New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[WiscoBrewer]

I'm not sure what you mean by "if this is from the brewer".



FWIW, this beer scored a 40, won its category and went on to win BOS which includes a brew session at Urban Chestnut. It was going to be on their new pilot system but that's not quite operational yet so it looks like we will be doing a 15-20 BBL batch which will be served in their tasting room hopefully in time for the holidays.

I mistakenly thought it was a clone attempt or a recipe from the actual brewer.

Congratulations, I won something similar here. 1st in IPA, averaged 39.5, and People's Choice among all categories. Brewing it at Working Draft Beer Company once they open in December.

 

[TimmyWit]

Congratulations, I won something similar here. 1st in IPA, averaged 39.5, and People's Choice among all categories. Brewing it at Working Draft Beer Company once they open in December.

Awesome! Congrats to you as well! Should be a great time!

no, it wasn't a clone or recipe from any brewer. Just doing small tweaks each time I brew it with much thanks going out to this thread. I swear by the pressure transfer technique @Braufessor posted. That's the best tool I have put in my bag since I learned how to care for the yeasties. I also really like that OYL-057 yeast. The aroma is unlike anything I have ever got from any strain before.

 

[WiscoBrewer]

Awesome! Congrats to you as well! Should be a great time!

no, it wasn't a clone or recipe from any brewer. Just doing small tweaks each time I brew it with much thanks going out to this thread. I swear by the pressure transfer technique @Braufessor posted. That's the best tool I have put in my bag since I learned how to care for the yeasties. I also really like that OYL-057 yeast. The aroma is unlike anything I have ever got from any strain before.

I've used the OYL-057 once and it was the weirdest thing, it never created a krausen for me but fermented out none the less. I didn't get the "mango" in mine but that could have been from the weird ferment I had. The cool thing about that yeast is it supposedly doesn't change its profile throughout its temp range, which is pretty wide. My go to is still WLP007.

 

[TimmyWit]

I've used the OYL-057 once and it was the weirdest thing, it never created a krausen for me but fermented out none the less. I didn't get the "mango" in mine but that could have been from the weird ferment I had. The cool thing about that yeast is it supposedly doesn't change its profile throughout its temp range, which is pretty wide. My go to is still WLP007.

Quite a few pages back on this thread, I put that temp spread to the test and it was legit! I split a batch with 5G fermented at 67F and 5G fermented at 90F. To me, there were no perceivable differences.

I would have never known that fruitiness was coming from the yeast. I have used it quite a bit and I always thought that fruitiness was coming from the Galaxy hops. With this batch, I omitted the Galaxy and since it was split 3 ways with different strains, I was able to pinpoint that the aroma is indeed coming from the yeast. Everyone who tried all 3 batches picked this one as the favorite.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

I would have never known that fruitiness was coming from the yeast. I have used it quite a bit and I always thought that fruitiness was coming from the Galaxy hops. With this batch, I omitted the Galaxy and since it was split 3 ways with different strains, I was able to pinpoint that the aroma is indeed coming from the yeast. Everyone who tried all 3 batches picked this one as the favorite.

Would you say that this yeast gives out a Tree House Julius level of fruitiness?

 

[TimmyWit]

Would you say that this yeast gives out a Tree House Julius level of fruitiness?

Unfortunately I have never had Julius. All I can say is that it certainly kicks the fruitiness up a notch and I have never had a commercial beer quite like what this yeast delivers.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

I checked with my three LHBS and none of them carry OYL-057. Is it something that can be shipped via the mail and arrive alive and well?

 

[TimmyWit]

I checked with my three LHBS and none of them carry OYL-057. Is it something that can be shipped via the mail and arrive alive and well?

That's what I do. I get it from ritebrew.com. They have good prices and good shipping. They use a company called speedee. Looks like you're in the same zone as me and they guarantee yeast health with 2-day shipping. I always get my yeast this way and have never had any issues.

 

[k-daddy]

Just got a batch on tap that is really good. 1418 recipe. 1318 yeast. Hops =
2 x 6 ounce addtion.

1x 6 ounces in kettle after flame out.
1x6 ounce addition at day two of fermentation

3:Citra
1: Centennial
1: Simcoe
1: Mosaic

So is it my understanding that you add the 60 min (.75oz Warrior) addition and then only the two 6oz. additions above? Regarding the FO addition, what is your process for time, temp and when you start your chiller? Does your second 6 oz. addition sit in the primary (12 days) from day 2 of fermentation until day 14? I've brewed 2 batches from this recipe and have really enjoyed them both. This mod would certainly save a couple of steps and it seems like you are pleased with the results so I'm interested in the process. Cheers!

 

[jammin]

I'm not sure what you mean by "if this is from the brewer".

FWIW, this beer scored a 40, won its category and went on to win BOS which includes a brew session at Urban Chestnut. It was going to be on their new pilot system but that's not quite operational yet so it looks like we will be doing a 15-20 BBL batch which will be served in their tasting room hopefully in time for the holidays.

Urban Chestnut doesn’t seem to brew IPA’s hardly at judging by their Untappd profile. Id have a hard time getting excited about donating my recipe and time to a place like that. Maybe you can help them step their game up

 

[grassfeeder]

Urban Chestnut doesn’t seem to brew IPA’s hardly at judging by their Untappd profile. Id have a hard time getting excited about donating my recipe and time to a place like that. Maybe you can help them step their game up

this is usually the case with some brew competitions unless its a real big competition most of the breweries are just, eh.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

So is it my understanding that you add the 60 min (.75oz Warrior) addition and then only the two 6oz. additions above? Regarding the FO addition, what is your process for time, temp and when you start your chiller? Does your second 6 oz. addition sit in the primary (12 days) from day 2 of fermentation until day 14? I've brewed 2 batches from this recipe and have really enjoyed them both. This mod would certainly save a couple of steps and it seems like you are pleased with the results so I'm interested in the process. Cheers!

I would like to know this as well...

 

[centrical]

Just got a batch on tap that is really good. 1418 recipe. 1318 yeast. Hops =
2 x 6 ounce addtion.

1x 6 ounces in kettle after flame out.
1x6 ounce addition at day two of fermentation

3:Citra
1: Centennial
1: Simcoe
1: Mosaic

Brau,

I see you are using 1318 rather than your usual 1272 yeast for this. Are you using 1318 these days? What's your thoughts on it?

 

[TimmyWit]

Urban Chestnut doesn’t seem to brew IPA’s hardly at judging by their Untappd profile. Id have a hard time getting excited about donating my recipe and time to a place like that. Maybe you can help them step their game up

They have German roots and with that a focus on German styles. They do branch out once in a while and recently they opened their third location in St Louis called the URB (Urban Research Brewery) so they will likely continue to expand their offerings.

As for the recipes, there is nothing really secretive about them. I'm sure they would have no problem crafting a fine IPA on their own. Regarding my time, I can't think of anything I'd rather do for a day. After all, I'm here because I love to brew.

 

[Braufessor]

Brau,

I see you are using 1318 rather than your usual 1272 yeast for this. Are you using 1318 these days? What's your thoughts on it?

I have been using 1318 recently and liking the results. Honestly, 1272, 1318, conan...... I like all 3. Ultimately my choice of yeast has a lot to do with things I want to brew at the time. I brewed a British Mild and a British Bitter a while back - I used 1318 for them and harvested the yeast. Generally, I brew 20 beers or so out of a single pack of yeast...... So, once I used the 1318 for that, I run it through a bunch of beers.

If I brewed an Amber ale and used 1272...... I would run that through 20 beers and be just as happy with them.

I have been pretty happy with these recent 1318 batches. I have been fermenting them at 64-66 for the first 2-3 days. Adding 6 ounces of dry hop on day 2. Moving them to 68-70 degrees (ambient) for the duration of fermentation after that.

The thing I sometimes don't like about 1318 is that from time to time I have gotten kind of a "tart" ester/flavor off of it. Really have not experienced that with what I have been doing recently though, and have thought the beers came out great.

Also - no blow off for the most part on recent 1318 batches with the temps held down just a little bit.

 

[Braufessor]

So is it my understanding that you add the 60 min (.75oz Warrior) addition and then only the two 6oz. additions above? Regarding the FO addition, what is your process for time, temp and when you start your chiller? Does your second 6 oz. addition sit in the primary (12 days) from day 2 of fermentation until day 14? I've brewed 2 batches from this recipe and have really enjoyed them both. This mod would certainly save a couple of steps and it seems like you are pleased with the results so I'm interested in the process. Cheers!

Yes - last 6 months+ this has been my hopping schedule:

1st Addition:
.5-.75 ounces of Warrior at 60 minutes

2nd Addition:
6 ounces at Flameout..... I shut off flame, get chiller going, swirl up wort some and probably drop hops in around 150-170 range.... not precise at all on that. I shut off chiller for 10 minutes maybe. Then, I get chiller going again and swirl up wort every 5 minutes or so while it chills.

3rd Addition:
6 ounces on Day 2 of fermentation. Those hops go in loose and stay in until I keg the beer on day 12-14 range (depending on schedule/convenience). I do move the fermenter upstairs where it is a bit warmer on day 3-4. I move the fermenter back downstairs onto a work bench in my brew room 2 days before kegging. I think this movement helps knock the hops out of suspension and helps them to settle out.

This route definitely is less effort, less time, etc. And, I have really noticed ZERO difference in the finished product. I would say this method has been producing NE IPA's that are as good as any I have made.

 

[Braufessor]

Do you still do a hop stand/whirlpool?

see post 5115/5116

 

[Braufessor]

Have you experimented with smaller flameout/whirlpool additions?

Not really.... although, judging from a lot of the posts, it seems I am using less hops than a lot of people are.

It would be worth trying..... Honestly, it would not surprise me at all if 2 5 ounce additions were indistinguishable from 2 6 ounce additions...... or, a 3 ounce whirlpool and keep a 6 ounce dry hop.

 

[MMJfan]

Not really.... although, judging from a lot of the posts, it seems I am using less hops than a lot of people are.

It would be worth trying..... Honestly, it would not surprise me at all if 2 5 ounce additions were indistinguishable from 2 6 ounce additions...... or, a 3 ounce whirlpool and keep a 6 ounce dry hop.

I would agree that I wouldn't think two 5 oz additions would make much of a difference between two 6 oz additions.

However, I do three 5 oz additions of a blend of Citra, Mosaic and Amarillo (2:2:1). I do 5 oz at flameout, 5 oz hopstand when the wort cools to somewhere between 170F-180F and then another 5 oz dryhop at day 4 into fermentation. I just bottled my 2nd batch and this is one outstanding beer!!! It's going to be tough to keep this out of my permanent rotation!

I wonder what the difference would be between skipping the hopstand additions? I will say that when I took a sample when I dry hopped, I was amazed at how fruity the beer already was w/o the dry hop!

 

[MMJfan]

As for the recipes, there is nothing really secretive about them. I'm sure they would have no problem crafting a fine IPA on their own. Regarding my time, I can't think of anything I'd rather do for a day. After all, I'm here because I love to brew.

Totally agree with you! If I had the chance to go brew one of my recipes on professional equipment, I would jump at the chance! The experience alone would make it worth it.

Platform Brewery in Cleveland runs competitions for homebrewers to win a chance to brew their beers on a small 3 barrel system they use for experimenting and small batch beers and I would love to have the chance to win that one day!!!

 

[TomRep]

Has anyone who used cryo hops is n these ever noticed a chalky/dryness in the back of your throat when drinking the finished product? Almost like a slight burn or something. I used 3 ounces of cryo in my last batch (2.5 Oz in the whirlpool and a half ounce in dry hops) and I noticed this. It was my fourth NEIPA batch and the first time using cryo and this is the first I noticed this. I thought it may have been from the beer being young (although I drink them all at the same age), but the same feeling/taste was there until the very last pour. I'm brewing a batch either today or tomorrow and am contemplating using them again for this reason.
Tom

I posted this several pages ago and had a few replies that thought this was from the yeast. I have come to my own conclusion that it is indeed from the cryo hops. I brewed the exact same recipe, one with cryo and one with pellets. The cryo version had this dryness/chalky-ness. The pellet version had the bite for the first pour (one day on gas, not fully carbed) and was completely gone after that. I will note, I get these on tap fast. Typically within 7-10 days. I have no doubt this is more than likely the cause, but if I can brew with pellets and keep that schedule with no problems, it's obvious which I'm going to use. I have about 15 ounces of cryo hops in my freezer yet. I'm planning to make a big, more malty, west coast double IPA and use some of them for that and see if with some aging I can notice anything.
Tom

 

[dukedevil0]

Yes - last 6 months+ this has been my hopping schedule:

1st Addition:
.5-.75 ounces of Warrior at 60 minutes

2nd Addition:
6 ounces at Flameout..... I shut off flame, get chiller going, swirl up wort some and probably drop hops in around 150-170 range.... not precise at all on that. I shut off chiller for 10 minutes maybe. Then, I get chiller going again and swirl up wort every 5 minutes or so while it chills.

3rd Addition:
6 ounces on Day 2 of fermentation. Those hops go in loose and stay in until I keg the beer on day 12-14 range (depending on schedule/convenience). I do move the fermenter upstairs where it is a bit warmer on day 3-4. I move the fermenter back downstairs onto a work bench in my brew room 2 days before kegging. I think this movement helps knock the hops out of suspension and helps them to settle out.

This route definitely is less effort, less time, etc. And, I have really noticed ZERO difference in the finished product. I would say this method has been producing NE IPA's that are as good as any I have made.

Now try a shorter boil to cut even more time!

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Urban Chestnut doesn’t seem to brew IPA’s hardly at judging by their Untappd profile. Id have a hard time getting excited about donating my recipe and time to a place like that. Maybe you can help them step their game up

Are you seriously saying that a brewery that doesn't make IPAs is not at the top of its game? Have Westvleteren, Weihenstephaner and Timothy Taylor been told?

If anything, it works the other way. I'm sure their marketing department are screaming at them to make an IPA. The fact that they appear to be thriving without pandering to the largest segment of the US craft market suggests that they're pretty damn good at what they do, and I'd be more excited to brew with someone like that than just another producer of "throw in more Citra" me-too IPAs.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Yes - last 6 months+ this has been my hopping schedule:

1st Addition:
.5-.75 ounces of Warrior at 60 minutes

2nd Addition:
6 ounces at Flameout..... I shut off flame, get chiller going, swirl up wort some and probably drop hops in around 150-170 range.... not precise at all on that. I shut off chiller for 10 minutes maybe. Then, I get chiller going again and swirl up wort every 5 minutes or so while it chills.

3rd Addition:
6 ounces on Day 2 of fermentation. Those hops go in loose and stay in until I keg the beer on day 12-14 range (depending on schedule/convenience). I do move the fermenter upstairs where it is a bit warmer on day 3-4. I move the fermenter back downstairs onto a work bench in my brew room 2 days before kegging. I think this movement helps knock the hops out of suspension and helps them to settle out.

This route definitely is less effort, less time, etc. And, I have really noticed ZERO difference in the finished product. I would say this method has been producing NE IPA's that are as good as any I have made.

Gonna try your technique instead of 3oz at flameout, 3oz at 170, dryhop 3oz at day 2 and 3oz at day 10.

This is gonna confirm that 10-12 days of dry hoping doesn't make a difference from a 2 step dry hoping... That would be very nice!

Using WLP644 in less than 2 weeks

 

[jammin]

Are you seriously saying that a brewery that doesn't make IPAs is not at the top of its game? Have Westvleteren, Weihenstephaner and Timothy Taylor been told?

If anything, it works the other way. I'm sure their marketing department are screaming at them to make an IPA. The fact that they appear to be thriving without pandering to the largest segment of the US craft market suggests that they're pretty damn good at what they do, and I'd be more excited to brew with someone like that than just another producer of "throw in more Citra" me-too IPAs.

you sound like a real drama queen... made up a whole paragraph on what i DIDNT say.

and if all there is to these IPAs is just "throwing in more Citra"; in your words, "has the rest of HBT been told?" we can just shut down all these threads that clutter the forum...

 

[Hannabrew]

Totally agree with you! If I had the chance to go brew one of my recipes on professional equipment, I would jump at the chance! The experience alone would make it worth it.

Platform Brewery in Cleveland runs competitions for homebrewers to win a chance to brew their beers on a small 3 barrel system they use for experimenting and small batch beers and I would love to have the chance to win that one day!!!

I won something similar and get to brew on Maplewood's pilot system. While I'm excited about working with the brewers etc, I honestly think my system might be better than what I saw of their pilot ;-). Maybe I'm being naive though.

 

[TimmyWit]

I won something similar and get to brew on Maplewood's pilot system. While I'm excited about working with the brewers etc, I honestly think my system might be better than what I saw of their pilot ;-). Maybe I'm being naive though.

Congrats! We started getting Maplewood out here a few months ago. They are putting out some awesome stuff!

 

[centrical]

The thing I sometimes don't like about 1318 is that from time to time I have gotten kind of a "tart" ester/flavor off of it. Really have not experienced that with what I have been doing recently though, and have thought the beers came out great.

What you describe as a "tart" flavor - could it be the "hop burn" flavor that I and others have experienced?

I used to believe this was a yeast burn - but I am pretty sure it's more due to hops in suspension. I have found that you can filter it out with gelatin, or give it a few days of cold crash to clear it out.
I now taste samples as I cold crash and only keg once it's clear.

 

[nealjp]

Hi,
I have to thank the Braufesser for this awesome recipe. It's one of the most successful beers I've brewed. Yes, bottling caused a little oxidation as the NEIPA aged but it was still drinkable. I think I'll try a beer gun this time. The beer was also great while young though it ended a little more bitter than my taste. I'm thinking that the earliest hops will be in the whirlpool and then dry-hopped. Or a smaller 11g FHW?

Anyway, my last malt bill used a variation of the bill on page 1418. I couldn't get Rahr 2 Row, nor Golden Promise, nor Honey Malt.

2500.00 g Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 40.6 %
2500.00 g Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 2 40.6 %
450.00 g Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 7.3 %
250.00 g White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 4 4.1 %
230.00 g Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 5 3.7 %
115.00 g Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 6 1.9 %
115.00 g Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) Grain 7 1.9 %
6160.00g

I made a Vienna Hefe recently with 63% Wheat Malt, 27% Vienna, and Wyeast #3942. I loved the bready, biscuity, full body of that beer.

Two completely different styles of course but I'd like some of those Vienna characters in my next batch (without overpowering the beer and hops). I've only used Vienna once.

What do you think about switching Maris 2.5kg for Vienna 2.5kg, removing the Flaked Wheat (115g) and increasing the White Wheat from 250g to 365g, and removing the Melaniodan (redistribute to Vienna or Pale Malt? Or just remove). A malt bill like below:

2500.00 g Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 40.6 %
2500.00 g Vienna Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 2 40.6 %
450.00 g Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM) Grain 3 7.3 %
365.00 g White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 4 4.1 %
230.00 g Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 5 3.7 %
6045.00g

Thanks for any input!

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I've just been reading about weissbier techniques and was wondering if anyone was applying them to NEIPAs to bump up the ester/fruit-iness? I've done a search on this thread and not found any mention of a maltase rest - between mashing and boiling, cool down to 45C/113F for 30-40 minutes and add 20% of the grain bill as DME to provide active maltase enzyme, which breaks down maltose to glucose which helps the ester-making enzymes and allows yeast to spend more happy time munching glucose which is when it produces ester precursors.

I'm also wondering whether adding leucine or isoleucine might help - they're amino acid precursors to the banana esters. You can get them from healthfood shops and bodybuilding websites, cost about half the price of hops so say 50g is about a quid's worth but doubles the amount of ester precursor over what's naturally in 5kg of grain.

It's a bit left-field, but it's another thing to put on the list to try.....