lines of Stones unfiltered line of beers.

Well the initial goal is to make it exactly like Sculpin but i know my limitations and i will probably never get to that point, and because if that i want to make a beer that has Sculpin notes and make it as best as i can. Since i am making some really really good NEIPAs i thought i can use some of the stuff i learned for this style to improve this clone attempt
 
Well the initial goal is to make it exactly like Sculpin but i know my limitations and i will probably never get to that point, and because if that i want to make a beer that has Sculpin notes and make it as best as i can. Since i am making some really really good NEIPAs i thought i can use some of the stuff i learned for this style to improve this clone attempt

That's what I have been doing as well. I used whirlfloc and gelatin on a batch I did a few months ago. It was dry hopped on days 3 and 6. The yeast was US-05 and it dropped really clear. It happened to be ready in time for a contest so I entered it and it received comments from both judges for having "brilliant clarity".
 
I'd like to produce the exact same beer, but RED in appearance (why not?). Is there a way to do this without affecting the flavor? Steeping grains?
 
Something in that range of red would be cool, although it could be more, or less. Beetroot juice would impact the taste, no? Is it possible to just *add* the color by steeping without adding the characteristic red caramel sweetness?
 
Beetroot is pretty widely used as a colouring in things that are far less flavoursome than a NEIPA, particularly since they banned all the colourings that make kiddies go psycho (in Europe at least). I think the general idea is that it is so intense that a little goes a long way. I've never added it to beer but I'd guess we're talking as little as a few drops per gallon, depending how intense a colour you want.

The only way to tell is to make up two unhopped starters, add beetroot to one until you get the "right" colour, then add yeast and see whether you can tell the difference on a blind tasting once it's fermented out.
 
I'd like to produce the exact same beer, but RED in appearance (why not?). Is there a way to do this without affecting the flavor? Steeping grains?
Maybe CaraRED?. Not sure what red you are going for, but I used about 5% in a NEIPA and it gave it a deep orange glow.
 
*Red X malt - have not used it, but know others claim it is good for this.
*Sinamar
*Small amounts of Roast Barley (2 ounces) will get you in that direction without flavor...... if you need more, maybe some dehusked carafa to supplement.
 
So what is the typical length expected of this style to stay in primary before kegging? How short is to short where off flavors become noticeable? When left to long can you start to lose anything from the dry hops. New to this style. Thanks.
 
So what is the typical length expected of this style to stay in primary before kegging? How short is to short where off flavors become noticeable? When left to long can you start to lose anything from the dry hops. New to this style. Thanks.
For me - I like one dry hop on day 2-3 and I keg it on day 12-14. Different people have different systems and methods - but, that is what works best for me.
 
So what is the typical length expected of this style to stay in primary before kegging? How short is to short where off flavors become noticeable? When left to long can you start to lose anything from the dry hops. New to this style. Thanks.

For me - I like one dry hop on day 2-3 and I keg it on day 12-14. Different people have different systems and methods - but, that is what works best for me.

Brau is right, depends on your system, methods and beer I’d say. A lower OG can be turned quickly while a higher OG should take a little more time for fermentation and clean up.

My beers’ OG are usually 1.050-1.064. I overpitch slightly (to assure healthy ferment), ferment cooler and keg in seven days. Will dry hop on day 3 or 4. I’ll use one big charge in the primary and will add some to the keg.
 
Going to be brewing this on Tuesday. Question I have is on water treatment.
Went to a local brewery yesterday and talked to the owner/brewer as they had a NEIPA on tap. He said they go 4:1 Chloride to sulfate. Anyone did this and what was the outcome?
I was set to go with what Brau said in post 1418 but now curious to know if I should stay as planned or make an adjustment.
 
Are you leaving you keg dry hop in for only two days like Brau as well?

No, I leave mine in for the duration of the keg but have it in a sack, tied to the keg and barely in the beer. So the keg hops might only be in contact for four days to a week.
 
Going to be brewing this on Tuesday. Question I have is on water treatment.
Went to a local brewery yesterday and talked to the owner/brewer as they had a NEIPA on tap. He said they go 4:1 Chloride to sulfate. Anyone did this and what was the outcome?
I was set to go with what Brau said in post 1418 but now curious to know if I should stay as planned or make an adjustment.

Ratios are really meaningless. 40:10 and100:25 and 400:100 are all 4:1...... they would give you a very different beer.

I go 125:125 all the time anymore. If you put both numbers, in any combination, between 75-150 it will make a good beer. You can play with it from there for personal preferences.
 
I mashed at 66°C/151°F, is that temperature too high for this style?
Drop it to 146 or so and it will dry out a bit more. You are getting some alpha amylase at 151 making some sugars that the yeast can't digest. You can also do a two step mash, which is what I generally do because I like a little residual sweetness in an IPA. Cheers!
 
Drop it to 146 or so and it will dry out a bit more. You are getting some alpha amylase at 151 making some sugars that the yeast can't digest. You can also do a two step mash, which is what I generally do because I like a little residual sweetness in an IPA. Cheers!
Thanks. I've just tried my second version of this and I'm very happy with how it's turned out. Reckon I'll be keeping it in the same temperature range for future brews, maybe just up the grain bill to boot the ABV as this only came in around 5.5%. I like my ipa's in the mid to upper 6%.

I notice you're preparing a Westy 12 clone. Hope to be doing this over the next few days myself, just growing up my yeast at present. Are you using CSI's recipe?
 
Hey All,

I have 4oz each of Citra, Mosaic, and Galaxy and am planning out my hopping schedule. I'm going to use .3oz of the Mosaic at 60min, and am going to split the rest between a flameout, whirlpool, and two dry hops. I was planning on doing basically 1:1:1 (except for the .3oz of mosaic at 60min) for each, but some comment that too much galaxy can be overpowering so I might want to scale back the galaxy for the dry hop additions.

Any recommendation for how to use these hops? I don't have to use them all, and I can also get more of them for the dry hops if needed.

This will be my second time brewing this recipe (or similar to it) but last time I didn't use any mosaic and did a 2:1 citral-galaxy blend. I'm also targeting a 1:2 Sulfate:Chloride ratio in the 75:150 range.

Thanks!

John
 
Hey All,

Mosaic at 60min, and am going to split the rest between a flameout, whirlpool, and two dry hops. I was planning on doing basically 1:1:1 (except for the .3oz of mosaic at 60min) for each, but some comment that too much galaxy can be overpowering so I might want to scale back the galaxy for the dry hop additions.

This may sound crazy, but after a few more times using Galaxy, I've found that it can influence a beer more when less is added. That sounds crazy I know. I've added it as 1/3 of the hops and it really seemed to change the resulting beer (as compared to a side by side version using CTZ as the last 1/3 of the hops.) Then, I finally got up the guts to make a 100% Galaxy beer, and it is absolutely delicious. I'd highly recommend it. I like it better than using Galaxy as a part of the crowd it seems!

I took notes on who liked my citra-mosaic-galaxy vs citra-mosaic-ctz split batch, and it was pretty down the middle. It's just a personal preference, and any way you go will turn out great. I do really love the equal parts of each approach at all phases. I think I like Galaxy as a single hop more than Mosaic, though it is really close, and Citra is last for me as a single hop of the three. Anyway, just some ramblings...
 
Tried some Huell Melon with this style. Very much like prescribed, melon-like and some strawberry. Supplemented with 25% Citra. Tasty beer but Huell Melon doesn’t have the punch that the big name hops have. If you give Huell Melon a try just make sure to put a bunch in the beer! Fun to give it a try.

3.25 gallon batch size
1.062 OG
52% 2 Row
25% White Wheat
16% Maris Otter
4% Flaked Oat
3% Honey Malt

2 oz Huell Melon in WP
4 oz Huell Melon DH 1
2 oz Citra DH Keg

1318 yeast

IMG_7110.jpg
 
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