New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[IMXELITE]

I just kegged another batch and I have learned a few things. It was my first time using pellets without hop bags in boil and fermentation, learned the hard way it makes up a huge amount of trub loss. I put 6.2gal in my fermenter and only got 4.65gal into the keg. Also note I put 1500ml yeast starter in without decanting.

Everything was done in the primary. Maybe its just me and using slightly different hops (Columbus, citra, mosaic) but the hop presence seems much greater not using bags but the amount of trub loss I am fighting myself to see if it's worth it. My carboy is only 6.5 gal so it might be time to use a bigger fermenter for these ipa's that require 12 plus oz of hops.

 

[Braufessor]

Looking to brew batch #2 tomorrow.
BIAB
3.5 gal (3 gal in fermenter)
6 gal filtered water (machine at grocery)
Trying to get my water additions--use Bru n Water Pale Ale profile
Added when grains go in.
3 grams gypsum
1.5 gram Epsom
4.2 grams calcium chloride
With these additions, this is what I get:
calcium: 139 target / 82 actual
magnesium: 18 target / 65 actual
sodium: 17.8 target / 7.2 actual
sulfate: 299 target / 100 actual
chloride: 51.4 target / 92.9 actual
bicarbonate: 95.5 target / 14.5 actual

Do I need to make any changes to these to these additions? I've messed around with different amounts but can never seem to get close on all categories.

I think that all looks fine as far as mineral additions. You should be good.

 

[Braufessor]

I just kegged another batch and I have learned a few things. It was my first time using pellets without hop bags in boil and fermentation, learned the hard way it makes up a huge amount of trub loss. I put 6.2gal in my fermenter and only got 4.65gal into the keg. Also note I put 1500ml yeast starter in without decanting.

Everything was done in the primary. Maybe its just me and using slightly different hops (Columbus, citra, mosaic) but the hop presence seems much greater not using bags but the amount of trub loss I am fighting myself to see if it's worth it. My carboy is only 6.5 gal so it might be time to use a bigger fermenter for these ipa's that require 12 plus oz of hops.

I have just gotten to the point where I fully expect to only end up 1-2 pints short in the serving keg with this beer.

 

[brewski09]

View attachment 368775 accidentally measured the hydrometer sample after I had mixed in the priming sugar (so not sure how to adjust it back down to where it actually finished. I take it maybe 1.010, SG was 1.068)

However, I think I overdid it on the dry hopping with this recipe. Sampled tastes very grassy, thick pine and only very slight citrus but hard to distinguish with the significant bite from the all the grass

Will this mellow out or subdue at all?

I think the priming sugar adds 0.003 SG

Maybe, maybe not. How long were the dryhops in cap tact with the finished beer?

 

[armenianbrewer]

3 gal batch.

First 1oz dry hopped at tail end of high active fermentation at day ~ 4, second 1oz dry hopped 3 days after that, then last 1oz dry hop for only 2 days. Bottled at day 13

So in summary FF for all dry hop additions for ~8, ~6, and ~2 days each.

Whirlpooled 1oz of FF for 15 min each at 180 and 140 degrees as well.

 

[Oceanbear1]

Brewed what was supposed to be a 1.067 starting gravity version of this yesterday using BIAB method. Way undershot my starting gravity though and ended up with 1.060. I was shooting for 75% efficiency but I think I was more at 68%. So my beer may end up more in line with the original recipe. Definitely something I need to work on for future batches.

 

[pegasus17459]

Thank you Braufessor for this instruction on brewing, you are a giant.

From Florida and recently vacationed in New England https://www.beeradvocate.com/commun...rinking-the-holy-grail-s.438157/#post-4923736

I knew i was going to love the beer, but the problem is that I wouldn't be able to buy the beer down here when I got back. I would have to make it. I have partial mashed brew before, years ago, so I am familiar with brewing basics. I started the all grain process two months before I left for New England, anticipating my need for this beer once I got back. Bought John Palmer, read every web site, post, blog, magazine that I could on the basics of all grain and specifically how it related to New England style IPA.

I decided to base my recipe off your recipe Braufessor. Here is what I did, some unexpected difficulties and what I will do next time (actually already in the fermentor).

Recipe

Grain
7.5 lbs 2-row
4 lbs golden promise
1.5 lbs wheat
0.5 lbs flaked oats
0.5 lbs flaked barley
0.25 lbs honey malt
0.25 lbs c-20

Hops
0.75 ounce warrior 60 min
F/O 1 ounce each cit/mos/gal
160 degree W/P 1 ounce each cit/mos/gal
Dry Hop day 5 two ounces citra and one ounce galaxy
Dry Hop day 12 two ounce citra and once ounce galaxy
All done in primary fermentor and transferred to keg on day 15.

Water
All distilled water, with braufessors recommendation of 1 tsp CaCl to 1/2 tsp gypsum per 5 gal. 6 gallons into primary

Yeast
Omega labs conan yeast. 1500 ml starter. OG 1.063 to FG 1.014 (6.4% alc) this was by design

The Difficulties
* Had to boil for 2&1/2 hours. I was not correcting hydrometer for temp and thought my preboil gravity was much lower than it was. Once I realized this I actually had to put more water into the boil to compensate. Amazing I still hit my OG.

*Could not cool wort past 80 degrees. Went into fermentation at 80 degrees into 60 degree fridge and followed Braufessor fermentation schedule thereafter.

*During mash I was using pH test strips. They are worthless. I kept getting a reading showing that pH was too low, I dissolved 1 teaspoon baking soda into 1 cup distilled and slowly added a teaspoon here and there. It was not changing my readings, so I decided the hell with it. Maybe 1/4 tsp baking soda was added to the mash.

The Results

I brought back with me from New England: Galaxy DH Fort Point, Julius, Green, Bright, Substance, Focal Banger, Heady Topper and a growler of Hill Farm Stead all galaxy. I am able to compare my beer day in and day out with these other brews from a quality stand point. My beer falls below these others, but not by much. The aforementioned beers have a greater focus, bigger body, and more pronounced hop taste. Thats its.

The Changes (and some myths too)

This what I think is needed to make a beer as good or better than those above. This is based a little on my limited brewing experience and a lot on reading over the past 3-4 months, hours a day. Put your "personal" palate to the side just for a moment.

*Sulfate needs to be 2 to 1 to chloride. I'm sorry but this has to be. JC from trillium has said so much. When nate gave a recipe to BYO he mentioned sulfate to taste, nothing about CaCl. I think the sulfate has to be high in order to reach the hoppiness. Isn't every homebrewer saying "wow my beer is good, but doesn't quite have the hoppy punch that (insert name) has".

*I would really caution against using multiple hops in the dry hop unless you really know what you are doing (or are following an exact recipe that is proven). If you are brewing the same beer for the 20th time trying to nail down a nuance than you can introduce a new hop at a certain stage. If you are trying to brew a new england ipa for the first (or fifth) time you are more than likely going to end up with something more muddled in flavor.

*Dextrine needs to be used to provide body. Unless you want something super super session-able, the beer is going to lack in body. I suppose a healthy dose of flaked oats or barley may also work ala Tired hands, but Trillium posts there recipes and it is amazing how f****** simple the ingredients are. I think we get carried away with adjuncts. Hell they use just plain two row, don't even opt for the more flavorful GP or MO.

*New England ipa's are hazy because of 1) the grain (wheat in the case of most, british malts in the case of the Alchemist) and 2) the dry hop oils (which will fall out). The yeast has NOTHING to do with it.

*Oxygenation is a little overstated. If you aren't sloshing around hot wort, have a good seal on your fermentor and take basic precautions when transferring you are FINE. For example, primary to keg. Fill keg with star san, force out using CO2, open lid and slowly, gently, carefully fill keg from primary (via spigot/auto-siphon). I guarantee that beer will taste as good as if it was fully transferred under C02.

*Save aromatic hops strictly for Dry Hopping. While I don't think adding citra/galaxy to F/O or whirlpool hurts anything, I question how much benefit you really get from it.

*Warm ground water. For my second brew (now in fermentor) I purchased an $18 fountain pump from harbor freight. I chilled wort to 100 degrees or so using ground water. Then filled cooler with 40 pounds of ice (maybe a little overkill) and recycled that water via the pump through an immersion chiller. Worked PERFECTLY. I know this has been talked about before, but I just wanted to put a further emphasis on it for those of us in the south.

*Water profile. For my second brew (now in fermentor) I bought spring water from Zephyrhills (roughly 12 gallons). They post there water profile analysis on line and fits perfectly with Brun water. I bought a small scale. I believe that this preciseness in water and water salts will be the biggest improvement in my new batch. Everybody ******* about buying water. For the price of 2 m***** f****** happy meals you can have water from a trusted source with a guaranteed analysis. Use your local spring water company.

In closing, my second batch is hopefully going to duplicate (with the goal of surpassing) Trillium's Galaxy Dry Hopped Fort Point Pale Ale. There is a recipe for it from years ago in BYO, but following that is only half the battle. The process is just as important. I read every JC post there is on BA. If you read them carefully he is telling you how to make beer that rivals anything. Also I watched this from Chop and Brew

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdfySDN2mF0[/ame]

Episode 22: John Kimmich from The Alchemist. While it is a lot of his story about how he started, he offers super big information on how to brew New England ipa's. I particularly took note of the mash pH not to exceed 5.3ish and hitting a water hardness of 350ppm.

I will post results of this batch in a couple weeks.

 

[pegasus17459]

A pic of my beer.

 

[IMXELITE]

A quick note on water to those using RO. I have found the best water to me was from filling jugs at whole foods or any place that has Primo water. It was $0.39 a gal for me and that was an amazing price in my opinion.

 

[crusader1612]

*Sulfate needs to be 2 to 1 to chloride. I'm sorry but this has to be. JC from trillium has said so much. When nate gave a recipe to BYO he mentioned sulfate to taste, nothing about CaCl. I think the sulfate has to be high in order to reach the hoppiness. Isn't every homebrewer saying "wow my beer is good, but doesn't quite have the hoppy punch that (insert name) has".

Not Strictly true, having spoken to local brewers wher I am, the belief is that Sulphate is important, however Chloride can be at a 1:1 ratio, to soften the bitterness, the only difference is, you sulphate needs to be high.

*Dextrine needs to be used to provide body. Unless you want something super super session-able, the beer is going to lack in body. I suppose a healthy dose of flaked oats or barley may also work ala Tired hands, but Trillium posts there recipes and it is amazing how f****** simple the ingredients are. I think we get carried away with adjuncts. Hell they use just plain two row, don't even opt for the more flavorful GP or MO.

Dextrine can obviously help with body. But when your brewing an IPa, in this style the higher wheat/oats ratio's will reduce the need to dextrine malts. the beers can be as simple as Pale and Oats. (a la Tired hands)

*Oxygenation is a little overstated. If you aren't sloshing around hot wort, have a good seal on your fermentor and take basic precautions when transferring you are FINE. For example, primary to keg. Fill keg with star san, force out using CO2, open lid and slowly, gently, carefully fill keg from primary (via spigot/auto-siphon). I guarantee that beer will taste as good as if it was fully transferred under C02.

this is terrible advice. oxygen is your enemy, especially when transferring. your oxygen risk is considerably higher post fermentation.
Hot-side aeration is not a thing IMO.

*Save aromatic hops strictly for Dry Hopping. While I don't think adding citra/galaxy to F/O or whirlpool hurts anything, I question how much benefit you really get from it.

Again, no. The benefit is tenfold. some bitterness depending on when its added. hop saturation. enough said. I've done normal pale ales with and without a flameout, and the difference was considerable. (I'm talking a bittering addition and maybe a 30 min addition + dryhop) Brulosophy suggests you can get good extraction from a 20minute addition, just with some additional bitterness. i think there would be a difference between 20min and flameout with 20 min whirlpool, but its not as stark as people think.
but a difference is a difference.

 

[Braufessor]

A quick note on water to those using RO. I have found the best water to me was from filling jugs at whole foods or any place that has Primo water. It was $0.39 a gal for me and that was an amazing price in my opinion.

For sure - this is the only way to go. I use Primo water refill at Walmart..... 6 x 3 gallon jugs. .39 cents a gallon. As cheap as it gets.

 

[Braufessor]

Thank you Braufessor for this instruction on brewing, you are a giant.

I don't know about that... but glad you got something out of the recipe and got a good baseline start with where you want to go. That is the goal with this recipe.... it is a really solid starting point, and can be adjusted to individual tastes.

During mash I was using pH test strips. They are worthless. I kept getting a reading showing that pH was too low, I dissolved 1 teaspoon baking soda into 1 cup distilled and slowly added a teaspoon here and there. It was not changing my readings, so I decided the hell with it. Maybe 1/4 tsp baking soda was added to the mash.

I have a good pH meter and take regular measurements. I guarantee you that you are not low on pH using all RO water and the generic additions I suggested. If anything, you would be a touch high. Don't add any baking soda at all. If I was going to guess.... 1ml of lactic acid in mash and sparge would be the pH adjustment I might recommend to get down into the 5.35-40 range. No baking soda needed for sure.

*Sulfate needs to be 2 to 1 to chloride. I'm sorry but this has to be. JC from trillium has said so much. When nate gave a recipe to BYO he mentioned sulfate to taste, nothing about CaCl. I think the sulfate has to be high in order to reach the hoppiness. Isn't every homebrewer saying "wow my beer is good, but doesn't quite have the hoppy punch that (insert name) has".

I don't disagree with this.... I have been playing around and recent batches I have been going with 150 sulfate and 75 chloride - I really like it. However, I want to play around with something like 130:130 a little and see what I think too. That said.... I think this is highly individualized as far as personal taste. It does not "have to be".... I know there are many breweries making these beers that are absolutely going higher chloride. I also know many recommend 1:1 in the 120-150 range for both as well. My recommendation would be to find a version you like and brew it 3 times.... 150 chloride: 75 Sulfate, 75 chloride: 150 Sulfate and 125-150 in an even ratio. Then see what you personally like.

*Dextrine needs to be used to provide body. Unless you want something super super session-able, the beer is going to lack in body. I suppose a healthy dose of flaked oats or barley may also work ala Tired hands, but Trillium posts there recipes and it is amazing how f****** simple the ingredients are. I think we get carried away with adjuncts. Hell they use just plain two row, don't even opt for the more flavorful GP or MO.

I don't know about this..... I don't use any dextrine malts and my beers have a pretty good body to them. That said, I NEVER brew big versions of this beer. I am 100% in the 1.050-1.060 range. I am currently using 15% or so flaked grains. This gives great body, full mouthfeel, etc.

*New England ipa's are hazy because of 1) the grain (wheat in the case of most, british malts in the case of the Alchemist) and 2) the dry hop oils (which will fall out). The yeast has NOTHING to do with it.

I very much, personally, agree with this. Some of these beers absolutely have a large "yeast" element to them. Mine don't. I (personally) am not a fan of "yeastiness" in these beers in regard to haze. That said.... I have had "yeasty" beers that were spectacular. I have also had yeasty beers that were drain-pours.... including one from Trillium..... yes, you read that right, I dumped the better part of a bomber of Trillium down the drain.

*Oxygenation is a little overstated. If you aren't sloshing around hot wort, have a good seal on your fermentor and take basic precautions when transferring you are FINE. For example, primary to keg. Fill keg with star san, force out using CO2, open lid and slowly, gently, carefully fill keg from primary (via spigot/auto-siphon). I guarantee that beer will taste as good as if it was fully transferred under C02.

I don't think oxygenation is overstated.... it will absolutely ruin your beer. However, I agree.... this is EXACTLY what I do. I fill my keg with star san. I push it out with CO2. I take the lid off and fill with a tube from the fermenter to the bottom of the keg. I set the lid on top while doing this ..... I figure (rightly or wrongly) that filling a keg that is full of CO2, from the bottom in 3 minutes..... with positive pressure out.... is going to reduce minimal O2. I put the lid in place and purge the small head space 5-8 times with CO2. I have never had any problem with oxygenation at all.

*Save aromatic hops strictly for Dry Hopping. While I don't think adding citra/galaxy to F/O or whirlpool hurts anything, I question how much benefit you really get from it.

My gut says I disagree with you. However, I would have to do 2 beers side by side to say that unequivocally. I have not done that.... perhaps at some point in the future.... especially as hops like Citra/Galaxy and Mosaic become more and more of a PITA to acquire. I currently have 10 pounds of each in the freezer.... so, not quite in desperation mode yet

Episode 22: John Kimmich from The Alchemist. While it is a lot of his story about how he started, he offers super big information on how to brew New England ipa's. I particularly took note of the mash pH not to exceed 5.3ish and hitting a water hardness of 350ppm.

I LOVE that video... awesome interview/talk.

Personally, I think Heady Topper is an outlier in regard to "NE IPA's." I know that it was the "first" one.... but it is not at all similar to a lot of the "juicy" NE IPA's. It is a much more bitter, assertive IPA. I have been fortunate to drink it often, but for me, it is not really an example of what I think this "style" consists of.

Lots of great thoughts..... let us know how some of your new batches turn out and what you like/don't like. That is the name of the game for sure. Brew a beer 30 or 50 times........ tweaking little things and see what stands out, what makes no difference at all.....

For me, I think the #1 thing that makes very little difference is yeast (within reason). I think there are at least 6-10 yeasts you can use in this beer and have it turn out great. What matters? I still think Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic in some combination are extraordinarily hard to beat..... I have tried a lot of combos..... but, those hops are almost cheating

 

[WesM63]

I finally brewed this today. I ended up doing a single hop with Ariana as I wanted to get them used up and had just the right amount. Hit the numbers spot on (OG 1.055) and pitched Gigayeast Vermont IPA.

My next batch will be the revered Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic.

 

[brewski09]

My gut says I disagree with you. However, I would have to do 2 beers side by side to say that unequivocally. I have not done that.... perhaps at some point in the future.... especially as hops like Citra/Galaxy and Mosaic become more and more of a PITA to acquire. I currently have 10 pounds of each in the freezer.... so, not quite in desperation mode yet

I do a pale ale where I've messed with hop timing a lot. Removing the late boil hops make almost no impact. Removing the whirlpool hops makes a large impact and are worth keeping in. Dryhop only beers end up with a different character and leaves the beer a bit one dimensional on the hops if you have no other aroma/flavor hops.

Just my 2 cents

 

[lilbova3]

In regard to some of pegasus' comments, Trillium uses the same base for their beers but will add some corn sugar to up the ABV and dry them out for their IPAs/DIPAs. They do use dextrose and a light crystal. I've heard their percentages are around:
74% 2 Row
20% White wheat
3% Carapils/Dextrine
3% C15
And they use Conan.

There's so many ways to get the mouthfeel I think. Brau does use honey malt which is technically a crystal malt (20* L range) and then flaked adjuncts. I love the honey malt, and never would have thought to use it until Brau provided this recipe, but I go a few steps further and use white wheat and flaked adjuncts close to 30%, Carapils at 5% and Honey at 2%. I also mash very high at 156. I believe having some residual sugars left around help with the juicy sweetness.

If it's producing results you like that's all that matters. [emoji482]

 

[armenianbrewer]

I think the priming sugar adds 0.003 SG

Maybe, maybe not. How long were the dryhops in cap tact with the finished beer?

So it was a 3 gallon batch..

The first 1 oz of dry hops went in at tail end of visual/active fermentation on day 4, then the second 1 oz of dry hops went in 3 days later, followed by the final 1 oz of dry hops for only 2 days before bottling at day 13.

So in summary, FF for all dry hop additions which were in contact with the batch for ~9, ~6, and ~2 days per 1 oz of FF.

I also had two whirlpool additions of 1 oz of FF for 15 min each at 180 and 140 degrees as well.

Total hop bill for my batch:

.5oz FWH sorachi ace
.5oz 5 min FF
.5oz 0 min FF
1 oz FF 180 degree 15 min whirlpool
1 oz FF 140 degree 15 min whirlpool
1 oz 9 day dry hop FF
1 oz 6 day dry hop FF
1 oz 2 day dry hop FF

.5 of sorachi ace, 6 oz of FF for 3 gallon batch

 

[jbedell2]

I don't disagree with this.... I have been playing around and recent batches I have been going with 150 sulfate and 75 chloride - I really like it. However, I want to play around with something like 130:130 a little and see what I think too. That said.... I think this is highly individualized as far as personal taste. It does not "have to be".... I know there are many breweries making these beers that are absolutely going higher chloride. I also know many recommend 1:1 in the 120-150 range for both as well. My recommendation would be to find a version you like and brew it 3 times.... 150 chloride: 75 Sulfate, 75 chloride: 150 Sulfate and 125-150 in an even ratio. Then see what you personally like.

Would it be possible to split a batch before it goes into primary and make these additions at that point? Then everything, including the age of the batch, would be exactly the same, allowing a truly direct comparison. Not sure how one would hit correct mash pH, calculate additions, etc.

Maybe start with 75:75 for mash and boil, separate into 1-gallon fermenters, and add additional modifiers there?

OR, what about just adding them when bottling/kegging, or even in a growler?

Does the impact on taste from sulfate and chloride occur during mash, boil, fermentation, or just end product?

I'd really like to taste these three variations side by side, but don't have the capacity or time to do three full batches in quick succession.

 

[thedon986]

I still think Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic in some combination are extraordinarily hard to beat..... I have tried a lot of combos..... but, those hops are almost cheating

Cannot agree with this more! Yesterday, I opened my first bottle of this beer of which I followed your recipe for the most part, but I added a touch of Crystal to give it more of an orange color and it turned out great. The best IPA I have brewed by far, not even close. I did go with 1oz of Warrior at the beginning and really like the amount of bitterness I ended up with. The CMG combo is amazing in both aroma and flavor.

 

[jbedell2]

My most recent batch has been kegged for a few days now, and it's not as amazing as the last one. The aroma is still pretty good, but the finish is a bit harsh and actually feels a little bit sharp in the back of my throat. A friend described it as "prickly."

I tried to make a lower gravity version by reducing each of the base grains by a pound. But my conversion was also low and brew house efficiency was only 53%. I kept my water additions the same as the last batch, including 1tsp of Lactic Acid. I also changed the dry hop schedule a little bit because of what I had on hand.

Here are the specs:
OG 1.057, FG 1.014, ABV 5.6
.75 Warrior @ 60
1/1/1 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy in both Whirlpools
Dryhop 1: 1 oz Citra, 2 oz Mosaic @ Day 4
Dryhop 2: 1 oz Mosaic, 2 oz Galaxy @ Day 11
Kegged Day 16 (for some reason there was still a tiny bit of airlock activity)

Water additions:
3g Gypsum
2g Epsom
1g Table Salt
8g CaCl
3g Baking Soda
1tsp Lactic
This was the same water profile as my last batch, which was great.

So, here are some possible explanations for the difference:
1) Too acidic? Maybe the lactic acid was too much, given the lower grain bill, which caused the low conversion and harsh flavor? In retrospect, I should have been less lazy and recalculated the water additions, but I wanted to stick with what worked so well in the last batch.
2) Too young? The airlock activity at Day 16 was weird. Maybe I needed a bigger starter?
3) Too much Galaxy in the second DH? I don't see why this would cause harshness, though.

Interested to hear anyone's thoughts about what could be causing the harsh flavor and throat sharpness.

Thanks!

Just wanted to follow up on this for others' reference. This beer improved dramatically after about a week in the keg. I think it was just young, as suggested by hezagenius and rappinduke. I also think Braufessor was right that my water additions are overly complicated, and I'll address that in my next batch. But, fortunately, this one is drinking beautifully now.

Thanks again for everyone's replies.

 

[pegasus17459]

I do a pale ale where I've messed with hop timing a lot. Removing the late boil hops make almost no impact. Removing the whirlpool hops makes a large impact and are worth keeping in. Dryhop only beers end up with a different character and leaves the beer a bit one dimensional on the hops if you have no other aroma/flavor hops.

Just my 2 cents

Yes, I definitely believe in whirlpool hops. I just question using the highly aromatic hops in them (such as citra/galaxy), but this I'm not sure of, was just a thought.

I am pretty sure that Trillium uses WLP007. Like just about positive. JC has stated on BA that he uses a VERY flocculant yeast, which Conan is not.

Oxygen is definitely the enemy. However, if you use the process that Braufessor uses I highly doubt any discernible oxygenation is going to take place.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Braufessor,

Do you mind posting your current grain bill.. I am going to make this probably tomorrow and see that you mentioned now using 15% flaked grains.. In the original recipe I am only seeing 8%. Thank you for the recipe and I look forward to brewing it.. I am on the west coast so get Pliny quite a bit.. Then I got my hands on some heady tipper and was blown away. When I thought things couldn't get any better I was able to try a can of Julius and fell in love.. Sucks that its almost impossible to get so now I'd like to make one that I can have on tap year round.

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor,

Do you mind posting your current grain bill.. I am going to make this probably tomorrow and see that you mentioned now using 15% flaked grains.. In the original recipe I am only seeing 8%. Thank you for the recipe and I look forward to brewing it.. I am on the west coast so get Pliny quite a bit.. Then I got my hands on some heady tipper and was blown away. When I thought things couldn't get any better I was able to try a can of Julius and fell in love.. Sucks that its almost impossible to get so now I'd like to make one that I can have on tap year round.

My current Grain Bill:

I aim for about 1.060 OG

40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
8% Flaked Oats
4% Flaked Barley
4% Weyerman Wheat
2% Flaked Wheat
2% Honey malt

 

[jpb2716]

My current Grain Bill:

I aim for about 1.060 OG

40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
8% Flaked Oats
4% Flaked Barley
4% Weyerman Wheat
2% Flaked Wheat
2% Honey malt

Hey Brau,

I see that you specifically called out German wheat? Have you tried this grain bill with American wheat? Just curious what the difference between them was.

Thanks!

 

[BrunDog]

Hi Guys,

Kegged and gassed this a week ago today. As I noted above, I didn't do a dry hop keg for the second dry hop round - rather I put them in the serving keg.

I sampled it two days later, and it was offensively bitter, dank, sharp, etc. Clearly it needed time to soften. Monday, it was better, but more time is needed.

Question: Should I remove the dry hops out of the serving keg? I have never keg dry hopped before, so not sure if they are better taken out. I am not thrilled about exposing the keg to oxygen, but if I work slowly/carefully I should be able to mitigate disturbing the CO2 layer and will re-flush again after. Thanks!

 

[Bowtiebrewery]

Yes remove the hops out of the serving keg... I only leave them in (When I do this) maximum 4 days. You could start getting some vegital flavors in there.


Oh and here is mine

 

[jpb2716]

Hi Guys,

Kegged and gassed this a week ago today. As I noted above, I didn't do a dry hop keg for the second dry hop round - rather I put them in the serving keg.

I sampled it two days later, and it was offensively bitter, dank, sharp, etc. Clearly it needed time to soften. Monday, it was better, but more time is needed.

Question: Should I remove the dry hops out of the serving keg? I have never keg dry hopped before, so not sure if they are better taken out. I am not thrilled about exposing the keg to oxygen, but if I work slowly/carefully I should be able to mitigate disturbing the CO2 layer and will re-flush again after. Thanks!

Any time that I've keg dry hopped, I've waited 2 weeks of dry hop time before tasting. My thinking is since I'm dry hopping at serving temperature, the aromatic qualities of the hops will take longer to come out than if I had dry hopped at room temperature. Also, I always use a good quality dry hop sock from Wilserbrewer. These tremendously cut down on hop particles escaping the bag. Lastly, I never remove my keg dry hops till the keg is kicked. I've had hops in the keg for up to 6 weeks and never have experienced the bitter, dank and sharp qualities that you are experiencing. I'd give it some more time before tasting again.

Also, I've never experienced any vegetal flavors from having hops in the keg that long. From what I understand, the vegetal flavors emerge if the hops are exposed too long at room temperature but would take months at serving temperature.

 

[Braufessor]

Hey Brau,

I see that you specifically called out German wheat? Have you tried this grain bill with American wheat? Just curious what the difference between them was.

Thanks!

I just put it in there because I always got a lot of questions about "what kind of wheat" when I just listed "wheat." I don't think it makes a huge difference.

To be honest, I think the "key" is getting 15-20% flaked and wheat in some capacity. I use a blend because I picked up a lot of flaked grains from a couple brew stores that closed.... You could probably simplify it and just use flaked oats or flaked oats + some wheat.

Maybe the variety gives it some complexity and other aspects.... but, I would not go so far as to declare that for sure.

 

[Braufessor]

Hi Guys,

Kegged and gassed this a week ago today. As I noted above, I didn't do a dry hop keg for the second dry hop round - rather I put them in the serving keg.

I sampled it two days later, and it was offensively bitter, dank, sharp, etc. Clearly it needed time to soften. Monday, it was better, but more time is needed.

Question: Should I remove the dry hops out of the serving keg? I have never keg dry hopped before, so not sure if they are better taken out. I am not thrilled about exposing the keg to oxygen, but if I work slowly/carefully I should be able to mitigate disturbing the CO2 layer and will re-flush again after. Thanks!

Yes - I would not leave the hops in the serving keg. Just pull it out and then purge head space.... it will be fine. What did you use for hops?

 

[lilbova3]

Hi Guys,

Kegged and gassed this a week ago today. As I noted above, I didn't do a dry hop keg for the second dry hop round - rather I put them in the serving keg.

I sampled it two days later, and it was offensively bitter, dank, sharp, etc. Clearly it needed time to soften. Monday, it was better, but more time is needed.

Question: Should I remove the dry hops out of the serving keg? I have never keg dry hopped before, so not sure if they are better taken out. I am not thrilled about exposing the keg to oxygen, but if I work slowly/carefully I should be able to mitigate disturbing the CO2 layer and will re-flush again after. Thanks!

I have left hops in the keg on my last two batches and why they did seem ever so slightly harsh at the beginning, they certainly mellow. I'm scared to open the keg up to pull them as well. I only throw in a few ounces, bagged and tied to the keg handles with floss, and let them sit until it's emptied. I'll only have them hanging halfway down so they are only in the beer until the keg is a little less than half full. I figure the prolonged contact time is ok because of the temp that they are sitting at.

Would it be best to remove them? Probably. But I'll let them stay. I think the aroma stays longer as well.

 

[BrunDog]

Yes - I would not leave the hops in the serving keg. Just pull it out and then purge head space.... it will be fine. What did you use for hops?

Per original recipe - Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy.

OK, mixed info here... I will remove the hops and let it all soften.

-BD