New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[rnm410]

Summit produces tangerine, onion and garlic.

I've never had anything but citrus and orange from Amarillo.

 

[brewski09]

I'd say brew some small batch beers with different methods of hopping and see where you get it. I do notice certain hops need to hit a threshold to throw "off flavors" like that though.

 

[jjbrewhouse]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459809420.820352.jpg
One week of bottle conditioning, tasting awesome

 

[Braufessor]

Latest batch..... Simcoe/Amarillo/centennial..... gotta say it is ok, but a bit disappointed. Centennial always seems to leave my beers a bit harsh and dry. It is fine, but not what I hoped. I think if I did it again, I would use an ounce of each in the kettle, in the hop stand an in the first dry hop. But, in the second dry hop I would go 1.5 each of simcoe and amarillo and skip the centennial. Maybe even skip it in both dry hops.

 

[arnobg]

Latest batch..... Simcoe/Amarillo/centennial..... gotta say it is ok, but a bit disappointed. Centennial always seems to leave my beers a bit harsh and dry. It is fine, but not what I hoped. I think if I did it again, I would use an ounce of each in the kettle, in the hop stand an in the first dry hop. But, in the second dry hop I would go 1.5 each of simcoe and amarillo and skip the centennial. Maybe even skip it in both dry hops.

Looks good. What grain bill did you use on this one?

 

[Braufessor]

Looks good. What grain bill did you use on this one?

oh.... actually, I did do something different for a change. I use all Pearl malt for the base portion (normally 50/50 rah 2 row and golden promise). Can't say I am blown away with anything being better about it from the malt perspective. Not enough to justify the cost of 100% pearl malt base. I have a Citra/Columbus in the fermenter right now that is 50/50 rahr and pearl for the base. #2 dry hop on that in a couple days.

Otherwise, this one was exactly the same as the original posted recipe.

 

[rnm410]

Interested to hear your Citra/Columbus experiment.

I see you 12 days primary, 3 day secondary, how long in the keg till the flavor peaks?

My hoppy IPAs peak around week 6, I don't drink them sooner than that.

 

[Braufessor]

Interested to hear your Citra/Columbus experiment.

I see you 12 days primary, 3 day secondary, how long in the keg till the flavor peaks?

My hoppy IPAs peak around week 6, I don't drink them sooner than that.

Mine never see 6 weeks...... I will have to brew a couple the same day and try to leave one sit longer than usual. 4-5 weeks seems to be at the peak for me.

 

[ruascott]

oh.... actually, I did do something different for a change. I use all Pearl malt for the base portion (normally 50/50 rah 2 row and golden promise). Can't say I am blown away with anything being better about it from the malt perspective. Not enough to justify the cost of 100% pearl malt base. I have a Citra/Columbus in the fermenter right now that is 50/50 rahr and pearl for the base. #2 dry hop on that in a couple days.

Otherwise, this one was exactly the same as the original posted recipe.

I did a citra/columbus/mosaic IPA recently, right around this ball park of gravity. Just one dry hop, not 2. I felt that the columbus totally overwhelmed the citra and mosaic. It wasn't a lot different than a 100% columbus beer I had done. It was good, but I felt like I wasted the more $$$ hops.

 

[Braufessor]

I could see that..... I went 2:1 Citra:Columbus. I will try it before I do the second dry hop and if it seems way to much columbus, I will likely ditch the columbus from the final dry hop if necessary.

 

[KirkMN]

So the past few days I've given this beer out to a lot of people, a mix of coworkers, my wife's coworkers, and some guys/gals I met for the first time on Sunday for an event my wife was having. Everyone loved it. From the beer geek to a casual beer drinker, they all were very impressed. One girl said, "I thought home brew was supposed to suck, this is fantastic!"

I brewed a pretty small batch of 2.5 gallons. All that is left is enough to present to my homebrew club and a local competition. Time to brew up 5 gallons.

 

[ruascott]

What are thoughts on using WY1968? Conan isn't available at my LHBS. I can pick up 1318, but I've already got some 2nd Gen 1968 on hand.

 

[Braufessor]

I brewed a pretty small batch of 2.5 gallons. All that is left is enough to present to my homebrew club and a local competition. Time to brew up 5 gallons.

Ha.... for sure. I can't keep 5 gallons around - no way 2.5 is going to last long. I bet I brew Three 5 gallon batches of this a month and still can't keep it on tap. My friends demolished a keg of it this last weekend - gotta get it back on the brew schedule this weekend

 

[KirkMN]

What are thoughts on using WY1968? Conan isn't available at my LHBS. I can pick up 1318, but I've already got some 2nd Gen 1968 on hand.

I used this with this recipe but using all Citra. It's cold crashing now ready to transfer and carbonate.

 

[Braufessor]

What are thoughts on using WY1968? Conan isn't available at my LHBS. I can pick up 1318, but I've already got some 2nd Gen 1968 on hand.

I think it will make a good beer, although, maybe a different beer to some extent. The yeast should flock out more. I would not be surprised if you ended up with a bit higher FG. But, I have brewed session IPA's with 1968 before and like them. I have not brewed this exact recipe with 1968, but, I would not hesitate to give it a try.

 

[ruascott]

I think it will make a good beer, although, maybe a different beer to some extent. The yeast should flock out more. I would not be surprised if you ended up with a bit higher FG. But, I have brewed session IPA's with 1968 before and like them. I have not brewed this exact recipe with 1968, but, I would not hesitate to give it a try.

I was planning to up the OG just a little bit anyway. I've got a perfect amount of Mosaic and Citra on hand, and just enough 1968 left for a batch. I've only got Magnum on hand for bittering, no Warrior.

I actually just made a GP/Mosaic SMASH with 1968 last month, right a 1.060, and it was delicious, one of the best beers I've ever made. So this will be a great play off of that....but I like the looks of this even more.

I've never messed with the water, have just used my city tap. But will try it with RO from grocery with the additions you mentioned. I do BIAB, but can't see how that would matter.

 

[milldoggy]

What are thoughts on using WY1968? Conan isn't available at my LHBS. I can pick up 1318, but I've already got some 2nd Gen 1968 on hand.

I find 1968 a little to clean, but still makes a good beer. I am probably in the minority, but I like what s04 does for these beers. Maybe it is just my palatte and I like a lot of esters.

 

[KirkMN]

Braufessor, what's your method of forced carbonation of these? I'm typically doing 25 psi for two days then backing it off to 10 psi or so for another couple, but am guessing if this is about right the whole time. I'll be bottling my 4.8% Nelson/1318 and the 5.8% Citra/ESB beers on Thursday in time for my homebrew club meeting and they're both carbing up now.
Our club challenge this month is session beers under 5%, so we'll see if this can be scaled down a bit and still work.

Any tips for quick forced carbonation?

 

[jjbrewhouse]

I'm am fairly new to all grain. About 10 batches under my belt. My question is if I bump up the grain bill to make it a DIPA. Do I have to bump up the hops as well?

 

[KirkMN]

I'm am fairly new to all grain. About 10 batches under my belt. My question is if I bump up the grain bill to make it a DIPA. Do I have to bump up the hops as well?

I put together a recipe based on this and used 7% corn sugar and upped the bittering hops a bit. The other grains were bumped up accordingly but the percentages remained the same of the total grain bill. It hasn't been brewed yet but was planning on it this weekend if all goes well. My IBU of the bittering went from 29 to 48 IBU, just from the bittering hops. We'll see how it turns out.

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor, what's your method of forced carbonation of these? I'm typically doing 25 psi for two days then backing it off to 10 psi or so for another couple, but am guessing if this is about right the whole time. I'll be bottling my 4.8% Nelson/1318 and the 5.8% Citra/ESB beers on Thursday in time for my homebrew club meeting and they're both carbing up now.
Our club challenge this month is session beers under 5%, so we'll see if this can be scaled down a bit and still work.

Any tips for quick forced carbonation?

I tend to go 20-25psi for 1.5-2 days. Then back off to 10-12psi. I sample a little each day to make sure it does not get over carbed.

I have tried higher pressures, longer time at higher pressures, shaking, etc to speed things up.... but, to be honest, I have had hit and miss success with that and once the beer is over carbed, it is a PITA to get it back to where you want it. Sometimes it seems the beer never quite comes back to the way it should be. I tend to re on the side of caution.

 

[Braufessor]

I'm am fairly new to all grain. About 10 batches under my belt. My question is if I bump up the grain bill to make it a DIPA. Do I have to bump up the hops as well?

Have not done it myself..... but, I would bump the bittering up some for sure. I would think the late and dry hop additions would still be pretty good. Might consider something else during the boil maybe?? 15-30 minutes?

 

[sheikyerbouti]

Interested to hear your Citra/Columbus experiment.

I see you 12 days primary, 3 day secondary, how long in the keg till the flavor peaks?

My hoppy IPAs peak around week 6, I don't drink them sooner than that.

I know this wasn't directed towards me, but I did my first dry hop 3 days in and kegged on day 9. I've found the dry hop flavor, to me, drops hard after 1 week. 4 weeks...keg gone

 

[emr25]

Braufessor, could you go into a little more detail on your dry hopping / transferring / cold crashing process? Maybe step by step. I'd like to improve upon minimizing oxidation and want to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

I plan to transfer from carboy to dry hopping keg under minimal CO2 pressure as described here.

http://www.metabrewing.com/2014/08/avoiding-oxygen-when-kegging-co2.html?m=1

Using the mesh screens technique for dry hopping in a keg and transferring to a serving keg as described here.

http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html?m=1

Questions I have.

1) Do you cold crash before transferring from primary carboy to purged dry hopping keg? If not, do you just rack off what trub is already compacted knowing more will eventually settle out when the beer is cooled?

If so, do you let it warm back up to better interact with the dry hops? Do you cold crash the dry hop keg before transferring to the serving keg?

2) When and how do you add the dry hops to the dry hopping keg?

Thanks!

 

[arnobg]

Braufessor, could you go into a little more detail on your dry hopping / transferring / cold crashing process? Maybe step by step. I'd like to improve upon minimizing oxidation and want to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

I plan to transfer from carboy to dry hopping keg under minimal CO2 pressure as described here.

http://www.metabrewing.com/2014/08/avoiding-oxygen-when-kegging-co2.html?m=1

Using the mesh screens technique for dry hopping in a keg and transferring to a serving keg as described here.

http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html?m=1

Questions I have.

1) Do you cold crash before transferring from primary carboy to purged dry hopping keg? If not, do you just rack off what trub is already compacted knowing more will eventually settle out when the beer is cooled?

If so, do you let it warm back up to better interact with the dry hops? Do you cold crash the dry hop keg before transferring to the serving keg?

2) When and how do you add the dry hops to the dry hopping keg?

Thanks!

I asked on the last page or two about the dry hops and he said he throws them right in the keg since those filters are in the keg for the dip tube.

 

[emr25]

I asked on the last page or two about the dry hops and he said he throws them right in the keg since those filters are in the keg for the dip tube.

After the beer has been transferred into the keg? Meaning purge with StarSan / CO2, then transfer under CO2 pressure from carboy into keg, then open the keg lid to add the hops, then purge the headspace a few times again with CO2?

I'm just wondering the fine details, as it seems that in homebrewing there is no real way to completely eliminate O2 interaction but there are most likely certain procedures that work better than others.

 

[Braufessor]

Questions I have.

1) Do you cold crash before transferring from primary carboy to purged dry hopping keg? If not, do you just rack off what trub is already compacted knowing more will eventually settle out when the beer is cooled?

If so, do you let it warm back up to better interact with the dry hops? Do you cold crash the dry hop keg before transferring to the serving keg?

2) When and how do you add the dry hops to the dry hopping keg?

Thanks!

I almost never cold crash.

*Around day 10 I set fermenter on counter.
*Around day 12 or so.... I get dry hop keg ready. Like in link. Stainless mesh sleeve on dip tube (dip tube with 1 inch cut off) and bigger mesh tube around that.
*Fill keg with star san to the top. Put on lid.
*Push out star san with CO2.
*I use fermenters with spigots (SS Brew bucket or Bottling buckets).
*Section of tube in tub of star san for draining from fermenter to dry hop keg.
* Get #2 dry hop ready.
*Let pressure off keg, open lid, throw in hops (loose).
* Drain beer from fermenter to Keg. Set lid over opening, but not sealed back up to allow tubing to bottom of keg.
***This is not 100% oxygen free. However, with the keg 100% purged to start, beer flowing in - which pushes CO2 out during the <5 minute fill - it is likely very close to minimizing O2 exposure.
*This beer is transferring pretty clean even without cold crashing. Setting it up on counter a couple days before transfer helps to not stir anything up.
*When keg is filled, dunk lid in star san quick again, put in place, seal up.
*Purge keg with CO2, letting pressure through relief valve just to ensure no O2 in the small head space.
*Let it sit for 2 days. Set up on counter. Get serving keg ready - fill with star san.
*Push star san out with CO2.
*Do not open serving keg.
* Hook up liquid post to liquid post from dry hop keg to serving keg.
*Pull pressure relief on serving keg.
*Use Co2 to pus from dry hop keg to serving keg.
*The final beer is very clean. Most everything has settle out, and what has not is strained out by the double filter.
*Purge head space at the end of closed transfer.
*In fridge, hook up to CO2.

If I had problems with lots of trub, yeast, sediment, yeast... I would cold crash if needed. However - I am leaving trub behind in boil kettle (leaving almost a gallon in dead space in my kettle.) So, wort into fermenter is very clear and clean. I leave .5-.75 gallons of gunk behind in fermenter..... clean beer going into dry hop keg. And, whatever is there gets left behind with the filters keeping it out.

 

[emr25]

I almost never cold crash.

If I had problems with lots of trub, yeast, sediment, yeast... I would cold crash if needed. However - I am leaving trub behind in boil kettle (leaving almost a gallon in dead space in my kettle.) So, wort into fermenter is very clear and clean. I leave .5-.75 gallons of gunk behind in fermenter..... clean beer going into dry hop keg. And, whatever is there gets left behind with the filters keeping it out.

Awesome post, this is exactly what I was interested in knowing!

I'm only 3 batches into homebrewing, the NE IPA recipe here will be batch 4. So far we have been transferring everything from brew kettle to carboy. Mainly because we have an 8-gallon brew kettle, and starting the boil with about 7.5 gallons (about an inch from the top) means we only get about 5.5 to 6 gallons into the carboy after boil off, even with transferring everything.

After cold crashing (compacting as much as possible), this has netted us around 4.25 gallons (roughly) into the keg for each batch. My only concern with not cold crashing before transferring from primary would be reducing that down to under 4 gallons after trub loss and hop absorption in the dry hop keg. But my concern with cold crashing before the second dry hop is losing hop aroma and not letting the yeast finish up, so we'll have some decisions to make. Any reason not to cold crash, transfer to dry hop keg, then raise back to ~70* until the beer is transferred to the serving keg?

Thanks again, we will be doing some form of this for the next batch, assuming we get a 2nd keg before then!

 

[Bbeck8386]

I have a pound of citra, and a pound of mosaic on the way. Would Amarillo work in place of the galaxy if my lhbs doesn't have it in stock?

 

[Braufessor]

Awesome post, this is exactly what I was interested in knowing!

I'm only 3 batches into homebrewing, the NE IPA recipe here will be batch 4. So far we have been transferring everything from brew kettle to carboy. Mainly because we have an 8-gallon brew kettle, and starting the boil with about 7.5 gallons (about an inch from the top) means we only get about 5.5 to 6 gallons into the carboy after boil off, even with transferring everything.

After cold crashing (compacting as much as possible), this has netted us around 4.25 gallons (roughly) into the keg for each batch. My only concern with not cold crashing before transferring from primary would be reducing that down to under 4 gallons after trub loss and hop absorption in the dry hop keg. But my concern with cold crashing before the second dry hop is losing hop aroma and not letting the yeast finish up, so we'll have some decisions to make. Any reason not to cold crash, transfer to dry hop keg, then raise back to ~70* until the beer is transferred to the serving keg?

Thanks again, we will be doing some form of this for the next batch, assuming we get a 2nd keg before then!

I don't think the cold crashing will hurt the beer in the way of aroma or flavor. I don't do it because I don't want to mess with it, and I have a system that gets me 5 gallons of clean beer into the dry hop keg. I am still losing a quart or two from dry hop keg to serving keg.